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I had a pad with a screw cast into the material. Was terrible to track down.
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Apr 30, 2017 03:09
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I own an automatic 1988 Nissan Langley Model X, because it's a Super-Special-Maximum-JDM-Only-Unique-Model tracking down the correct parts for it can be a pain, especially as apparently 1988 was a change-over year for Nissan introducing new parts. Anyway, It ended up failing it's last inspection on a leaky master cylinder and was quoted several hundred dollars for a replacement, which was quite shocking, but not as shocking as going online and finding that all the stores are asking 500 pounds for a new TRW replacement. Same mechanic quoted me $350 for a rebuild; and that's not knowing if the cylinder is actually in a rebuildable state or not. So I was in a bit of a bind, but, I found on Ebay the same part (I think) for $80 shipped. Same cylinder sizing and everything. Only issue is that it's a mirror copy due to RHD vs LHD, but I decided to buy it along with a brake pipe kit for bending some new connector lines to solve this issue. Fast forward to this morning and after swapping it over, bending new pipes, bleeding the system and charging the battery because it had gone flat, the brake feel is quite spongy. It does brake but you have to push the pedal half-way to get solid performance, and that very gradual braking force you'd get in the first 1cm is now spread over the first half of the pedal instead. Soo... have I goofed the brake bleed? I've done it a few times before and never had this issue. Do I have the wrong brake booster for this model? I don't see why they'd change from LHD to RHD if it's the same cylinder. Do I have the wrong cylinder? This is what I got off Ebay and the one listed for my car is this Nabco one. Have I missed something else? Also, why are there hundreds of different master cylinders in the first place? Would it be easier for all manufactures to just have standardized sizes depending on weight/tow-class? Jomo fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Apr 30, 2017 |
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Apr 30, 2017 04:27
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Suspect Bucket posted:Hey, what's the best way to insulate a fiberglass truck topper? Just looking for an r5-10ish to keep the heat and noise down, I'd like to camp in it in the Florida area, so humid and hot. Can I just use rigid foam, a DIY sprayfoam, or should I invest in some Aluminized Heat and Noise Shield. It'd be a white topper on a white truck (2010 Ford Ranger XL Supercab). Is this feasable, or dumb? Polyiso is 1-inch thick and gives R-6.5, also it is water resistant, and faced with a reflective sheet: http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-R-6-5-Foam-Insulation-268417/100576728
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Apr 30, 2017 07:17
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Is there a particular paint type you guys can recommend for steelies? I'm wire brushing my winter wheels and want to refinish them in silver but don't know what rattlecan is best for the job. Will just about anything work or do I have to worry about heat etc?
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Apr 30, 2017 16:25
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Is safercars.gov aka NHTSA a reliable way to verify whether an individual car had recalls? Seems OK just don't know if has a rep of government incompetence or something
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Apr 30, 2017 19:09
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My black car is leaking???? 2003 Subaru Forester XS auto, ~180 000 kms. I'm in Vancouver, for reference. Leaking coolant from the head gasket, for the third time. First time I had it replaced under the used car warranty (would have cost around $3000 CAD), and the second time I did it myself (for about $1000). A quick search tells me the car is probably worth between $4-6000 if the engine isn't hosed. Someone tell me what to do with this car. It's otherwise in great condition. I don't have a garage to work in, so while I can do the repair myself it's like 2 days of tearing an engine apart in my driveway, avoiding rain, and stopping work every time I need a tool that's currently at work.
