|
What hot hatch do you own? This poll is closed. |
|||
|---|---|---|---|
| Golf GTI / R / R32 |
|
196 | 0.02% |
| Impreza WRX / STi |
|
133 | 0.01% |
| Mazdaspeed 3 |
|
92 | 0.01% |
| Veloster Turbo |
|
20 | 0.00% |
| Focus ST |
|
149 | 0.01% |
| Other Hot Hatch |
|
230 | 0.02% |
| Elantra GT |
|
1000001 | 99.92% |
| Total: | 1000821 votes | ||
|
Larrymer posted:It's just funny to me that you were bitching about American car buyers when you're part of the group that you're complaining about. Manufacturers don't make any money when everybody only wants to buy the car used, so they pull out of that market. AI programmed me to never buy a brand new car! If I wasn't looking at an ST a brand new model 2017 would be on the table. I just can't drop $25K on a new car when a one year older model can be had so much cheaper.
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2017 02:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 16:33 |
|
|
I got a leftover 16 with like 5 miles on it for 19k. It took some haggling but there are deals to be had. I don't think anyone with half a brain is spending 25k on one right now. However I think I mentioned my horror story about one dealership trying to get me for 27k before TTL which had me laughing out the door.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2017 03:12
|
|
|
Quite A Tool posted:I got a leftover 16 with like 5 miles on it for 19k. It took some haggling but there are deals to be had. I don't think anyone with half a brain is spending 25k on one right now. I found have found several 2016's with under 15K miles for right around $16K which seems to be a pretty good deal. I'd pull the trigger if I was ready to sell my current car.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2017 03:17
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:AI programmed me to never buy a brand new car! Ya, but what if you can't buy a 1 year old used model of what you want. For example my R. Also what are the odds that you are getting a 1 year old used wrecked R because some cocksucker with no insurance tboned your rear end. In some cases buying new is not only the only option, but the best option. One of these days I'm gonna track that fucker down and make him pay. Right, I did mention the rear end in a top hat that hit me has a warrant for not showing up for his 2nd court date, and has a suspended license in Colorado. But my facebook sleuthing has showed him in Vegas. *must not drive to vegas and kill rear end in a top hat*
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2017 07:38
|
|
|
Even now it's not like Rs have depreciated that much. The lowest I can find is around 32k with most hovering around the 33 range.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2017 17:29
|
|
|
Taima posted:Even now it's not like Rs have depreciated that much. The lowest I can find is around 32k with most hovering around the 33 range. I sold my 2013 R outright for 24 grand earlier this year and that was the last gen model that is kinda tubby and down on power.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2017 17:38
|
|
|
pricey @ 380 bucks, but kinda impressive that replacing a golf R stock harmonic dampener with a performance fluidampr managed to increase performance by 7 hp and 11lb-ft http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/4621/PageID/12161/Project-Golf-R-MKVII-Fluidampr-Test.aspx
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2017 18:42
|
|
|
loving with the harmonic dampening (crank pulley) of engines is something I really wouldn't screw with.........
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2017 18:56
|
|
|
i'm definitely not going to do it, just interesting to see what happens when you replace a stock one with a higher quality one
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2017 19:00
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:pricey @ 380 bucks, but kinda impressive that replacing a golf R stock harmonic dampener with a performance fluidampr managed to increase performance by 7 hp and 11lb-ft Motoiq has pretty interesting articles and I always forget to go back there. Thanks for this.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2017 21:06
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:AI programmed me to never buy a brand new car! I got a way better interest rate on the new one than the one year older but used one. plus with the ST (in my case anyways) i just always shudder when i think about what a previous owner does to "fun" cars
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2017 21:14
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:i'm definitely not going to do it, just interesting to see what happens when you replace a stock one with a higher quality one I'm having a lot of trouble wrapping my head around two things here: 1) Why the hell did it make more power? 2) How is it that VW, of all companies, has come up with a way to make a front pulley just bolt on instead of a press fit?
