|
Alereon posted:I don't think you can install without the backplate, as mounting is kind of a "sandwich" with the front heatsink and backplate squeezing the card. Ah, crap, that makes sense. Guess fan replacement day is a total bust, then. I tried swapping out the CPU fan too, but I only bought a fan and it turns out my fan and heatsink are permanently stuck together as a single unit. Thanks for the quick response!
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2017 05:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 13:03 |
|
|
So I finally got around to installing HWInfo64 and checking my temps after some gaming (a couple hours of WoW.) My GTX1070 got to 70c and my i5-7600K got to 75c. Ambient temperature was the high 20s, I'd guess. Should I be worried about these temperatures? The fan curve on everything is pretty low, so I could turn it up if need be. This is in a Fractal Define R5 with just the default case fans.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2017 16:28
|
|
|
Arivia posted:So I finally got around to installing HWInfo64 and checking my temps after some gaming (a couple hours of WoW.) My GTX1070 got to 70c and my i5-7600K got to 75c. Ambient temperature was the high 20s, I'd guess. Should I be worried about these temperatures? The fan curve on everything is pretty low, so I could turn it up if need be. This is in a Fractal Define R5 with just the default case fans.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2017 17:27
|
|
|
Alereon posted:No that's fine. This is kinda relevant to my question: I'm on a gaming pc for the first time basically ever, and I wanna make sure I'm not overheating (I'm in a warm-ish room and can tell this box warms up the surrounding air a bit as it is). This quoted post mentions HWInfo64, I assume this is a temp checking program? If so, where should I grab it from? I'm using the included software of my pre-built (yeah, yeah, I know) to check temps, but I have no idea whether that's accurate or not. Also, what temperatures are considered safe for modern hardware? I'm running a new i7 and a 1070, so I assume things will get warm and that they're built to operate at high temps, but I'm not sure when I should actually worry and when to ignore that my legs are getting a little warmer. Just playing PUBG for about half an hour saw my temps get up to 50+c, which I guess is fine, but this weekend I'll finally have a chance to stretch this thing's legs with some long play sessions and would like to keep an eye on it to make sure my new toy is working properly. Thanks. (My first two games of PUBG saw me running around and dying in the mid-50s without killing anybody  . Looking forward to grouping up with friends this weekend.)
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2017 05:07
|
|
|
80°C is "pretty warm" and 90°C is "hot". Lower temperatures are better for the chips and all surrounding components but people tend to forget that identical parts are often specified to run at 100°C in badly cooled laptops.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2017 07:30
|
|
|
Just google hwinfo64, should be the first hit, from cpuid. It's always a good idea to run at least two monitoring apps for cross-checking purposes. Also yeah less than 60c running a game like that is just peachy, especially if you didn't buy a fancy aftermarket cooler.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2017 01:54
|
|
|
Can I use these with my UPS: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013H8VIEI The guide says quote:4. Plug the UPS into a 2 pole, 3 wire grounding receptacle (wall outlet). Make sure the wall branch outlet is protected by a fuse or circuit breaker and does not service equipment with large electrical demands (e.g. refrigerator, copier, etc...). The warranty prohibits the use of extension cords, outlet strips, and surge strips. but I presume this is only for connecting the UPS into the wall socket, and doesn't cause an issue connecting my items to the unit itself? My wall warts are giving me a nightmare as they're blocking half the sockets.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2017 23:54
|
|
|
EL BROMANCE posted:Can I use these with my UPS: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013H8VIEI Yeah, those are great for putting things with transformers into the tightly bunched sockets on an UPS or surge suppressor. I use them a lot.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2017 01:13
|
|
|
Brill, thanks. Thought it'd be OK but never a bad thing to double check!