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Apr 30, 2017 19:28
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Update: pads and rotors changed, bullshit screws came out with no trouble, and there's no noise 
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Apr 30, 2017 20:02
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Jomo posted:I own an automatic 1988 Nissan Langley Model X, because it's a Super-Special-Maximum-JDM-Only-Unique-Model tracking down the correct parts for it can be a pain, especially as apparently 1988 was a change-over year for Nissan introducing new parts. Anyway, It ended up failing it's last inspection on a leaky master cylinder and was quoted several hundred dollars for a replacement, which was quite shocking, but not as shocking as going online and finding that all the stores are asking 500 pounds for a new TRW replacement. Same mechanic quoted me $350 for a rebuild; and that's not knowing if the cylinder is actually in a rebuildable state or not. A lot of people recommend bench bleeding a master cylinder first. Did you do that? My brother changed the clutch master cyl on his 99 miata and I was pedal man when he was bleeding it. We kept getting air in that poo poo, or rather coming out of the slave cylinder until we bench bled it. After that, there were not really any more issues. Just bleed the air bubbles that got in while the M/Cyl was off. As far as is it the wrong cyl because RHD vs LHD I have no idea.
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Apr 30, 2017 20:16
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'07 CTS-V, 130,000 miles. I'm looking at a four month break between classes and I'm considering a rebuild versus selling it and getting something else. I'd like to rebuild it with a 6.6 kit while I'm at it, and I'm just curious what AI thinks would be the best options right now. I've heard LS2s are very stout and can hold out until 150,000 miles before a rebuild, but I'm not going to have this kind of free time for the next few years. Car is paid off, and I like it. It's fast enough despite its age. 6.6L sounds nice and I'd like that badge on the back (cut from two 3.6 badges). heh Thanks
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Apr 30, 2017 20:44
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whats the best way to identify where in a trunk a water leak is coming from? Just inherited a car and the spare tire compartment is loving full of water and everything is rusty and moldy as gently caress
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Apr 30, 2017 20:48
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Doorknob Slobber posted:whats the best way to identify where in a trunk a water leak is coming from? Just inherited a car and the spare tire compartment is loving full of water and everything is rusty and moldy as gently caress This might be dumb as hell but dry it out in a garage so there's no water anywhere, then spray it down with a hose for a bit. Open it up and see where it's come in. If that doesn't work try pouring water on one part at a time.
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Apr 30, 2017 20:55
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Doorknob Slobber posted:whats the best way to identify where in a trunk a water leak is coming from? Just inherited a car and the spare tire compartment is loving full of water and everything is rusty and moldy as gently caress You could try stuffing some paper toweling just on the inside of the seal all the way around. Then spray it with a hose, open it up and see where the highest wet spot is. That's where it first got through.
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Apr 30, 2017 21:06
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Hey, the car I had that lost a heated O2 sensor a few months back just threw the code for the other one. Normal for these to go out around the same time since they are basically identical and living under identical circumstances?
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Apr 30, 2017 21:53
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For the leaky trunk I'd pour water over the trunk with a hose and climb in through the back seats with a flashlight
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Apr 30, 2017 21:57
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Comedy fluorescent dye and blacklight option
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Apr 30, 2017 22:08
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wesleywillis posted:A lot of people recommend bench bleeding a master cylinder first. Did you do that? Did do a bench bleed. Just realised this morning that for the two female connectors in the system I did a double, not a bobble, flare which might be causing them to not seal properly. Maybe? Gonna take of the master cylinder and remeasure it against the old one today as well.
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Apr 30, 2017 22:53
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Elsa posted:'07 CTS-V, 130,000 miles. I'm looking at a four month break between classes and I'm considering a rebuild versus selling it and getting something else. I would just keep driving it. The LS motors usually don't have any problems will into upper 200k miles unless your spraying them or just an asshat about upkeep. Neighbors 5.3L truck has 325k miles for reference.
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May 1, 2017 00:15
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My Fiesta rainwater leak is hilariously still happening. Body shop readjusted the door to get it/the seals closer to the body. Will have to take it back!  They probably think I am pouring water into the footwell, like a Münchhausen's for cars. The dealer had all the carpets/seats out, covered it with water, and saw no ingress. Yet it keeps soaking one of the rear carpets after rain. I hope it's not some microscopic body panel out of whack that can never be repaired. In that case I'm selling this thing. The moral question is would I disclose the issue? Ford will refuse to help since it is out of bumper-to-bumper. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 01:38 on May 1, 2017 |
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May 1, 2017 01:32
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Christobevii3 posted:I would just keep driving it. The LS motors usually don't have any problems will into upper 200k miles unless your spraying them or just an asshat about upkeep. Neighbors 5.3L truck has 325k miles for reference. Hey thanks for the advice. I'm replacing the motor mounts and trans mount as soon as they come in. If it lasts me through the rest of school that would be a great outcome. I'm certainly willing to give it a shot.
