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Google results show that it's typically normal for a Diesel engine car to smell a bit "burny" when it's new. I pulled up to a Burgerking and asked the dude working the drivethru if he could smell a burnt clutch, and he said yeah he could, then he asked if it was diesel and I said yes, so he told me not to have a heartattack just yet. It's probably just the breaking in period, then he threw in extra fries to make me feel better. aaahhhh PS: I think it's definitely a lovely clutch. I did what Elsa told me to do: put it in 5th gear, got it to 2000RPM and then floored it. It slipped like poo poo. Got it booked in for a service this Wednesday and I'm gonna ask them if I can be present whilst they work on the car, I'm also gonna let the Head Technician drive the car instead of me so he can straight up feel what I'm talking about.
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Jul 10, 2017 17:40
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Neon Belly posted:Question about selling a car: 0toShifty posted:Before you give up and donate it - the problem with your car sounds more like a battery terminal issue to me. The Hyundais from around that time had rather strange terminals that would corrode internally. They look fine on the outside but they won't tighten properly, and the loose connection can cause misdiagnosis as bad battery/alternator. Terminals are cheap. Before I even read 0tS's reply, I was thinking bad ground. Check both battery terminals. If there's a bunch of crud on either one, take a solution of baking soda and water(lots of soda, you can even use an over-saturated paste,) and a stiff-bristle (preferably wire, but a toothbrush will work too) brush, and clean the battery terminals and the cable terminals. Rinse with fresh water, and dry em off a bit before you bolt everything back together. It might be another issue, (I've seen battery ground cables corrode at the other end as well, which is a PITA,) but that's a nearly-free troubleshooting step.
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Jul 10, 2017 17:59
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Are straight sixes anywhere near as good as people say they are? I get the feeling that it's just a combination of hate against lazy GM and Chrysler FWD V6's, and also a weird cargo-cult built around the Supra and high performance BMW's
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Jul 10, 2017 18:03
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22 Eargesplitten posted:1999 Subaru Impreza. I get a gurgling noise after I turn off my car when parked facing downhill. Any ideas? No white smoke or oil milkshake. That reminds me I need to burp my heater core and replace my blend door motors. The heater core gargles occasionally ever since I had my timing chains replaced, but I can never get it to do it when I take it into the dealership. Whatever, I guess that's what I get for whimping out and paying someone else to deal with it. I might as well take the door off and figure out why my passenger side speaker cuts out occasionally, while I'm at it. Oh yeah and while I'm in there, cabin air filter. And since I've got the wrenches out, maybe time for new brakes. Goddamn. If you give a mouse a cookie... GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Jul 10, 2017 |
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Jul 10, 2017 18:07
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:That reminds me I need to burp my heater core and replace my blend door motors. The heater core gargles occasionally ever since I had my timing chains replaced, but I can never get it to do it when I take it into the dealership. Whatever, I guess that's what I get for whimping out and paying someone else to deal with it. Just curious, did you have symptoms of needing to replace your timing chain or was it 100% pre-emptive, or does your specific model have a replacement interval for it?
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Jul 10, 2017 18:08
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The Door Frame posted:Are straight sixes anywhere near as good as people say they are? I get the feeling that it's just a combination of hate against lazy GM and Chrysler FWD V6's, and also a weird cargo-cult built around the Supra and high performance BMW's They sound great and they're naturally balanced. They have a reputation for reliability thanks to a number of factory-overbuilt engines over the years, and a few of those can also be easily modified to stupid levels of horsepower.
