|
Am I missing something when it comes to ordering custom cables that are shorter and more ITX friendly? CableMod is quoting me cable sets that cost more than my PSU alone.
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2017 09:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 22:02 |
|
|
buglord posted:Am I missing something when it comes to ordering custom cables that are shorter and more ITX friendly? CableMod is quoting me cable sets that cost more than my PSU alone. Thats the price you pay for custom. If you want custom, make your own.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2017 10:28
|
|
|
Speaking of which, I wouldn't have though making your own would be too hard? Back in the day I changed all my psu connections for blue ones from a kit and it was pretty easy to do. I guess you'd measure the size you need (measure thrice) then either trim and crimp new connections on or somehow reuse the old one, perhaps with butt joints? Not that I plan to ever to that. But I am a bit jealous of these itx builds, especially the one just posted. I went matx and find it a bit cumbersome to lug around at times.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2017 15:47
|
|
|
SlayVus posted:Thats the price you pay for custom. If you want custom, make your own. Yeah it seems so. I didnt expect to pay a premium for literally just shortened cables. But also it seems like different PSU's support different cables, which means theres like 20 different ATX cables out there specifically for certain PSUs. Id imagine that has something to do with the price. I thought these were all universal.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2017 21:18
|
|
|
buglord posted:Yeah it seems so. I didnt expect to pay a premium for literally just shortened cables. But also it seems like different PSU's support different cables, which means theres like 20 different ATX cables out there specifically for certain PSUs. Id imagine that has something to do with the price. I thought these were all universal. ATX PSUs can have lots of different pinouts The motherboard pins have to be standard, but on the receiving end of the PSU it can be wired all different ways. You can simply buy an ATX pin removal tool, cables, pins, and a crimper. One wire at a time, remove and replace with a shorter cable that you crimp the pins to yourself. https://www.amazon.com/Konsait-Modding-Removal-Computer-Connector/dp/B0171RDCWW/ Pretty much every brand of these pin removal tools gets panned for breaking, so you gotta be real dainty with them. Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Feb 27, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2017 21:43
|
|
|
Wouldn't it just be easier to open the PSU, unsolder wires, shorten them, then resolder? Or are we talking about the funky modular jobbies?
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2017 22:01
|
|
|
If anyone is using a non-modular PSU with an ITX build I feel very very sorry for them.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2017 23:22
|
|
|
I will certainly find a way to electrocute myself/destroy my components, so I guess ill just deal with generous cable lengths instead 
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2017 23:23
|
|
|
Building in a node 202 with a core I7-7700. Will the stock cooler be good enough? Going to be using it for video editing, and gaming.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2017 23:24
|
|
|
system protocol posted:Building in a node 202 with a core I7-7700. Will the stock cooler be good enough? Going to be using it for video editing, and gaming.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2017 23:34
|
|
|
Col.Kiwi posted:I wouldn't. The stock cooler has a reputation for being extremely noisy and sometimes even thermal throttling on the high end i7s. Probably worthwhile to buy something low profile with heatpipes According to this video, this Zalman is a really good cooler for its price/size. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nuUGfql2BmM https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...c9f5d38f796cdff
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2017 00:05
|
|
|
Cinara posted:If anyone is using a non-modular PSU with an ITX build I feel very very sorry for them. Everything is modular if you have wirecutters and or a soldering iron.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2017 00:20
|
|
|
mekilljoydammit posted:Everything is modular if you have wirecutters and or a soldering iron. It's not like SFX power supplies have an obnoxious amount of cables. The manufacturers seem to realize what the limits an SFX build are and have unnecessary cables. The most extra you'll ever have is a few SATA powers and maybe a string of molexes.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2017 02:40
|
|
|
VulgarandStupid posted:It's not like SFX power supplies have an obnoxious amount of cables. The manufacturers seem to realize what the limits an SFX build are and have unnecessary cables. The most extra you'll ever have is a few SATA powers and maybe a string of molexes. I just bought the Node 202 that came with the 450w power supply. There really isn't much to work with and I don't expect to have too much trouble shoehorning them somewhere.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2017 03:22
|
|
|
VulgarandStupid posted:According to this video, this Zalman is a really good cooler for its price/size. Yeah it's going to be a toss up between that, and the Noctua LH-L9i
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2017 03:24
|
|
|
buglord posted:Am I missing something when it comes to ordering custom cables that are shorter and more ITX friendly? CableMod is quoting me cable sets that cost more than my PSU alone. Some have said https://beyondcustoms.net is decently priced for custom sets, especially with Rand -> USD. Located in South Africa.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2017 08:18
|
|
|
Cinara posted:If anyone is using a non-modular PSU with an ITX build I feel very very sorry for them. Oh I don't know, a non modular PSU with modded cables + extra cables removed should take up even less space.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2017 09:28
|
|
|
Yeah, because it's now the same as modular 
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2017 13:49
|
|
|
On modular supplies, the plugs generally take up some space. We're not talking about adding sockets + cable plugs to them.
