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OptimusWang posted:Oh drat, then I'm just too slow. I've used a brush for pulling little blurbs of wash out when it pools, but washing an entire model, then having time to go back and mess with the wash is faster than I can comfortably go right now. Vallejo glaze medium or just some drying retarder can give you more time to clean up. That said, buypainted does oil washes, not acrylic so he's cleaning up with mineral spirits afterwards, which you can basically do hours after going over the model with oil. So trying to replicate the method with acrylics or inks is gonna be frustrating.
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Jun 14, 2017 23:05
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I'm working on my first resin mini and it's still quite slick and shiny after giving it a good scrub with dish soap. Is that normal or do I need to wash it off better? Unrelated question: would Vallejo Thinner Medium work better than water for making glazes (I know they make a glaze medium but, thinner medium is what I've got)? I'm getting ok results with water, but there's a bit of a coffee stain effect around the edges that I have to clean up.
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Jun 14, 2017 23:33
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The Moon Monster posted:I'm working on my first resin mini and it's still quite slick and shiny after giving it a good scrub with dish soap. Is that normal or do I need to wash it off better? Scrub more. Shiny is mould release, most likely. If its just a very smooth surface (not impossible) very very lightly sand it with the highest grit sandpaper you can find. Just enough to make it slightly matte. For glazes you want acrylic medium to spread the pigment thinner.
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Jun 14, 2017 23:35
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Chalk up another one who just got babby's first airbrush and holy poo poo this was worth it just for the priming. I've got a Badger 105, and there are two things making me kind of worried. One, the thing hisses gently at all times. Doesn't leak paint, but there's some kind of air escaping. Two, there looks like there should be an o-ring where the nozzle cap meets the brush body. Am I missing a part, and should I be worried about it?
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Jun 15, 2017 00:35
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grassy gnoll posted:Chalk up another one who just got babby's first airbrush and holy poo poo this was worth it just for the priming. If you've got air hissing, it might be the connections itself, in which case use some thread seal tape on all your screw connections. As for the o-ring there, mine didn't come with one either and doesn't look like it needs it, so I wouldn't worry too much about it.
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Jun 15, 2017 01:44
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So my dad sells motorcycles, and because of this he bought one of those snap-together kits (I think that's what their called?) of a WWII german BMW R75. (Specifically it's the Tamiya B.M.W R75 with sidecar in 1:35 scale) He said the plan was to repaint it to be a the soviet knock-off the M-72 (I think), because my dad knows someone (a co-worker I think) that has one, and wants it painted orange, like the co-workers'. But my dad doesn't really have time, and he passed it to me, the other day, and so I think it'll do it as a late birthday gift (today's his birthday actually) I've never done these kits before. It mentions not having cement included, do I need some sort of cement/glue, or is that only recommended, or not really needed? Do I need to paint the pieces before I put it together, or could I just paint it after? (I don't really have the orange paint yet, and I'd rather he pick out the exact color himself). Do I need to prime it? Thanks!
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Jun 15, 2017 05:17
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I have a question: what's the paintscheme of the "new" Cadians? Speaking about this: I can do
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Jun 15, 2017 10:58
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Foolster41 posted:So my dad sells motorcycles, and because of this he bought one of those snap-together kits (I think that's what their called?) of a WWII german BMW R75. (Specifically it's the Tamiya B.M.W R75 with sidecar in 1:35 scale) I'd recommend using plastic glue to make sure the seams bond together. The plastic on most models are pretty flimsy compared to GW plastic so you want to make sure it is as stable as possible. The biggest thing I can recommend is figuring out how you want it to work. If you use oil based acrylics (like all those other heathen model builders) it comes with a whole set of its own rules and poo poo. Personally I've never liked traditional model paints. If you use water based, you definitely have an easier time doing separate parts in my opinion so you can shade/highlight your pieces. But to each their own and the usual caveats exist. Were it may project, I would definitely mirror how I do table top figures. Figure out what goes where and how easy it is to put together (test fitting) so you know your steps. When push comes to shove, you're going to default to the easiest route you can to get it down eventually.
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Jun 15, 2017 11:06
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I finally finished this dude.  
