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Number_6 posted:This is more of a wish than a troubleshooting question, but will we ever have PCs that are upgradable in a modular or scalar way without having to scrap the whole box and start over with a new motherboard/socket/CPU? Many CPU socket designs have really short shelf lives so you have little to no upgrade path (in CPU terms). I'd love some kind of simple way to just plug in a supplemental co-processor through a simple interface like USB on steroids, without even breaking open the case. I'm sure the answer is some boring combination of issues with OS thread handling and memory bandwidth and system architecture limitations and computers being cheap anyway but I still wish for a simple way to add raw CPU juice to old systems that would otherwise be EOL. There used to be one or two companies that made funky socket adapters so you could (try) to run like a much later Tualatin Pentium 3/4 or something on Slot 1 systems, but nobody seems to make that kind of thing anymore.
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May 5, 2017 05:52
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That sort of thing went out of style because today's cpus aren't really much faster than they were in 2011, but the motherboard features are significantly enhanced. If you were somehow able to put a 7600K into, say, a P67 board, you'd only gain about 25% more CPU grunt, at max. But you wouldn't have DD4, native USB3, m2 slots, pci-e gen 3, or all 6 SATA ports running at SATA III speeds.
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May 5, 2017 06:01
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Imo it seems like computers are getting more and more diverse all the time, what with serial interfaces now going straight to pci and stuff like FPGA's happening. So what you mention seems to be kind of happening now, it's just currently heading into the unknown.
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May 5, 2017 10:06
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Yeah as everyone else said, usually the rest of the system is worth replacing at the same time due to age, especially if you've already upgraded the cpu to a high end one for the respective socket. Case in point: I recently had 2 core2quad systems that needed am upgrade, one was mine and one was a friends. She was on a super budget, so she got a 3.4ghz xeon chip modded to work in her old socket. But that was such an oddity of an upgrade involving updating bios microcode to accept the new cpu and run it properly. I however was wanting a full upgrade, so I got a modern kabylake system with ddr4 ram etc. I ran some tests with each system using an ssd, 970 gtx, 8gb ram and with her system running an old 4 core 3.4ghz xeon and mine on a modern 2 core 4 thread g4560 at 3.5ghz. For the most part the results are very close, usually within 10% or so. However things like minimum framerate suffers alot more on the old system. Her cpu cost was £15 and mine was £55. I know it's not quite what you meant when you asked the question, but it does backup what other guys were saying about extra cpu power not quite being the bottleneck.
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May 5, 2017 13:05
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The market for people looking to comprehensively upgrade their old systems isn't really large enough to be worth the effort of designing special versions of new processors that work in old sockets. The memory controller would have to have multiple versions to accommodate different versions of DDR, and iGPUs would have to be designed with old chipset compatibility in mind as well. Motherboard manufacturers would have to put out BIOS updates (for free?) with new generations of CPU for motherboards they sold years ago. There are a lot of considerations. You could make a case that sockets should only change when the memory technology changes - e.g. Haswell/Broadwell should have been on the same socket as Sandy/Ivy Bridge - but I feel like going any farther than that is of questionable value, and even then you have to make sure your motherboards are going to be designed with voltage regulation that can handle whatever range of voltages/currents will be demanded over several generations of CPU. I think Socket 775 was probably the longest-lived platform spanning about 5 years from Prescott P4s to Yorkfield Core 2 Quads, but even that isn't as unified as it might appear since older systems don't have the chipsets and software support for the highest-end CPUs. It was only reasonable then because the memory controller was off-die and you didn't have to worry about popping a DDR1 processor into a DDR3 board or vice versa. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 15:56 on May 5, 2017 |
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May 5, 2017 15:49
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Eletriarnation posted:I think Socket 775 was probably the longest-lived platform spanning about 5 years from Prescott P4s to Yorkfield Core 2 Quads, but even that isn't as unified as it might appear since older systems don't have the chipsets and software support for the highest-end CPUs. It was only reasonable then because the memory controller was off-die and you didn't have to worry about popping a DDR1 processor into a DDR3 board or vice versa. Nah, that's probably Socket AM2+. You can use anything from Athlon 64 up to Steamroller, assuming your BIOS supports it. Literally a decade's worth of processors.
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May 5, 2017 21:37
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Paul MaudDib posted:Nah, that's probably Socket AM2+. You can use anything from Athlon 64 up to Steamroller, assuming your BIOS supports it. Literally a decade's worth of processors. 6 of those years of processors are pure poo poo though.
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May 5, 2017 21:48
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My question is : Should I update my bios? I have just built a Ryzen 5 1600 computer using an Asus Prime Plus b350 motherboard. Everything seems to be working correctly. I overclocked my ram (g.skill ripjaw V 3000) to it'S proper speed using the timing and voltage on the ram and everything seems to be working fine. I still need to do more testing and updating drivers, but so far so good. If I don't encounter any problem, should I update the bios? Is there anything to be gained? Is it really risky to do it?
