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Facebook Aunt posted:Any sign of the mom? Seems kinda late in the year for eggs. Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Jul 7, 2017 |
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Jul 7, 2017 22:14
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Wasabi the J posted:Moen positemp shower. I replaced the cartridge in troubleshooting. There's a dial thingy in some of those that needs to be calibrated, maybe.
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Jul 7, 2017 22:56
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Phanatic posted:Several Federal laws, depending on the species. Endangered Species Act and the Migratory Bird Act would be the two big ones. What if they're little bastards and all they do is poo poo on my car?
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Jul 8, 2017 00:18
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kid sinister posted:What if they're little bastards and all they do is poo poo on my car? Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Jul 8, 2017 |
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Jul 8, 2017 00:49
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kid sinister posted:What if they're little bastards and all they do is poo poo on my car? Shoot, shovel, and shut up.
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Jul 8, 2017 02:06
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DrBouvenstein posted:Because I used to "be a roofer" (I spent about 5 summers in high school and college working for my uncle's contracting business, mostly roofing) I've been roped into re-roofing my fiance's mom's place, a single-wide mobile home. Can't help you with the roofing questions, but you could look at Bagster for the haul away. In San Antonio, it was $5 bucks for the bag with $165 or something like that for them to come haul it away.
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Jul 8, 2017 14:08
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DrBouvenstein posted:I would prefer to do a metal roof, simply because ease of install (and ESPECIALLY not having to remove the old shingles) but I'm not sure she wants to spend the money, though I think if we factor EVERYTHING into account, metal might be break-even with shingles since she wouldn't have to pay for disposal of the old ones. I imagine we'd have to rent a roll off dumpster, because no way am I making God knows how many trips trying to haul the old ones away in just my little pickup...even if I rented a trailer that's still a lot of manually unloading heavy, heavy shingles. Renting a dumpster is generally pretty cheap. Around these parts it's $120/load for a regular dumpster and $530 for a roll-off w/ up to 7-tons in it. That seems like money well spent. For what you're describing you might be able to get away with a couple regular dumpster loads, and if you ask really nicely I bet you can convince them to drop it off directly under the roof.
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Jul 8, 2017 14:51
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jarito posted:Can't help you with the roofing questions, but you could look at Bagster for the haul away. In San Antonio, it was $5 bucks for the bag with $165 or something like that for them to come haul it away. Bagster is generally way more expensive then just getting a dumpster delivered.
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Jul 8, 2017 15:09
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So, my friend bought a house recently and she has foundation issues. Thing is, I've never seen this type of foundation. It's a poured concrete foundation around the outside, but then there is a layer of about 1ft of crushed granite which is held in by a sort of retaining wall of cinderblocks filled with crushed granite. I've made a lovely picture to show the layers. But basically what is happening is the east cinderblock "retaining wall" is starting to bow in, but the poured concrete does not look cracked, at least the parts you can see. She had a contractor tell her all she had to do was take apart the east side of the cinderblocks and put new crushed granite in.  What is this style called? Why is the granite and cinderblock there?
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Jul 8, 2017 20:46
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devicenull posted:Bagster is generally way more expensive then just getting a dumpster delivered. Bagster only comes out ahead if you're going to take a really long time to load up. When I looked into dumpsters, they started getting expensive after like 5 days. The other rub with Bagster is apparently the weight limits, which you have no really way of gauging as a user. The pro move is borrowing a trailer from your uncle and towing it directly to the landfill for $70/ton.
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Jul 8, 2017 23:03
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eddiewalker posted:The pro move is borrowing a trailer from your uncle and towing it directly to the landfill for $70/ton. Salvage while you're there and drive out at net zero 
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Jul 8, 2017 23:21
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Bad Munki posted:Salvage while you're there and drive out at net zero Our local place doesn't let public users back where any cool stuff gets dumped. Just gotta throw everything over a rail and they haul it back later 
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Jul 8, 2017 23:30
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If I'm installing network cable in a home through the wall should it be plenum or riser rated?
