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prom candy posted:So it's just "Hi, I'm interested in a white Civic Si with the summer tire upgrade and I'm ready to purchase, can you please let me know your best OTD price including all taxes and fees, as well as your 3-year and 5-year interest rates" and fire that off to all the Honda dealers in the area? Every single one will reply, "Let's set up an appointment so you can get a look at what we have in stock." Getting a price via email will be like pulling teeth, but it's worth a try.
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Oct 29, 2017 22:05
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scope out the OE incentives for the area first
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Oct 29, 2017 22:24
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Google's not helping, what are OE incentives? I've already been emailing a bit with the sales guy that my wife bought her Honda from ten years ago, and he gave me some pricing (basically just added up MSRP + fees + taxes for OTD price.) I guess I could try to deal with him first since my wife liked him and he's willing to do business over email?
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Oct 29, 2017 22:51
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incentives from the manufacturer (OEM) - American Honda Motor Company, in this case. Since the Si is pretty new I don't currently see any incentives on it from AHMC in my region, and I think that's likely to apply nationally on that particular model. There is currently an 0.9% APR offer on non-Si Civics. AHMC is also, in general, relatively stingy with incentives. Edit: numbers right now look like in SE Michigan that you should be paying about $400 above invoice for a Si with summer tires. That's about $1,300 below MSRP, so you should probably counteroffer at about $1,300 below the offered OTD price. KYOON GRIFFEY JR fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Oct 29, 2017 |
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Oct 29, 2017 23:11
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Thanks, appreciate that! I'm in Canada so numbers are a bit different but ~$1300 below the offered price is about what I was hoping for as well. I was quoted at $34141 OTD, I'd be happy with $33000. Honda's website is showing 3.99% for 60 month and 3.49% for 36 month which is pretty bad as far as I can tell. If the dealership can come down on the price and do a little better on the rates I think we'll have ourselves a deal. Actually it also looks like the summer tire upgrade doesn't exist in Canada, and white is an extra $300, that kinda sucks. One more question: is it stupid to buy a new car heading into winter?
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Oct 29, 2017 23:34
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Not really, you're just going to have to shell out for winter tires immediately. I forget how much it blows to buy a car in the rest of the world. The dealer can provide financing outside of Honda's captive financing, but at least in the US they can tack on a few basis points to the rates they get to make money, and this means you may not necessarily get best rates. If you have a good relationship with a bank or credit union, you can let them know what you plan to buy and how much it costs and go in with a pre-approved rate. If the dealer can beat it, great - if not, you have financing with you. Don't talk financing until you have OTD (tax, title, tags, doc fees [lol], D&D) pricing squared away.
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Oct 29, 2017 23:38
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Cool, thanks for all the info, really appreciate it!
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Oct 29, 2017 23:57
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The most important thing when you go to a dealership is to bring a good book with you and come prepared to be there the entire day. They will try to fatigue you into accepting their demands just to make the ordeal of endless waiting and repetition end. Probably you will never find a dealership that will immediately honor the price they emailed you (if you can get them to email you a price at all; they're increasingly wise to that game.) Since you're a first time buyer they will take you for a sucker (because most first time buyers are) and try to rip you off. Your defense is to know exactly how much the going rate for the car is and refuse to budge from it by a nickel. They'll try to play around with monthly payments, they'll claim the model you want is suddenly in short supply, they'll claim the financing encountered a hitch, they'll try relentlessly to upsell you poo poo, they'll try to fatigue and confuse you like a cross examining attorney. Go in knowing and expecting all this, and when they start jerking your chain:  LEAVE. This is the single most important thing to do. It's the only thing they fear. Just tell them you're not interested in all this bullshit and you're going to look elsewhere, and leave. Don't let them persuade you to stay for ANY reason, not even if the salesperson immediately acquiesces to your every desire. They will say ANYTHING to stop you from walking out the door. If you stay, you'll be told to sit tight and the salesperson will return in a few minutes and start the Bullshit Carousel right back up. When they've jerked you around enough to start upsetting you, just walk out the door. They have your email and phone number. If they're actually interested in selling the car, they WILL contact you soon about it and then you can engage in real negotiations remotely. The second time you walk in, it's to sign the papers on a deal you arranged from home. And if they agree to such a deal only to go right back to bullshitting you again as soon as you're back, LEAVE AND NEVER RETURN. At this point you are dealing with a dealership that won't do a deal unless they're ripping off the buyer and their game is not worth playing.