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Jul 10, 2017 18:14
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Michael Scott posted:Just curious, did you have symptoms of needing to replace your timing chain or was it 100% pre-emptive, or does your specific model have a replacement interval for it? WELLLLLLLLLL funny story... Ford put out a service bulletin that addresses an issue with the timing chain. TSB 14-0194. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wt3ac_H8wL0 I started to notice my truck didn't feel quite right and took it to the dealership. They said nothing was wrong. About a month later I heard the clacking noise at around 2000RPM and KNEW something was wrong. I did some internet digging and found out about the timing chain problem for this specific model and year ford (2011 F150 Ecoboost 3.5l) I was pretty sure that this was the problem so I drove it to the dealer since it only had like 48,000 miles on it. The check engine light came on halfway there. Dealer checked it out extensively and determined that it was the timing chain. However, by this time the truck was 2 weeks out of warranty. I was loving livid. I called Ford customer service, and basically they told me to go gently caress myself with a rusty sway bar. I went back to the dealership and they tried to go through Ford Corp to see if there was any sort of good faith/ good will option for getting it fixed. They were shut down too. They wouldn't even give me the $50 timing chain as a gesture. They said they didn't have the wherewithal to help. MOTHERFUCKERS! YOU CAN'T AFFORD TO GIVE ME A $50 TIMING CHAIN TO KEEP ME HAPPY? The dealership did however do everything they could to help me out. Knock down labor costs, give me parts at cost, etc... It still cost me well over 2 grand. I'm still sour and I think this might be my last Ford.
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Jul 10, 2017 18:20
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Will there be a record of you contacting the dealership before the warranty ran out? Can you sue them?
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Jul 10, 2017 18:25
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I had an issue with my Fiesta just out of warranty and the dealer was no help, the 800 number was useless, based in the Phillipines or wherever, and a total waste of time. I don't know if you'll find that another car company will be friendlier just out-of-warranty, goodwill repairs are really hard to come by it seems.
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Jul 10, 2017 18:30
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Q8ee posted:PS: I think it's definitely a lovely clutch. I did what Elsa told me to do: put it in 5th gear, got it to 2000RPM and then floored it. It slipped like poo poo. Got it booked in for a service this Wednesday and I'm gonna ask them if I can be present whilst they work on the car, I'm also gonna let the Head Technician drive the car instead of me so he can straight up feel what I'm talking about.
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Jul 10, 2017 18:32
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I'm still building a liquid cooling system for the Tesla batteries in my electric car conversion, and the pump/tubing/valves I'm using are all NPT 3/4" I stumbled on a car radiator with a 3/4" NPT threaded inlet/outlet: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330862320814 $200 is pricier than most new radiators on eBay (I can get a radiator + fan for $80 http://www.ebay.com/itm/401255022245 ) but this seems like it might be higher quality, and it saves me from having to buy more plumbing adapters. Does the first radiator I linked seem like a good value? Aside from that one model of radiator, the only others I can find that are 3/4 NPT thread are from Summit Racing and start at $450: https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/radiators/inlet-size/3-4-in-npt?SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Ascending
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Jul 10, 2017 18:40
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:WELLLLLLLLLL funny story... Oh, hey, BMW also hosed me in a similar way. gently caress companies that pull this poo poo.
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Jul 10, 2017 18:41
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IOwnCalculus posted:They sound great and they're naturally balanced. They have a reputation for reliability thanks to a number of factory-overbuilt engines over the years, and a few of those can also be easily modified to stupid levels of horsepower. So basically, their biggest strengths are simplicity and the amount of room in their engine bay?
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Jul 10, 2017 18:43
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0toShifty posted:Before you give up and donate it - the problem with your car sounds more like a battery terminal issue to me. The Hyundais from around that time had rather strange terminals that would corrode internally. They look fine on the outside but they won't tighten properly, and the loose connection can cause misdiagnosis as bad battery/alternator. Terminals are cheap. MrYenko posted:Before I even read 0tS's reply, I was thinking bad ground. Check both battery terminals. If there's a bunch of crud on either one, take a solution of baking soda and water(lots of soda, you can even use an over-saturated paste,) and a stiff-bristle (preferably wire, but a toothbrush will work too) brush, and clean the battery terminals and the cable terminals. Rinse with fresh water, and dry em off a bit before you bolt everything back together. Thanks for the tips. I'll buy some baking soda tonight and give it a look.
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Jul 10, 2017 18:44
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spankmeister posted:Will there be a record of you contacting the dealership before the warranty ran out? Can you sue them? There is a record of them saying "there's no indication that it is a timing chain problem." Even if it was, Ford has no obligation to replace it since the P code did not get thrown during the warranty period. Michael Scott posted:I had an issue with my Fiesta just out of warranty and the dealer was no help, the 800 number was useless, based in the Phillipines or wherever, and a total waste of time. How about I just buy a truck from Toyota that doesn't do this poo poo to me? FFS it's a goddamn timing chain and you're not willing to proactively fix this in the hopes that everyone just grenades their motors and buys new trucks? 
