Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

Busy Bee posted:

So I'm confused on what PaaS entails. Does anyone have a common business that utilizes PaaS?

IaaS - basically means they give you a Windows/Linux virtual machine (VM), and you're free to run whatever software you want on it: webserver, database server, etc.

PaaS - is a step up from IaaS in that they give you a fully-managed webserver or database that you can just publish your website to. So, for something like a .NET web app, I can just click publish to Azure App Service, and it will be up and running at myapp.azure.net in a few seconds. This is different from IaaS, because I don't need to worry about Windows updates, setting up IIS, etc, and there's no VM to directly connect to. (there is a VM in the background, but it's more-or-less hidden.)

SaaS - really just means any hosted software sold as a subscription. This would be a large percentage of paid software these days, with the exception of things like Microsoft Windows, which you buy once and install.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Busy Bee
Jul 13, 2004

B-Nasty posted:

IaaS - basically means they give you a Windows/Linux virtual machine (VM), and you're free to run whatever software you want on it: webserver, database server, etc.

PaaS - is a step up from IaaS in that they give you a fully-managed webserver or database that you can just publish your website to. So, for something like a .NET web app, I can just click publish to Azure App Service, and it will be up and running at myapp.azure.net in a few seconds. This is different from IaaS, because I don't need to worry about Windows updates, setting up IIS, etc, and there's no VM to directly connect to. (there is a VM in the background, but it's more-or-less hidden.)

SaaS - really just means any hosted software sold as a subscription. This would be a large percentage of paid software these days, with the exception of things like Microsoft Windows, which you buy once and install.

What would be an example of a .NET web app that most people use daily? Why would someone decide to go with IaaS when PaaS seems to be the more simple option where everything is taken care of?

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

Busy Bee posted:

What would be an example of a .NET web app that most people use daily? Why would someone decide to go with IaaS when PaaS seems to be the more simple option where everything is taken care of?

Well, StackOverflow would be one you've probably heard of.

IaaS tends to be more popular than PaaS, because you have more control and it is typically cheaper for the same amount of performance. I think there's also a fear in many companies about locking themselves in to a PaaS solution, whereas a Windows VM (IaaS) is the same no matter if I get it through Microsoft/Amazon/Google.

PaaS is usually a good choice when you're just starting a business, because you can quickly scale by throwing more money at the problem. Once you have a better idea of what your needs are, and maybe have someone to manage it, IaaS starts to make more sense.

hummingbird hoedown
Sep 23, 2004


IS THAT A STUPID NEWBIE AVATAR? FUCK NO, YOU'RE GETTING A PENTAR

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made Products
Edit: I answered my own question as zebra has printers that handle both receipt paper as well as shipping labels.

Does anyone know of a thermal printer that can print both retail receipts as well as USPS shipping labels? I've looked around and can see some multi-size thermal printers from companies like Zebra but haven't found any descriptions that explicitly say they can do receipts and shipping labels. The largest format of receipt paper I can find is 3 1/8 inches (80mm) wide and it looks like shipping labels are 4 inches wide so I'm unsure what will work.

hummingbird hoedown fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Nov 5, 2017

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Gromit posted:

Due to someone ruining it for everyone, I've been asked in my office if I can set up our Internet so that we have URL logging so that we can go back at any time and see where particular users have gone. I am not looking to block any sites or restrict use, just to keep a log of where everyone is going should there be an issue further down the track.
I'd rather not have to set up my own linux box running a proxy server or something like that, as I have plenty of other stuff on my plate without having that hassle and it's not like I have to pay for anything with my own money so the more turn-key the better.

Does anyone know of any small boxes that could do this? I've briefly looked at pfSense who have custom-built systems that look okay, but I've never used one to know if it's what I'm after. I'd settle for a modem/router that does logging but I'm not sure those exist to the degree I need. Maybe something with a custom firmware that can push data out to a secure machine on the network? Obviously the logs need to be somewhere that users can't just go and edit/delete.

Cheese it, it's the fuzz.

feedmyleg
Dec 25, 2004
Okay. I've got no idea where to post this but I figure this thread is probably the best place around these parts. It's a hardware question but not a computer question.

I bought a VCR to watch some old family videos a little while back. Haven't used one in about a decade and a half so I'm a little confused by a nuance of the hardware. My parents would always film something, turn the camera off, fast forward across some blank tape, then record more. Unfortunately, my cheap little junk store VCR seems to turn off as soon as it detects blank tape. I can try to power through by holding down the fast-forward button but it doesn't always seem to work.

