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Zigmidge posted:I posted this in the hardware questions thread but it might get more traction in here. One workaround would be to just get a steam link... It's only around 12$ with shipping now. This way you don't have to have your tv connected to the pc directly.
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Nov 24, 2017 15:36
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Meow Tse-tung posted:Any catches with this motherboard? $179 after all the rebates seems really cheap for the 'tier', which is why it caught my eye. I was between this and taichi. I just noticed it has like 11 reviews and wasn't sure if it was some gutted version or if I should bite. Would appreciate any feedback: Main uses are heavy gaming, while also having a ton of spreadsheets/tabs open. ~$800 or so was my goal, does this look like a pretty good price/performance ratio? Gigabyte have a bit of a reputation in terms of quality would be the main thing about that MoBo
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Nov 24, 2017 15:40
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ughhhh posted:One workaround would be to just get a steam link... It's only around 12$ with shipping now. This way you don't have to have your tv connected to the pc directly. I'm not made of money to throw at software problems.
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Nov 24, 2017 15:47
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Hey y'all, I'm in the US and I'm looking to take advantage of some Black Friday/Cyber Monday deals and such and looking for some possible upgrades. I benchmarked my system on UserBenchmark and I'm kinda annoyed at how my same parts are performing relative to other users with the same setups UserBenchmarks: Game 30%, Desk 34%, Work 24% CPU: AMD Athlon II X4 860K - 39.8% GPU: Nvidia GTX 1050 Ti - 38.8% HDD: WD WD10EADX-00TDHB0 1TB - 35.2% RAM: Crucial BLS4G3D1609DS 2x4GB - 26.3% MBD: Gigabyte GA-F2A88XM-D3H I figure my MOBO is an obvious bottleneck for any improvement--and to be honest I don't push my computer too hard; I do some gaming but it's mostly like, Paradox games, Football Manager and WoW, so I don't need a super gaming PC or anything. That said, my memory is what's annoying me, I'm apparently in the 7th percentile but using the most recommended memory--what gives? Also a SSHD seems like a no brainer so I'm snagging one at the moment. Is the best use case for one right away to do a fresh OS install on the SSHD? Cheers
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Nov 24, 2017 16:04
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CyberPingu posted:Gigabyte have a bit of a reputation in terms of quality would be the main thing about that MoBo Would it be enough to deter the purchase and go with something 'safer' like the taichi? I had thought gigabyte had turned around in the last few years, and MSI was the only thing to really steer clear of? Ultimately I just want the better/more reliable product and they're in the same price range. Meow Tse-tung fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Nov 24, 2017 |
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Nov 24, 2017 16:12
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CyberPingu posted:So a guy at worked asked me to help him with a PC hes buying for his kids, some site sent him this list of parts as a recommendation, was wondering if someone could take a look and see if there could be any improvments, budget is around £500. His kids want to do some gaming and maybe some video editing. Single stick of memory is generally poor choice. I've used GBP/USD conversion and added 25% for VAT and stuff. PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZfqB8K Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZfqB8K/by_merchant/ CPU: AMD - Ryzen 3 1200 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($99.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($49.99 @ Newegg) Memory: ADATA - 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($84.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital - Blue 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Video Card ($154.88 @ OutletPC) Case: Raidmax - Vortex ATX Mid Tower Case ($15.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair - CX (2017) 450W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($21.98 @ Newegg) Optical Drive: Lite-On - iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer ($10.99 @ Newegg Marketplace) Total: $518.79 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-24 10:18 EST-0500 If you've got a budget then bump RAM to 2x8GB. Storage HDD can be added anytime and SSD is incredible upgrade in perceived speed. Case is more of a placeholder, it'd be better to ask a kid what he/she likes.