GRINDCORE MEGGIDO fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Feb 28, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2017 14:43
|
|
|
I didn't bother to cut anything - ended up with a relatively clean install with a non-modular PSU into a 10L (or so?) case. I mean I can see how it could get borderline if you're really pushing minimum volume though.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2017 15:13
|
|
|
I wonder if it would be better to stick with a gtx 1080 for the 180w power draw vs the 1080ti with 250w draw for an Ncase M1. I game at 1440p at the moment if that helps.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2017 20:06
|
|
|
Coredump posted:I wonder if it would be better to stick with a gtx 1080 for the 180w power draw vs the 1080ti with 250w draw for an Ncase M1. I game at 1440p at the moment if that helps. I believe the 1070 is the recommended 1440p card. I'd hazard to guess before benchmarks hit that there'd be a difference but you'd need a gsync monitor to see it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2017 20:55
|
|
|
Wellp, the 1080Ti has been announced and it runs at lower wattage than the 980Ti. However, in guessing there's no chance that there will be a mini version. I'm hoping NFC will design a longer S4 mini, now. I wonder what would be a good use of the space on top, though. Maybe hard drives, SSDs or possibly space for a single 120mm radiator that would blow right through.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2017 21:26
|
|
|
Coredump posted:I wonder if it would be better to stick with a gtx 1080 for the 180w power draw vs the 1080ti with 250w draw for an Ncase M1. I game at 1440p at the moment if that helps. The 1080ti is 220w TDP, not 250w. I don't think 40w would make any difference in an NCase, just better performance. I'm getting one for my S4, since I currently max out at 270w with the 1080, and the newer HDPlex does 300w with a 400w peak it should be fine.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2017 21:30
|
|
|
Leaked info about Ryzen says that ITX motherboards have their own chipsets, X300 and A300. It might be a while before they show up.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2017 04:15
|
|
|
How much does open air vs. blower cooling matter in SFF? I'm thinking about getting a new GPU and am wondering if I'm pretty much locked into some Founder's Edition garbage or if I have options. I thought I remembered seeing some numbers on Hardforum and the difference was negligible.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2017 21:10
|
|
|
I need to do some modifications to the RVZ02 I own. The plastic bit in front (specifically the top left and bottom right corners of the front facade as seen on the official product page) protrude a few millimeters too far for my needs. How would I go about removing/rounding off the offending corners? They are plastic that appears relatively soft, as they were scratched by the metal frame of the suitcase I placed the computer into. Assume I do not have access to power tools.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2017 08:09
|
|
|
Metal files
|
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2017 10:07
|
|
|
beepsandboops posted:How much does open air vs. blower cooling matter in SFF? I'm thinking about getting a new GPU and am wondering if I'm pretty much locked into some Founder's Edition garbage or if I have options. Depends on the case. If it's PARTICULARLY CRAMPED with no exhaust vents nearby you're gonna need a blower style cooler (Node 202, specifically). Why? Because the open air design makes all the heat naturally dissipate away from the GPU, in the hopes that it will be blown away or removed from the system by the rest of your cooling operation. The cube-style SFF PCs have a natural current of air since they have an exhaust vent, or one large chamber that everything sits in, and a fan is blowing in and/or another fan is blowing out which makes the dissipating heat from the open air get whisked away. Some cases, like the Node 202, have a compartment with only one intake vent. This chamber is separated from the rest of the components and houses the GPU and maybe some intake fans in that same chamber. The only way for it to escape the chamber is through the back of the panel where the HDMI cases go and in the small hole where the PCI-E cords go. This means while it's running, the heat is necessarily trapped in that chamber: the only vents are used for intake and that hot air gets recycled and blown on the GPU and it gets hot as a motherfucker. If you have a blower style, it necessarily vents the heat out the back of the case solving this problem (but being loud as gently caress). The FTZ-01 and S4 Mini are both cases that feature a bunch of vents for hot air to escape from, meaning they don't need blower-style GPUs. Blower-styles will be effective in them, but they aren't necessary like they are in other certain cases. Other cases, like the SG-13, or other cube-ish style SFF cases usually have a single chamber that isn't separated and an exhaust vent where all the air in the case gets blown out, along with other vents for natural air exchange. Some even have intake fans to bolster this process so that fresh air is being dumped into the case where it mixes with the heat from ALL components which vents out via the outtake fan and other vents. The takeaway is this: any case that has a separate chamber for a GPU needs vents in that chamber that aren't used for intake of air so that the hot air can get the gently caress out of that bitch after being heated up by the GPU itself. In any case where there's just one big chamber, like a normal ATX tower or most cube-design ITX cases, the difference is negligible meaning you should get open-air coolers, since they are more silent and marginally more effective at cooling the GPU down. If you're looking for tiny-rear end cramped designs, it's prudent to consider if the hot air from the GPU will be able to be vented out of the case. If so, get an open-air. If not, get a blower and some ear plugs.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2017 22:59
|
|
|
Finished my NCASE M1 build last night. Parts i7 7700k, delidded, at 5GHz and stock voltage NZXT Kraken x52 (Because I wanted the newest pump and the H100i V2 doesn't fit.) MSI Z270i Pro Gaming AC 32GB DDR4 2400 Asus ROG Strix 1080, mild OC. This was a bitch to fit and I'm kind of scared about airflow because of it. Corsair SF600 PSU 500GB 960 Evo 1TB Crucial MX300 With Prime95 2.66 and Furmark running simultaneously nothing peaks above 80 and steady state temps are in the mid-70s. I'm planning to make some custom PSU cables soon because the stock ones are way too long and make the cabling a mess.   
