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The gear lever on my 5spd 93 Capri has so much play that it doesn't completely center itself in neutral and vibrates loudly when in gear. That's probably the lower shift bushing, right? If it matters, it's the F series transmission, not G series The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Nov 22, 2017 |
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Nov 22, 2017 07:33
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kid sinister posted:There were 2 very steady drips on the bottom of the plate. I didn't see any smoke coming out of the oil cap hole. The oil I spilled on the exhaust manifold while filling it up however... I mean the more i think about it its not a vac leak. Applying vac to the crankcase isnt necessary at all. If its reading 19hg i just dont see how it cant handle venting very minimal blowby because thats still in the clear. So even if you have some minor problem that pcv valve is not doing its job. What temperature was it when it let go? Like its out there but it happens so is it possible moisture is freezing in that line or freezing the valve closed after start up sort of like carb icing? Imo vent that poo poo to atmosphere connecting it to the manifold is a death sentence anyways.
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Nov 22, 2017 10:17
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Deteriorata posted:Well, just spitballing some ideas. Maybe a bad oil pan gasket? High enough up that it wouldn't leak while sitting still, but sloshing/splashing while driving the oil could get to it. Maybe the oil filter gasket? Expands enough when hot to let some oil through. Could be any number of gaskets/seals. Ive seen an oil filter gasket let go and do this so ill second this and its not a bad bet if the oil drained almost completely.
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Nov 22, 2017 10:24
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DogonCrook posted:Ive seen an oil filter gasket let go and do this so ill second this and its not a bad bet if the oil drained almost completely. I didn't double-check to make sure the oil filter gasket came off with the filter once, and of course it stayed. Double-gaskets will dump oil at an impressive rate.
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Nov 22, 2017 15:39
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Godholio posted:That's a significant gap. I'd use some kind of bushing instead. Maybe it's more like a quarter inch, I was just ballparking it. Koyo aluminum radiator that doesn't fit in the mount pins as tightly as stock.
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Nov 22, 2017 16:42
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BlackMK4 posted:Recommendations on some kind of expanding foam tape for sealing the gap between a radiator and the radiator support? Half an inch or so thick will work If there is a good reason for the misfit, you could try window A/C foam...although I have no idea what heating/cooling cycles will eventually do to it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-1-1-4-in-x-1-1-4-in-x-42-in-Foam-Air-Conditioner-Weatherstrip-AC42H/100059869
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Nov 22, 2017 17:23
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I am looking to replace the stock cd player/radio in my 2006 impreza and need some advice on which system to buy. If there is a thread specific to car audio, let me know and I'll post there instead What I want: bluetooth for music streaming. Radio. A usb connection for charging/playing music. That's it - I don't need a cd player, a touch screen, or any other stuff; I have no idea which systems are good or not, or what a good price is for this, but I'd like to spend under $100 CAD if possible.
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Nov 22, 2017 18:17
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JawKnee posted:I am looking to replace the stock cd player/radio in my 2006 impreza and need some advice on which system to buy. If there is a thread specific to car audio, let me know and I'll post there instead I know nothing about cars or car stereos, but maybe try starting here: https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-bluetooth-car-stereo-receiver/ Even if you don't get their first recommendation, Wirecutter does a nice job walking through what to look for and other options. Edit: although it looks like it's been a while since that one has been updated. Still probably not a bad place to start.
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Nov 22, 2017 18:51
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JawKnee posted:I am looking to replace the stock cd player/radio in my 2006 impreza and need some advice on which system to buy. If there is a thread specific to car audio, let me know and I'll post there instead https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pionee...T&skuId=5621701 $40 my man. I have the same one and it works fine, pioneer is quality. Sorry thats a us website though, I tried bestbuy.ca and didnt see it on there. Alternately, heres the car audio thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3520908 Cage fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Nov 22, 2017 |
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Nov 22, 2017 18:53
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thanks, I'll have a look at those
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Nov 22, 2017 18:57
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PainterofCrap posted:If there is a good reason for the misfit, you could try window A/C foam...although I have no idea what heating/cooling cycles will eventually do to it. I'm not confident that stuff will stand up to vibration, that's why I suggested a bushing. You don't want that radiator unsupported.
