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Goo P-Nut Sack posted:I apologize, he was referring to the MakerBot brand when he told me that. I was just confused. Realigning the bed would be no problem, although the self aligning beds seem nice. And here I am playing with getting my bed leveled to +/- 0.002".
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Apr 18, 2017 17:22
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mewse posted:Worth noting that the Monoprice printers are rebadges of the Wanhao Duplicator series Not all of them, but either way you get them for less money and with a better warranty/support/replacement system since they're sold by Monoprice. A full one-year replacement warranty if something goes horribly wrong is tough to beat.
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Apr 18, 2017 17:51
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I just pulled the trigger on a Monoprice Maker Select Plus, thanks for the information boys. I'll report back after I gently caress it all up on Thursday!
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Apr 18, 2017 18:04
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Goo P-Nut Sack posted:I just pulled the trigger on a Monoprice Maker Select Plus, thanks for the information boys. I'll report back after I gently caress it all up on Thursday! It's basically the same as the Wanhao of the same name, here is a review to watch while you wait: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoEApsA7pAk
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Apr 18, 2017 18:42
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Yea keep us posted as that is the one I have my eye on as well. Someday, not now as I don't have a place to put it nor the $ I want to throw at this hobby yet, but someday.
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Apr 18, 2017 18:46
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biracial bear for uncut posted:It's basically the same as the Wanhao of the same name, here is a review to watch while you wait: You'd think they'd have the Z-brace mod on them. It's amazing how much it improves print quality.
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Apr 18, 2017 19:00
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Luminaflare posted:You'd think they'd have the Z-brace mod on them. It's amazing how much it improves print quality. I'm pretty concerned about Z-wobble on the mk2 clone that I'm very slowly building. Tom's z-wobble is awful but he used vinyl tubing as the couplers. My M5 rods are definitely not straight either but I haven't cut them down yet. e: Oh, that z-brace is much different than what I was expecting. Was thinking bearing at the top of the Z axis like p3steel toolson edition mewse fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Apr 18, 2017 |
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Apr 18, 2017 19:04
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Luminaflare posted:You'd think they'd have the Z-brace mod on them. It's amazing how much it improves print quality. Eh. It's much simpler to just clamp the frame to the table you have the printer on.
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Apr 18, 2017 19:08
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Eh. It's much simpler to just clamp the frame to the table you have the printer on. ...How? The wobble is in the vertical part of the gantry.
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Apr 18, 2017 19:29
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Luminaflare posted:...How? The wobble is in the vertical part of the gantry. If the surface is flat and you clamp in the right place, the Y-axis frame will pin the base of the Vertical gantry to the table. I thought someone posted pictures in this thread doing the same thing but that may have been the Facebook group. It is a bit tricky, and I used some tiny c-clamps on each side to do it, but it does work. Any wobble that overpowers that setup means you're running too fast, because that powder-coated steel angle is pretty rigid when it's pinned down. The Z-brace is nice if you plan on moving the printer a lot, but if not, just lock it down so it can't move on the table. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Apr 18, 2017 |
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Apr 18, 2017 20:18
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Frame and smooth rods for prusa mk2 clone showed up the same day!! H*ck yeah!!
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Apr 19, 2017 00:13
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Just to chime in and show some support for the Lulzbot mini, compared to the mono price low low-end offerings there and completely different classes. The Lulzbot works out of the box without having to level it or anything. It has an auto bed leveling system and like the Prusa MK II it will let you focus on doing actual printing and not having to mess with the printer. The hotend goes up to 300° C which opens up several other materials that may be of use. The biggest downside to purchasing one is if you have other printers they most likely will not use the same filament size. The Mini holds up to abuse well and the one in our office has traveled overseas while checked as luggage and also been dropped off of a desk and did not require repair to keep printing. I eventually did have to fix a crack in one of the plastic pieces about nine months after it was dropped. As for the build volume size, I would say about 70% of the stuff I print will fit onto its build plate. That number is skewed lower then it could be. because I have access to printers with notably larger build areas so I tend to design with the intent of printing on the larger printers. The Lulzbot TAZ 6 is also a great printer with a much larger build volume as well. The TAZ takes very minor assembly, but you can be up and printing in 10 minutes after opening the box.