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May 8, 2017 00:19
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KingColliwog posted:My question is : Should I update my bios? Since Ryzen is still in its infancy as a platform, you should probably keep up to date with firmware updates to get the best performance and stability possible. AMD is issuing microcode updates that motherboard makers have to incorporate into firmware updates, and those same OEMs are also improving stuff like memory stability and compatibility through those same updates. Most motherboard EFIs have firmware update tools built in that will install a new version right off a FAT32-formatted thumb drive. It's not a scary process at all—a couple clicks and a restart is usually all it takes. You can brick your system if the power goes out or something, but I've never had an issue updating firmware through the EFI-based flashing tool on any board. Here's the downloads page to check for your board: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/PRIME-B350-PLUS/HelpDesk_Download/
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May 8, 2017 00:41
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What's a good, cheap (~$10) mic? Preferably with clip-on rather than stand. Maybe it's asking too much but should not pick up background noises etc.
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May 10, 2017 09:46
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Changing from a GTX 970 to a GTX 1080 ti tomorrow, I can just swap them out and don't need to do any driver changes?
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May 10, 2017 12:23
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Zedsdeadbaby posted:Changing from a GTX 970 to a GTX 1080 ti tomorrow, I can just swap them out and don't need to do any driver changes? That's what I did and haven't run into any problems. Went from GTX 660 -> 970 -> 1060 without ever uninstalling/reinstalling drivers.
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May 10, 2017 15:03
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von Braun posted:What's a good, cheap (~$10) mic? Preferably with clip-on rather than stand. Maybe it's asking too much but should not pick up background noises etc. AntLion modmic and Blue Snowball are the cheapest things worth recommending. On a $10 budget go to Best Buy and see what they have on the shelf. Probably won't find anything decent cheaper than ~$20 though.
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May 10, 2017 15:57
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Ok I don't see a generic Hard Drive thread so here are a couple questions... I'm running outta HDD space so I picked up a 4TB drive and dropped it into my Windows 7 machine, the BIOS says it's 4TB but disk management only shows it as 1.6TB. I did some googling and read that my SATA controler might not support >2TB drives. If that's the case wouldn't the BIOS only show is at <2TB? Am I boned here and need a new motherboard to support this size drive? or is it something I'm missing? and if I need a new MB to get the full space, could I use it right now and then expand the volume into the extra space later when I do upgrade the hardware?
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May 10, 2017 18:21
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How old is your board? The 2.2TB limit was fixed years ago. If you want to keep your old board and aren't using the new drive as a boot drive, you can get an add-in sata card to support the higher capacity instead.
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May 10, 2017 19:28
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You probably just need to go to Disk Management and convert it to a GPT drive. Doing so will necessitate a format, so I hope you haven't put anything vital on it yet. E: Sorry, read over the point where you said you already went to disk management. I guess try updating your bios? Geemer fucked around with this message at 21:09 on May 10, 2017 |
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May 10, 2017 21:07
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von Braun posted:What's a good, cheap (~$10) mic? Preferably with clip-on rather than stand. Maybe it's asking too much but should not pick up background noises etc. The Zalman zm-mic1 is clip on and good. Bought it on the internet's suggestion and I've gotten compliments on the audio quality since then. Assuming this is for ventrilo/skype etc and not recording, of course.
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May 10, 2017 21:38
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I asked this in the part picking megathread but thought it might be better asked in here: Can anyone recommend a good external HDD dock that will take sata and IDE? There's a wide variety out there, all from brands I've never heard of.
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May 10, 2017 21:49
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Fruits of the sea posted:The Zalman zm-mic1 is clip on and good. Bought it on the internet's suggestion and I've gotten compliments on the audio quality since then. Yeah, exactly, not starting a podcast. It looks like what I'm looking for. Thanks!
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May 10, 2017 21:58
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Geemer posted:You probably just need to go to Disk Management and convert it to a GPT drive. Doing so will necessitate a format, so I hope you haven't put anything vital on it yet. It figures right after I posted I found a solution on another site. Turns out my "Intel Rapid Storage Technology" software was out of date, updated it and Disk Management showed 4TB like it's supposed to. Thanks for the suggestions.
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May 10, 2017 23:41
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Fruits of the sea posted:The Zalman zm-mic1 is clip on and good. Bought it on the internet's suggestion and I've gotten compliments on the audio quality since then. This is the one I use. It's been fine for voice chat but I still want to upgrade to a modmic in the future.
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May 10, 2017 23:45
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Buca di Bepis posted:This is the one I use. It's been fine for voice chat but I still want to upgrade to a modmic in the future. I just ordered the ZalMan. The other recommendations were above $50 here, ZalMan was $8.
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May 11, 2017 09:33
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I also have the Zalman mic that was recommended, been using since CSGO came out and works/sounds great.
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May 11, 2017 18:22
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What would be more reliable for an external hard drive used for backups (i.e. powered off for extended periods of time; given how lazy I am; potentially years) -- one single 8TB 3.5" or two 4TB 2.5" disks? Both are Western Digital Passport drives, which I believe are the same drives as WD Blue.