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Nov 22, 2017 19:53
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JawKnee posted:I am looking to replace the stock cd player/radio in my 2006 impreza and need some advice on which system to buy. If there is a thread specific to car audio, let me know and I'll post there instead What size is the radio opening? You may need to get an adapter plate since most radios come in single DIN. If you're getting bluetooth, then you'll pretty much be getting hands free calling too, which might involve threading a microphone wire through your dash and finding a location to mount the mike. I like Crutchfield. They have a Canadian site, but their prices are high, or at least they are on their US site. However, their search functions are second to none and their instructions are great too. They can tell you exactly what tools you'll need to remove the stock radio (like on Fords), antenna plug adapters/extensions, etc. They also sell wire pigtails that will match up to your factory's radio plug. That way you don't have to cut and match wires inside the hole in the dash. Instead, you can match up wires on your desk with lots of light and space, then carry the radio over to plug it in. I guess use Crutchfield's site to find what you want, then see if you can find those parts cheaper elsewhere? DogonCrook posted:I mean the more i think about it its not a vac leak. Applying vac to the crankcase isnt necessary at all. Well it leaks oil, but only on the road. Either way, I did find a vacuum leak. When I was playing around with the rubber connectors to see if any were loose, the hard vinyl vacuum line going down to the fuel return valve snapped after barely touching it, twice. I also found that the rubber adapter for that line on the vacuum manifold side was torn up the edge pretty bad. Of course that rubber connector was something proprietary that fit 3 vac stubs at once... I took it off and replaced 2 of the connections with 2 inches or so of tubing, but the third was that broken vinyl line. Is there any issue with me replacing a hard vinyl vacuum line with rubber tubing? I made sure to tape it up and out of the way without pinching it shut. Oh, and just to make sure, I put clamps on both ends of the PCV vacuum line just to make sure that they sealed properly. I stuck a screwdriver up its stub too to clean it out but nothing came out. It was warm yesterday, like 60 degrees.
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Nov 22, 2017 20:45
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Well its vacuum so it can happen at well over freezing but it was a long shot anyways. Those hard vinyl lines are a nightmare high temp hose works fine i have no idea why they did that.
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Nov 22, 2017 20:53
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Take a chance on the cheap one? Theres a lot of pictures and I don't see anything different about this one. Vehicle is a rusty as hell 99 explorer and I'm just trying to keep it on the road another year or two.
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Nov 22, 2017 21:18
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The only thing id worry about is rust and finish but if you only want a year or two out of it thats what fuel filters are for lol.
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Nov 22, 2017 21:25
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Well poo poo. I drove my truck around for a few close errands, maybe 15 minutes tops. It still leaks oil out the rear seal. When I got home I sprayed starter fluid while it was idling all around the vacuum fittings and it didn't rev up, so I think that I don't have any vacuum leaks. I don't get it. What can make a truck leak oil only when it's moving?
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Nov 22, 2017 21:34
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Nov 22, 2017 21:41
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BlackMK4 posted:Anyone know 7th gen Civics well? Girlfriend's car is an 03 Civic EX automatic. Apparently, this is only happening when it's colder out (like... sub-50*), and goes away after the car warms up.
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Nov 22, 2017 21:41
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JawKnee posted:I am looking to replace the stock cd player/radio in my 2006 impreza and need some advice on which system to buy. If there is a thread specific to car audio, let me know and I'll post there instead  Ranger Stereo Swap 3 by Martin Brummell, on FlickrI put a JVC head unit in my '97 Ranger using 100% parts I bought at Canadian Tire because I had a free afternoon and I didn't want to wait a week or however long to get stuff from the internet. Five things were on my shopping list: 1. Head unit. (I paid about $90 for mine) 2. Connector from my head unit's brand to a universal intermediate. In practice, "universal" means whatever setup the manufacturer of the wire connector chooses. 