Is this just because the VCR is a POS and I need to buy a decent one, or is there some kind of setting I don't know about?

Volguus
Mar 3, 2009

feedmyleg posted:

Okay. I've got no idea where to post this but I figure this thread is probably the best place around these parts. It's a hardware question but not a computer question.

I bought a VCR to watch some old family videos a little while back. Haven't used one in about a decade and a half so I'm a little confused by a nuance of the hardware. My parents would always film something, turn the camera off, fast forward across some blank tape, then record more. Unfortunately, my cheap little junk store VCR seems to turn off as soon as it detects blank tape. I can try to power through by holding down the fast-forward button but it doesn't always seem to work.

Is this just because the VCR is a POS and I need to buy a decent one, or is there some kind of setting I don't know about?

You can, if you want to, digitize those movies. There probably are USB capture cards that can help you and let you record from the VCR on the computer. It'll be a bit of work, but if you back those movies up you won't lose them (which will happen for sure with the tapes). About VCR settings I haven't touched one in 20 years :).

TITTIEKISSER69
Mar 19, 2005

SAVE THE BEES
PLANT MORE TREES
CLEAN THE SEAS
KISS TITTIESS




I have never heard of a VCR that does that.

feedmyleg
Dec 25, 2004
I agree. I thought it was weird. Could be an issue with it being an old used VCR with some run-down components inside. Sounds like a new one is probably the way to go...

Volguus posted:

You can, if you want to, digitize those movies. There probably are USB capture cards that can help you and let you record from the VCR on the computer. It'll be a bit of work, but if you back those movies up you won't lose them (which will happen for sure with the tapes). About VCR settings I haven't touched one in 20 years :).

That's my plan, but with a lot of family videos I'm trying to determine which ones are worth digitizing.

hummingbird hoedown
Sep 23, 2004


IS THAT A STUPID NEWBIE AVATAR? FUCK NO, YOU'RE GETTING A PENTAR

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made Products
I'm looking for receipt printers that can print datamatrix barcodes on them. I'd like to write a program that creates datamatrix barcodes of randomly generated numbers to after as keys. Many receipt printers only support certain barcode formats. Does anyone know if a printer could be forced or tricked into printing an unsupported barcode format through programming? Or will a printer simply be unable to print a format if it wasn't designed to support it?

Geemer
Nov 4, 2010



Hummer Driving human being posted:

I'm looking for receipt printers that can print datamatrix barcodes on them. I'd like to write a program that creates datamatrix barcodes of randomly generated numbers to after as keys. Many receipt printers only support certain barcode formats. Does anyone know if a printer could be forced or tricked into printing an unsupported barcode format through programming? Or will a printer simply be unable to print a format if it wasn't designed to support it?

As long as it can print arbitrary images (like store logos) at the resolution you're hoping for, it should at least be possible to turn your barcode into an image and print that.

EssOEss
Oct 23, 2006
128-bit approved

Volguus posted:

You can, if you want to, digitize those movies. There probably are USB capture cards that can help you and let you record from the VCR on the computer. It'll be a bit of work, but if you back those movies up you won't lose them (which will happen for sure with the tapes).

I did a batch some years ago and can recommend this type of cheap dongle: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00EOMIDXG

It worked quite well. Better than the two-three equivalents I have tried in the past, at least. However, be ready to deal with lovely audio/video sync - I have never seen a cheap capture dongle that manages to get it right.

Furthermore, video post-processing and noise removal is strongly recommended as it can work wonders to clean up the lovely picture from your degraded tapes (as they are likely to be).

My workflow was something like the following:

  • Capture the input using high quality settings.
  • Stretch audio track without pitch change to match video duration (the audio track "lost some time" due to bad A/V sync and ended up shorter in the end - this reverses the error).
  • Process audio to remove hiss and any other undesirable artifacts.
  • Crop "VCR edges" (garbage pixels at the edges of screen because of analog technology reasons)
  • Mess with picture settings to correct any extreme aberrations (some tapes were weirdly miscolored for some reason - maybe recorded with a different camera, I guess; a few I had to just make greyscale it was so bad)
  • Use a noise removal plugin to remove video noise.
  • Cut out the garbage
  • Finally encode/export the recording with economical quality settings.