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Apr 19, 2017 02:43
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Golluk posted:And here I am playing with getting my bed leveled to +/- 0.002". Compared to 3D printers, high-quality subtractive machining is in a whole other universe, for sure. Like -- a cheap FDM you can expect 100~200 micron layers, and an extremely good SLA machine might get you down to 25-microns -- about .001". One-thousandth of an inch is where high-precision machining starts. Like "okay, we've got a baseline, now let's get this thing really trued up." That said, 3D printing absolutely has a place in the shop if you use it properly and you're not all stuck up about it. I know one particular machinist who just constantly mocks 3D printing as terrible garbage, no precision, toys for children, real men would never touch that, you'll never see one in my shop, and so on. Meanwhile I've got 3D-printed parts made on a desktop printer rumbling around on my motorcycle every day, rain or shine, still showing no signs of fatigue or wear. 
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Apr 19, 2017 05:04
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Goo P-Nut Sack posted:I just pulled the trigger on a Monoprice Maker Select Plus, thanks for the information boys. I'll report back after I gently caress it all up on Thursday! Go buy this gear: https://www.3dp2go.com/38-teeth-steel-extruder-drive-gear-id-5mm-p-450.html
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Apr 19, 2017 10:43
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torpedan posted:Just to chime in and show some support for the Lulzbot mini, compared to the mono price low low-end offerings there and completely different classes. €1200 vs €180 I'd hope it's in another class 
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Apr 19, 2017 10:54
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Sagebrush posted:
Unfortunately with the stigma we still hold over blue collar jobs, my industry tends to attract some real dummies. The majority of the people I've gotten to work with are cool but I've encountered my fair share of stubborn, racist jingoists too. It's mostly online that I see the whole, "hurr u ain't a machinist if u don do thjs type of werk!" Everyone at my shop is pretty pumped about 3D printing but I work for a smaller company full of nerds haha. Any machinist who doesn't see additive as a compliment, at least, to subtractive manufacturing in the future is kidding themselves.
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Apr 19, 2017 12:50
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Go buy this gear: Payment failed on that site but I got one with the same spec through amazon instead.
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Apr 19, 2017 13:08
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Goo P-Nut Sack posted:Unfortunately with the stigma we still hold over blue collar jobs, my industry tends to attract some real dummies. The majority of the people I've gotten to work with are cool but I've encountered my fair share of stubborn, racist jingoists too. It's mostly online that I see the whole, "hurr u ain't a machinist if u don do thjs type of werk!" Everyone at my shop is pretty pumped about 3D printing but I work for a smaller company full of nerds haha. This. Wow, it's like we work in the same shop. I don't expect my 3d printer to replace a forging or some massive cast iron part. Like you said, a lot of people are pumped, especially when they start to think of it in a unique way and not just something to print Pikachu's.
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Apr 19, 2017 13:38
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Yooper posted:This. Wow, it's like we work in the same shop. I've gotten a lot of mileage out of my 3d printer just printing guide jigs for specific drilling fixtures and small pieces to interlock together into dovetail guides on a router table, etc. I could see a machine shop using a 3d printer to print a bunch of similar jigs/guides the day before actual machining on parts needed to be done and getting a lot of use out of one that way. Even if you aren't making a finished product with a 3d printer, you can use one to make things that help you make other things in combination with existing tools.
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Apr 19, 2017 13:46
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The Mori lathe I work on has live tooling, which means the spindle turns into an indexable c-axis and the turret has holders for milling tools on it that spin at 6k rpm so I can make parts complete and even square. That machine is from 2009, the newest Moris have all that plus a 3D metal sintering head that can straight up print a right angled part that extends passed the diameter of the stock you're machining. It'll print in steps and then the live tooling comes back in and mills it to clean it up. Realistically, 3D printing is already here if you work for like some state of the art facility.
