|
Neo_Crimson posted:At 1080p 144Hz, a GTX 1070 will be enough for the foreseeable future. I usually go for ASUS, have any other brands gone up in quality?
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2017 21:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 12:44 |
|
|
Admiral Joeslop posted:I usually go for ASUS, have any other brands gone up in quality? ASUS, MSI, and EVGA are the usual suspects and are still all good. Zotac has also made some good offerings in the past couple years.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2017 21:59
|
|
|
Admiral Joeslop posted:What are the super cool cases nowadays? I'm looking at this case but I wouldn't mind something in a different color like orange or purple. https://youtu.be/WdOYR30M-4c Gamers Nexus just did a round-up of a bunch of cases that are similarly priced to the one you linked,check it out.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2017 22:32
|
|
|
I’m looking for Christmas present ideas and will probably build a new PC 6-12 months from now but trying to figure out what components I could get now without losing value compared to getting it 6-12 months from now. I assume case and power supply would both fit that bill. Is there anything else that I could bank now? Maybe storage? Not looking for peripherals.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2017 23:36
|
|
|
gingerberger posted:I’m looking for Christmas present ideas and will probably build a new PC 6-12 months from now but trying to figure out what components I could get now without losing value compared to getting it 6-12 months from now. Case and power supply are probably fine, Samsung 850 EVO would likely be good as well.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2017 23:41
|
|
|
Cables and fans. Fan controllers/hubs. Non GPU pci devices like network cards. Cpu coolers
Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Nov 24, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 00:09
|
|
|
Looking at building a new PC for mostly gaming. I haven't build a PC since like 2005 and have been using some good laptops for my last couple computers. My current one is about 4 years old and starting to show its age, I also realized that I don't really travel with it as much as I expected so I figuired I'd go back to a desktop, and since all the black friday/cyber monday deals I'll be buying it this week. I'd like to stay under $900 but would be willing to bump up the price a bit for a good deal. I'd also like to stay with Amazon and Newegg to save on shipping as I'm in AK This is my current list, it's just a few parts modified from a featured list on PC part picker PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($49.99 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($154.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Crucial - MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($129.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING Video Card ($259.99 @ Amazon) Case: Thermaltake - Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($34.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: *Corsair - CXM (2015) 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($33.99 @ Newegg) Total: $853.93 Anything look stupid? Anything I'm missing? TheDon01 fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Nov 24, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 00:16
|
|
|
TheDon01 posted:Anything look stupid? Anything I'm missing? Change your PSU to this: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151186 Other than that, nothing's really jumping out at me as a bad choice.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 01:01
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:Change your PSU to this: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151186 That ones like $90 more. Do I need that extra wattage? PC part picker is estimating that build at only 270w is that not accurate or leaving off some other power draw?
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 01:11
|
|
|
It's actually $75 not including the rebate: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151186&ignorebbr=1
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 01:13
|
|
|
Llamadeus posted:It's actually $75 not including the rebate: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151186&ignorebbr=1 Ah cool, thanks. The cheap link seems backordered but I'm in no hurry to build, just want to take advantage of the holiday sales
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 01:15
|
|
|
Yeah, it was in stock earlier for $54.99 with the rebate, but obviously someone jumped on it wholesale and bought them out. Sorry.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 01:46
|
|
|
The 550W variant of that Seasonic unit would work fine as well. To restate a message from the OP - don't skimp on power supplies. Corsair's CX series is cheap but it comes with caveats that probably won't damage anything, but it's really not worth risking $800 worth of electronics that you will use for years to save like $50. Let me relate an anecdote. When I was a foolish young man, one summer I bought a very cheap power supply to replace another cheap power supply, which had died after a few years of operation. I bought it from a local brick and mortar store because I needed it now, darn it. When I plugged it in, the system seemed completely dead; fans would spin but it didn't even attempt to run the POST. At first I thought the old dying PSU had taken the motherboard with it, but borrowing the ATX connector from the PSU in dad's computer revealed that this was not the case - for whatever reason the motherboard would not accept that the new PSU was there. I went back to the brick and mortar store to attempt a warranty replacement, but they checked it with some testing gadget and claimed that it worked just fine. Since I was young and foolish I did