3. Connector from that "universal" intermediate to Ford. 4. Space-filling dashboard surround to make my new single-DIN head unit fit properly into the big 2-DIN + 90's-everything-is-ovals Ford dashboard 5. Tools for head unit removal. EDIT: I just remembered that in this case, I was able to find a single wire set that connected the head unit to Ford, without an arbitrary intermediate. But I had to pick up a pack of crimp connectors to make it work. Total was about $150 or so. This was 2.5 years ago in Alberta. I was not looking for bluetooth so I don't know what's involved in setting that up. My requirements were CD player, USB, aux-in, and a proper pause button as well as a volume control that doesn't switch to something else if your clumsy hand waving around in a moving vehicle hits it too hard or at an angle or whatever. No-CD-player are called "mechless". For number 5, I ended up buying a more-or-less complete set of tools for any* OEM head unit, it was cheap at only twice the price of the Ford-specific ones. * Any of about 8 or 10 brands of car manufacturers. I swapped in a Sony unit in the Ford ute I had in Australia, using the same procedure (but a mix of about 3 different stores instead of Crappy Tire), the process was the same. Personally, I would not go with Sony again - the controls were awkward, it was too easy to accidentally be scrolling through a menu of dynamic-balance options when I was trying to turn down the volume. I have encountered people who believe there is only one type of head unit tool in existence, typically the tool that their buddy used to replace the OEM unit on his mid-80's shitbox, whatever that was. They get very confused when you show them your completely normal, entirely typical car. As usual, watch out for idiots and try to resist the urge to punch them. ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Nov 22, 2017 |
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Nov 22, 2017 21:55
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BlackMK4 posted:Apparently, this is only happening when it's colder out (like... sub-50*), and goes away after the car warms up. Ive never messed with one but those have a wierd iac system that coolant flows into and if you get a bubble in there it probably acts weird. May just need a cleaning. Im not sure if it is the same on that type of system but if its in park and the idle hunts while your turn the wheels especially at full lock its usually the iac. Not really sure if that works here though. Since it popped up right after messing with the coolant im kinda guessing here.
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Nov 22, 2017 22:58
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So I've been researching my oil leak, how an engine can leak oil out the back after the RMS has been replaced. Is anyone here familiar with Ford 302s? According to what I've found on the interwebs, one common consequence for failed PCV valves on the 302 is to also blow out the back of the lower intake gasket, which just so happens to be right above the RMS. Does that sound like it could be my problem? I've replaced the upper intake gasket a few times, but I've never done the lower. It looked like too much work in my book.
kid sinister fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Nov 23, 2017 |
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Nov 22, 2017 23:01
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kid sinister posted:So I've been researching my oil leak, how an engine can leak oil out the back after the RMS has been replaced. Is anyone here familiar with Ford 302s? According to what I've found on the interwebs, one common result for failed PCV valves is to also blow out the back of the lower intake gasket, which just so happens to be right above the RMS. Does that sound right? I've replaced the upper intake gasket a few times, but I've never done the lower. It looked like too much work in my book. Yep. Ford used cork intake end gaskets, which tended to push out from under the manifold and leak. E: replace them with a fat bead of RTV. Dagen H fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Nov 22, 2017 |
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Nov 22, 2017 23:04
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If the intake gasket leaks itll drop manifold pressure.
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Nov 22, 2017 23:15
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DogonCrook posted:If the intake gasket leaks itll drop manifold pressure. I think he’s talking about the part of the manifold that seals against the lifter valley, not part of the intake tract. It sounds plausible anyways.
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Nov 22, 2017 23:31
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PainterofCrap posted:If there is a good reason for the misfit, you could try window A/C foam...although I have no idea what heating/cooling cycles will eventually do to it. Godholio posted:I'm not confident that stuff will stand up to vibration, that's why I suggested a bushing. You don't want that radiator unsupported. Thanks, I stuffed something similar in between. This is the gap I was talking about, and I filled it with some foam. We will see how it holds up. Ideally, I'd like to find larger foam blocks to push down the vertical sides also.   DogonCrook posted:Ive never messed with one but those have a wierd iac system that coolant flows into and if you get a bubble in there it probably acts weird. May just need a cleaning. Im not sure if it is the same on that type of system but if its in park and the idle hunts while your turn the wheels especially at full lock its usually the iac. Not really sure if that works here though. Since it popped up right after messing with the coolant im kinda guessing here. Whaaaaat, that's hella fuckin weird. Might be that, as the hose there is what popped. I'll take a look tomorrow, thanks  Also, my headgasket tester came so I'll do that too.
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Nov 23, 2017 00:17
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BlackMK4 posted:Thanks, I stuffed something similar in between. This is the gap I was talking about, and I filled it with some foam. We will see how it holds up. Ideally, I'd like to find larger foam blocks to push down the vertical sides also. For that, honestly, I'd get a wide sheet of a thicker rubber to span it and use plastic clips to secure it in those holes on the top of the rad support, and just let it lay over the gap & against the radiator itself.