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Jul 10, 2017 19:03
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:There is a record of them saying "there's no indication that it is a timing chain problem." Just because the P code didn't get thrown doesn't mean the chain is working properly right? If you interacted with them about this issue before the warranty was up, I'd be taking them to small claims court for $2k plus lost work time.
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Jul 10, 2017 19:36
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So I've got a 2005 Mountaineer AWD that I recently finished doing some work on at home. I had new rear wheel bearings pressed in and replaced the toe links in the back because I tore the originals up getting them off the knuckle. I also ended up replacing the half shaft on the drivers side since it separated when I was removing the axle from the knuckle. I got everything buttoned up on it and took it for a test drive up the street and I hear a repetitive "thumping" sound in the back, almost like a tire's out of balance or something. I also have a pretty bad negative camber on both rear wheels. I would think that was from bad ball joints, but I had just replaced those last year (less than 10k miles), and it was fine before I started the work. My thought is that I just need an alignment and to have the tires balanced and rotated and it'll fix all of it, but does anything else come to mind on this that I should check before I get it on the road? The tires have about 5k miles on them, so I wouldn't think they would be that out of balance, but maybe that's all it is.
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Jul 10, 2017 20:25
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The Door Frame posted:So basically, their biggest strengths are simplicity and the amount of room in their engine bay? More power than a four, fewer parts than a V6. Amount of room is a neutral though because they're very long. If you're making a car that is available in a six cylinder and any other number of cylinders that isn't 12 or more, you're going to have to make sure the engine bay is long enough to fit the I6. Whereas a "smaller" engine bay will still fit either an I4 or a V6, or a V6/V8. The I6 being narrower than a V6 will certainly make most underhood jobs nicer, but automakers don't really care about that. This is why the I6 is pretty much dead for passenger vehicles, outside of ze Germans and Cummins.
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Jul 10, 2017 20:39
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Michael Scott posted:Just because the P code didn't get thrown doesn't mean the chain is working properly right? If you interacted with them about this issue before the warranty was up, I'd be taking them to small claims court for $2k plus lost work time. In the TSB the engine has to throw a P code to be recommended for the timing chain replacement. I caught it early, luckily, but even then they wouldn't have touched it until the code was thrown. The code my engine threw was related, but not the one shown in the TSB so even if it was still under warranty they likely would still not have replaced it immediately. I probably would have taken them to small claims court but I didn't feel it was worth my time. It's easier just to bitch about it on the internet and never buy another Ford.
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Jul 10, 2017 21:12
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I need to put my 94 Camry up on the lift one last time before I sell it. The problem is that last time I did, the standard jack points on the pinch welds were getting pretty crunchy from all the rust. So can anyone suggest some good alternate points? I'll be using a basic two post lift with the big rubber pads on the arms. The rear. Red is the jack point, green is the suspension mount that looked pretty sturdy to me.  The front. Red is the jack point again. I haven't really figured out an alternate. That frame rail seems to be the obvious choice, but it doesn't feel that strong.
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Jul 10, 2017 22:52
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Lower control arms would be my choice if the pinch welds are too far gone. If you can't reach the LCAs with your lift, then you may be stuck using the frame rails. Those don't look that bad to me, personally, but I don't have a lift either.
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Jul 10, 2017 23:00
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The Door Frame posted:Are straight sixes anywhere near as good as people say they are? I get the feeling that it's just a combination of hate against lazy GM and Chrysler FWD V6's, and also a weird cargo-cult built around the Supra and high performance BMW's You can't kill a Mopar Slant 6. At least: not easily. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Jul 11, 2017 |
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Jul 11, 2017 02:04
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The farmboy I bought my dodge off of said he had the slant 6 version of it and after all the seals had gone and it was burning gallons of oil they ended up just dumping used deep fryer oil in there and then gave up and left it in a field when it wouldn't die.
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Jul 11, 2017 02:17
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Lower control arms would be my choice if the pinch welds are too far gone. I can probably get away with the front ones. The back ones started to collapse when I raised the lift. The picture doesn't really show the gaping rust hole next to them.