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Jul 10, 2017 00:48
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CharlesM posted:If I'm installing network cable in a home through the wall should it be plenum or riser rated? It doesn't really matter in a wall, but it's always safest to use plenum. The difference is in smoke spread if it burns. In your wall it likely makes no difference. Even in a proper plenum (i.e. the space above a drop ceiling in an office used for return air) it hardly matters until you have like lots of goddamn cable up there. I'd say the most important thing you should be looking at is if it's actually solid copper cable or that lovely, lovely coper clad aluminum. Ninja edit: also make sure if you are using proper solid copper that BOTH ends of ever run are terminated in a fixed place. Copper work hardens, so we're talking keystone jack or whatever at one side and a patch panel attached to something on the other. Then patch cables for the moveable/flexy parts on either side of that. Sorry if that's too much information, but I have no idea how much you know about structured cabling so I'm just gonna try to save you some frustration. (BUT IT ALL WORKED WHEN I INStALLED IT!) Motronic fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Jul 10, 2017 |
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Jul 10, 2017 00:59
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Motronic posted:It doesn't really matter in a wall, but it's always safest to use plenum. I don't know that much. But was looking at monoprice 6a which is all solid. I don't even know how to terminate stranded wire. I know the part about copper hardening. I was trying to replace an outlet here and the 70 year old copper just is too brittle! Also discovered the previous owner tried to install an additional outlet this way (and mixed up the wires!!!!) instead of just using the screws on the bottom of the outlet...:facepalm:.  Can't wait until I can get an electrician here. I have all three prong things running off a long extension cord from the only grounded outlets in the kitchen.
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Jul 10, 2017 01:12
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Do not use cat 6 unless you really need it. Unless you know what youa re doing you will spend a bunch of money to end up with something the same or inferior to cat 5e. Cat 6 is a pain in the rear end and not so much an upgrade form cat 5e but a "dammint, I actually need to run this in cat 6 because my very very expensive switches and host machines won't run at 10 Gigabit" Chances are good you don't really need 10-GigE everywhere in your home, or even own a 10-GigE capable device. You want future proofing? Maybe pull cat 6 cable and term it on 5e jacks/panels. But even that arguable, especially since you're pulling through existing which means you just installed pull cables for you next upgrade (6, some manner of fiber, something we haven't even heard of yet......)
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Jul 10, 2017 01:18
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Yeah you're probably right for now. I wonder how close we are to 10Gig consumer devices. I have a gigabit internet connection...
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Jul 10, 2017 01:27
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Unless you're running your cat5e through some really gentle conduit bends you're not going to be using it as a pull-through for fiber optic.
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Jul 10, 2017 01:29
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CharlesM posted:Also discovered the previous owner tried to install an additional outlet this way (and mixed up the wires!!!!) instead of just using the screws on the bottom of the outlet...:facepalm:. For what it's worth, btw, your house appears to use metal boxes, and hopefully then has conduit throughout. If that's the case, installing ground outlets (3 prong) is as simple as swapping out the old 2 prong outlets - Your conduit is your ground. This is making some assumptions about what's going on elsewhere in the house of course, and the outlets should all be tested for ground, but yeah, potentially good news. Slugworth fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Jul 10, 2017 |
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Jul 10, 2017 02:04
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Slugworth posted:That outlet appears to be wired properly - What's the issue? I mean, he gave himself way too long of pigtails for that small a box, but otherwise... Why would you run a second outlet like that and not the screws on the bottom of the outlet? Also, neutral + hot mixed up.
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Jul 10, 2017 02:08
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CharlesM posted:Why would you run a second outlet like that and not the screws on the bottom of the outlet? Also, neutral + hot mixed up.  To me, it looks like 2 hots tied together and 3 neutrals (old cloth wire gets filthy and gross, but it looks to me like it started life as white).As to doing it with pigtails vs not, eh, just a matter of how much slack you have with existing wires, how much space you have in the box, etc.
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Jul 10, 2017 02:22
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Slugworth posted:Just to clarify, when you say neutral and hot are mixed up, did you test that? If so, obviously I'm not gonna second guess you - I haven't put a multimeter on any of those wires I have a non-contact voltage tester. The original wires are all black. There are 3 of each including the pigtails. The ones going to the second outlet were mixed up.
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Jul 10, 2017 02:43
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CharlesM posted:I have a non-contact voltage tester. The original wires are all black. There are 3 of each including the pigtails. The ones going to the second outlet were mixed up. So those don't go to a switch? That was my first read.
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Jul 10, 2017 03:25
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Motronic posted:You want future proofing? Maybe pull cat 6 cable and term it on 5e jacks/panels. But even that arguable, especially since you're pulling through existing which means you just installed pull cables for you next upgrade (6, some manner of fiber, something we haven't even heard of yet......) minivanmegafun posted:Unless you're running your cat5e through some really gentle conduit bends you're not going to be using it as a pull-through for fiber optic. This is why I'm running cat 7a and terminating it to 5e sockets (plus grounding on the panels). The routes through the house are too windy and often too small for conduit so a lot of the cables are getting tacked in place. They're not getting pulled under any circumstances. The cost difference really was minimal.