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May 1, 2017 01:40
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Elsa posted:Hey thanks for the advice. I'm replacing the motor mounts and trans mount as soon as they come in. If it lasts me through the rest of school that would be a great outcome. I'm certainly willing to give it a shot. Yes why rebuild if its fine its an LS that's been refined over the past 70 years. If it shits the bed rebuild it.
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May 1, 2017 02:54
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Alternately, if you wanna chuck a stroker kit in it, loving do it, thats the perfect time for a rebuild anyways. But use a duramax badge, since those came as a 6.6l from the factory.
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May 1, 2017 02:59
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lol I love AI
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May 1, 2017 03:26
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If you have time and money see if you can get a second ls2 for cheap to rebuild. It doesn't cost much more to go through a crappier motor than a fully functioning one. That would keep you from having a bunch of downtime then. If you are worried do an oil analysis and see if you have more wear junk in the oil and a compression test. Sometimes you can detect issues prior but yeah I'd just keep driving it.
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May 1, 2017 04:28
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Christobevii3 posted:If you have time and money see if you can get a second ls2 for cheap to rebuild. It doesn't cost much more to go through a crappier motor than a fully functioning one. That would keep you from having a bunch of downtime then. If you are worried do an oil analysis and see if you have more wear junk in the oil and a compression test. Sometimes you can detect issues prior but yeah I'd just keep driving it. That's a really good idea. I thought about getting a second, beater car. There's a huge difference between working on your only daily and your second car. When you have a backup the experience is therepeutic and you can take your time, compared to THIS NEEDS TO BE STREETABLE NOW I never considered that one. Any suggestions where I can find a duplicate LS2 that has a decent chance of not having major problems?
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May 1, 2017 04:34
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I dunno, but I will point out that while the 5.3s and 6.0s can hit 300k without many issues, an LS2 that has been driven hard will be less likely to pull of the same feat. 2 different styles of driving, 2 different engine lifetimes.
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May 1, 2017 04:51
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Cop Porn Popper posted:I dunno, but I will point out that while the 5.3s and 6.0s can hit 300k without many issues, an LS2 that has been driven hard will be less likely to pull of the same feat. 2 different styles of driving, 2 different engine lifetimes. Yeah I don't track or drag it. It was a traveling salesperson's car before me. Had 75k miles in three years. Hearing they tend to last 200k+ is enough for me.
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May 1, 2017 05:09
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Honestly, any common engine today should be able to break 200-300k pretty easily. The LSx family in particular has been proven time and time again to be drat near indestructible. Check out sloppymechanics on youtube. That dude gets high mileage truck versions of the LSx family, throws massive amounts of boost and nitrous at them, some tuning, and goes out and surprises the poo poo out of everyone. When he blows one up, he just slaps another one together with junkyard parts, including used head gaskets. He blows poo poo up now and then, but he just grabs another engine for a few hundred bucks if he doesn't have the parts on hand to cobble it back together. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:33 on May 1, 2017 |
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May 1, 2017 06:31
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Honestly, any common engine today should be able to break 200-300k pretty easily. The LSx family in particular has been proven time and time again to be drat near indestructible. From where?