The result was pretty okay - took a lot of time and effort to figure out the right process but once I got it down proper, it was pretty easy.

I used Premiere Pro and Audacity for the most. Might have also used FFmpeg for some custom processing (I honestly forget - Adobe tools tend to have stupid limitations that need to be worked around with other tools). For noise removal I used Neat Video plugin for Premiere Pro.

EssOEss fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Nov 5, 2017

JnnyThndrs
May 29, 2001

HERE ARE THE FUCKING TOWELS
Yeah, the only thing that ever worked exceptionally well for me to digitize VHS tapes was a Pinnacle FireWire breakout box, but it was like 150$ The cheap USB ones are tolerable if you don't have a zillion hours of tape to digitize.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE

JnnyThndrs posted:

Yeah, the only thing that ever worked exceptionally well for me to digitize VHS tapes was a Pinnacle FireWire breakout box, but it was like 150$ The cheap USB ones are tolerable if you don't have a zillion hours of tape to digitize.

We had a Canopus firewire breakout box (possibly ADVC-110) with nice clean video and I want to say it was several hundred dollars at the time. That was like 10-15 years ago so there may be something better/cheaper available now, but it looks like the Canopus boxes are still going for $100+ on the used market so maybe they're still a decent choice. But either way I'm guessing you're going to be out at least $100 for a converter that doesn't totally suck rear end, you just can't make a very good converter at a <$100 price point.

Since the converter can only digitize whatever signal you hand it, if you're going to do a lot of video or you need exceptional quality it's also going to be worthwhile to track down a studio-grade VHS deck (a "VTR" in studio lingo). Probably will not be as expensive as "studio grade" gear sounds, since nobody wants VHS anymore, I'd guess another $100 or so.

All in all I'd figure on sinking a minimum of $200 into the hardware, probably $300 by the time you're done and through, plus some time to figure out a decent workflow with your software of choice. But I'd guess you'll pay $50 per hour of tape to get a professional to do it for you with their equipment so the break-even point isn't that far off.

Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Nov 5, 2017

fishmech
Jul 16, 2006

by VideoGames
Salad Prong
Services like YesVideo offer videotape conversion at like $15 per 2 hours of content, and will have your videos placed onto an online storage they run for that cost. They'll then usually charge like $10 per DVD to have that content directly put on DVD if you don't trust the online storage and in any case thy mail the original tapes back to you.

A lot of stores like CVS and Wal-Mart have arrangements with them to drop off the tapes and come back in a few weeks to pick up DVDs if you ordered them and so on. It's basically cheaper than ever to have someone just go ahead and digitize all your stuff to you and have them encoded in a form that you can just slap on youtube or put on Facebook.

I've directed family members to that service in the past when they had tapes to get transferred and the quality of the encodes and stuff was top notch for the quality tapes come in as. I don't really think it's worth it anymore to try to hunt down a decent VHS deck and go throught he process of actually transferring them yourself, though it might still be worth iit if you've got like 600 hours of tape on hand that needs transferring.

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak

Hummer Driving human being posted:

I'm looking for receipt printers that can print datamatrix barcodes on them. I'd like to write a program that creates datamatrix barcodes of randomly generated numbers to after as keys. Many receipt printers only support certain barcode formats. Does anyone know if a printer could be forced or tricked into printing an unsupported barcode format through programming? Or will a printer simply be unable to print a format if it wasn't designed to support it?

https://www.brother.com.au/professional-label-printers/ql-800-detail

I use this at work. It has a program that you store images of each label, we use it for GS1 barcoding. I don't see any reason why you couldn't print out labels in the format you are using once it's all setup.

Labels are stored pretty much as an image and you can get assorted sizes of labels on rolls with pre-determined sizes.

Though if each label is going to be unique, it may not suit. That one is fine for us as we're just labeling a certain customer's product once a week, so it's a low volume use.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE

fishmech posted:

Services like YesVideo offer videotape conversion at like $15 per 2 hours of content, and will have your videos placed onto an online storage they run for that cost. They'll then usually charge like $10 per DVD to have that content directly put on DVD if you don't trust the online storage and in any case thy mail the original tapes back to you.

A lot of stores like CVS and Wal-Mart have arrangements with them to drop off the tapes and come back in a few weeks to pick up DVDs if you ordered them and so on. It's basically cheaper than ever to have someone just go ahead and digitize all your stuff to you and have them encoded in a form that you can just slap on youtube or put on Facebook.

