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Finished wire wheeling & respraying my subframe (I'd guess about 75% of the original black paint was gone and it was getting very rusty,) replaced the serpentine belt, idler and tensioner pullies (one of the pullies had a squealing bearing) and dragged a new set of shifter cables through the firewall so I can consistently shift into second gear.
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Apr 25, 2017 00:01
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Was trying to track down a squeal from my truck's rear end that was only when moving at low speeds. I jacked it up and spun the wheels and heard some drag on the driver's side. Thought it was the brake shields rubbing initially so I touched them and they crumbled onto the floor.  michigan.jpg I still heard scraping so I pulled off the rotor and the parking brake shoe was hosed, and it is a drum style that pushes on the rotor hat. This led to me replacing the rotor and shoe. I was feeling confident she was going to be squeak free... Then I pulled it out of the garage to the same loving sound as before. Wiggled the driveshaft a bit and it seems the rear most u-joint is dying. Another order to rock auto and 20 ton shop press purchased. 
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Apr 25, 2017 15:12
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RillAkBea posted:On this occasion it is a completely on point translation that says near enough exactly the same as what it says in English. The manual for my '71 Honda CL350 repeatedly refers to the regulator/rectifier unit as the "pointless regulator." It's an entirely correct term for the time, since it was a new solid-state design that didn't rely on the old vibrating-points method that was in prior use. Please remove the pointless regulator before proceeding. Do not forget to reinstall the pointless regulator on assembly.
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Apr 26, 2017 01:44
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the spyder posted:It got a car cover. I found a importer willing to import anything I send them a OEM part number for. So far it's worked on hatch struts, brake caliper brackets, and this car cover. Be very careful putting it on / removing it. Car covers are car scratch heaven.
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Apr 26, 2017 07:12
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MrOnBicycle posted:Be very careful putting it on / removing it. Car covers are car scratch heaven. I have three shades of white on different ends of the car, so I'm not too worried. It's better then the grinding dust/sawdust that it gets covered in sitting in the shop. Downside to not having a separate area to park. Up until this fall it was sitting outside. I really need to start on the covered parking area behind the shop.
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Apr 26, 2017 21:50
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 Replaced long-neglected aspects of this Tracker. The wheel cylinders were filled with rusty mud, the struts were all collapsed, the calipers were also filled with rust mud while the pins were rust-welded in the bracket while the rubber boots were hard, brittle and filled with now-fossilized silicone. The rotors were very warped to hell and back too. Has the brake fluid ever been changed since 1991?  Discovered that you don't get a bleeder screw on the passenger rear cylinder either, just the driver's side. Next: The oil pan. KakerMix fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Apr 28, 2017 |
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Apr 28, 2017 02:54
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Larrymer posted:Was trying to track down a squeal from my truck's rear end that was only when moving at low speeds. I jacked it up and spun the wheels and heard some drag on the driver's side. Thought it was the brake shields rubbing initially so I touched them and they crumbled onto the floor. Not to be the safety Nazi, but with that rust I'd check the brake lines. You probably already did, but it amazes me how they can rot out. Ain't fun living in the rust belt. And from experience it isn't fun piloting three different cars when a brake line goes out.
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Apr 28, 2017 03:05
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C-Bangin' it 
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KakerMix posted:
It's too late now but bright yellow shock gaiters would have been perfect on that thing.
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Apr 28, 2017 14:01
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Colostomy Bag posted:Not to be the safety Nazi, but with that rust I'd check the brake lines. You probably already did, but it amazes me how they can rot out. Ain't fun living in the rust belt. And from experience it isn't fun piloting three different cars when a brake line goes out. I replaced all of the 4 fronts last summer. Didn't replace the rear yet since it requires the bed to come off. So if a line goes, it's just the rear brakes. 
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Apr 28, 2017 16:44
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Geoj posted:Finished wire wheeling & respraying my subframe (I'd guess about 75% of the original black paint was gone and it was getting very rusty,) replaced the serpentine belt, idler and tensioner pullies (one of the pullies had a squealing bearing) and dragged a new set of shifter cables through the firewall so I can consistently shift into second gear. Finished with this yesterday, subframe went in with a surprising level of ease. Also got my shift cables adjusted correctly, it's great being able to consistently hit second gear again. Scheduled for an alignment tomorrow afternoon, I had thought if I locked the wheel with the keys out it would be sufficient to keep the wheel aligned but now I have to hold the wheel over about five degrees to the left to go straight. Plus I'm sure the frame isn't perfectly aligned either.