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2017 01:18
|
|
|
I would note that those are only 18 gauge cables, which is rather thin as electrical wire goes. I mean it'll work to at least 600W or so and it is a really short cable, but I worry about having thin cables like that around because people have a way of forgetting and using them for high-draw devices. "Ugh this AC won't fit due to the right-angle plug, good thing I've got this one-foot extension!" *sizzle*
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2017 01:52
|
|
|
Interesting, I use one of those to turn my Kill-a-Watt into a dongle so that it doesn't block power strips. I hadn't paid any attention to the gauge before but will have to keep in mind not to test something nutty with it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2017 02:21
|
|
|
It'll be a few external HDDs and a USB hub, so nothing too high draw. Maybe the TV I'm using as a monitor which seems to make the UPS beep when I turn it on, but that's temporary anyway.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2017 02:32
|
|
|
Amazon has some one foot 16 gauge cables from etekcity that I usually buy that cost a little more but claim to handle up to 13A.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2017 03:55
|
|
|
Ah neat, double the price but double the cables too so all works out. I've put a cancellation in on my order and if it goes through I'll get those instead.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2017 04:16
|
|
|
Reposting from the partspicking megathread, as nobody answered and it is a sort of quick hardware question: I'm looking for a good air cooler that costs about 50-55€ for moderate overclocking. Main choices I see right now in price order: Be Quiet! Shadow Rock 2 (49€) Cryorig H7 (50€) Cryorig H5 Universal (52€, with slim fan) Scythe Mugen 5 (52€, both standard with 1 fan and PCGH version with 2 fans, same price) Scythe Fuma (55€) Noctua NH-U12S (60€ - a tad out of budget but hey it's Noctua) considering that case space is not an issue at all (Corsair Carbide 500R, easily takes a 160mm cooler and I always use ATX boards with low-profile RAM), but noise and performance are (in my house temps can get to 30°-32°C in the summer), what would be my best bet? I really like the aesthetics and function of the Scythe Fuma's double tower, from what I read it's very quiet and cools really well for the price, almost on par with 85€+ coolers like the Noctua / BeQuiet double towers. The Mugen 5 PCGH with 2 fans at that price looks like a steal too since the fans are both quieter and more reliable than the Fuma's apparently, even though it's a "standard" big single tower. I also heard good things about the Cryorig and Be Quiet! coolers but I'm not sure, they're still middle-tier to the Scythe's top-tier coolers, also the H7 looks overpriced considering you can get the bigger H5 at the same price, even if with a slim fan (though I'm pretty sure that will either be a compromise on quietness or airflow)
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2017 09:50
|
|
|
I use the €30ish Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo which is very quiet and works really well. It should handle some OC with ease.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2017 10:50
|
|
|
Geemer posted:I use the €30ish Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo which is very quiet and works really well. It should handle some OC with ease. That's what I have but with these days temperatures (37C outside, 33 inside) It's struggling. Might be the fan starting to lose performance too, that's why I am looking for a beefier cooler replacement
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2017 12:10
|
|
|
TorakFade posted:That's what I have but with these days temperatures (37C outside, 33 inside) It's struggling. Might be the fan starting to lose performance too, that's why I am looking for a beefier cooler replacement
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2017 17:13
|
|
|
Alereon posted:None of those coolers are really beefier than a Hyper 212, they're all in about the same class. I'd suggest cleaning and remounting your heatsink, and if that truly isn't enough, look at a higher-end air cooler like the Noctua NH-D15. You can find better values but anything that delivers noticeably higher performance is also going to have a noticeably higher price than the mid-range coolers you are looking at. Hmm that comparison is missing the Scythe fuma and mugen with 2 fans which honestly are the more interesting of the bunch. It has the mugen max which is about 5C cooler than the 212x and that's quite decent, if the 2 fans mugen 5 has similar performance it would be good value at 50€. I will try repasting first but if I end up having to change the fan I would rather go for something a bit bigger and beefier anyway, just can't justify spending 85€ on a top line cooler.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2017 17:41
|
|
|
TorakFade posted:I will try repasting first but if I end up having to change the fan I would rather go for something a bit bigger and beefier anyway, just can't justify spending 85€ on a top line cooler.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2017 17:50
|
|
|
Alereon posted:That's kind of the rub, when you already have an upper-mid-range cooler that's an excellent value, spending a lot more for a top-end cooler is the only way you get a meaningful improvement. The point is your existing cooler is already great so they have to try very hard to be much better, and trying hard is expensive. I see, considering this I might just spring for an AIO liquid cooler to try it out since it's just 20€ or so more than a Noctua NH-D15 So there's really nothing worthwhile between a 35€ Hyper 212 and a 90€ NH-D15?