I've directed family members to that service in the past when they had tapes to get transferred and the quality of the encodes and stuff was top notch for the quality tapes come in as. I don't really think it's worth it anymore to try to hunt down a decent VHS deck and go throught he process of actually transferring them yourself, though it might still be worth iit if you've got like 600 hours of tape on hand that needs transferring.

Oh yeah, at $7.50 per hour it's really not worth loving around with it yourself. That's like an order of magnitude less than I figured it would be. Again, unless you have like 600 hours of tapes, but even then it's probably worth just dropping a few grand to make the problem go away. You don't want to manually digitize 600 hours of video by yourself.

Volcott
Mar 30, 2010

People paying American dollars to let other people know they didn't agree with someone's position on something is the lifeblood of these forums.
I think I may have actually asked this somewhere on this forum at some point in the past, but I forgot what answer I was given and where I asked it. So, sorry for the repeat.

Gonna buy a 1060 within the month, there are single and dual fan models. If I have no intention of overclocking anything, the single fan version should keep everything cool enough even at 100%. Is that correct?

This is the exact card I'm looking at. - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487261

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE

Volcott posted:

I think I may have actually asked this somewhere on this forum at some point in the past, but I forgot what answer I was given and where I asked it. So, sorry for the repeat.

Gonna buy a 1060 within the month, there are single and dual fan models. If I have no intention of overclocking anything, the single fan version should keep everything cool enough even at 100%. Is that correct?

This is the exact card I'm looking at. - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487261

We just had the debate in the Parts Picking Thread. Basically the 1060 is cool enough that you can get away with a single-fan card as long as it's a decent vapor-chamber cooler like the EVGA SC cards and not just a slug cooler like the Zotac Minis. However, assuming the price is similar and you have the space, there is no reason to choose a single-fan card over a dual-fan card. The dual-fan cards are still cooler and quieter at a given TDP, and in Pascal "cooler" directly translates into "faster". It's worth let's say $20 extra, it's just not worth $60+ extra.

Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Nov 6, 2017

Volcott
Mar 30, 2010

People paying American dollars to let other people know they didn't agree with someone's position on something is the lifeblood of these forums.

Paul MaudDib posted:

We just had the debate in the Parts Picking Thread. Basically the 1060 is cool enough that you can get away with a single-fan card as long as it's a decent vapor-chamber cooler like the EVGA SC cards and not just a slug cooler like the Zotac Minis. However, assuming the price is similar and you have the space, there is no reason to choose a single-fan card over a dual-fan card. The dual-fan cards are still cooler and quieter at a given TDP. It's worth let's say $20 extra, it's just not worth $60+ extra.

Thank you for repeating yourself. I'll go try to find that first post now.

I really should wait until I'm actually ready to buy stuff before I ask these kinds of questions.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE

Volcott posted:

Thank you for repeating yourself. I'll go try to find that first post now.

Here you go.

Volcott posted:

I really should wait until I'm actually ready to buy stuff before I ask these kinds of questions.

Yes, absolutely, everything depends on price. There are no bad cards, only bad prices. You can still figure out a general sense of "I should only be willing to pay $X more for a 10xty Ti than a 10xty, and I should be willing to pay an extra $30 for a nicer cooler on card Z" but everything depends on what prices you can get things for.

Ularg
Mar 2, 2010

Just tell me I'm exotic.
Since I reset my PC it's been running fine. All I've been doing after installing some basic programs like Chrome/Steam/Discord has been downloading games. I went to restart my computer and it was hanging there at the Asus splashscreen for the longest time, for about 8 minutes. I boot to SSD and it's never had such a huge issue like that before.

After a bit I finally started to see that spinning icon for a second before it instantly went into windows like nothing happened.

Gromit
Aug 15, 2000

I am an oppressed White Male, Asian women wont serve me! Save me Campbell Newman!!!!!!!

feedmyleg posted:

I bought a VCR to watch some old family videos a little while back. Haven't used one in about a decade and a half so I'm a little confused by a nuance of the hardware. My parents would always film something, turn the camera off, fast forward across some blank tape, then record more. Unfortunately, my cheap little junk store VCR seems to turn off as soon as it detects blank tape. I can try to power through by holding down the fast-forward button but it doesn't always seem to work.