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Jul 11, 2017 02:19
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PainterofCrap posted:You can't kill a Mopar Slant 6. At least: not easily. Good god, I have a boner for inline sixes, and Slant sixes were the poo poo. Designed to be made from aluminum and built of Iron. But yeah, Inherent balance, you would have to deliberately engineer an I6 to be unbalanced. The balance in itself really helps with reliability, Smooth engines don't shake themselves apart.
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Jul 11, 2017 02:43
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:
It's not 1993 anymore.
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Jul 11, 2017 03:18
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PainterofCrap posted:You can't kill a Mopar Slant 6. At least: not easily. Same for the AMC 4.2/4.0 and the Ford 4.9
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Jul 11, 2017 04:25
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wesleywillis posted:Good god, I have a boner for inline sixes, and Slant sixes were the poo poo. Designed to be made from aluminum and built of Iron. Eh, that's not as true as you think it is. Straight six engines still have secondary moments, though they are slight compared to straight fours. The important parts of an engine don't care about engine balance. The moments may cancel out and give the appearance of smooth running to humans, but the pistons are still constantly accelerating, connecting rods rattling around, crank flexing, etc. Balance has little to do with reliability. Many straight six engines are over engineered, simply because they could be, as they tended to be an option in vehicles with a heavier v8. That's it, there is no magic balance/reliability relationship. Having a main bearing between every crank throw and a throw for every piston makes for a strong engine, but it's also heavy.
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Jul 11, 2017 13:16
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There is a really quality glove brand for automotive work -- I think they are disposable? I'm making a safety gear order for my crew and I remember wanting to order these but I can't recall the make now...any recommendations?
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Jul 11, 2017 14:47
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Could someone please point me to the diesel thread?
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Jul 11, 2017 21:33
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You all have helped me out a lot in the past figuring out stupid poo poo, and I really appreciate it. My current issue is really throwing me for a loop, maybe one of you can make heads or tails of it. I pulled my winter beater, a 2001 Subaru Outback, 2.5L 4cyl, out of the shed (summer car is in the shop). It was having some trouble turning over. I figured it was just the battery sitting for a few months, so I jumped it. It would start up and idle just fine for any amount of time, but putting it into gear or turning on accessories would stop the engine cold, and often reset the clock. Weirdest thing was that this would happen even if the jumper cables were still attached. So, I thought maybe something was wrong with the battery cable terminals, and started taking them apart to clean them — they were pretty gnarly. The battery cables themselves were heavily corroded, too. I had to cut six or eight inches up into the insulation to find bright copper. Put on some of these terminal replacments that have leads to make up for the shorter cables. Car started up with a little bit of hesitation after replacing the terminals. Drove it around a few block and the battery light came on, then the brake, then the ABS. Figured that the battery was pretty far gone from all the attempted starts, so I parked it to mess around the next day. Subsequent morning there was no charge on the battery at all — multimeter showed millivolts. So deciding that it was a bad battery after all, in addition to the cables, I went out and got a new battery. Drove around with it all day just fine, although at the end of the day (when it got dark) I noticed that the battery light on the dash was flickering dimly, but the headlights were working just fine, as was the radio. Next morning, battery was completely dead again. I'm perplexed as to what to start testing to figure out if there's some kind of phantom draw, or a bad connection, or a bad alternator, or what. I have a multimeter and some tools but not a lot of skill. Where would you start, and what order of stuff would you check?
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Jul 11, 2017 21:47
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So I have a 2011 Ford Focus SE, 2.0L 4cyl that has been giving me several issues over the last few months, which might be related. When idling, the RPMs periodically drop, such that if it was a manual I'd be afraid of it stalling out. I recently tried to recharge the A/C (which is barely cold, even on full blast) with R-134a and the gauge showed a spike in pressure every time this happened; after emptying the can, the A/C remained weak. The last one is that when I apply the brakes, rather than a smooth decrease in speed, the car feels very jerky, and it's worse the harder you brake. Could some type of leak in one of the systems cause these issues? I'm very much not mechanically inclined, unfortunately.