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Nov 23, 2017 00:37
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PainterofCrap posted:For that, honestly, I'd get a wide sheet of a thicker rubber to span it and use plastic clips to secure it in those holes on the top of the rad support, and just let it lay over the gap & against the radiator itself. Gaffer tape would probably hold to seal it and is very racecar. I know it can handle a good amount of heat but im not sure how it would hold up over a bunch of heat cycles though.
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Nov 23, 2017 01:24
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I had a little fender-bender yesterday and slid into another car. I bent the right side of my hood: Close-up:  What's the best way to straighten this out without removing the hood? The latching mechanism is fine and the hood seems secure.
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Nov 23, 2017 01:32
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I've been having trouble with my battery dying, tested my battery and got the alternator tested and both are checking out fine. Tested the draw with a multimeter and I got .6. I've read some conflicting things about what is acceptable in a modern car (its a 2003 ford explorer, fully loaded with an aftermarket stereo), someone said .75 is acceptable if you drive it every day on a modern vehicle, other places have said no more than 50 miliamps? So I'm not really sure what to think here? Would .6 really be a short killing my battery?
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Nov 23, 2017 02:17
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Wezlar posted:I've been having trouble with my battery dying, tested my battery and got the alternator tested and both are checking out fine. Tested the draw with a multimeter and I got .6. What about the cable? How about the clamp?
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Nov 23, 2017 02:38
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kid sinister posted:What about the cable? How about the clamp? Sorry, which cable/clamp and how should I go about testing them? I'm a real novice when it comes to auto repair.
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Nov 23, 2017 02:42
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Mister Kingdom posted:I had a little fender-bender yesterday and slid into another car. I bent the right side of my hood: Stand on it. I thought it the most horrible of ideas, until a goon upthread did just that and the results were...excellent.
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Nov 23, 2017 02:48
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Wezlar posted:I've been having trouble with my battery dying, tested my battery and got the alternator tested and both are checking out fine. Tested the draw with a multimeter and I got .6. 0.6 A is huge. 0.050 A (50 mA) is a good upper limit to shoot for. Give it a couple minutes to settle down before you test, though. Some cars have lights that are autodim, and the security system can draw a bit for a minute or so. First place to check would be the aftermarket stereo.
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Nov 23, 2017 02:51
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Wezlar posted:Sorry, which cable/clamp and how should I go about testing them? I'm a real novice when it comes to auto repair. Both of them. If you're that green... do either of your battery terminals look green? Is there a bunch of corrosion buildup on either one? Make sure that they're tight. For the record, for the overwhelming majority of cars, the negative one is really simple. It just connects to the metal frame. However, in recent decades manufacturers insist on adding extra connections directly to the battery terminal clamp. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Nov 23, 2017 |
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Nov 23, 2017 02:57
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Thanks for the help. Clamps are good and the terminals are clean, I'll check the battery cables tomorrow and run the multimeter again. If it really is .6 and I didn't gently caress up I guess it's time to start pulling fuses!
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Nov 23, 2017 03:20
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Mechanic tells me I need new rear brakes (shoes + cylinders). Order 'em and he'll install. Great. Except Rockauto has four different sizes for my car and I have no idea which I have. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mercury,1989,cougar,3.8l+232cid+v6,1198627,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+shoe,1688 Is it even possible to figure this out without taking the back wheels off again? (Which I'm not equipped to do)
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Nov 23, 2017 06:25
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Cage posted:https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pionee...T&skuId=5621701 I've put a Pioneer units in two of my cars in the last couple years, and they've been very solid.
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Nov 23, 2017 06:35
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The Civic threw a P0340 and P0341 today, so I'll replace the cam position sensor tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
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Nov 23, 2017 07:11
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n0tqu1tesane posted:I've put a Pioneer units in two of my cars in the last couple years, and they've been very solid. I had that pioneer unit for like 2 years in my old car. It was really quite nice for the price, Bluetooth setup was a bit finicky, but then out of nowhere it just died on me (radio still works though). Pioneer support in my case was absolutely worthless, didn't have a clue what might be wrong.
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Nov 23, 2017 12:52
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kid sinister posted:What about the cable? How about the clamp? Could it be the oil pan gasket? Like you're driving, and the oil kinda sloshes to the back, sides etc as you corner and accelerate?
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Nov 23, 2017 14:45
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