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Nov 24, 2017 16:29
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alex314 posted:Single stick of memory is generally poor choice. I've used GBP/USD conversion and added 25% for VAT and stuff. Cheers, yeah thats in line with the stuff i was going to advise. Ive got a spare HDD if he wants the extra storage that i could throw in for him
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Nov 24, 2017 16:33
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I'm about to pull the trigger on a new mobo-cpu-memory combo to upgrade a PC I put together some 6 years ago. It's currently running windows 10 on a Samsung 840 EVO (1TB). Am I going to have any trouble if I just plug the drive as-in into the new system or am I going to have to go through the whole reinstall windows routine? I'm guessing at the very least I will have to re-do the product license activation but I think it's linked to my MS account so I should be good on that front.
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Nov 24, 2017 16:48
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I did that once between two motherboards within the same chipset family and it still was unstable. It was back in X58 days, but on Windows 10, and I doubt it'll work any better now.
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Nov 24, 2017 17:10
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CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor ($414.89 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: Gelid Solutions - SnowStorm 66.3 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.89 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock - Z370 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($121.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($196.96 @ Amazon) Storage: Hitachi - Deskstar NAS 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($154.99 @ Newegg Marketplace) Case: Corsair - 450D ATX Mid Tower Case ($103.49 @ Newegg) Anything jump out as out of place here? I have a monitor, ssd, video card and power supply already although I'm not sure how old the power supply is. How often should you replace power supplies?
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Nov 24, 2017 17:38
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Tagichatn posted:CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor ($414.89 @ B&H) You can get a 7700K kaby lake for 290$ today for black Friday at new egg. Can get that mother super high for cheaper than the 8700k. You also get assassin's Creed origin as well which I will buy from you if you don't like those games https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E1...D=pcg-579482032 When I upgrade I usually look at the current situation when I upgrade chipsets and see if the CPUs are especially hungry .
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Nov 24, 2017 17:58
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Any good prebuilt gaming PCs for under $1,000 today?
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Nov 24, 2017 18:01
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alex314 posted:I did that once between two motherboards within the same chipset family and it still was unstable. It was back in X58 days, but on Windows 10, and I doubt it'll work any better now. On the other hand I just went from intel (older i5) to Ryzen and windows 10 didn't give a gently caress. It did some set up stuff on first boot.
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Nov 24, 2017 18:43
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Any obvious blunders before I pull the trigger? Looking to move to 1440p in the new year, and ive got a bit of cash burning a hole in my pocket. Mobo pick based of that picture posted earlier in the thread, hence not the cheapest. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-8600K 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor (Ł268.74 @ Aria PC) CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler (Ł79.99 @ Scan.co.uk) Motherboard: MSI - Z370 GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (Ł173.27 @ Amazon UK) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (Ł174.91 @ Box Limited) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Ł125.94 @ Aria PC) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB SC2 Gaming iCX Video Card (Ł539.99 @ Scan.co.uk) Case: Corsair - 270R ATX Mid Tower Case (Ł50.00 @ Amazon UK) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Ł86.99 @ Scan.co.uk) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (Ł99.99 @ Amazon UK) Total: Ł1599.82 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-24 17:48 GMT+0000
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Nov 24, 2017 18:52
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if you get a higher wattage PSU than you need, will it always eat up a bunch of extra power, or will it only take what it needs? I saw there's a sale on EVGA ones: https://www.evga.com/BF2017/ but the ones with the wattage more in range with what I think I'd actually need all look like the cheap kind everyone says to avoid?
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Nov 24, 2017 18:53
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Koramei posted:if you get a higher wattage PSU than you need, will it always eat up a bunch of extra power, or will it only take what it needs? It’s actually best to get a power supply with more power capacity than you need; they’re most efficient when not maxed out. It will only draw the power needed for your computer and will not waste extra energy.
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Nov 24, 2017 19:03
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Jihad Me At Hello posted:Any good prebuilt gaming PCs for under $1,000 today? I'm looking at this, which is super cheap ($579) but probably below what you want in performance if $1000 is your price point https://www.amazon.com/CYBERPOWERPC-GXIVR8020A4-Desktop-i5-7400-7200RPM/dp/B0747W15QL/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 I kinda want to pull the trigger because I'm starting from nothing (no monitor, no Windows, no keyboard, nothing), but I don't know. I wanted to put something together! Any obvious red flags besides the cooling + power supply, which I guess is always a problem with prebuilds? How well does this kind of machine age?