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Apr 29, 2017 21:39
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Hacked up my overhead console and a Denali console plus a 3D printed switch block to upgrade my truck to have the built in home link garage door thing, plus a switch for my light bar in the bed. I've also got sunroof switches but no sunroof... Need to print an adapter to mount more switches.
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May 1, 2017 01:18
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Operation: Cooling System Swap is completed, and it only took the better part of a very stormy Saturday to tear it all down and build it back up. In addition to the new radiator and associated components, I also replaced the power steering pump and reservoir, new rubber power steering return lines with an in-line filter, and a new serpentine belt. I also removed the majority of the non-working A/C components, which freed up some much needed space in a few places. I would've taken more pics, but with the aforementioned lovely weather, I just wanted to get it done and get the gently caress home before there was a power failure or some other disaster. Before:   During:  After:   The old bottle is temporary until I find time to tear the inner fender out and install a proper OEM overflow bottle. I also have to find a way to bypass the old low coolant sensor with a resistor pack, since unplugging it will just throw a code and turn on the CEL. So far, everything else is working the way it should with no leaks or temperature issues as of yet.
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May 2, 2017 02:16
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Got the truck good and hot, checked all the fluids and started a to-do list for when i make some garage space. That old 7.3 blows my mind. it's over 200,000 kms, probably 10,000 hours, and over 8,500kms on synthetic and it's only down 1/2 a liter, and most of that probably leaked out of the turbo pedestal. At operating temp there's absolutely no blow-by. I can't believe the company that built it went from something so unbelievably solid straight to the 6.blow. As long as i don't do something stupid, i could be using that engine for the rest of my life.
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May 2, 2017 20:42
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I forget, Ford? We have about thirty 7.3s still kicking around. Sure, I killed one last year, but it had over 650k miles on it. The one I'm in today has 639k miles and we're taking it out of town on a critical care transport. Our 6.ohno engines keep blowing up. My other ride, my regular ambulance, has had FOUR completely new engines between 122k and 171k. 
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 21:06 on May 2, 2017 |
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May 2, 2017 21:03
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Yeah, 99 7.3 powerstroke. I would imagine it's a little more fun in my 5800lb truck than a 10kish? ambulance. We'll never see an engine that sturday again.
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May 2, 2017 21:13
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I hear the new 6.7 is good. But, they have soured many buyers between the 6.ohno and 6.4 that wasn't as bad but still had problems (it ate turbos and...cylinder liners? Iirc)
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May 2, 2017 21:33
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angryrobots posted:I hear the new 6.7 is good. But, they have soured many buyers between the 6.ohno and 6.4 that wasn't as bad but still had problems (it ate turbos and...cylinder liners? Iirc) The 6.7 is good, but you'll spend a new truck's value on maintenance by the time it hits 500k. The 7.3 has no HPFP, no EGR, no EGR coolers, no DPF, no SCR. None of the terribly expensive acronyms. Just a HPOP and some injectors and it'll run. If you live somewhere without emissions testing you can spend 10 grand getting rid of all the garbage and it will probably last. My 7.3 doesn't even have a catalytic converter. Just engine, turbo, muffler and out.
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May 2, 2017 21:56
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Oh sure for a personal truck I mean it's a great engine...I looked at one a few weeks ago. But for fleets/professional haulers the reality is that you have to replace your trucks at some point, and emissions standards are the reality now. The beginnings were rough, but honestly our newer trucks are pretty seamless. The emissions have been much less troublesome than the clutch, transmissions, and cooling systems on our f750 CAT/6 speed trucks.
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May 2, 2017 23:31
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Got the BRZ back from the dealer today for a few warranty issues. I removed the tint on the front windows so the car will pass inspection in the lovely state of new york!
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May 3, 2017 00:54
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Where the hell is the 4.6/5.4 triton thread with CoP failures? Crown Vic forum? drat truck stumbles. No codes no matter how hard I tried to cause a code. Replaced the last two original CoPs today (1 and 2) and still does it. But praise baby Jesus, drove it again and finally gave me a flashing MIL and the pending code is a p0308. Thank god it isn't a 304.
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May 3, 2017 01:29
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I don't know where the thread your referencing is, but for triton misfires you need to look at mode $06 data. There are counters there, it takes a couple thousand to actually trip the MIL.