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Jul 11, 2017 22:31
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bennyfactor posted:You all have helped me out a lot in the past figuring out stupid poo poo, and I really appreciate it. My current issue is really throwing me for a loop, maybe one of you can make heads or tails of it. I think this sums it up well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGB6ZEjGm7Q
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Jul 11, 2017 22:55
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I have a 2006 jeep wrangler stock. Recently I started noticing a loud clunk from the right front end when in reverse and braking while the wheel is turned, like backing out of a parking space. Also a similar sound over bumps but not anywhere as loud. From what I read it's probably the control arm(s), sway bar links, a loose bolt somewhere, or bushings that are worn(which my sway bar bushings are). Took it too a mechanic. He checked and found nothing significant. He said he sprayed the control arm with lube and the sound went away They said if the sound doesn't come back then replace the control arm. But did not specify what to do if it does. I tried to clarify but the receptionist had no idea. Now here's my stupid question: why would I change them if it doesn't come back? It would seem like it makes more sense to change if it does come back instead.
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Jul 12, 2017 00:27
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Virginia Slams posted:I have a 2006 jeep wrangler stock. Recently I started noticing a loud clunk from the right front end when in reverse and braking while the wheel is turned, like backing out of a parking space. Also a similar sound over bumps but not anywhere as loud. If over the next few days/weeks the sound doesn't come back it means the grease temporarily "fixed" (read: silenced) the control arm, indicating it was indeed the cause of the problem. If the sound comes back very soon take it back, it's likely another component making the sound.
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Jul 12, 2017 00:45
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Breakfast Feud posted:If over the next few days/weeks the sound doesn't come back it means the grease temporarily "fixed" (read: silenced) the control arm, indicating it was indeed the cause of the problem. If the sound comes back very soon take it back, it's likely another component making the sound. I appreciate the reply, I somewhat figured that was the reasoning. It just seemed strange to me to not use any specifics like whether it was the upper or lower control arms and if there was some sort of rough time frame I should be expecting the noise to return if it did.
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Jul 12, 2017 03:43
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I'm about to inherit a 66 Datsun roadster that I need to ship from Seattle, WA to Des Moines, IA. Any specifically goon-recommended transport companies? I've never shipped a car before so I don't have much of a baseline here.
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Jul 12, 2017 04:06
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Bad Munki posted:I'm about to inherit a 66 Datsun roadster that I need to ship from Seattle, WA to Des Moines, IA. Any specifically goon-recommended transport companies? I've never shipped a car before so I don't have much of a baseline here. Since transport companies are highly regional, the only recommendation I've heard is this site: http://www.uship.com/vehicles/
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Jul 12, 2017 04:13
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Two questions about our 2014 Versa Note: 1: I've noticed lately a strong smell like new cheap leather coming out of the vents when I start the car up. Doesn't seem to matter what temperature it's set at or whether or not AC is on. The smell goes away after a few minutes. I recently lost my job so it's not being driven every day like it used to be (now it's more like three times a week) and the appearance of the smell roughly coincided with that. Could it just be the volatolites from the vent system plastics stagnating from sitting in the garage for several days between uses? 2: The other day we noticed a bunch of black gunk on the bottom of the rear passenger door. I'm not 100% sure what it was but it looked and felt like just everyday grease. Don't know how long it was there for or where it came from. I brought it to one of those DIY car wash places today and really sprayed the spot with soap and scrubbed the fucker quite a lot with the foam brush. Most of it came off but there's still a noticable amount of residue left over (turns my fingertip completely black when I rub it). What the hell can I do to get rid of that last bit of it? The stuff is a little gritty so I'm concerned trying to scrub it with a rag will leave scuffs on the paint or something. Or am I overthinking this and should just go back to the car wash and foam brush the poo poo out of it again until it's gone?
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Jul 12, 2017 05:24
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Mak0rz posted:Two questions about our 2014 Versa Note: For 2, a really soaked rag and soap will be fine. As long as it's super wet you won't do any damage to the paint, just don't use a ton of force. Car paint is tough. For 1, personally I wouldn't let it worry you unless you experience performance issues with the HVAC. It does have weird smells sometimes that go away after a minute or two. Condensation from dew if your area is humid?  These kinds of things are the most effective fresheners I have found for a car. It'll make it smell real nice in a subtle way and they last for awhile. Can be found in any auto section if you've never tried them before. Some people frown upon them because they can be used to cover up underlying moisture/water leak issues in cars, so make sure there's not some terrible problem that's causing your smell first. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Jul 12, 2017 |
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Jul 12, 2017 06:57
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