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Jul 10, 2017 07:56
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Wasabi the J posted:Moen positemp shower. I replaced the cartridge in troubleshooting. Shower valves usually have a cartridge which makes up the stem. The cartridge is machined such that it allows more and more hot water from the hot water side as you turn the valve handle. When you install them, there's a particular valve position the manufacturer needs it to be at in order for the cartridge to be in the correct orientation. (fully hot, fully cold midway, etc) It sounds like your cartridge may have been installed wrong. The other possibilities are that the handle is installed wrong - or that the cartridge is just busted. Another thing to check is the valve handle stop, which prevents you from turning too far on the hot side. One thing you should do is contact the manufacturer. A lot of them will make good on their warranty's and send you free replacement parts or repair tools. I'm not sure how old the valve is, but if it's under 15 years you can usually get some goodies from them. Edit: just saw that you said your replaced the cartridge - double check to make sure you have it in the correct orientation with regards to the valve handle.
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Jul 10, 2017 12:15
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minivanmegafun posted:Unless you're running your cat5e through some really gentle conduit bends you're not going to be using it as a pull-through for fiber optic. It's your pull cable for 1/2" or 3/4" flexible conduit, which you then pull your fiber through. You obviously never want to pull non-reinforced indoor fiber through anything less than flex conduit. I seriously doubt fiber is going to be a viable home gamer in-wall cabling option at any point in the future though. I do this crap for a living and have fiber in exactly one place: between my house and an outbuilding. I don't really see the benefit other than for electrical decoupling to a place with a separate service/ground.
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Jul 10, 2017 13:14
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Motronic posted:Do not use cat 6 unless you really need it. MC Jaded Burnout posted:This is why I'm running cat 7a and terminating it to 5e sockets (plus grounding on the panels). The routes through the house are too windy and often too small for conduit so a lot of the cables are getting tacked in place. They're not getting pulled under any circumstances. So to piggy back on this, what's recommended for a person trying to wire their house for networking? I'd hate to run cat 5e everywhere and then have to replace it all in 10 years. If I'm reading this right, is the only downside to higher grades of Ethernet the fact that the shield is a pain in the rear end to terminate? Or are there other issues that make it a hassle? Also, any advice for retro-fitting network in to a house? Ours was built in 1999, so we have phone jacks everywhere connected via Cat 5. However, they're all daisy chained together, so unless I can get tiny 3-port switches installed inside all the boxes and use PoE to power them, I'm stuck running new lines. My tentative plan would be to run everything up to a patch panel in the attic, then I dunno from there. My main concern is getting everything to one spot. I haven't thought it through completely yet, just something I'm planning for in the future some time. I should be able to get to MOST of the old jacks by drilling a hole from either the attic or the crawl space, so it's not unrealistic for me to do this without tearing up walls. The only issue would be to get from the crawl space up to the attic, and then from the service entrance to the attic.
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Jul 10, 2017 14:57
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DaveSauce posted:So to piggy back on this, what's recommended for a person trying to wire their house for networking? I'd hate to run cat 5e everywhere and then have to replace it all in 10 years. Cat5e will run gigabit over shortish distances, just you might get a bit more interference and crosstalk. Don't have a patch panel somewhere dumb, run them all to somewhere your internet comes into your house and you're also fine having a switch.
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Jul 10, 2017 15:35
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DaveSauce posted:So to piggy back on this, what's recommended for a person trying to wire their house for networking? I'd hate to run cat 5e everywhere and then have to replace it all in 10 years. Lookup the cost spread between a spool of 5e, 6, and 7. I think 6 is around double the price of 5e for solid copper, so ~$120 vs $60 for a box. For my own home I would pull 5e. The active electronics are my limiting factor, and while those keep getting cheaper I'm not going to upgrade "just because." Spookydonut posted:Cat5e will run gigabit over shortish distances, just you might get a bit more interference and crosstalk. 100 Meters. "Shortish" indeed.
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Jul 10, 2017 15:40
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Speaking of Cat5e, how far do they have to be from electrical wire so they aren't interfered with?
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Jul 10, 2017 16:13
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I think it's more of an issue of running parallel. Like if you have a cat5e run cross a 120VAC line, it's not gonna matter. That doesn't really answer your question but it might be relevant to your application.
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Jul 10, 2017 16:26
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You could wrap Ethernet around mains cable and it generally wouldn't care. It's not like audio cable where 60hz is within audible range. Shielded Ethernet becomes a concern around noisy things like arcing motors. I think code generally dictates 18" of separation or separate raceways, but code is about safety, not about data speed.