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2017 19:26
|
|
|
Recommendation for a quiet external HD for a HTPC (4TB)?
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2017 02:33
|
|
|
Does it have to be 4tb? Because we're all super happy with these at the moment. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-easystore-8tb-external-usb-3-0-hard-drive-black/5792401.p?skuId=5792401 Noise isn't the biggest of my concerns and I just have it on the floor under my desk, but I can't say I've heard it to be honest. It's a bare drive so you could always put it into a different enclosure if you wanted.
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2017 04:55
|
|
|
Thanks, 8TB is way too much space. This one looks pretty good to me https://www.amazon.com/Black-Passpo...Bdrive&th=1#Ask
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2017 12:12
|
|
|
Could someone recommend a usb bluetooth receiver that works on win10 and mac os?
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2017 20:41
|
|
|
Does a car charger exist for USB-C to charge laptops? Like everything that seems to come up is USB-A car chargers with a USB-A to USB-C cable, which means 5v 2.1a max I want like real usbc charging fed from 12vdc... any beans?
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2017 23:29
|
|
|
eames posted:80°C is "pretty warm" and 90°C is "hot". Lower temperatures are better for the chips and all surrounding components but people tend to forget that identical parts are often specified to run at 100°C in badly cooled laptops. Referring back to this, finally got play PUBG for like 2.5 hours today (on High, which I'm told maybe to drop down to Medium if only because the game's not super well optimized just yet) and whenever I would check my temps my GPU would be pegged around 80c in games, with my fans kicking up during longer matches and dropping back down to mid-60s during the practice portion. I realize you say "pretty warm," but I'm just wondering whether or not I may be borking a card playing long stretches at that temp. My cousin (my local pc gamer that knows more about this stuff than I do) says that if it gets too hot, then the card should pull back on power automatically. Is this correct? Like, if poo poo starts getting into dangerous levels, my computer should throw up a warning or dial stuff down, yeah? He also says his AMD card sticks around 88 under load. I checked the GeForce page, and that does say max temp should hit 94, but I'm not sure whether that means "hey, it's still working" or "holy poo poo turn this thing off" at that level. Sorry for bringing this up again, but other places online people are like "YOUR CARDS hosed IF IT HITS 90" while others are like "Dude, that's totally fine." I know I'm probably just over-worried, but hey, this thing was 'spensive, I'm new to actually proper gaming pcs and I just wanna make sure I'm taking care of it properly.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 00:00
|
|
|
Sniep posted:Does a car charger exist for USB-C to charge laptops? Like everything that seems to come up is USB-A car chargers with a USB-A to USB-C cable, which means 5v 2.1a max I know someone who has this specific thing for his USB-C Macbook to charge in his car: https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Charger-Adapter-Standard-Nintendo/dp/B01FL9SRVI It works for him pretty well, but he thinks it doesn't deliver quite as much power as using the normal wall charger does.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 00:02
|
|
|
Sniep posted:Does a car charger exist for USB-C to charge laptops? Like everything that seems to come up is USB-A car chargers with a USB-A to USB-C cable, which means 5v 2.1a max
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 00:16
|
|
|
Small question I already know half the answer to, but need some finer details: I wanted to upgrade my RAM to stave off needing to build an entire new PC before the next release of nvidia GPUs in a few months + more months for kinks to get worked out. So I purchased some Patriot 16 GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 9-9-9-24 1.5V ram to replace my current stuff. Currently I've got some G.Skill 8 GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1333 9-9-9-24 1.5V ram. I noticed when using Speccy that the timings were the same and had the same voltage so I was wondering if it would be better to have 16GB of 1600 or 24GB of 1333. I'd like a larger amount of memory cause it seems like I need to leave more and more stuff open in the background, and I read that the difference in speed is negligible for just gaming, browsing, watching videos, etc. on a system like mine. BUT I also read that filling all 4 slots on a MB with