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One of the hoses on my 7M decided it didn't want to do its job properly. Luckily it decided to spring a leak right as I pulled up to where I was going and luckily I carry tools because I don't quite trust this bag of poo poo to run sweetly for very long. The annoying thing is I found the leak. And the leak was in the hardest to reach place because of course it would be. In order to get to it I had to remove; 1) the entirety of the air intake 2) the exhaust heat shielding 3) the loving distributor 4) the thermostat housing ...mainly because on this engine it's all packaged in such a way as to annoy the piss out of you, even doing something simple. So I pulled all that poo poo off after hoisting it up and draining the coolant and set about installing a shiny new authentic Jubilee clip to hold the hose on because I don't want this to be a thing. The fitting is so tight on the little 90 degree hose that I had to modify (read: bend a bit) the tiny little engine mounted heat shield for that one hose because of course the coolant hose sits within an inch of the headers. There's also the tiniest amount of room in there to tighten the thing up, I initially thought I could get to it from the front through the gap under the thermostat housing but no, I couldn't. This meant re-orienting the thing on its back and tightening it up 1/16th of a turn at a time. I gasket sealed the poo poo out of the thermostat housing too while I was there, not taking chances. Then all I had to do was fill it back up with coolant and set the loving timing without a timing light. I'd taken a few photos of the exact locations of the rotor and marked the distributor position on the engine mount point before taking it all off. After throwing it all back together I was minus a leak and the timing was pretty much spot on, certainly enough to get it home to do it properly. gently caress this engine though.
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Mar 13, 2017 10:27
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Rear main seal, clutch plate and disc, and throw out bearing all brand new. Valve cover gasket as well. Replaced timing and accessory belt along with the various seals, a new water pump also. New spark plugs too because why not. Next up is all four rotors and pads including hardware, the exhaust and then later all the control arms and ball joints. Probably quite a few junkyard runs for various trim bits as well. Feels good man.
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Mar 14, 2017 21:38
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Finished hooking up the wiring harness, installed spark plugs, spark plug wires, and put the battery on a charger. Close to making her start again!  Next I have to make a new intake pipe, reinstall the cleaned throttle body, reinstall cleaned radiator, fill with fluids, and find any wiring gremlins. 
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Mar 15, 2017 01:38
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KakerMix posted:Rear main seal, clutch plate and disc, and throw out bearing all brand new. Valve cover gasket as well. Replaced timing and accessory belt along with the various seals, a new water pump also. New spark plugs too because why not. Boost creeps newest video on his drift car build involves him talking about using factory lexus parts to make a bolt on big brake kit. Might be a thing worth doing.
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Mar 15, 2017 04:46
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MasonF posted:Finished hooking up the wiring harness, installed spark plugs, spark plug wires, and put the battery on a charger. Close to making her start again! You have no idea how much I love this. So I'm telling you that it's an awful lot and that you should take plenty more photos.
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Mar 15, 2017 11:04
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Reversed into a rather solid concrete wall and made a bit of a mess Guess it's a lesson to not rely on sensors and cameras too much :/
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Mar 19, 2017 02:37
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dissss posted:Reversed into a rather solid concrete wall and made a bit of a mess You have a Camry dent now. https://www.google.com/search?q=Camry+dent&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjJ8IDU5eHSAhWBKiYKHZ02DrEQ_AUICCgB&biw=1047&bih=567
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Mar 19, 2017 06:05
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Vanagoon posted:You have a Camry dent now. Holy poo poo, I have never heard of those kind of dents called that, but that's so right
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Mar 19, 2017 10:15
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You Am I posted:Holy poo poo, I have never heard of those kind of dents called that, but that's so right The Incredible Mystery Of The 'Camry Dent' http://jalopnik.com/the-incredible-mystery-of-the-camry-dent-1785413530
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Mar 19, 2017 11:19
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Never heard of the Camry dent, but it checks out.
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Mar 19, 2017 15:53
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Changed the fuel filter on my wife's new-to-her Tracker to solve the issue of 'idles roughly until you press the gas then it's fine'. Solved the issue of course, but now I wonder about the condition of the tank. Based on the evidence I don't think this car has ever left Naples, Florida since it was bought new in 1991. Also how do you guys up north deal with stuff? There isn't any rust on the fuel filter hardware that I had to deal with and I still had to soak it in PB blaster just to get the thing loose and I tore the old filter apart anyway. 