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2017 20:01
|
|
|
Pokemon OH SNAP! posted:Finished my NCASE M1 build last night. Miss read the second pic, thought it said "Republic of Croatia". Maaaaaaaan that looks sweet as hell. I'm still wondering if i should order a N-Case for my future , the shipping and fees brings it closer to 230 $ which is pretty steep for a case.... It is hella good looking though. Ugh.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2017 01:39
|
|
|
I love mine. I intend to keep it for a long, long time.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2017 06:34
|
|
|
So sadly my Node 202 build (https://pcpartpicker.com/builds/edit/?userbuild=mXHhP6) has been suffering from mid-high 90s CPU temps after consistently peaking at ~88C for about a month. About a week ago I noticed the temperatures for core 1 start to creep up to 90, then 92, 95, and finally 98 (lol i am NOT playing overwatch again until i fix this). Currently my considered methods of reducing this temperature are: * Reapply thermal paste (possible I fudged this up in the first place, although im unsure if that would cause the gradual increase of temperatures we're seeing here). * underclock my 7700k * delid the CPU (im a little scared of loving this up) This is after I test under load with half of the case off to see what effect that has, although obviously I don't want to do that all of the time. Any suggestions or guidance? My GPU temps have always been fine.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2017 03:09
|
|
|
Is the processor at stock voltage? Assuming it is, I think probably either the thermal paste or the cooler mounting is the issue. Definitely carefully reapply paste and carefully remount cooler to make sure it is nice and snug on there. Don't stress about other stuff until you try that because I don't think you're likely to have to do anything more extreme.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2017 03:14
|
|
|
Col.Kiwi posted:Is the processor at stock voltage? Assuming it is, I think probably either the thermal paste or the cooler mounting is the issue. Definitely carefully reapply paste and carefully remount cooler to make sure it is nice and snug on there. Don't stress about other stuff until you try that because I don't think you're likely to have to do anything more extreme. kk, any recommendations for amazing thermal paste? edit: do these voltages look about right? http://imgur.com/a/E3fwc an skeleton fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Mar 6, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2017 03:20
|
|
|
Definitely retry mounting the CPU cooler. I've had situations where I mounted the cooler wrong (despite it looking properly installed), and temps shooting up to the mid 90s and causing system crashes. Its sort of nuts how much just the slightest lack-of-contact makes. Take your time, remove all the thermal paste until the CPU lid and copper contacts are immaculate, then try again. Wouldn't know what thermal paste to apply. I've always stuck with whatever was tossed in or cheap. I never overclock though. so the difference of a few degrees celsius doesn't mean that much to me with high-50s low 60s temps
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2017 03:26
|
|
|
If it's at stock clocks, would be worth undervolting it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2017 03:33
|
|
|
My SUGO 13, being the sub $50 scrap of metal it is, doesn't have any dust guards on three of its vents. This is a dumb question, but will buying sticky/magnetic dust filters for each vent keep dust out? And will it harm airflow in any way? The case is pretty much perfect and I plan on keeping this setup for the foreseeable future, but the case isn't too much fun to work in, so id like to avoid frequent dusting if possible.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2017 06:47
|
|
|
buglord posted:My SUGO 13, being the sub $50 scrap of metal it is, doesn't have any dust guards on three of its vents. This is a dumb question, but will buying sticky/magnetic dust filters for each vent keep dust out? And will it harm airflow in any way? The case is pretty much perfect and I plan on keeping this setup for the foreseeable future, but the case isn't too much fun to work in, so id like to avoid frequent dusting if possible. Your fans will have to work a bit harder to pull air through the filters, so the system might be a bit louder. You only need filters over your intake fans, though. Filtered intakes and positive pressure is the way to keep a case clean. If there is more intake than exhaust, then the case will have positive pressure while it's running, which should repel dust.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2017 08:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 22:02 |
|
|
an skeleton posted:kk, any recommendations for amazing thermal paste?
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2017 03:09
|
|