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May 3, 2017 02:35
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rdb posted:I don't know where the thread your referencing is, but for triton misfires you need to look at mode $06 data. There are counters there, it takes a couple thousand to actually trip the MIL. Yeah, perhaps I was doing something wrong but the Torque app had zeroes across the $06 data misfires across all cylinders. For a 98. Whatever, at least it threw a pending code. Drove me nuts.
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May 3, 2017 02:57
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Colostomy Bag posted:Where the hell is the 4.6/5.4 triton thread with CoP failures? Crown Vic forum? drat truck stumbles. No codes no matter how hard I tried to cause a code. Replaced the last two original CoPs today (1 and 2) and still does it. But praise baby Jesus, drove it again and finally gave me a flashing MIL and the pending code is a p0308. Thank god it isn't a 304. What year? It might not be COPs. it might be bad cam phasers, cam phaser actuators(ford quietly released updated ones), or worn cam lobes on the front 2 cylinders from running too thick of oil, which was ford's temporary solution for phaser tick. A batch of 05s and 06s also got faulty injectors, but only the 05s were ever officially recalled. I chased down an idle shake in my 5.4 for years. It wasn't until it's final drive to the auction that it finally spit out it's first code for it, which was the cam position sensor.
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May 3, 2017 09:21
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Powershift posted:What year? It might not be COPs. it might be bad cam phasers, cam phaser actuators(ford quietly released updated ones), or worn cam lobes on the front 2 cylinders from running too thick of oil, which was ford's temporary solution for phaser tick. A batch of 05s and 06s also got faulty injectors, but only the 05s were ever officially recalled. A 98. No cam phaser crap. So basically a CoP change and if I'm feeling good the plug as well. Which is what I normally do even though the plugs I changed out have 50K on them. But then that gets into the whole head thread issue and blowing plugs out. Funny thing is, starting in on this I swear I swapped out the #8 CoP before, but looking at it before I rip it out looks like the original Motorcraft coil on there. I usually pull the fuel line for that side, and of course when I did two o-rings stuck in the housing. Why can't poo poo be simple.
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May 3, 2017 18:05
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Well this is one of those clusterfuck projects that should have been simple. But alas, it is turning into fiasco of biblical proportions. And I got quite the laugh awhile ago doing this. Problem right now is getting the plug out. Given the motor, got the requisite three extensions and an universal or two on it but the plug not budging. Shot some PB blaster down the hole and letting it soak for now. This is one of those where I could total the truck moment. If it won't budge, will just replace the COP. Woohoo.
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May 3, 2017 23:10
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 Got it with a little over 60k 4 years ago. Still pretty happy with it overall, it's been reliable and held up pretty well. Lots of little poo poo has needed attention, but the engine, trans, and clutch have been troopers. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:38 on May 4, 2017 |
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May 4, 2017 07:14
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Crossposting from the chat thread cuz it's  Roadmaster tiiiiiime Taking pictures while working on cars is something at which I am VERY BAD so I wish I had more snaps. Here goes:    Was in my garage to change the aforementioned pressure line hose. I found the very last one in existence anywhere in Minneapolis  This loving outlet's flare nut was pissing me off but it's okay now. It's okay. 
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May 4, 2017 17:44
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scuz posted:Crossposting from the chat thread cuz it's It is probably the most deceptive engine bay ever. You look at it and compared to modern stuff you think "holy hell, there is so much room." In reality, not so much on what you really need to get to.
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May 5, 2017 15:34
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Colostomy Bag posted:It is probably the most deceptive engine bay ever. You look at it and compared to modern stuff you think "holy hell, there is so much room." In reality, not so much on what you really need to get to.
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May 5, 2017 15:54
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scuz posted:That was one of the reasons I was very much looking forward to working on it: no contortionist nonsense to get to things! I was very wrong, even my Golf's engine bay is easier to work in. Yep, that's the funniest thing with these things. Should also have the LT1 right?
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May 5, 2017 17:20
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Colostomy Bag posted:Yep, that's the funniest thing with these things.
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May 5, 2017 17:38
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scuz posted:This li'l lady has an L05. Not too bad, my dad's Caprice has the L99. Gutless as frig.
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May 5, 2017 18:17
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It sounds so mean, too, just love it. Out of curiosity, and since nearly everyone here has more experience than I do working on these, what are some common trouble spots/recommended upgrades for this motor/car? I'm already suggesting shocks/springs and tie rods, but wondering what I should keep my peepers peeled for. The gal who owns it is 100% serious about keeping it running for the rest of her natural life.