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Mar 19, 2017 20:16
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Mostly swearing, lubricants, alcohol, swearing, tears, pleading, broken tools, smashed knuckles, drill bits, more tears and swearing, taps, tap extractors, more swearing and alcoholism, more drills, helicoils, more swearing, more drills, and some random rear end through bolt and nut that can hold it back together.
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Mar 19, 2017 20:31
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And a liberal application of BFH (a big loving hammer.) just did the waterpump on my mom's liberty. i had to grow an extra elbow to get some screws holding the overflow tank that sits over top of the belts because gently caress you chrysler. changing the water pump on a rwd v6 shouldnt start with anything beyond "remove the belt, unbolt the water pump." removing the horn should never be a step.
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Mar 19, 2017 20:40
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kastein posted:Mostly swearing, lubricants, alcohol, swearing, tears, pleading, broken tools, smashed knuckles, drill bits, more tears and swearing, taps, tap extractors, more swearing and alcoholism, more drills, helicoils, more swearing, more drills, and some random rear end through bolt and nut that can hold it back together. don't forget the impotent honking
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Mar 19, 2017 21:03
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KakerMix posted:Also how do you guys up north deal with stuff? There isn't any rust on the fuel filter hardware that I had to deal with and I still had to soak it in PB blaster just to get the thing loose and I tore the old filter apart anyway. That bracket doesn't look rusty enough for PB Blaster to help, but if I were going to use it anyway I would make a little pool of PB on the top of the bracket so it can sit against the thread of the bolt and seep downward. Tap the head of the bolt with a screwdriver and hammer to break up any static rust and then impact it off. If the hinge seizes, I would just crank it open with a screwdriver and some strategic mini sledge taps. My rust is nowhere near as bad as New England rust, but it would still have reduced that bracket to an unrecognizable mess by now. It'd be bodged by the PO to a pair of hose clamps on the frame which would require dremeling off. The banjo bolt for the fuel line would be the real nightmare because those things, although they're usually cad/galvy plated, cannot deal with being impacted. I would probably get a crescent wrench and hammer on the end of it and hope for the best if it were seized, and expect to replace it otherwise. Everything would get a little dose of fluid film before getting reinstalled and that bracket would probably get a ghetto driveway pass of Tremclad/Rustoleum. Putting antiseize on that collar bolt probably wouldn't help too much by the next time you do that fuel filter which is apparently 2043. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Mar 19, 2017 |
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Mar 19, 2017 21:38
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KakerMix posted:Changed the fuel filter on my wife's new-to-her Tracker to solve the issue of 'idles roughly until you press the gas then it's fine'. Solved the issue of course, but now I wonder about the condition of the tank. Based on the evidence I don't think this car has ever left Naples, Florida since it was bought new in 1991. Lol. For a Geo? That is absolutely rust-free. That car would have had that level of corrosion in Northern Ohio within the first three years, perhaps sooner. Those cars were notorious for being desperate in their search to disintegrate.
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Mar 19, 2017 22:05
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EVERYWHERE 
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Was going to say - based on the rust level that's at best a well-maintained 10 year old car in the rust belt
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Mar 19, 2017 22:21
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Seminal Flu posted:Lol. For a Geo? That is absolutely rust-free. That car would have had that level of corrosion in Northern Ohio within the first three years, perhaps sooner. Those cars were notorious for being desperate in their search to disintegrate. Geoj posted:Was going to say - based on the rust level that's at best a well-maintained 10 year old car in the rust belt  I truly don't think it left Naples let alone Florida. 36k on the clock. The trick to avoid rust is live somewhere where it doesn't happen  I grew up in Michigan so I know rust it's just at the time I didn't know or care mechanically about cars so I never had to deal with it.
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Mar 19, 2017 22:42
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Bought more crap for it. Turns out Walker exhausts rust out super fast, my muffler and pipe I installed brand new in late 2014 are in tatters now. Elsa posted:don't forget the impotent honking  Maybe you should keep your crusade, as you call it, in the thread it's at least tangentially related to? 
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Mar 20, 2017 00:34
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kastein posted:Mostly swearing, lubricants, alcohol, swearing, tears, pleading, broken tools, smashed knuckles, drill bits, more tears and swearing, taps, tap extractors, more swearing and alcoholism, more drills, helicoils, more swearing, more drills, and some random rear end through bolt and nut that can hold it back together. Close, but it needs more swearing. The occasional guttural scream helps, too.