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May 1, 2017 06:36
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sweet loving gently caress that's impressive
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May 1, 2017 06:42
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My own stupid question. Finally replaced the map sensor on my car (been throwing a code for it for a few months). Figured i'd watch OBD2 data on the drive home. 21 inches of vacuum at idle, holding steady, is generally a sign of decent engine health right? It would go up to about 25 if I let off the throttle at highway speeds. Elsa posted:From where? Junkyards. Some of the engines he's thrown into his rides had (documented) 250k+ on them, and came out of work trucks, work vans, etc. Memento posted:sweet loving gently caress that's impressive And just think.. he had 2 nitrous kits on it, but one of them popped a line as soon as he hit it. Imagine what numbers it might have put down if the line didn't pop free  (or what would have blown up in a spectacular fashion)
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May 1, 2017 06:49
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:My own stupid question. Finally replaced the map sensor on my car (been throwing a code for it for a few months). Figured i'd watch OBD2 data on the drive home. 18-22 is about right.
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May 1, 2017 07:03
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Good to know. Car has 170k, here's to another 170k.  e: I'm assuming being at the upper end of that range is better, right? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:57 on May 1, 2017 |
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May 1, 2017 07:32
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Jomo posted:Did do a bench bleed. Just realised this morning that for the two female connectors in the system I did a double, not a bobble, flare which might be causing them to not seal properly. Maybe? Gonna take of the master cylinder and remeasure it against the old one today as well. Checked the flared nut connectors, no leaks after driving it around to the local shops. Bled the system following the proper Nissan instructions. Success!! Brakes like it use to. Actually brakes within the first 1/4 of of pedal travel. Emergency braking stops it fast and locks up the wheels (non-abs) if I really jump on it so I consider that a win. Doesn't help that I've become too accustomed to the Honda Fit/Jazz which has 90% of its braking power within the first 10% of it's pedal length. Will be taking it for inspection tomorrow so we'll see how it actually performs.
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May 1, 2017 07:45
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So I had to open up my car doors on my 1988 Ford F150, on one side to clamp a stupid loving rivnut that just spun in its hole for the side mirror, on the other side to help convert a 9th generation door into an 8th generation door. If you're wondering the difference, they changed the mounting holes for the side mirrors. Otherwise, they're identical. My questions are about this weird shrink-wrap-looking plastic on the insides of the doors just behind the panels. 1. What is that plastic for? 2. Should I replace it? If so, how and with what?
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May 1, 2017 18:05
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kid sinister posted:
1. It's to seal the door against dust/moisture/drafts. 2. On a 29yo truck? I wouldn't. If you really care, I've used heavy plastic plastic sheeting from the paint section of the hardware store before. I just duct taped it in place because I am a lazy hack.
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May 1, 2017 18:18
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Boys who love boys
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monsterzero posted:1. It's to seal the door against dust/moisture/drafts. Ah, a vapor barrier. I should've figured that you don't want to let the insulation on the inside of the door panel get all moldy.
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May 1, 2017 18:59
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Recently acquired a vehicle. 2015 highlander to be specific. Kids climbing in and out, but it's a bit tall. Good/cheap-ish running boards? who/what/where? All my stupid googling points to generic as hell web storefronts that are sketchy as hell. I don't need/want the $$$ of oem. Just something that can help small kids and small wife to climb into said vehicle. edit: rust has the potential to be a concern because of N. VT.
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May 1, 2017 19:06
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The front brake disks on my 2002 Wrangler are worn and should be replaced, but they've developed a little bit of a lip that's preventing me from popping the caliper off. What's the easiest way to remove the caliper? Angle grinder to the disk? Open the bleed valve and muscle the piston back?
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May 1, 2017 21:24
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Safety Dance posted:The front brake disks on my 2002 Wrangler are worn and should be replaced, but they've developed a little bit of a lip that's preventing me from popping the caliper off. What's the easiest way to remove the caliper? Angle grinder to the disk? Open the bleed valve and muscle the piston back?
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May 1, 2017 22:33
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Safety Dance posted:The front brake disks on my 2002 Wrangler are worn and should be replaced, but they've developed a little bit of a lip that's preventing me from popping the caliper off. What's the easiest way to remove the caliper? Angle grinder to the disk? Open the bleed valve and muscle the piston back? You've already retracted the piston completely?
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May 1, 2017 23:24
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