ram is a bad idea for some reason involving the controllers, but then they always mention overclocking, which is something my system is incapable of doing anyways. And then there's something about dual and quad channels that I read conflicting info on (like filling all 4 slots is for quad channel memory, and to my very limited knowledge most consumer level CPUs don't even support quad until recently). It's really all a big mess of google searches that don't answer what I need to know in my conditions. This is all assuming of course that both types play well with each other in the first place. My system as Speccy outputs: ASRock H77 Pro4/MVP motherboard. Intel Core i5 3570 @ 3.40GHz Ivy Bridge 22nm 4095MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 Samsung SSD 850 EVO 1TB some old Seagate 1TB HDD Obviously, I am not going to be overclocking anything with this PC. So all of that is right out. Don't have a CPU or a Mobo that supports it, but can support up to 32 GB of RAM. And for gaming 1333 vs 1600 has no fantastic difference in performance (apparently). Assuming that both types of RAM play nice since they have the same timings and voltages: Would it be okay to fill out all 4 slots on a mobo with RAM on a non-overclocking set-up? Does this have a negative impact of any sort that would lead to getting better performance out of just filling two slots with ram? If so: what is the point of having 4 ram slots on most motherboards? I'm an idiot when it comes to computers, so please correct me on any and all things that are false.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 01:08
|
|
|
Soul Glo posted:Referring back to this, finally got play PUBG for like 2.5 hours today (on High, which I'm told maybe to drop down to Medium if only because the game's not super well optimized just yet) and whenever I would check my temps my GPU would be pegged around 80c in games, with my fans kicking up during longer matches and dropping back down to mid-60s during the practice portion. I realize you say "pretty warm," but I'm just wondering whether or not I may be borking a card playing long stretches at that temp. Yeah your cousin is right. Pascal (your card's GPU architecture) has a very sophisticated temperature/voltage/frequency controller that automatically adjusts these parameters for maximum performance within safe circumstances. The chip automatically overclocks ("boosts") until it hits a temperature target of ~82°C (the default temperature target set by Nvidia), this is the way the chip was designed. If your GPU gets hotter than that it'll clock down in small steps, reducing frequency/voltage, power consumption and heat output so that the temperature won't exceed 82°C. You may lose 0,5 FPS but you won't get a warning because this is intended behaviour. It is possible adjust the fan curve and trade lower temperatures/better performance for more noise but most card manufacturers are pretty good at finding the right balance these days. TLDR: working as intended, no need to worry until you exceed 90°C with the default settings.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 09:20
|
|
|
eames posted:Yeah your cousin is right. Pascal (your card's GPU architecture) has a very sophisticated temperature/voltage/frequency controller that automatically adjusts these parameters for maximum performance within safe circumstances. Thanks for replying again with this, good to have more confirmation that my pc is working properly. I know I can gently caress with the fan speed profiles, but have left everything at default/"let the fans scale up when needed" settings. After posting again, I kept an eye on my temps by just breaking out the readings to the desktop and checking throughout the night. Sure enough, PUBG ran the hottest at 80 (hopefully it'll run a little easier in the final version). DOOM 2016 hit 65 (this game runs unfuckingbelievably well), Batman: Arkham Asylum and Overwatch never ran the GPU hotter than 55. Sitting at desktop the GPU hovered between 48 and 52. I also checked the system's readouts against HWInfo64 as per this thread, and they matched, so I feel I'm getting accurate readings. Just comes down to being paranoid having thrown some cash around and not necessarily being as well versed in what today's computer parts are meant to be able to do. Thanks again.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 10:15
|
|
|