Is this just because the VCR is a POS and I need to buy a decent one, or is there some kind of setting I don't know about?

The only thing I know of that would cause a VCR to stop moving a tape is when the tape has tightened up so the mechanism thinks it has reached the end and shuts off. You could try retensioning them by fast-forwarding and rewinding each tape their entire length. Can you wind the tape manually by unlocking the cover and trying to turn the reel by hand? (It's been a LONG time - I *think* you need to unlock the tape cover to wind it any distance by hand.)

Kintamarama
Oct 3, 2013
I was thinking about getting an RGB fan to brighten up my Silverstone SG-13, but from looking online it seems as though they use a second cable that's supposed to plug into a RGB header/hub.

My motherboard is of a pre-RGB header vintage (Asrock B85m ITX) and the case is cramped enough that a hub/controller type thing would be a difficult fit. If I bought one and plugged it into a fan header only, would the LEDs not even switch on? Or does the RGB connecter only serve to control the LEDs, and not plugging it in puts the fans on some kind of default colour cycle?

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Kintamarama posted:

I was thinking about getting an RGB fan to brighten up my Silverstone SG-13, but from looking online it seems as though they use a second cable that's supposed to plug into a RGB header/hub.

My motherboard is of a pre-RGB header vintage (Asrock B85m ITX) and the case is cramped enough that a hub/controller type thing would be a difficult fit. If I bought one and plugged it into a fan header only, would the LEDs not even switch on? Or does the RGB connecter only serve to control the LEDs, and not plugging it in puts the fans on some kind of default colour cycle?

It depends on the RGB fan you're buying, but most of of them have one plug for the fan power and a separate one for the RGB LEDs. You'd need a controller to get the LEDs to light up at all. Single color LED fans don't have this issue since they don't need to know separate values for red, geen, and blue, they just get power and light up the LED.

Fart.Bleed.Repeat.
Sep 29, 2001

uhhhhhhh

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva
Most people are looking to remove those from cases, not the other way around. Probably better to get non-garbage fans and a RGB LED lightstrip so it's easier to remove when you eventually decide it looks terrible.

SlayVus
Jul 10, 2009
Grimey Drawer

Kintamarama posted:

My motherboard is of a pre-RGB header vintage (Asrock B85m ITX) and the case is cramped enough that a hub/controller type thing would be a difficult fit. If I bought one and plugged it into a fan header only, would the LEDs not even switch on? Or does the RGB connecter only serve to control the LEDs, and not plugging it in puts the fans on some kind of default colour cycle?
Usually the fans have two headers one for RGB one for fan controls. You can get a USB RGB fan controller for sound $40-70 and pick up phanteks RGB fan frames for $10-$20 a pop and just stick them over your existing fans, depending on model.

Something like this. http://www.cmstore-usa.com/rgb-led-controller/. I legitimately do not know if this would actually work with these specific RGB fan frames.
Then either of these.
$10 version

$20 version

Edit: I believe this route might be cheapest if you're looking at keeping it like under say $150. Two and three fan packs with controller can cost $100 on their own. For $40+how ever much for each fan. You could do 6 fans in RGB for $100.

SlayVus fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Nov 10, 2017

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak
The only reason I put a white led fan ins in my case was so that I could see if I dropped anything under my desk or where the top usb ports are when it's dark.

Kintamarama
Oct 3, 2013
I've come to realise that RGB fans are more involved than plug 'em in and go. As I mentioned in my first post, I don't know where I'd put a RGB controller in my SG-13, and from the cursory research I've done, I can't even tell if the different brands controllers are compatible with competitors fans.

I'm not interested in a basic LED fan either, as I would have liked the option to change the colour, or switch it off as I saw fit.

Thanks for your help SlayVus and Rexxed, though in the end you've ended up convincing me to drop the idea.

Ularg
Mar 2, 2010

Just tell me I'm exotic.
Yay even after a Windows 10 reset with no files saved my PC crashes. Completely fresh with new drivers, updates, and barely anything installed. Did it early September, was fine. Had one BSOD randomly a couple weeks ago, then another BSOD where it went away a second after it appeared (no way to read it) and now it's back to doing the hard freeze that shows a freeze frame and screams a buzzing sound from my speakers that tries to give me a panic attack.