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2017 21:20
|
|
|
sneakyfrog posted:I got a way better interest rate on the new one than the one year older but used one. plus with the ST (in my case anyways) i just always shudder when i think about what a previous owner does to "fun" cars I looked at at 2017 priced and inventory, they dropped the blue for 2017! Edit: Out of 18 ST's currently for sale in blue, only one has the recaro package. No moonroof. Rhyno fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Sep 20, 2017 |
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 06:05
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:I looked at at 2017 priced and inventory, they dropped the blue for 2017! yeah it was either that orange or grey or white near me, only the white one had the recaros and moonroof *sigh* now i have to wash it all the time.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 12:06
|
|
|
sneakyfrog posted:yeah it was either that orange or grey or white near me, only the white one had the recaros and moonroof Just get a ceramic coating slapped onto it and be amazed at how much easier it is to wash. Everything just beads off.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 13:10
|
|
|
Etrips posted:Just get a ceramic coating slapped onto it and be amazed at how much easier it is to wash. Everything just beads off. This. The opti-coat on mine, I basically just rinse the car.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 17:49
|
|
|
Etrips posted:Just get a ceramic coating slapped onto it and be amazed at how much easier it is to wash. Everything just beads off. i did not even know this was a thing veedubfreak posted:This. The opti-coat on mine, I basically just rinse the car. so is this something you have to get professionally done?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 20:30
|
|
|
no you can DIY it imo it's prohibitively expensive to pay so much for a professional to apply it and it only lasts a few years
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 20:48
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:no you can DIY it The hardest part is proper paint correction. For me it was worth having it professionally done. As it is warrantied for 5 years. The stuff you can buy and DIY isn't as good as the professional grade stuff tho. PRO vs consumer grade https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/the-difference-between-opti-coat-pro-and-opti-gloss-coating.43156/
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 21:31
|
|
|
veedubfreak posted:The hardest part is proper paint correction. For me it was worth having it professionally done. As it is warrantied for 5 years. The stuff you can buy and DIY isn't as good as the professional grade stuff tho. huh so i have to find a pro detailer in Orlando huh. How much $$ does something like that cost for an itty bitty car?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 22:27
|
|
|
sneakyfrog posted:huh so i have to find a pro detailer in Orlando huh. How much $$ does something like that cost for an itty bitty car? Mine took 4 hours of paint correction, and I also had the windshield and rear window done. It was 1100.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 22:46
|
|
|
veedubfreak posted:Mine took 4 hours of paint correction, and I also had the windshield and rear window done. It was 1100. thanks friend
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 22:48
|
|
|
You can get your wheels done too so brake dust doesn't cake on forever.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 22:56
|
|
|
veedubfreak posted:Mine took 4 hours of paint correction, and I also had the windshield and rear window done. It was 1100. That seems really reasonable considering the paint correction.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 22:58
|
|
|
GentlemanofLeisure posted:That seems really reasonable considering the paint correction. It actually cost me over 900 to have the driver side redone after the accident. Because it took 6 hours of paint correction. So don't let the dealer wash your poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 23:08
|
|
|
FiST owners: Assuming that our gearboxes are mechanically identical regardless of where our cars are built, I have a question for you. Does your gearbox exhibit any reluctance to slip out of first gear when shifting? Mine will slip in and out of gear like butter when the car is at rest with the clutch in, but once I have loaded up the gear in first it almost never slips out with no resistance, it's like there is a notch, or something snagging a component. It can vary from a lot of resistance when cold, to a small but noticeable amount when the gearbox is thoroughly warm. To my mind, this should never be a function of any correctly-operating manual trans, and I've never experienced anything like it before. The likely smoothness of the shift to second gear seems to be affected too. When cold it's more likely to be baulky, noticeably clunky through the shifter (unless the neutral-> 2nd phase of the shift is deliberately slow), and when nice and hot it will usually be quite smooth and able to be shifted quickly. Am I alone? Here4DaGangBang fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Sep 22, 2017 |
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2017 04:55
|
|
|
Here4DaGangBang posted:FiST owners: No, first to second is pretty clunky when the car is cold, even if the the little readout at the center of the dash says the car is at temperature. I'm at 130 miles and have picked up the habit of feathering the clutch for the 1-2 shift and letting the engine pull me into the flow of traffic. The shift feel gets a bit better if you go on an extended drive, but still clunks, and you can hear it with the windows down.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2017 06:54
|
|
|
A Loud Fart posted:No, first to second is pretty clunky when the car is cold, even if the the little readout at the center of the dash says the car is at temperature. I'm at 130 miles and have picked up the habit of feathering the clutch for the 1-2 shift and letting the engine pull me into the flow of traffic. The shift feel gets a bit better if you go on an extended drive, but still clunks, and you can hear it with the windows down. Just to be clear, the little clacky noise when engaging gears or clutching out I think is widespread and normal with these gearboxes, so that's cool. But your clunky 1-2 shifts, are they clunks which indicate a shift which is less smooth, and do you feel the feedback through the stick of the shift being rough? If that's what you're talking about and it persists until the gearbox itself is thoroughly warmed up (water temp is irrelevant, like you've described), then it sounds like our boxes are similar. Your comment about feathering the clutch makes me suspect you're only talking about the harmless clack noise though... I.e. letting the clutch out more slowly applies the power more smoothly. Also this clack could be dual mass flywheel-related noise? The mystery still remains the feeling of the stick being snagged on something and not easily slipping out of first. I also notice this feeling in reverse, but again, only if the gear has been loaded up by letting the clutch out. Without seeing a diagram of the gearbox I don't know if there is any common component between 1st and reverse gears which may be implicated.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2017 09:08