Broose posted:Small question I already know half the answer to, but need some finer details: Go ahead and use all four slots. The additional sticks do stress the memory controller more, but it is designed to handle this load and won't cause loss in performance. Many people will recommend getting two larger sticks instead of four smaller ones - this is mostly for ease of expansion later on, not for reduced load on the memory controller. Overclocking throws a wrench in filling out the RAM slots because you're running at speeds the memory controller isn't certified to handle. Using fewer sticks means the controller has fewer things to keep track of, giving it some breathing room when dealing with faster memory. This doesn't mean you can't fill out your RAM slots while overclocking - you just have to adjust your OC settings to compensate for it. e. Make sure your RAM is installed where one pair is in slots 1 and 3, and the other set is in 2 and 4. Having the same amount of memory in both channels ensures that you'll access memory in dual channel mode as opposed to single channel. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 09:29 on Jul 31, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2017 09:03
|
|
|
Actuarial Fables posted:Go ahead and use all four slots. The additional sticks do stress the memory controller more, but it is designed to handle this load and won't cause loss in performance. Many people will recommend getting two larger sticks instead of four smaller ones - this is mostly for ease of expansion later on, not for reduced load on the memory controller. Thank you, everything makes a lot more sense now. Are saying put one 4 GB stick and one 8 GB stick in one channel, 12 GB to a channel? Or rather keep alike pairs in their own channels, one channel of 8GB other the 16GB?
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2017 14:36
|
|
|
Broose posted:Thank you, everything makes a lot more sense now. The former. Should look like this (substitute 2GB with 8GB)  Having equal amounts of memory in each channel ensures that we're not using flex channel (some dual channel access, some single channel). code:
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2017 19:32
|
|
|
I think my PC is close to giving up the ghost. Lately it suffered from "holdups", meaning it would not respond for 20-30 seconds then just resumed working as normal. Today, it abruptly shut down out of the blue, and failed to restart a couple times then finally came back on. The two front panel usb ports aren't working anymore so I think the culprit might be the motherboard, but I am not sure how to check and confirm it. It's a FX 6300 - asrock extreme 4 am3+ motherboard - xfx550 PSU from 2013, since it's old and outdated I wouldn't want to waste a ton of money on replacing random stuff, but I would like it to last until the new Intel 6-cores come out..
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2017 14:12
|
|
|
Actuarial Fables posted:The former. Should look like this (substitute 2GB with 8GB) Oh wow, never knew about that. Thank you and again for going through the trouble to post pictures.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2017 14:47
|
|
|
TorakFade posted:I think my PC is close to giving up the ghost. Check your hard drive with CrystalDiskInfo (standard portable doesn't have anime). If it says anything other than Good it's probably your hard drive dying and you should back your poo poo up ASAP. If your hard drive is OK, you should consider posting in the haus of tech support.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2017 17:51
|
|
|
Geemer posted:Check your hard drive with CrystalDiskInfo (standard portable doesn't have anime). If it says anything other than Good it's probably your hard drive dying and you should back your poo poo up ASAP. If your hard drive is OK, you should consider posting in the haus of tech support. I checked the system drive (ssd) and it's fine, but what wasn't fine was that the case had a ton of dust inside and temps are close to 33 celsius in my house so it was probably grossly overheating I thoroughly cleaned it and repasted the CPU for good measure and no more lockups today. Hopefully I didn't burn off anything due to my nonexistant cleaning routine 
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2017 20:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 13:03 |
|
|
I have an Nvidia 1060 and an i5-2500k cpu. I'd like to maybe start streaming some of my gaming. From what i understand, if i use something like OBS with the Nvenc codec, the processing for streaming gets shifted to my nvidia card. Do i even need to get a more powerful processor with more cores like the new Ryzen cpus to improve streaming performance, or is literally all the work done on my nvidia card in this specific instance? I guess i might want to upgrade in the future, say 1 year, but i mostly just do gaming and don't even know if getting those extra core cpu's are worth it. I really don't run multiple things at once.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2017 21:13
|
|