Edit: Maybe there's a small chance that there's a conflict between Nvidia and Realtek HD Audio Controllers, as I found just one random person online recommend for just World of Warcraft. But as far as I can tell you should have both since Realtek drives audio through my Mobo speaker jacks, and Nvidia handles audio over HDMI. Since I have one set of speakers for my PC through my Mobo output, and one set of speakers for my TV using HDMI I want to have both if I can.

Ularg fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Nov 15, 2017

katkillad2
Aug 30, 2004

Awake and unreal, off to nowhere
Got a fan question for my new build, this is probably extremely pedantic. Hopefully this is the worst of my issues. So my motherboard has 3 spots to plug in a fan. Two are labled CPU fan and one is labled for the case. I'm using a Noctua NH-D15 for the CPU, which has two fans. One of the spots for the CPU fan on the motherboard has 4 pins and the other has 3, the case fan has 4 pins... But my case fan only has 3 pins and my CPU fans both take 4 pins :psyduck: Should I just plug in everything where it's labled to go or match each fan with the right amount of pins? The fan also came with an adapter thing to be able to plug both CPU fans into a single spot... I suspect I don't want to plug a CPU fan in the case fan spot, but the one CPU fan on the motherboard only having 3 pins is throwing me off.

The only other issue I'm having is I can't seem to get the connector from the power supply to the motherboard to fit all the way in, feels like I'm going to break my motherboard. I'm definitely doing it on the right side because it's got a lip for it to snap in that it's not reaching.

EssOEss
Oct 23, 2006
128-bit approved
4-pin fan headers are for using PWM mode speed control, which basically allows the controller to slow down the fan more before it stops entirely. 4 pins better.

4-pin fans are also able to operate from 3-pin headers - you just will not benefit from PWM and the PWM pin will simply be not used. Like this:



There should be little plastic guides centered on the 3 pins - the one that is offset is the one that should not be used.

And the reverse is also true - you can plug a 3-pin fan into a 4-pin header, you just might have to tell your motherboard firmware not to try to use the PWM mode for that fan (it should go at full speed all the time if motherboard thinks it uses PWM but it is actually not connected).

I would suggest following the labeling and using PWM where available.

Schiavona
Oct 8, 2008

My current rig (i5 sandy bridge) has 2x4GB of DDR3. I can add another 2x4GB for about a third of the cost of getting 2x8GB sticks. What are the downsides of running 4 sticks (two different brands, as well) instead of two larger sticks?

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

Schiavona posted:

My current rig (i5 sandy bridge) has 2x4GB of DDR3. I can add another 2x4GB for about a third of the cost of getting 2x8GB sticks. What are the downsides of running 4 sticks (two different brands, as well) instead of two larger sticks?
The modules are going to run at the timings and speeds of the slowest pair. Also the voltages need to match up, or at least have both kits running at the same voltage. Ideally you'd want to match everything as closely as possible.

Chuu
Sep 11, 2004

Grimey Drawer
Does thermal paste in the tube ever go bad? More specifically, I have some Arctic Silver 3 which is ~15 years old now, and it's still the expected consistency coming out of the syringe. Any reason not to keep using it?

apropos man
Sep 5, 2016

You get a hundred and forty one thousand years and you're out in eight!
I'd spend $5 to replace some 15 year old paste, but that's just me.

I'm not sure where my cut-off point would be for age. I'm guessing about 6.4 years.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE

Chuu posted:

Does thermal paste in the tube ever go bad? More specifically, I have some Arctic Silver 3 which is ~15 years old now, and it's still the expected consistency coming out of the syringe. Any reason not to keep using it?

Probably not, assuming you push out the first 1/8th inch that has dried out, but dude, why are you fretting over a $5 tube of thermal paste?

Faith For Two
Aug 27, 2015
How do I connect a computer to wifi if I only have an ethernet port?

No USB ports, no PCI slots, just an RJ45 jack. ~$200 budget. Prefer something from a big name company like Cisco or Linksys.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Arivia
Mar 17, 2011

Faith For Two posted:

How do I connect a computer to wifi if I only have an ethernet port?

No USB ports, no PCI slots, just an RJ45 jack. ~$200 budget. Prefer something from a big name company like Cisco or Linksys.

Get a good old WRT54GL (https://www.linksys.com/us/p/P-WRT54GL/), put it in wireless bridge mode, spend the $130 you have remaining on drugs.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply