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Did something puncture it or did one of the welds come apart? I am guessing the latter.
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Feb 16, 2017 03:32
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I think so. The fins all look great, and the coolant seems to be coming out of that joint...but the actual weld itself is tucked out of view, so I can't see if it's actually cracked.
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Feb 16, 2017 04:25
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Ah that sucks, is there a recommended radiator for XJ with a 4 liter? My cooling system is due for a big overhaul in the future. Just looking for something inexpensive and same as stock quality.
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Feb 16, 2017 21:20
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Dunno about same as stock quality, but I've literally put garbage parts-store/rockauto/amazon tier aluminum ones with crimped on plastic end tanks in every jeep I've ever bought (I always seem to get them mere months before the OE radiator finally loses all its fins and starts overheating) and I've never had an issue with one, except that time I accidentally drove into a tree branch offroad and poked a gigantic hole in the radiator, then bent it and crammed it into the fan clutch for good measure. A well maintained stock cooling system will handle basically anything except maybe super high throttle low speed sand dune/mudhole shenanigans. The only times I've overheated with those bottom-dollar radiators is when my e-fan was busted AND my mechanical fan clutch had failed, etc etc etc.
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Feb 16, 2017 22:39
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I got my inspection camera/endoscope today. Here's what I found in the area under the rear seat where the rattle is coming from:  Looks like a bunch of rocks and a bolt in there. I'd sure like to know how all that got there. (The pic is sideways, sorry about that)
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Feb 18, 2017 02:07
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Is there a good step by step guide to swapping axles out? I found a donor Grand Cherokee with a d44a that I can have for free as long as I put my bad rear back on it. (can't leave a vehicle on blocks/stands here for HOA reasons)
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Feb 18, 2017 03:22
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Juan Carlos III posted:Is there a good step by step guide to swapping axles out? I found a donor Grand Cherokee with a d44a that I can have for free as long as I put my bad rear back on it. (can't leave a vehicle on blocks/stands here for HOA reasons) I'm not sure about the intricacies of D44a/whatever Jeep you have in regards to: shock mounts, spring mounts, brake/parking brake lines, ABS stuff (?) but the general advice is to use new Ubolts, and re-torque them after a hundred miles or so because they will stretch/shape. I forgot this step and was horrified to see how loose they were when I finally went to track down the mysterious clunking noise after my axle swap. After re-torquing them I threw some nylocks on top to make sure they didn't back off. When I swapped a 2001 XJ 8.25 into a 1988 XJ (Replacing a D35) I had to re-use the longer parking brake cables from the D35, but other than that it was very straightforward.
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Feb 18, 2017 07:48
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Speaking of possibly crapped out Dana 44a's, this is pretty much the only kit I've been able to find.. http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetra...2+Axle+and+Gear Don't guess anyone has had any experience with it? In related questioning, what would be considered too much to pay for somebody to slap this poo poo into my Jeep's rear end while I have some time off?
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Feb 18, 2017 07:58
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Juan Carlos III posted:Is there a good step by step guide to swapping axles out? I found a donor Grand Cherokee with a d44a that I can have for free as long as I put my bad rear back on it. (can't leave a vehicle on blocks/stands here for HOA reasons) The fact that you say D44a makes me think it's a WJ or ZJ donor, so no U-bolts to deal with. But I don't think either of them are a straight swap under a TJ, or vice versa unless they literally just want the WJ plopped on top of an axle without worrying about whether it fits. If it's a WJ donor, it will have 5x5 lug pattern axles and brakes to boot.
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Feb 18, 2017 19:02
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IOwnCalculus posted:The fact that you say D44a makes me think it's a WJ or ZJ donor, so no U-bolts to deal with. But I don't think either of them are a straight swap under a TJ, or vice versa unless they literally just want the WJ plopped on top of an axle without worrying about whether it fits. I'll be honest, I'm assuming it's a 44a because that's what I've read is under the Grand Cherokees that have 44s.
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Feb 18, 2017 19:13
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Howdy thread, can anyone tell me what this part is? It has decided to start making a loud clicking noise.
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Feb 18, 2017 19:18
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Aeryk posted:Howdy thread, can anyone tell me what this part is? It has decided to start making a loud clicking noise. EVAP solenoid. SwampDonkey fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Feb 19, 2017 |
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Feb 18, 2017 19:38
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Also i seem to have a leak where the oil filter adapter meets the housing, am i going to hate my life trying to put a new o ring on it
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Feb 18, 2017 19:39
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Someone tried to steal my roof rack last night, found out the hard way on my way to work.  They got three mounts off and must have gotten scared off before finishing the job. Was going around a corner, heard a thunk and then it was chillin outside my window. This is the third or fourth time someone has hosed with the car. The last time being when I came home from vacation and someone had scissor jacked it up by the pumpkin and drilled a hole in my tank. Getting sick of this poo poo.
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Feb 18, 2017 19:41
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Aeryk posted:Also i seem to have a leak where the oil filter adapter meets the housing, am i going to hate my life trying to put a new o ring on it It's kinda tough to reach but not that bad. I just did mine and it took about 20 mins start to finish. Depending on year it will either be a T60(?) bolt which I would imagine is a lot more annoying, on my 91 Comanche it was a standard hex head bolt maybe like 5/8 I forget. Ratcheting wrench made it pretty simple so if it's torx and you can't use that then yes it will probably kinda suck. These are the o rings I used but they are year dependant so ymmv http://www.morris4x4center.com/oil-filter-adapter-seal-kit-33002970k.html Quite A Tool posted:This is the third or fourth time someone has hosed with the car. The last time being when I came home from vacation and someone had scissor jacked it up by the pumpkin and drilled a hole in my tank  what the actual gently caress
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Feb 18, 2017 19:54
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So my Wireless Control Module just hosed me HARD. In the desert and all of a sudden my car will start for 3 seconds then voluntarily shut down. I disconnect the battery to see if it's some computer issue and it gets worse and doesn't even start any more. I was lucky that this happened in an area I was close to the road, got tow to Vegas and it's gonna cost me almost a grand + 3 days for them to fix because of sunday+holiday+ordering WCM. I can't sit here for 3 days so I'm spending $$$ to tow to LA and THEN to get it fixed. My question is can i just not fix this and bypass this absolute bullshit now and forever somehow? I don't want this wireless control module in my poo poo because whatever happened this weekend could've ended 1000x worse on other weekends and frankly I don't trust it. I am guessing the state of the Jeep is that it's too computerized and its impossible to bypass that module without disabling every other electronics module too, but I thought I'd just ask.
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Feb 18, 2017 19:56
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:It's kinda tough to reach but not that bad. I just did mine and it took about 20 mins start to finish. Depending on year it will either be a T60(?) bolt which I would imagine is a lot more annoying, on my 91 Comanche it was a standard hex head bolt maybe like 5/8 I forget. Ratcheting wrench made it pretty simple so if it's torx and you can't use that then yes it will probably kinda suck. These are the o rings I used but they are year dependant so ymmv http://www.morris4x4center.com/oil-filter-adapter-seal-kit-33002970k.html Its a 99 so it probably has the torx
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Feb 18, 2017 20:10
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Aeryk posted:Its a 99 so it probably has the torx Yeah I'd say almost definitely. Saw this on another forum and looks like a good combo to make it suck a little less 
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Feb 18, 2017 20:21
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Harbor Freight has those socket caps for ridiculously cheap, too.
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Feb 18, 2017 20:34
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:
Yeah I had parked it with an 1/8th of a tank when I left. The gas cap was missing and the flap was open so I assume they tried to siphon first and didn't get poo poo. The worst part is they left it jacked up but took the handle to lower it. Took me like 20 minutes using a fire poker to lower it bit by bit. I was furious.
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Feb 18, 2017 20:47
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Next time you can drive off the jack, it's kinda fun 😁
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Feb 18, 2017 20:54
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tuna posted:So my Wireless Control Module just hosed me HARD. In the desert and all of a sudden my car will start for 3 seconds then voluntarily shut down. I disconnect the battery to see if it's some computer issue and it gets worse and doesn't even start any more. I was lucky that this happened in an area I was close to the road, got tow to Vegas and it's gonna cost me almost a grand + 3 days for them to fix because of sunday+holiday+ordering WCM. I can't sit here for 3 days so I'm spending $$$ to tow to LA and THEN to get it fixed. Found this on another forum "had the same prob on my 2008 quick fix buy a neg battery cable thats open looped on both ends connect one end to the neg battery post and the other to the bracket holding the alternater. very quick and will sole your problem." I had no idea what the WCM was but on the same forum a tech at a Jeep dealership posted this During cranking/starting, the ignition switch voltage should drop to about 0.4 to 0.5volts and the switch status should show start/crank. If the ignition switch status shows FF, that is an undermined switch status. The ignition switch voltage is supplied by a voltage regulator (5volts) with-in the WCM (WIRELESS CONTROL MODULE). This regulator not only feeds the ignition switch with voltage, but if the vehicle has remote start, it all so powers the WCM antenna. So, items that affect the ignition switch voltage readings would include the power or ground circuits to the WCM, ignition switch and the WCM antenna. The WCM antenna can short and take down the ignition switch voltage. A shorted antenna can cause issues with the WCM functioning properly, i.e. starting and or key programming. Check antenna wire for damage or try and unplug the WCM antenna and recheck the ignition switch voltage.
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Feb 18, 2017 21:36
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Jeep: 76 years of Inadequate Grounds
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Feb 18, 2017 21:48
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mattfl posted:Found this on another forum Thanks. Sounds like it's probably an easy electronics hack if you're daring and have the tools to probe around but nothing I can really do about it right now. This is the stupidest malfunction. Nothing is even wrong with the Jeep, it just doesn't believe the key is right so instead it is loving me over really bad instead.
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Feb 18, 2017 22:25
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:Yeah I'd say almost definitely. Saw this on another forum and looks like a good combo to make it suck a little less Looks a lot nicer than how I did it. 
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Feb 18, 2017 22:44
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I have a custom tool for this job, It was made by a guy over on NAXJA. Its just a peice of flat steel with a t60 bit welded on it. its very slim and worked very well. I loan it out all the time to local XJ guys wanting to do this fix. I don't have a pic of it off hand. The job is easier on manual XJ's as they don't have the trans cooling lines to deal with.
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Feb 18, 2017 22:51
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Juan Carlos III posted:I'll be honest, I'm assuming it's a 44a because that's what I've read is under the Grand Cherokees that have 44s. Right, my point is that swapping it into your TJ will require fabrication, as would swapping your busted axle into the Grand. I like the 44a but if I had to fabricate to fit an axle, I'd probably just do an 8.8.
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Feb 18, 2017 23:14
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A 44a is not worth swapping into anything that it won't bolt directly into. Buy a ford 8.8, 29sp chrysler 8.25, or real 44 instead, seriously.Aeryk posted:Howdy thread, can anyone tell me what this part is? It has decided to start making a loud clicking noise. Evap purge solenoid, they make a racket normally when purging the evap canister.
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Feb 19, 2017 05:02
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On WJs they're loud enough and rhythmic enough that there's a TSB to ensure it doesn't get mistaken for rod knock. Sure as hell sounds like it.
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Feb 19, 2017 06:05
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The main thrust of my reasoning for looking for cheaper alternative bolt-ins is because I have only ever welded one thing in my entire life. Fabricating/welding the mounts for an 8.8 is far beyond my skillset and readily available tools.