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Mar 20, 2017 03:23
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I finally found that pesky coolant leak that's been slowly trickling away for the past several days on the GTO. On the way home last night, it suddenly became more of a steady fountain stream that found its way into the cooling fan which then dispersed it all over much of the engine bay. Mercifully I was close enough to be able to make it home with the spare coolant I had kept in the trunk, and then confirmed the leak earlier today after everything had a chance to cool down overnight. It was still difficult to see exactly where, but I was able to trace it back to the radiator near one of the seams between the core and plastic side tank. Considering it's a Spectra One replacement that I installed about 5-6 years ago, I can't say I'm overly surprised or disappointed as it technically lasted about as long as the original one did before it failed in almost the exact same way. I've just got done ordering the majority of the parts I need to convert from the LS1 cooling system to the LS2 design that has the pressure cap on the radiator instead of the overflow tank and a functioning drain plug instead of nothing at all. And as long as all of that mess is apart; I can finally replace the leaking power steering pump and rusted out return lines. Yay. 
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Mar 20, 2017 04:07
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Went to a pick and pull wreckers today and finally got a replacement removable rear parcel shelf for my Focus hatch, also got a pair of tail lights from wrecked Focus as they have the factory LED strips in them. $90 for both tail lights and parcel shelf, done.
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Mar 20, 2017 05:39
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Replaced the inline (main) fuel pump and filter on the 245, it starts and runs much better now. Still need to do the in-tank pump and sending unit, and the tank itself, but for now this will do.
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Mar 20, 2017 06:03
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Elsa posted:impotent honking moooooddddddddddddddddddddddddddds! I replaced the brakes on the Protege5, I was able to use just over finger pressure to push one piston in, the other side has a torn piston boot and took the fancy Performance Tool* brake caliper piston thing. At least these brake pads have wear indicators, the old ones ground backing plates right into the rotor. *both terms used loosely DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Mar 20, 2017 |
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Mar 20, 2017 06:06
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Root Bear posted:I finally found that pesky coolant leak that's been slowly trickling away for the past several days on the GTO. On the way home last night, it suddenly became more of a steady fountain stream that found its way into the cooling fan which then dispersed it all over much of the engine bay. Mercifully I was close enough to be able to make it home with the spare coolant I had kept in the trunk, and then confirmed the leak earlier today after everything had a chance to cool down overnight. It was still difficult to see exactly where, but I was able to trace it back to the radiator near one of the seams between the core and plastic side tank. Considering it's a Spectra One replacement that I installed about 5-6 years ago, I can't say I'm overly surprised or disappointed as it technically lasted about as long as the original one did before it failed in almost the exact same way. Hey LS buddy, I replaced my plastic radiator with a beefier aluminum one from alradco dot com. My swap was prompted by a roadkill incident but I never liked the plastic bits anyway. Especially how it was held in place by the aluminum tabs.
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Mar 20, 2017 07:27
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dissss posted:Reversed into a rather solid concrete wall and made a bit of a mess I love that it hit smack in the middle of one of the sensors that are supposed to keep you from doing that. Vanagoon posted:The Incredible Mystery Of The 'Camry Dent' I hate seeing those. How hard could it be to just reach up in there and pop it back out? Elsa posted:Hey LS buddy, I replaced my plastic radiator with a beefier aluminum one from alradco dot com. My swap was prompted by a roadkill incident but I never liked the plastic bits anyway. Especially how it was held in place by the aluminum tabs. Those composite radiators always seemed to me to be doomed to failure. I mean, copper and brass or all aluminum fail too, but usually less often, and can be repaired. One of the plastic tanks or the o-ring goes, and that radiator is scrap.
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Mar 20, 2017 16:38
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Darchangel posted:I love that it hit smack in the middle of one of the sensors that are supposed to keep you from doing that. Yeah, whats worse is the system is stuck on now so I get thirty seconds of beeping every time I go to reverse out of the garage just to remind me I'm a moron.
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Mar 20, 2017 21:38
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Darchangel posted:I hate seeing those. How hard could it be to just reach up in there and pop it back out? I had a 99 Camry once. There is all kinds of Styrofoam and poo poo in the way. You have to remove the bumper cover to smack it straight again. I managed not to earn a Camry Dent. I wrecked the loving thing instead. 