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Oct 30, 2017 12:33
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Alright so I was just at the dealership and I asked if they had any working trucks that I should know about. He pulled up in a 2007 Silverado 4x4 Duramax with four doors and 118,000 miles. They want 25,000. It's in really nice condition. Power everything. Even got the cigarette lighters in it still. Should I bite? Like, I have preemptive buyer's remorse.
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Oct 30, 2017 23:10
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in'
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You should never, ever pay sticker price for anything at a dealership.
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Oct 30, 2017 23:27
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I got him to come down 1,000 bucks cause our cousins are cousins or something.
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Oct 30, 2017 23:28
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That's kinda sorta in the ballpark for that truck (if it's an LTZ) depending on where you live. So if you actually need a towbeast right now I suppose you could do worse.......
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Oct 31, 2017 00:21
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Went to the dealer again last night because I wanted to sit in the car one more time before I pulled the trigger (my friend said he found it difficult to get in and out of the car, I'm a spry manlet so no such issues.) Got pricing from the sales guy there and also talked him into letting me sit in the Type R they had on display (didn't even bother trying to get a test drive of that one). Emailed him and the other guy I met last month from another dealership, guy from last night said the price he gave last night is the price, guy at the other dealership beat it by about 2k. I'm going in on my lunch tomorrow to sign paperwork, and I made it clear that I don't have a lot of time and my expectation is to come in, sign some poo poo, and give them my down payment. Guy seemed happy to play ball over email and told me all the stuff they're gonna try to sell me tomorrow as well. I'll update again after the deal's actually made but the process so far has been pretty painless.
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Oct 31, 2017 20:00
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Gonna need a ton of help here. Think of us as newbies; I've bought a car, but it was almost ten years ago and I basically just went in and bought a civic hybrid with no negotiation because I was an idiot. Proposed Budget: Good enough financial shape to be able to spend upwards of 25-30k but need advice heavily New or Used: Fine with either, as long as it makes sense Body Style: Seats more than 5, i.e. has a third row of some kind How will you be using the car?: Going to have 2 kids, with carseats and junk to haul, a plain sedan is just a little small.Going to use it to commute, it's a 30ish minute commute. We've never really liked SUVs but if that's what is available, so be it. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability/safety highest, mpg/cost/etc next, gizmos pretty low We really just need a bigger car, don't want to get ripped off, are willing to spend enough to make sure we get something good, but can go with used to save money if it works out. Assume maintenance is always at a local mechanic, i.e. not dealership unless necessary, but nothing DIY at home.
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Nov 1, 2017 03:09
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If you can tolerate the way the Ford Flex looks, it's great.
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Nov 1, 2017 03:25
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Pacifica hybrid, Sienna, or Odyssey. Sedona worth a look.
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Nov 1, 2017 03:26
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:If you can tolerate the way the Ford Flex looks, it's great. *I* don't mind it, my wife does seem to think it's ugly. A bit pricier than the Sedona I guess? Deteriorata posted:Pacifica hybrid, Sienna, or Odyssey. Sedona worth a look. Of these, the Sedona seems lowest price-wise. Is there a significant reason the other cars are better? Thanks both of you, though, for the quick responses!
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Nov 1, 2017 03:51
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silvergoose posted:*I* don't mind it, my wife does seem to think it's ugly. A bit pricier than the Sedona I guess? The Pacifica is generally acknowledged as best in class. The Odyssey and Sienna are close for second and third. The Sedona is not far behind the others, so if its features hit a sweet spot with you it's a good choice. The Pacifica hybrid has a significant advantage in that your commute with it would be able to run almost entirely on electric, saving you lots on gas. My main recommendation would be to do your homework and learn what each car is like. Your own needs and preferences should be the biggest factor. ETA: We own an Odyssey, and it's great. We bought it before the Pacificas came out, though, and would have bought one of those instead. Taking out the second row of seats to haul bulky things is an enormous pain in the rear end. Stow-and-go second row seats on the Pacifica make it worth it right there. Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Nov 1, 2017 |
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Nov 1, 2017 04:05
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silvergoose posted:*I* don't mind it, my wife does seem to think it's ugly. A bit pricier than the Sedona I guess? There is a reason school pickup lines are 80% Honda Odyssey by volume. Really well thought out family transportation system, and the 3rd row is usable by medium sized adults. But they are also brutally expensive new, and hold value like crazy, so buying used isn't going to net you any this-decade bargains. Also not bad to drive for 14 hours at a stretch.
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Nov 1, 2017 04:05
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Looking at everything, the Odyssey does seem really good. Thanks again! Getting ahead of ourselves, when getting to the actual buying, is carbargains or similar services, where for a flat fee they will do the legwork of price shopping and negotiating, at all worth it and/or at all trustworthy?
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Nov 1, 2017 09:52
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silvergoose posted:Looking at everything, the Odyssey does seem really good. Thanks again! Not sure how those work but it sounds fishy. What motivation do they have to get you a great price? Do they get paid more if your discount off MSRP is higher? Not sure that would even work...
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Nov 1, 2017 11:43
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Usually it's flat fee based. You are paying money for convenience. I don't think it's usually worth it, but I also kind of enjoy the car buying process.
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Nov 1, 2017 12:02
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Tom McParland from Jalopnik has one of those companies. Automatch is his. He’s the only Jalopnik writer I really like, so I’ve been tempted to use him in the past.
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Nov 1, 2017 15:01
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silvergoose posted:Looking at everything, the Odyssey does seem really good. Thanks again! If you have a Costco membership they have a car buying service as well, and usually you get some kind of bonus Costco cash card too. My experience from trying it is that while it will get you an ok deal - near invoice cost - you can do better negotiating yourself.
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Nov 1, 2017 22:17
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Eric the Mauve posted:The most important thing when you go to a dealership is to bring a good book with you and come prepared to be there the entire day. They will try to fatigue you into accepting their demands just to make the ordeal of endless waiting and repetition end. So either I got incredibly lucky or the price I settled on over email was just not a very good price because I went in to sign all the paperwork today and it was dead easy. Price on the paper was the same as the price I received over email, interest rates were the same, etc. FI guy gave me the spiel for warranty and protection and all that but not really a hard sell and I just said I'd think about it and he said he just needs to know before I pick up the car. I went in expecting a lot of hassles but it ended up being really painless. Now I just have to wait 7-10 days for my new ride to show up. I don't want the extended warranty, paint protection, rust proofing, or any of that on a new Civic, right?
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Nov 1, 2017 23:21
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prom candy posted:So either I got incredibly lucky or the price I settled on over email was just not a very good price because I went in to sign all the paperwork today and it was dead easy. Price on the paper was the same as the price I received over email, interest rates were the same, etc. FI guy gave me the spiel for warranty and protection and all that but not really a hard sell and I just said I'd think about it and he said he just needs to know before I pick up the car. I went in expecting a lot of hassles but it ended up being really painless. Now I just have to wait 7-10 days for my new ride to show up. Sounds like a combination of doing things right and being lucky--the best outcome!  I'd definitely be ready to go back to that dealership in the future if it's still run by the same people.And no, you definitely do not want any of that stuff. e: I mean when I hear the dealership is happy with the price arrived at with almost no haggling then I assume you probably paid a few grand more than you had to. But if you're happy with the price you got and it's in line with going price and got your car with no headache at all, that's a win.
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Nov 1, 2017 23:33
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prom candy posted:I don't want the extended warranty, paint protection, rust proofing, or any of that on a new Civic, right? Depending on whether they salt the roads where you live (I assume they do since you're in Canada, right?) you might want to look into aftermarket rustproofing. In the Nordics where road salt is also a thing, a Swedish car magazine systematically tests and rates the factory rustproofing standards of new cars. They are pretty much considered the definitive authority on the subject over here. The new Civic did not perform particularly well in their test and was rated 2 out of 5 (Google translated summary here). Regional variation may exist, for example new Mazdas sold in most of Northern Europe are given an extra rust prevention treatment already in the port right after they are unloaded off the ship in Belgium, courtesy of the local distributor. There are huge differences in aftermarket rustproofing treatments, and some of them are a complete waste of time and money. No idea about your local offering but maybe try and see what treatments are available and look for independent reviews to figure out which ones are generally considered worth the investment?