not want to make a fuss and insist, so I went back home with it to try to troubleshoot it myself. Being a young man with lots of spare time and a desperate need to have his computer back, I armed myself with a multimeter and a copy of the ATX specification and started measuring voltages. It turned out that when a PSU starts up, it's supposed to deliver a set voltage (I believe it's 5v, don't remember) within +/- 5% or so to a pin called PWR_OK. This voltage was a tiny bit out of spec, by enough that my motherboard thought the PSU was broken and refused to attempt to power itself on. So, being - as mentioned - a very foolish young man driven both by video game abstinence and the most powerful of nerd motivations - the desire to prove someone wrong - I took a wirecutter to the PWR_OK line and used a paperclip to hook it up to one of the regular voltage pins on the ATX connector, which happened to be the correct voltage for the PWR_OK signal. And lo, I was proven right, because the drat thing booted up and worked. Naturally this wasn't a permanent solution, but having now proven those douches at the store wrong with science, I went back the next day to restate my case. And they of course refused to replace it because I had damaged it. Anyway, to make a long story short, after a lot of arguing they talked me into buying a Corsair VX550 at a discount as a "goodwill gesture" instead and since I was a dumbass I gave them more money because I wanted my computer back. This was around ten years ago now. That very same Corsair VX550 is still powering the computer under my desk today, many upgrades later. It will continue to do so until sometime next week, because I finally ordered a Seasonic Focus Plus to replace it the other day. We met on bad terms but have had a long and faithful relationship, and I think it has deserved its retirement. So, yeah, don't skimp on power supplies. A good one will last you a drat long time. Also, don't gently caress around with PSU wires. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Nov 24, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 01:51
|
|
|
Adding to PSU chat, only use the modular power cables that comes with the supply! The pinouts on the psu ends are not standard and sometimes will have voltages swapped around but the keying will still fit. Someone at work found this out when we transitioned from corsairs to evga power supplies and used the corsair cable on the evga psu (I think it was for the 4 pin molex). Blew a diode on an active cable. Had to label all the other cables to prevent others from doing the same.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 01:56
|
|
|
I linked the RMX a page or back. I would take a look at that. This forum has suggested it a few times. The 650w is cheaper than the 550w.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 02:11
|
|
|
Also, when you do get a modular PSU, store the extra leads someplace where you will not lose them. The reason for this is that PSU makers bank on you losing them, and their replacements are not sold piecemeal, and often cost more than you paid for the PSU unit itself. In the case of Seasonic PSUs, print out a copy of the sales invoice and put it along with the leads, since Seasonic are sticklers about proving your product is still under warranty.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 02:30
|
|
|
Modular just means they have extra connectors for uncommon/extra cards/drives right? You can choose how big of a wad of cables are attached?
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 02:45
|
|
|
TheDon01 posted:Modular just means they have extra connectors for uncommon/extra cards/drives right? You can choose how big of a wad of cables are attached? Yes, modular means you control how many leads you have running in your system. And really the only 'uncommon' connectors nowadays would be old-style 4-pin Molex connectors and the almost-never-included-anymore 3.5" floppy power connector.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 03:04
|
|
|
Here is my Dumb Trip Report Goons, Please share in my excitement for silicon semiconductors. The parts all arrived by tuesday!.  They barely fit on my tiny ikea table Hey look at this I5 thing. Im so god drat excited about economically priced CPUS https://i.imgur.com/zL1Ig2G  This fan was overkill for that CPU, but it looks cool so fight me. https://imgur.com/jI7X29r it bOOted up FIRST Time!  Got the windows key from the goon in SA Mart, Windows 10 has been a little strange for me. I haven't really used it much. (been on windows 7 forever) First thing, Edge would crash upon loading any webpage that wasn't a big search engine. Had to use IE to get my drivers. Second. My hard drives would make a clicking noise every 20 seconds or so. They were working absolutely perfect on my windows 7 build. So that was really strange. I think it was the power mode? They were slowing down and stopping the platters to save some electricity or something. After doing some research I changed the power setting to performance mode, and uninstalled the Intel rapid storage driver. and that seemed to fix them. Any one else experience this? And lastly, I keep getting a temporary folder on my desktop that is named "Removable storage device" it goes away upon desktop refresh, but that just seems like a silly problem. Also I tried the windows app version of Instagram and it was mega broken and would just crash. Is just just how Win10 operates? Everything else works fine so far.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 04:49
|
|
|
It should also be noted that that's the Cryorig H7, the smaller of their three tower-style HSFs. Only the M9 unit is smaller
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 05:16
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:It should also be noted that that's the Cryorig H7, the smaller of their three tower-style HSFs. Only the M9 unit is smaller Now imagine putting it on top of a tiny mini-ITX motherboard like I did. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 05:29
|
|
|
Would this thing be any good as a web browsing machine for my mom? Or is it just gonna be total junk for that price
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 05:54
|
|
|
Sorry to be a bother, but I'm looking to upgrade from an old GTX 750TI that had 2GB of vram. Currently Newegg has an MSI 1060 with 6GB of ram like the OP suggests as the minimum on sale for 250 bucks with black friday stuff. My question is if it's gonna be a decent upgrade for that price, or if I should just hold out. I typically game at 1600x900 with AA off, but I'm very picky and like textures to be sharp so I figured jump from 2 to 4 gigabytes of memory would help with that. Good buy or not? I'm not dead set on grabbing it if there's something better value elsewhere or cheaper, I'm just tired of needing to run newer games at lower settings beyond AA and resolution. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 06:13
|
|
|
Koramei posted:Would this thing be any good as a web browsing machine for my mom? Or is it just gonna be total junk for that price I'd honestly recommend this if you need an absolute bottom-dollar system: https://www.techbargains.com/deal/69355/dell-inspiron-3000-deals It even has a "why doesn't it have a CD/disc drive" drive. Kitfox88 posted:Good buy or not? I'm not dead set on grabbing it if there's something better value elsewhere or cheaper, I'm just tired of needing to run newer games at lower settings beyond AA and resolution. A 1060 will feed 1440p @ 60Hz perfectly fine, so at 1600x900 it'll run like a bat out of hell with pretty much every bell and whistle turned on. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 06:54 on Nov 24, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 06:52
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:A 1060 will feed 1440p @ 60Hz perfectly fine, so at 1600x900 it'll run like a bat out of hell with pretty much every bell and whistle turned on. Kickass, I was hoping to hear something like that. Thanks a ton man.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 07:01
|
|
|
For anyone looking at Black Friday sales, GamersNexus (a good website this subforum generally swears by) has put out a roundup of good deals on components worth your money: https://youtu.be/HIL9K3KtwJw
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 07:22
|
|
|
Kitfox88 posted:Kickass, I was hoping to hear something like that. Thanks a ton man. I should note that I'm talking about a 6GB 1060. It might be tempting to snag the 3GB, but you'll end up paying more in the end when you have to upgrade it sooner. You're not going to be on a 1600x900 display forever.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 07:59
|
|
|
Yeah, the one on black friday deal is the 6GB, i made sure to filter them down. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 08:04
|
|
|
Arivia posted:For anyone looking at Black Friday sales, GamersNexus (a good website this subforum generally swears by) has put out a roundup of good deals on components worth your money: https://youtu.be/HIL9K3KtwJw Edit: I'm an idiot
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 08:05
|
|
|
Kitfox88 posted:Sorry to be a bother, but I'm looking to upgrade from an old GTX 750TI that had 2GB of vram. Currently Newegg has an MSI 1060 with 6GB of ram like the OP suggests as the minimum on sale for 250 bucks with black friday stuff. My question is if it's gonna be a decent upgrade for that price, or if I should just hold out. I typically game at 1600x900 with AA off, but I'm very picky and like textures to be sharp so I figured jump from 2 to 4 gigabytes of memory would help with that. It's an ok buy... * on the plus side it's way cheaper than that GPU has been since like 10 months ago (because Bitcoin). * on the negative side, 1060 6gb was selling for $250 at or shortly after launch and that was a year and a half ago, so you're paying full launch price for a lower-midrange card near the end of the lifecycle * on the third hand, your 750 is ancient and if you want to replace it now is a good time If you have budget constraints, or you're thinking about saving towards a bigger rebuild in the future, this 1050ti is $100 cheaper, on sale, and would still be a substantial upgrade. At 1600x900 it's not much of a downgrade from a 1060.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 08:48
|
|
|
He's not going to be on a 900p display forever, though - and a 6GB 1060 gives him a comfort level to pick up an ever-becoming-cheaper 60Hz 1440p display in the near future and drastically increase his screen real estate without having to worry *too* much about framerates.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 08:58
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:He's not going to be on a 900p display forever, though - and a 6GB 1060 gives him a comfort level to pick up an ever-becoming-cheaper 60Hz 1440p display in the near future and drastically increase his screen real estate without having to worry *too* much about framerates. yeah it kinda depends on future things that only he knows, and may not even have answers for himself. like what else is in his pc, when he might get a new screen soon or not, and whether he's more apt to save up to do a big build at once vs piecemeal upgrades. but a 1050ti isn't terrible, does 1080p competently if he does a low-end screen upgrade*, and is on a straight line with the 1060 for value. *not saying this is a good idea, 1440s are not expensive and so much better 1060 is a good card, I've been very happy with mine (on a 1440 screen) for more than a year... for that same $250. personally, I react to the general trend of prices not dropping after more than a year on the shelves by resisting spending my money. but that's just me.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 09:25
|
|
|
I'm on a 1920x1080 right now and was on a 1024x768 CRT until a few years ago when it finally died, so chances are I'll be on this display till it dies too. I just run games windowed at 1600x900 because I like having access to discord and my browser and stuff in case I get messaged or whatever. If that's the case, do you guys think the 4GB card would be okay to use instead, cause I'm not against having a hundred more bucks in my pocket in exchange for continuing to do what I'm gonna be doing for the foreseeable future. As for upgrades, my last full build from scratch was 2012 and that was done with 2ish year old parts at the time. Money for cutting edge I do not and likely will not have anytime soon, so I just piecemeal upgrade as the chance or need arises, like last winter when my trash motherboard died and I had an excuse to upgrade from a Phenom 2 to a i5. Like, the main reason I want to upgrade is I flat out cannot run newer stuff like PREY or DOOM or the newer Wolfenstein games acceptably even on lower settings, and I'd like to be able to play them with them looking decent. To me 1600x900 is still just fine, it's mostly that I hate blurry textures so I would like to keep that poo poo sharp. So I guess to sum up this post, will the 1050Ti let me play stuff like DOOM and Wolfenstein New Order/New Colossus with high-ish settings and no AA at 1600x900
Kitfox88 fucked around with this message at 12:49 on Nov 24, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 10:29
|
|
|
Admiral Joeslop posted:I tried to figure out what the hell a machine learning case is and my brain told me to stop.  It uses some algorithms to "learn" optimal fan speed curves. Probably by taking RPM and temperatures into consideration, since it supposedly doesn't have a microphone. You basically need to put it on idle, or stress the CPU when prompted by the software.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 13:54
|
|
|
alex314 posted:
It requires an internet connection to do it because it sends your temperature readings to ~the cloud~ to use ~machine learning~ to optimize your air flow. Naturally, it’s pretty typical Internet of poo poo quality software and every review I’ve seen has blasted it for being buggy and weird. The consensus seems to be that it’s a great case in almost every respect except for that “smart” fan controller.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 14:02
|
|
|
In non-LED cases: anyone has experience with Nanoxia Deep Silence series? Looks like a nice alternative to Fractal Design Define.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 14:31
|
|
|
Hello goons, I was looking into upgrading my i7-2600k to an i5-8400 but then realized my mobo has an 1155 socket. I currently have an Asus p8p67Pro rev 3.1, do you guys have any recommendations for an upgrade with an 1151 socket? I haven't upgraded my PC in about 6 years now and have no idea what I'm looking for in terms of quality for price. Budget is max $300 if I can help it. I'm located in the U.S. and my build is here: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/F7gQTH
Oglogoth fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Nov 24, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 15:00
|
|
|
I posted this in the hardware questions thread but it might get more traction in here.Zigmidge posted:Is there a way to select which monitor your motherboard displays the post and bios to? It's a bit of a pain to have to swap from my desk to the couch so I can do bios work from the TV. My 2 minutes of googling didn't get me anything. I did a bit more reading and it seems like this is a video card custom firmware-only thing? I have no idea.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 15:13
|
|
|
So a guy at worked asked me to help him with a PC hes buying for his kids, some site sent him this list of parts as a recommendation, was wondering if someone could take a look and see if there could be any improvments, budget is around £500. His kids want to do some gaming and maybe some video editing. Case PCS ENIGMA 6003B BLACK CASE Processor (CPU) AMD Ryzen 3 1200 Quad Core CPU (3.1GHz-3.4GHz/10MB CACHE/AM4) Motherboard ASUS® PRIME A320M-K: Micro-ATX, AM4, USB 3.0, 6GB/s Memory (RAM) 8GB HyperX FURY DDR4 2133MHz (1 x 8GB) Graphics Card 2GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GT 1030 - DVI, HDMI Hard Disk 1TB SATA-III 3.5" HDD, 6GB/s, 7200RPM, 32MB CACHE DVD/BLU-RAY Drive 24x DUAL LAYER DVD WRITER ±R/±RW/RAM Power Supply CORSAIR 350W VS SERIES™ VS-350 POWER SUPPLY They also quoted some lovely monitor and keyboard but im donating a better monitor to him out of my personal kit.
|
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 15:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 12:44 |
|
|
Any catches with this motherboard? $179 after all the rebates seems really cheap for the 'tier', which is why it caught my eye. I was between this and taichi. I just noticed it has like 11 reviews and wasn't sure if it was some gutted version or if I should bite. Would appreciate any feedback: Main uses are heavy gaming, while also having a ton of spreadsheets/tabs open. ~$800 or so was my goal, does this look like a pretty good price/performance ratio? CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K ($414) Motherboard: GIGABYTE Z370 AORUS Gaming 7 (rev. 1.0) LGA 1151 (300 Series) Intel Z370 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 ATX Intel Motherboard ($179) Memory: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Intel Z170 Platform ($159.99) CPU Cooler: ??? Haven't really looked into this yet, heard that noctura one is good. Open to suggestions Cannibalizing: 1070 144hz monitor power 1tb ssd Meow Tse-tung fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Nov 24, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2017 15:32
|
|