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May 5, 2017 18:40
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I'd just take a hard look at the suspension in general. Control arm bushings and ball joints both were extremely bad on my '65, but I dunno if a '90-something would really be degraded to that level. But if you're tearing into there anyway, that's one place that made a big difference to me. 'Course, I put lowering springs in there when I did all that, so that probably contributed a good bit of the improved handling right there. But the other stuff definitely took a lot of slop out. It's a 4L60(E?) trans I assume. Those are not exactly known for being the longest lived components ever, so keep an eye on that. Since you aren't putting a ton of power through it, though, it's probably fine to just rebuild it or replace it with the same thing if it fails, though. Raluek fucked around with this message at 19:00 on May 5, 2017 |
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May 5, 2017 18:58
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The entire control arms are pretty spendy, seeing as how the front has 4 of them, so it miiiight be time for a bushing swap and perhaps new tires. The steering IS soupy as hell, and while part of that is the fun of land barge ownership, part of it sucks. Would it be worth doing a disc conversion in the back? My sensible side says "you're dumb, scuz, just make sure it all works" while the experimental side of me says "you've never done it before and wouldn't it be fun to learn?" And, yeah, that's the transmission. I'm gonna check the fluid color/level next time I see it.
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May 5, 2017 19:40
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scuz posted:The entire control arms are pretty spendy, seeing as how the front has 4 of them, so it miiiight be time for a bushing swap and perhaps new tires. The steering IS soupy as hell, and while part of that is the fun of land barge ownership, part of it sucks. Would it be worth doing a disc conversion in the back? My sensible side says "you're dumb, scuz, just make sure it all works" while the experimental side of me says "you've never done it before and wouldn't it be fun to learn?" Depends on your budget. I'd definitely check the bushings out and check the ball joints and all the steering stuff, pitman arm, drag link, etc. I'd spring for 9C1 or Impala SS springs and decent shocks, maybe a bigger sway bar along with some poly bushings for the control arms. All that could probably be done for $600 or so. I wouldn't bother with the rear brakes first, I'd get it driving well. The drums are adequate.
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May 5, 2017 20:46
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scuz posted:"you're dumb, scuz, just make sure it all works" Just get the drum hardware and check the cylinders and leave it be. If you want to do something neat then maybe install a transmission cooler instead since that seems like something that would really help.
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May 5, 2017 20:52
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wallaka posted:Depends on your budget. I'd definitely check the bushings out and check the ball joints and all the steering stuff, pitman arm, drag link, etc. I'd spring for 9C1 or Impala SS springs and decent shocks, maybe a bigger sway bar along with some poly bushings for the control arms. All that could probably be done for $600 or so. KakerMix posted:Just get the drum hardware and check the cylinders and leave it be. If you want to do something neat then maybe install a transmission cooler instead since that seems like something that would really help.  on the brakes. Coolers sound fun, I'll check into that (again, something I've never done). Very likely that it already has one since it's showing up on the "replacement parts" on rockauto, but 
scuz fucked around with this message at 21:06 on May 5, 2017 |
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May 5, 2017 21:01
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Raluek posted:It's a 4L60(E?) trans I assume. Those are not exactly known for being the longest lived components ever, so keep an eye on that. Since you aren't putting a ton of power through it, though, it's probably fine to just rebuild it or replace it with the same thing if it fails, though. The later they get, the better they are, at least. Given the L05 and presumably TBI, I think that car probably has a TV-cable controlled 700R4/4L60, instead of an ECM-controlled 4L60E. If it does end up making GBS threads the bed, at least there's a million documented upgrades for them that any decent rebuild shop should be using. The 700R4 might even be more prolific than the SBC itself.
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May 5, 2017 21:42
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scuz posted:The entire control arms are pretty spendy, seeing as how the front has 4 of them, so it miiiight be time for a bushing swap and perhaps new tires. The steering IS soupy as hell, and while part of that is the fun of land barge ownership, part of it sucks. Would it be worth doing a disc conversion in the back? My sensible side says "you're dumb, scuz, just make sure it all works" while the experimental side of me says "you've never done it before and wouldn't it be fun to learn?" Yeah, your 4L60 will poo poo the bed. Mine is out in the street and will only do 1/3 due to the 2/4 band not operating. Probably my next project. Along with other things listed, the window regulators are absolute poo poo. Don't be surprised when the window comes crashing down. Fortunately the fix is replacing a plastic slider with a plastic wheel. A Droman $5 special for two that should cost $.05. Not a fun job, but expect it to happen. There are ways to snap up the handling using a Ford sway bar and some muffler clamps.
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May 5, 2017 22:38
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