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Mar 20, 2017 21:50
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Darchangel posted:Those composite radiators always seemed to me to be doomed to failure. I mean, copper and brass or all aluminum fail too, but usually less often, and can be repaired. One of the plastic tanks or the o-ring goes, and that radiator is scrap. Can be, yes, but how often are they? Last time I had a leak on my C10's copper/brass radiator, I couldn't find a shop that would fix it. Wouldn't have been much cheaper than a new one anyway.
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Mar 20, 2017 22:04
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IOwnCalculus posted:Can be, yes, but how often are they? Last time I had a leak on my C10's copper/brass radiator, I couldn't find a shop that would fix it. Wouldn't have been much cheaper than a new one anyway. I've got a local radiator shop down the road that's patched my F100's radiator a couple times now, and always for a very reasonable price. unfortunately, it needs it again, and he thinks the core is just starting to fall apart. Happens when it nears 60 years old I guess. Finding a replacement that's not megabucks and also isn't cheap garbage is proving difficult, though.
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Mar 21, 2017 04:15
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Dumb question, can a radiator be repurposed from another vehicle if you can find one with similar fittings or a way to adapt them? I don't know a ton about radiator construction, isn't it all pretty similar though?
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Mar 21, 2017 04:49
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Flow pattern, core thickness, fittings, mounting arangement and demensions all need to be considered.
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Mar 21, 2017 05:10
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Flow pattern, core thickness, fittings, mounting arangement and demensions all need to be considered. Or you could just stick on any old thing with the appropriate thermostat and resize accordingly only if it can't keep the temperatures in spec.
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Mar 21, 2017 05:17
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Or redneck it like me and put the biggest one from the junkyard you can fit in there and Yolo. I mean, watch your gauges.
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Mar 21, 2017 05:17
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You Am I posted:Went to a pick and pull wreckers... This is the biggest thing I miss after moving to Perth four years ago. There are no DIY yards here, and buying parts from wreckers is stupidly expensive. I flew over to Melbourne for three days in November to see my sick grandmother, packed light and brought some tools in my luggage so I could spend an entire morning at pick-a-part... Spent $60 on a 20-odd kilo box full of assorted AU Falcon parts, which went home as checked luggage. It was cheaper to spend $200 on a whole car for donor parts a few weeks ago rather than buying anything from wreckers.
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Mar 21, 2017 09:24
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I McGuyvered a classmate's car last night after their battery died. I got the call asking for jumper cables and I don't carry any, but I decided the battery cable to my subs would do. It's plenty thick, maybe 8 gauge. I installed my subs four years ago and left a ten foot section of cable coiled under the passenger seat. I cut it out and then in half and stripped it. I keep assorted zipties in my car in an emergency bandaid kit and used some of the tiny ones to hold the ends of the wires on the terminals. My subs are down for maintenance until I re-crimp the shortened power cable, but whatever! Mission accomplished.
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Mar 22, 2017 16:47
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Finally removed the mostly disabled aftermarket alarm from the 968 so it's back to stock, electrically at least. The installer actually did a respectable job and only cut a single original wire but put watertight connectors where it was re-routed so I just had to unplug the new wires and re-connect the old. There were a couple of those little piggyback splice things which I don't love but they were watertight ones and the output from them was also watertight spade connectors so overall I didn't have to cut anything or install couplers during the uninstall. The airbag light is triggered now though because someone else had disconnected it then resistored the warning off. Tomorrow is durametric day though so I should be able to fix that pretty easily. Next up is re-gluing the spoiler trim screw tabs back into the main parts which should be easy and get rid of 90% of the rattles.  
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Mar 22, 2017 20:15
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Elsa posted:Hey LS buddy, I replaced my plastic radiator with a beefier aluminum one from alradco dot com. My swap was prompted by a roadkill incident but I never liked the plastic bits anyway. Especially how it was held in place by the aluminum tabs. Darchangel posted:
Trying not to break any of the molded plastic nipples when working near them is like walking on eggshells as well. One wrong move is all it takes...  Speaking of which, a much more proper replacement arrived today: 
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Mar 23, 2017 03:24
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Root Bear posted:Trying not to break any of the molded plastic nipples when working near them is like walking on eggshells as well. One wrong move is all it takes... Nice! Vendor? How much?
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Mar 23, 2017 03:46
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Elsa posted:Nice! Vendor? How much? $350 from Summit Racing. Which is around $150 cheaper than an OEM Delco replacement from Rock Auto, and it's built like the aluminum equivalent of a brick poo poo-house in comparison. Root Bear fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Mar 24, 2017 |
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Mar 24, 2017 05:24
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