|
|
|
Here4DaGangBang posted:FiST owners: Sup friend, I tend to usually warm up the car for a bit in the morning, just habit i guess. but haven't noticed any issues other than the basically useless 1st gear. I have almost 1k miles on it now and it took a wee bit to get used to getting it smoothly into 2nd the clutch feathering is pretty much the way to go, nothing crazy just a light feather to slowly apply power. A Loud Fart posted:No, first to second is pretty clunky when the car is cold, even if the the little readout at the center of the dash says the car is at temperature. I'm at 130 miles and have picked up the habit of feathering the clutch for the 1-2 shift and letting the engine pull me into the flow of traffic. The shift feel gets a bit better if you go on an extended drive, but still clunks, and you can hear it with the windows down. Uhm that 1-2 thunk is pretty common due to the crap rear motor mount which is the first component i replaced with a montune one. After replacing that one at uh.. around 500 miles-ish that hard thunk you get when you drop it hard into 2nd went away. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/2364-RR-AA
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2017 12:23
|
|
|
Don't know if FiSTs are similar but a lot of guys in the RS community are switching out their factory fluid for this. Apparently makes the gearbox a whole lot smoother.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2017 13:23
|
|
|
I hated the clutch feel until I binned the pedal assist spring. No clunks anymore at all. However, the clutch will be significantly more heavy and when the car has sat for a while, it sags slightly. A couple pumps on the pedal and a lift with your toe under it and it works perfectly. It's just a routine for me now I'm the morning. Sounds silly but if you google ford clutch spring removal you see people taking them out on almost every car. It's a stupid design, it creates artificial rebound on the release and makes it very difficult to smoothly engage the clutch because it's shoving the clutch pedal upward. If you're not interested in removing the spring, there is a couple aftermarket ones that are less aggressive. Also, pump your pedal a few times if you're getting notchy feeling shifts. If it smooths out, it's probably worth bleeding your clutch hydraulics. If the issue persists, it's possible the hydraulics are going bad and not fully disengaging the trans while you shift. Persist in letting it feel crunchy and snaggy and you will end up with damaged synchhros.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2017 14:58
|
|
|
Oh, and if you dont mind a little NVH, get an upgraded rear motor mount (roll center damper whatever the gently caress they call it). I run the CP-E brand one. It DRASTICALLY cleans up the shifter feel. I used to miss 3rd sometimes, hitting a spot between 1st and 3rd. Never happens anymore, shifter is drastically improved.
PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Sep 22, 2017 |
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2017 15:26
|
|
|
From what I've read online, simply removing the spring is a bad idea. For basically the exact reasons you mentioned about it sagging. Over time that's going to put a bunch more wear and tear on your master cylinder seals etc, some people say even the pedal will stop coming up period without you lifting it manually. Of course your mileage may vary and maybe the improved driving feel is worth it for you. For me I tried removing the spring in my FoST and it felt a lot worse to me that way so I promptly ordered the steeda one and it's pretty nice, a bit more linear than the stock one.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2017 21:32
|
|
|
100% Dundee posted:From what I've read online, simply removing the spring is a bad idea. For basically the exact reasons you mentioned about it sagging. Over time that's going to put a bunch more wear and tear on your master cylinder seals etc, some people say even the pedal will stop coming up period without you lifting it manually. Certainly possible. I haven't seen any increased sag in the 8k or so miles I've put on it since I've made the change. A much lighter replacement spring like the Steeda is a good option i am sure. I'm just used to it the way it is now, its heavy but I can feel the bite so good 
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2017 21:51
|
|
|
Ended up giving up on finding any of the Indy 500's anywhere and grabbed some PSS's from costco since they have $70 off a set of Michelin tires and $0.01 mounting as well. Will be just over $700 installed after tax so not too bad.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2017 22:55
|
|
|
100% Dundee posted:From what I've read online, simply removing the spring is a bad idea. For basically the exact reasons you mentioned about it sagging. Over time that's going to put a bunch more wear and tear on your master cylinder seals etc, some people say even the pedal will stop coming up period without you lifting it manually. Jfc, $20 for a spring and it doesn't even include the plastic perch. Be careful installing this. If you break that perch it can be difficult to get a replacement. Since you're just putting it on the existing plastic piece, couldn't you get something from ACE Hardware for like 25¢?
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2017 23:59
|
|
|
The Ferret King posted:Jfc, $20 for a spring and it doesn't even include the plastic perch. yeah but wouldnt it then not come with some rad sticker you can slap on next to all the rest of your gofast part stickers?
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2017 00:11
|
|
|
The Ferret King posted:Jfc, $20 for a spring and it doesn't even include the plastic perch. There's many other spring options out there that are way cheaper, of course. Any of them will probably do the job just fine. Most of the people I've seen go the ace hardware spring route end up swapping for the steeda one eventually. I just ordered the steeda one because I was already placing an order for their jacking rails, there was a 20% Off storewide coupon and it's guaranteed to fit/work as well as being very well reviewed.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2017 00:21
|
|
|
100% Dundee posted:There's many other spring options out there that are way cheaper, of course. Any of them will probably do the job just fine. Most of the people I've seen go the ace hardware spring route end up swapping for the steeda one eventually. did you get a sticker?
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2017 00:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 16:33 |
|
|
sneakyfrog posted:did you get a sticker? Of course, if I didn't get a sticker I would have refused the shipment. I applied it directly to my dick like expected.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2017 03:28
|
|