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Apr 19, 2017 15:24
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That is somewhat to be expected, since the hobby level printers we play with today aren't that far removed from the stuff being used back when 3d printing was actually started up by Charles Hull in 1983 (though that was SLA rather than FDM).
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Apr 19, 2017 15:50
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Sagebrush posted:Compared to 3D printers, high-quality subtractive machining is in a whole other universe, for sure. Like -- a cheap FDM you can expect 100~200 micron layers, and an extremely good SLA machine might get you down to 25-microns -- about .001". Compared to what machining costs to start as a bare bottom baseline, even a turbodunce should be able to see that a 3d printer offers some room for overlap. I was at a presentation and a local shop that does airplane poo poo commissioned a custom super wide format version of a 3d printer because they use it to 3d print support designs for planes. Apparently when refurbishing/maintaining planes they sometimes have to replace individual aluminum supports, and the new ones tend to need to be a slightly different shape than they originally were to fit properly. Each one is basically a custom job with a bit of tweaking needed. In the bad old days, they would 3d model the (estimated) replacement, mill a prototype, test fit and made any adjustments to the 3d model, then repeat as needed and eventually mill a "good" one out of aluminum once all the tweaks are done. Then start the next one. Instead they now 3d print the early prototypes as the design is refined. It may have cost them like 20k for a custom extra wide printer version, but compared to paying to have your prototypes machined it was a no brainer.
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Apr 19, 2017 16:39
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Yooper posted:
I use mine to make things that I cast in aluminium if that counts?
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Apr 19, 2017 21:42
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It has its place. No point buying a CNC to mill plastic pieces like drawer pulls or PCB board supports and project boxes. And no point 3D printing a sliding, machining support or jig. 3D printing isn't the end all be all, but instead something that fills a niche and augments existing tooling. I'm making some learning towers for the kiddos, and will ninjaflex print handles with their names embossed on them. And maybe custom floor sliders. I wouldn't make those parts any other way, even if I had a 6 axis CNC and a lathe and a mill. People trying to 3D print machine vices and oil pans for their RC nitro planes, however. Those are somewhat inappropriate.
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Apr 19, 2017 21:57
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¿Porque no los dos? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndx-amkf4qU
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Apr 20, 2017 00:01
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TerminalSaint posted:¿Porque no los dos? geeeeeeeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz I thought sintering was done in a tub of material. They show a diagram of the extruder in that video but I still don't really get it. Does the laser shoot down the middle while a gas/metal powder is blown out around the beam, and it fuses that?
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Apr 20, 2017 02:13
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I don't speak German, but that would be my guess. It appears to blow out an inert shielding gas, and then lase the workpiece and shoot metal powder at it.
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Apr 20, 2017 03:57
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TerminalSaint posted:I don't speak German, but that would be my guess. It appears to blow out an inert shielding gas, and then lase the workpiece and shoot metal powder at it. Yep. Mostly adcopy, but http://www.engineering.com/AdvancedManufacturing/ArticleID/8778/3D-Printing-and-5-Axis-Machining-Combined-in-One-Machine.aspx
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Apr 20, 2017 04:31
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There's more to 3D printing than just the cheap-and-rough prototyping, though. There are some parts that are either extremely expensive and complicated or literally impossible to machine, but which an additive tool can build without breaking a sweat. Like, here's a part I was recently working on  Try conceptualizing how you'd make that with a CNC mill. Imagine how many setups it would require, how many different fixtures and complex toolpaths and custom tools. Hell, try imagining even the sort of injection mold you'd need to mold it. It's got blind holes and occluded overhangs and internal passages everywhere. The only traditional method I can think of that's even remotely reasonable would be investment casting. But the part prints in a single shot on a desktop printer in about 6 hours, no support required, and in carbon-reinforced nylon it's as strong as injection-molded ABS. Any machinist who doesn't appreciate that is really sabotaging their own skillset IMO.