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Nov 2, 2017 01:13
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I hear spray-on bedliner is a good undercarraige treatment.
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Nov 2, 2017 01:44
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They salt the gently caress out of the roads here yeah, part of the reason I went with a white car. I'll do some research on what's good around here. I was also planning on just getting my car washed more often after big snows. Surprising the civic performs so poorly out the gate, pretty sure it's built just up the road from me, you'd think they'd know better!
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Nov 2, 2017 06:16
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Need advice - talking to a craigslist seller now for a 2nd gen Prius. Dirt cheap - $2000. Guy has been up front about everything, but I got a Carfax using the VIN he gave me and the car had an accident in 2013 and hasn't passed emissions inspection since then. Looks like it changed ownership after the accident and it passed safety inspection but not emissions. Guy claims it's been on dealer plates for the past 4 years and he's put 5,000 miles on it since then, so I'm guessing he works for/owns some local shop. I asked him if the battery's dead, and he says it "appears to be fine" - I asked if he would be willing to take it to a local shop for a pre-purchase inspection, and he said yes. Could he have drove it on dealer plates for 4 years without having it pass NY inspection? Or do you need a car to be inspected when you're using dealer plates?
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Nov 2, 2017 14:32
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GlitterBob posted:Depending on whether they salt the roads where you live (I assume they do since you're in Canada, right?) you might want to look into aftermarket rustproofing. While nothing you've written here is wrong, you missed one crucial point: Never buy aftermarket add-ons from the dealer. They know you're worn down from negotiating the car itself, and $250 doesn't seem like such a big number after you've been going back and forth on tens of thousands. But those little extras at the end are often their most profitable sales. If you want rustproofing, or magic paint protectors, or whatever else, a detailing shop will do the same thing for far less money.
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Nov 2, 2017 14:48
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Uh--Mikal Skott posted:Welp, apparently people didn't like the wall of text and thought I was a troll. So, simplifying this to the essential question. https://www.carmax.com/car/15258720
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Nov 2, 2017 15:27
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Wow that's delicious. Not $70k delicious but that right there is a nice vehicle.
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Nov 2, 2017 15:45
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Doug DeMuro is a good follow. He's not with Jalopnik anymore but I still check out his stuff regularly. His current "Dougcar" is an e63 estate, so of course he posted this listing.
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Nov 2, 2017 15:56
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MDX vs XC60. Either would be a 2015 or 2016. Either would be at or near the top trim level. Active safety features are important. Anything notable to say about one vs the other?
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Nov 2, 2017 16:54
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Thermopyle posted:MDX vs XC60. Either would be a 2015 or 2016. Either would be at or near the top trim level. Active safety features are important. I like both but the MDX is quite a big larger so? The lower trim MDX with the 6 speed auto is probably more pleasant than the upper trim with the ZF 9 speed which in my vehicle isn't the best shifting trans in the world.
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Nov 2, 2017 17:10
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Throatwarbler posted:I like both but the MDX is quite a big larger so? The lower trim MDX with the 6 speed auto is probably more pleasant than the upper trim with the ZF 9 speed which in my vehicle isn't the best shifting trans in the world. The extra size is nice, but not required for us.
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Nov 2, 2017 17:15
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The XC60 is nice enough but it's still based on the P3 platform so it's basically the best unibody SUV underpinnings underpinnings in the world... circa 2006. My fiancee's mom just bought one. They're nice, great seats, etc. I would recommend it provided you don't care about size, as it's not very big inside. The new one is going to be miles better.
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Nov 2, 2017 17:40
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I would expect the MDX to be vastly cheaper to own and operate long term.
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Nov 2, 2017 18:49
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IOwnCalculus posted:I would expect the MDX to be vastly cheaper to own and operate long term. That's probably true. I'd really like a 2018 XC60 because those look sweet, but I can't afford it. My general idea is that in a few years I'll move to a newer vehicle (maybe the 2018 XC60!) so maybe the higher maintenance costs of the XC60 aren't that big of a deal. Are there any known high-cost repairs the XC60 is known for?
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Nov 2, 2017 19:27
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