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Jun 15, 2017 13:39
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JcDent posted:I have a question: what's the paintscheme of the "new" Cadians? Speaking about this: Going by the painting guide Tunic: Zandri Dust -> Reikland Fleshshade -> Ushabti Bone -> Pallid Wych Flesh Armour: Straken Green -> Reikland Fleshshade -> Straken Green -> Ogryn Camo Khakis: Caliban Green -> Nuln Oil -> Caliban Green -> Loren Forest The stripe is Tau Light Ochre
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Jun 15, 2017 14:05
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Slimnoid posted:If you've got air hissing, it might be the connections itself, in which case use some thread seal tape on all your screw connections. It sounds like it's coming from inside the brush body, like where the trigger depresses the valve to start airflow. Still, I'll tape the thing up and see if that gets it. Thanks! JcDent posted:I can do In terms of the color or the actual stripe itself? You can kind of cheat out the color by putting down a thinner white stripe after you've done the pants, then painting your orange over it. It'll pop, especially compared to how murky it'd look if you did straight orange over green. If it's just the stripe itself, freehand that sucker. It's gonna go on wavy pants and it'll be too small to notice even if you do mess it up a little.
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Jun 15, 2017 14:18
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Cooked Auto posted:Going by the painting guide What painting guide would that be, kind diaznette sir?
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Jun 15, 2017 14:46
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JcDent posted:What painting guide would that be, kind diaznette sir? The GW How to paint guide in this case: https://www.games-workshop.com/en-SE/How-to-Paint-Citadel-Miniatures-Astra-Militarum-Interactive-iBook-Edition
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Jun 15, 2017 14:57
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Cooked Auto posted:The GW How to paint guide in this case: Thank you!
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Jun 15, 2017 15:03
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crime fighting hog posted:I finally finished this dude. That's a nice robut! Really clean, bright, well-defined color scheme with some nice contrast. (Also, I applaud your choice of disassembled correction-tape dispenser for the gear on the base.)
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Jun 15, 2017 15:32
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Dr. Gargunza posted:That's a nice robut! Really clean, bright, well-defined color scheme with some nice contrast. (Also, I applaud your choice of disassembled correction-tape dispenser for the gear on the base.) Thanks! Yeah I remember grabbing some random gears after busting some stuff apart. Works really well for the whole steampunk look for Warmachine.
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Jun 15, 2017 16:03
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Anyone know where to find basing material like these? I could use some colorful flowers on my bases. https://www.chicagoskirmishwargames.com/blog/2017/05/12/painted-temple-of-ro-kan-reinforcements-for-bushido/
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Jun 15, 2017 16:34
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Chill la Chill posted:Anyone know where to find basing material like these? I could use some colorful flowers on my bases. drat, seconding. That's some beautiful basing. The red flowers look like these ones. 2nd edit: Found it. It's from Green stuff world. Zuul the Cat fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Jun 15, 2017 |
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Jun 15, 2017 16:42
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Chill la Chill posted:Anyone know where to find basing material like these? I could use some colorful flowers on my bases. I bought this for making my own flowers http://www.modelscenerysupplies.co.uk/scatter-flock-ground-cover-trees-and-bushes/flowers/Blossom-Flowering-Fine-Turf Just sprinkle over glue for nice flowers.
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Jun 15, 2017 16:49
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 That is going to be perfect for my Emperors Children! I'm thinking about getting a bit of extra fine pink glitter powder for extra 
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Jun 15, 2017 19:41
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Well, purple is a powerful color after all. Electric Hobo posted:I bought this for making my own flowers http://www.modelscenerysupplies.co.uk/scatter-flock-ground-cover-trees-and-bushes/flowers/Blossom-Flowering-Fine-Turf Thank you. Any idea for the reeds?
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Jun 15, 2017 19:46
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Chill la Chill posted:Well, purple is a powerful color after all. The store i linked also has rubberised coconut fibres which probably works too. Just search for coir.
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Jun 15, 2017 21:23
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Geoff Zahn posted:Good call, thanks! If I'm looking at it right, a very watered down coat of nurgle's rot into the edges to soak it in between the rocks, and some earthshade wash over that on the edges to give it some contrast should make it look pretty good then? The edge of the river is faded earthshade. Maybe two brush blending to the shore will be good.
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Jun 15, 2017 23:24
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Any tips for doing facepaint? Think I want to do Ziggy Stardust -style lightning bolts on the faces of some of my dark eldar. As a disclaimer I have really shaky hands and very little freehand experience. I'm one of those guys who's physically incapable of painting pupils.
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Jun 15, 2017 23:26
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Hra Mormo posted:Any tips for doing facepaint? Think I want to do Ziggy Stardust -style lightning bolts on the faces of some of my dark eldar. As a disclaimer I have really shaky hands and very little freehand experience. I'm one of those guys who's physically incapable of painting pupils. Especially if you've got shaky hands, make sure you include a Cleanup stage into your painting plan - expect to make some mess, and figure out how you're going to clean it up afterward. Especially with something like this, bit easier to draw the rough shape and then tidy up the edges than try to get it perfect in one pass.