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Apr 20, 2017 06:08
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Sagebrush posted:There's more to 3D printing than just the cheap-and-rough prototyping, though. There are some parts that are either extremely expensive and complicated or literally impossible to machine, but which an additive tool can build without breaking a sweat. Absolutely, but acceptance of new tech must always go through what I call a "implement the old on the new" phase before it gets used in genuinely new ways. Any tech that doesn't allow for this phase hamstrings its own adoption and dies out due to being ahead of its time, imo. I think 3d printers are still working on the first part with respect to "real" work.
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Apr 20, 2017 07:16
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I dunno, when I hear about someone getting a replacement part on their skull or a new titanium ribcage built, I'm pretty sure 3d printing is officially in use.
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Apr 20, 2017 07:24
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That's pretty cutting edge and amazing stuff but there's still plenty of shop guys who consider it toy tier stuff with no future or place in actual professional work. Speaking of pro work, the Carbon 3D guys whose printers complete with injection molding seem super cool but they run their stuff on a "subscription/licensing" base only. Starts at $50k/yr for those of you considering a business case 
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Apr 20, 2017 08:22
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:I dunno, when I hear about someone getting a replacement part on their skull or a new titanium ribcage built, I'm pretty sure 3d printing is officially in use. One of our clients is a surgical oncologist who works primarily on jaws. We do same day prints of their MRI scans for them to bring into surgery so they can have an excellent model of exactly what they need to work on. It's turning up in places you'd never think of.
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Apr 20, 2017 12:15
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This is sinter printing, but a local dentist I went to, paid for with Army vouchers so not some fancy high-end one, had next-day 3D printed custom grinding shields. The ones you sleep with. Laser scanned and poo poo instead of polymer impressions.
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Apr 20, 2017 12:40
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Uhg, amazon sent me the wrong printer. A V2 instead of the Plus. Back you go, to wait for a woman with less discriminatin' taste. 
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Apr 20, 2017 15:30
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God drat, Full Spectrum Laser want $500 to replace the beaglebone controller (About £50~to buy a blank one) or $100 if they only have to reprogram it. This is excluding shipping and handling from UK to Las Vegas.
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Apr 20, 2017 15:44
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 grooaann Trying to work on my mom's birthday present, but I'm still dealing with retraction issues, it looks like. I've been troubleshooting by trying to print these tiny cylinders, and keeping the retraction points at the same point of the model to make the issue most prominent. I've been following the Simplify3D troubleshooting guide, toying with all of the retraction settings, but nothing seems to fix it. What are the standard settings for retraction? My understanding is that, for direct extrusion, you keep retraction around 1-2mm. Or is there something else that might be causing this? El Estrago Bonito posted:Yeah no, never spray indoors without a spray booth. You can however build a decent spray booth for like ~25 bucks worth of poo poo from ACE so that's not hard. Oh, no, of course you don't spray anything indoors. I was talking about Glazing Spot Putty. Even a small amount of that is going to gas you out of your apartment.
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Apr 22, 2017 03:18
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Upgrading my old printer and that feeling when you look at a piece faaaar deep down you put in like one of the first steps and thinking....You are upside down aren't you. 
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Apr 22, 2017 03:28
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Revol posted:What are the standard settings for retraction? My understanding is that, for direct extrusion, you keep retraction around 1-2mm. Or is there something else that might be causing this? Maybe work thru these suggestions: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#blobs-and-zits I think you're correct about 1-2mm for direct drive. I have mine set to 5mm for bowden drive.
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Apr 22, 2017 03:53
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Have you tried experimenting with the setting that stops extruding a certain distance before the end of the perimeter (iirc coast?).
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Apr 22, 2017 03:59
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