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May 13, 2017 03:53
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Chuu posted:What would be more reliable for an external hard drive used for backups (i.e. powered off for extended periods of time; given how lazy I am; potentially years) -- one single 8TB 3.5" or two 4TB 2.5" disks? On the whole, there should be little difference between the two types of drives in terms of failure rate. Splitting up the data onto two separate 4 TB drives versus one 8 TB drive does mean less chance of losing all your data, but can mean more chance of losing some of your data, simply because you now have two things that might fail instead of one. So I guess you need to decide whether you'd be more bothered by potentially losing everything from one major problem versus a higher chance of a major problem that can only take out half at once.
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May 13, 2017 04:10
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fishmech posted:On the whole, there should be little difference between the two types of drives in terms of failure rate. Splitting up the data onto two separate 4 TB drives versus one 8 TB drive does mean less chance of losing all your data, but can mean more chance of losing some of your data, simply because you now have two things that might fail instead of one. Is there going to be a difference in terms of bit rot?
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May 13, 2017 05:36
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Maybe go for the 2 x 4tb but allocate 1tb from each for the most important data?
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May 13, 2017 13:08
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Captain Hair posted:Maybe go for the 2 x 4tb but allocate 1tb from each for the most important data? What's that even going to accomplish? The fast majority of hard drive failures are all-or-nothing type deals caused by physical wear. Bit rot is not going to be an issue for normal old-school magnetic hard drives over their useful lifespan.
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May 13, 2017 14:13
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Geemer posted:What's that even going to accomplish? The fast majority of hard drive failures are all-or-nothing type deals caused by physical wear.
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May 13, 2017 15:05
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Chuu posted:Is there going to be a difference in terms of bit rot? Not really. If you're looking for something to store data for like decades, then you should try getting an optical burner drive and some M-Disc media to write to.
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May 13, 2017 15:34
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Flipperwaldt posted:I think the idea is to have the most impotant data on both drives in case one of them goes out. That's how I'm reading that. That makes a lot more sense. I thought they meant it in a "you'll still have your important data partition if the rest of the drive fails" type of way.
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May 13, 2017 16:24
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Paul MaudDib posted:AntLion modmic and Blue Snowball are the cheapest things worth recommending. On a $10 budget go to Best Buy and see what they have on the shelf. Probably won't find anything decent cheaper than ~$20 though. How is the Snowball? I've always wanted one of those cute little things.
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May 13, 2017 19:46
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Flipperwaldt posted:I think the idea is to have the most impotant data on both drives in case one of them goes out. That's how I'm reading that. It's actually I have 8TB of data to back up total, between three different computers. It breaks up as 2TB/2TB/4TB so 8TB is just a nice round number.
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May 14, 2017 04:17
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Arivia posted:How is the Snowball? I've always wanted one of those cute little things. One of my friends uses one. For skype/voip at least, it's pretty good - a lot better than his headset mic. His cat also really likes it and won't stop playing with it.
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May 14, 2017 09:14
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Geemer posted:What's that even going to accomplish? The fast majority of hard drive failures are all-or-nothing type deals caused by physical wear. Apologies, I didn't realise they'd literally just be stored away and not used at all. My thinking was literally as simple as "if one dies the other may still work" but I don't know much about long term storage so never mind 
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May 14, 2017 14:22
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i'm not sure where this would go so i'll dump it here i use headphones exclusively with my desktop, which is fine most of the time but if i run a game i start getting a slight buzzing sound in them this can be drowned out with music but its pretty annoying and its incredibly distracting again it only happens when i start up a game basically so I wanna know if a DAC would be worth investing in or if theres some other solution i am missing, because i think it's some kind of interference
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May 15, 2017 06:10
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RME posted:i'm not sure where this would go so i'll dump it here What's your motherboard and do you plug your headphones into the front or the back of your case? And yes, it's interference. Your computer is basically a big box of RF radiation that your poorly shielded onboard sound is picking up. I ask if you are using the front panel connectors because the cable running accross your case to the front panel is commonly the worst offender. If you are using the front panel connectors, moving to the back panel might fix the issue. A separate DAC/AMP will completely fix the issue, assuming you don't sit it next to a high powered router or anything.
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May 15, 2017 06:32
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BurritoJustice posted:What's your motherboard and do you plug your headphones into the front or the back of your case? asrock z170 pro 4s and yeah, i use it on the front panel so its almost certainly the cable running I could try running the wire differently but I don't mind investing in an okay DAC for it either, so any recommendations there would be good toio
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May 15, 2017 06:56
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Behringer UCA 202 is good for a cheap one.
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May 15, 2017 18:43
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apropos man posted:Behringer UCA 202 is good for a cheap one. I'll keep that in mind, thanks I'll try using it with the backports (so its directly into the mb instead of router through that cable, which probably is the root of the problem it sounds like) and see how that works out my headphones also have quarter-inch connector, but I imagine that's not too relevant for cheap/basic DAC stuff
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May 15, 2017 19:30
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