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Feb 19, 2017 12:12
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 Heads up for anyone in the S Jersey area, dudes got a J truck "project" asking $1k obo. Same price on the XJ. Was trying to cut his name off image but full name of group is south nj truck/jeep parts etc etc etc
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Feb 19, 2017 16:25
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Juan Carlos III posted:The main thrust of my reasoning for looking for cheaper alternative bolt-ins is because I have only ever welded one thing in my entire life. Fabricating/welding the mounts for an 8.8 is far beyond my skillset and readily available tools. You'd be doing the same work to fit a 44a and it's not as good.
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Feb 19, 2017 16:43
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:
drat those are nice deals.
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Feb 19, 2017 18:13
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rally posted:For your rear wiper and defrost the culprit is the wiring harness going from the body into the hatch. If it's like mine you're lucky anything back there works. The wires there bend until they break over time. A good one seems to be unobtanium although I have not tried in a few years. OK so: the rear defrost works now. It was a corroded fuse. Possibly the easiest fix i've had yet. The only thing left borked on the lift gate is the wiper motor. The defrost, lift gate lock motor, CHMSL, and the license plate bulb all work perfectly.
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Feb 20, 2017 22:07
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Woohoo I finally fixed my XJ's driver side speaker wiring, and reflowed the power window lock switch to make all the window switches work again.  Should have done these fixes a long time ago, but it was kind of a pain in the butt. Taking the door panel off is a lot more fiddly than it should be. Pulling the window switches off the assembly is _really_ annoying too and I broke the mount for one of them. Luckily was able to super glue it back on and it seems fine. Feels great to finally have that stuff working again. Now to see what it breaks new in retaliation...These are good videos to do both fixes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=diW-NPz0-60 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBNIC_2H_JQ
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Feb 21, 2017 05:15
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kastein posted:A 44a is not worth swapping into anything that it won't bolt directly into. Buy a ford 8.8, 29sp chrysler 8.25, or real 44 instead, seriously. Turns out the mount was bent so it was contacting the wall and amplified the knocking, bent it back and it's much softer now
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Feb 21, 2017 17:15
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mod sassinator posted:Woohoo I finally fixed my XJ's driver side speaker wiring, and reflowed the power window lock switch to make all the window switches work again. haha yes- I figured out the first fix on my own a while back. Apparently the wire LOVES to break right at the ghetto splice jeep put directly at the jamb hinge position. The best part about ghettosplice is it's there for wiring the small tweeter speaker even if your car does have that audio trim level so you get to benefit from lovely wiring even if you don't have a cool tweeters. The window locks? I'm just going to say gently caress it and jump the window lock wire because I don't have any small children to roll down the windows and jump out while doing 80mph on the highway.
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Feb 22, 2017 01:50
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Yeah interestingly all of my door wires looked good and even the speaker wire appeared fine, but then I tugged it a bit and it snapped right off at the heat shrink by the tweeter junction. I think what happens is the heat shrink hardens up over time and puts too much strain on the wire at the edge. Oh that's a great idea to just bypass it entirely. Yeah reflowing the solder joints isn't bad if you've done a little bit of soldering before, but getting all the buttons off is a pain in the butt.
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Feb 22, 2017 06:39
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This window lock chat has me wondering if I can selectively disable it on the front passenger door. The WJ window lock disables all doors, not just the rear ones.
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Feb 22, 2017 07:19
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| # ? Jun 16, 2024 05:08 |
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 I snagged one of these cubby hole bags for my XJ. I kinda need a place to keep roadside emergency tools/ krikit gauges/ etc. IOwnCalculus posted:This window lock chat has me wondering if I can selectively disable it on the front passenger door. The WJ window lock disables all doors, not just the rear ones. The XJ window lock disables all except the driver's door. It makes for great awkward moments as you try to guess how much your passengers want their window to be open.
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Feb 22, 2017 16:39
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