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Jun 15, 2017 23:36
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Gamers Grass make all of the above mentioned tuffs, flowers and scatter http://www.gamersgrass.com I can also highly, highly recommend MIG's range if you're after something special http://www.migjimenez.com/en/57-vegetation Yeast fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Jun 15, 2017 |
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Jun 15, 2017 23:42
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Chill la Chill posted:Thank you. Any idea for the reeds? Could be floral wire.
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Jun 16, 2017 01:57
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This is going to sound strange, but does anyone have experience using acrylics designed for canvas on minis. I expect we will really have to thin them, but I have a supply of them.
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Jun 16, 2017 04:07
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Maigius posted:This is going to sound strange, but does anyone have experience using acrylics designed for canvas on minis. I expect we will really have to thin them, but I have a supply of them. You probably won't get a very good result. The pigments in them are really huge and designed for Large Things; miniatures paints have extremely fine pigment which works better on miniatures, and is a lot of the reason why they're so much more expensive than regular acrylic paint.
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Jun 16, 2017 04:14
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Working on my new crazy  black-light fluorescent super-vibrant underwater mantis shrimp tyranids, not totally done but pretty dang pleased with how its looking so far   Not perfect but its only a 'gaunt and I'm testing different colors, also I still need to do the details on the gun and claws. But yeah, pretty happy with this scheme. I think I'm going to stick with it and paint a lot of dudes like this. 
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Jun 16, 2017 05:10
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Maigius posted:This is going to sound strange, but does anyone have experience using acrylics designed for canvas on minis. I expect we will really have to thin them, but I have a supply of them. There's one person on the Reaper forums who's a professional artist and mostly uses artist's acrylics. From what she's said, they're not bad, but they do need a lot more thinning and flow improver to really work properly. Definitely much better than, say, craft paints, which have very coarse pigments, but they're not really formulated for mini use either.
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Jun 16, 2017 05:59
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Continuing with my recent Ork Warbike efforts I just finished up a warboss on a warbike, with his "loyal" attack squig. 
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Jun 16, 2017 08:15
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Maigius posted:This is going to sound strange, but does anyone have experience using acrylics designed for canvas on minis. I expect we will really have to thin them, but I have a supply of them. I'm using blick brand and liquitex artist acrylics that I use on canvas. I've been happy with the results. They do need thinned and mixed on a palette. Can't go wrong just trying it out. Part of what you're paying for in GW paints are standardized shades so that your army is uniform and it also helps people who might not be artistically inclined can do a kind of paint by numbers approach and end up with a good looking army. I will try to get some pictures of some stuff I've worked on.
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Jun 16, 2017 16:27
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Current WIP I'm working on. It's going to be an undead wyrm for Kings of War.      I still have a few small details to add--surface wounds and a couple arrows and/or swords embedded in the chest, and do something more fancy with the base--but he's mostly done enough to show off.
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Jun 16, 2017 16:34
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 Painted my test model for my Tyranid scheme. I know I have parts that are not as clean as I want brush control wise but I'm new to painting these rounded edges everywhere and it takes more control than flat necron stuff. Looking for C&C about colors/techniques before moving it on to the rest of the army. It's definitely vibrant on purpose because I wanted some strong color but I'm wondering if it's too intense. My goal was bone, teal, and red-orange.
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Jun 16, 2017 18:08
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Ooooh, that Gargoyle looks nice!
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Jun 16, 2017 18:27
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Golden Daemon 2017 winners are up. There are a lot of GSC models this year.
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Jun 16, 2017 19:39
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Is Ushabti Bone different than Vallejo's Bonewhite, or identical to it? Curious as Bonewhite is slightly lighter than the old Bleached Bone, and not all of the new GW line matches the old despite what the conversion charts say. Reason I ask is, GW discontinued the main color (Rotting Flesh) I was using for power armor a few years ago. I am using the little bit I have left, but won't be able to finish my army. I was considering switching to Bleached Bone as it seems to be a great replacement color, although lighter, but that is also drying up. I have some fresh Bonewhite, but it seems to be a bit lighter in color. Fake James fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Jun 17, 2017 |
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Jun 16, 2017 23:25
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General Olloth posted:
What's the light blue color? I might steal that for an accent color on some of my spaceships.
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Jun 17, 2017 00:39
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Geoff Zahn posted:Is Ushabti Bone different than Vallejo's Bonewhite, or identical to it? Curious as Bonewhite is slightly lighter than the old Bleached Bone, and not all of the new GW line matches the old despite what the conversion charts say. I can't comment on the equivalency, but re: Rotting Flesh, I need that exact shade for my Steel Legion vehicles - there is no identical match from any other line, I have tried: Vallejo, Citadel, P3, Scale75, Reaper and Minitare. I ended up finding 5 unopened pots from a hobby store in New Zealand, and having them flown over. It's nuts.
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Jun 17, 2017 01:09
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