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Jul 10, 2017 16:33
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I have a house built in the early 1900's, so some of the wiring is knob&tube and some newer wiring as well. I'd love to run the cat5e parallel to the wiring just to make getting it through the house easier, but I heard that there is likely to be too much interference.
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Jul 10, 2017 16:35
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Doctor Butts posted:I have a house built in the early 1900's, so some of the wiring is knob&tube and some newer wiring as well. I'd love to run the cat5e parallel to the wiring just to make getting it through the house easier, but I heard that there is likely to be too much interference. The stuff you need to worry about are high frequency things like fluorescent lights. That being said, don't pull it parallel to knob & tube. In fact, why not pull some Romex down along side it and abandon the knob & tube? You're already doing the hard part.
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Jul 10, 2017 16:57
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Or get shielded instead of utp
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Jul 10, 2017 17:23
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DaveSauce posted:So to piggy back on this, what's recommended for a person trying to wire their house for networking? I'd hate to run cat 5e everywhere and then have to replace it all in 10 years. Don't necessarily follow my example of using 7a, it's almost certainly overkill but I'm doing it while literally every wall (covering) and ceiling has been ripped out and the cost difference, well, from my supplier (RS components in the UK) 500m of F/UTP or S/FTP 5e is nearly twice the price of 500m of S/FTP 7a. (I'm not sure why grey 7a is half the price of blue 7a on that site but whatever). I've wound up using 700m in my house so I had to buy two reels, even then it was a fairly small line item on the whole renovation. Running the cable so far has been no worse than solid core cat 5. Terminating 7a properly costs a loving fortune and 6a is not much better, hence me deciding to terminate to 5e for now. Grounding at the patch panel end is going to be a little annoying but nothing serious, I've just asked the sparkies to add a dedicated ground off the power supply so I can attach it to the comms cabinet. I've tried to keep the curves gentle but gently caress knows if it makes even a slightest bit of difference:   tbh I'm terrified there'll be a break somewhere after install and checking each core of each line is going to be a pain in the rear end to do solo. Comparing prices is probably the wisest move. A lot of people say don't bother with 6 which I don't entirely agree with, but I can deffo see their perspective on 7 since 7a hasn't been fully adopted yet and might get superseded by 8. I don't know all the details on this bit.
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Jul 10, 2017 18:05
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Motronic posted:It's your pull cable for 1/2" or 3/4" flexible conduit, which you then pull your fiber through. You obviously never want to pull non-reinforced indoor fiber through anything less than flex conduit. What are the costs of doing a fiber link like that now, anyway? I've seen it to connect the bridge of a boat to the engine room (15m run or so) but that's about the smallest fiber setup I've ever run into.
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Jul 10, 2017 19:42
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Hi, I just put down some pressure treated decking, and I'm in the process of sanding and sealing it. I've sanded, and have just now cleaned it off. It has green streaks all through it from the pressure-treating process, and I believe they fade with time, but I'm not sure if they will fade once I've sealed it with this: http://www.perfectwoodstains.ca/view-product/cetol-srd-re Which states that it has 'Excellent UV Protection'.   The green doesn't look too noticeable in these pictures but I just hosed it down, and the green stands out like crazy. Definitely don't want it to look like that once it's sealed. Thanks for the advice!
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Jul 10, 2017 20:50
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MC Jaded Burnout posted:tbh I'm terrified there'll be a break somewhere after install and checking each core of each line is going to be a pain in the rear end to do solo. They make cheap plugin testers that do just this. You put your rj-45 into both ends of the tester and it shows you pinout. Missing lines are broken conductors. $500 for Fluke, $20 for cheap, and $6 for crap. shovelbum posted:What are the costs of doing a fiber link like that now, anyway? I've seen it to connect the bridge of a boat to the engine room (15m run or so) but that's about the smallest fiber setup I've ever run into. Pre-termed duplex LC-LC 62.5/125 multimode fiber from a major distributor at full retail is going to be around $5/meter. (Double that for short cables.) Add in another $50/side (tops) for 550m SFP gig optics, plus whatever your switch costs off ebay. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Jul 10, 2017 |
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Jul 10, 2017 21:41
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DavidAlltheTime posted:Hi, Use BEHR no. 63 deck cleaner or equivalent, it will clean, remove mildew, tannin, and any mill glaze still left. It also brightens it to a more uniform color. Their stain is garbage, but the no. 63 works well.
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Jul 10, 2017 23:09
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