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Nov 24, 2017 19:46
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Any good deals on GPU today? Looking to upgrade from a 660 to a 1060 or so
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Nov 24, 2017 19:51
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Tagichatn posted:CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor ($414.89 @ B&H) I just did a similar purchase and that ram is cheaper on NewEgg: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231941 . The gray is sold out but the black color is $154. Here's what I did: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor ($414.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($88.95 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus - ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($202.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($247.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design - Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($135.98 @ Newegg) Total: $1350.88 Bringing over the GPU, case fans and an additional 500gb SSD. Doh004 fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Nov 24, 2017 |
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Nov 24, 2017 20:05
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PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock - AB350 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($54.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($159.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Dual Video Card ($249.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($83.98 @ Newegg) Total: $738.94 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-24 14:01 EST-0500 Does that look ok for a kind of bargainy build? I'm only trying to run older Blizzard games and probably only at 1080p, maybe 1440p at most. Could I go cheaper on the video card or RAM and still be ok or is this kind of the minimum for a computer that'll last another ~5 years.
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Nov 24, 2017 20:08
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Well, half asking myself, this PSU is decent right? It's the one I'm thinking of getting https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=220-G2-0650-Y1 if it is, it's 100w higher than the one you're thinking of and $20 less Arivia posted:It’s actually best to get a power supply with more power capacity than you need; they’re most efficient when not maxed out. It will only draw the power needed for your computer and will not waste extra energy. Oh sweet, thanks.
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Nov 24, 2017 20:11
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Koramei posted:if you get a higher wattage PSU than you need, will it always eat up a bunch of extra power, or will it only take what it needs? It will use only what it needs. If you have a very overdimensioned one though, you'll probably lose a few percentage points efficiency, but it's almost completely insignificant in practice - we're talking about like five to ten watts here, tops (PSU's tend to reach peak efficiency around 50% load; at very low loads they're least efficient but since the draw is so low in absolute terms it doesn't really matter). Most of the good ones don't really come in sizes smaller than around 5-600W so that's usually what you'll end up getting. Those prices are really good so get a GQ or G2 or whichever (why does EVGA have so many different PSU lines?) and it'll probably last you ten years. e: Koramei posted:Well, half asking myself, this PSU is decent right? It's the one I'm thinking of getting https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=220-G2-0650-Y1 Yep that's one of the good ones. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Nov 24, 2017 |
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Nov 24, 2017 20:15
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Koramei posted:if you get a higher wattage PSU than you need, will it always eat up a bunch of extra power, or will it only take what it needs? A high quality PSU will be relatively equal in efficiency across most of it's range. The 80-Plus cert actually has the highest requirements at 50% of max load. So a 650 watt PSU may well be more than you need, or even more than you need at half it's capacity. But there's a lot of marketing and comparison shopping these days because so many companies are making* high quality PSUs now. If EVGA has a model that they want to be gold-rated efficient with a max 1000w at the top end, a 500w version of the same thing might not be worth making. Either because there's no price space to sell it in, or changing out even more components to cheaper, lower-spec version would take too much factory line time. *(or rather, speccing from the chinese plants)
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Nov 24, 2017 20:32
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Tagichatn posted:How often should you replace power supplies? If you buy the good ones that come with a 7-10 year warranty (Seasonic offers 10 years on their stuff in the $80-90 range which is one of the reasons they get recommended so much), when that warranty expires is a good time to consider starting to look for a new one. The power generating parts themselves will probably last at least another ten years after that, but fans tend to be less durable and  a year (or less) isn't that much of a cost to keep your computer running. Also, always replace (under warranty if possible) a PSU that starts making funny noises (crackling, buzzing, weird fan noises, etc).
TheFluff fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Nov 24, 2017 |
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Nov 24, 2017 20:35
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Doh004 posted:I just did a similar purchase and that ram is cheaper on NewEgg: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231941 . The gray is sold out but the black color is $154. Cool, thanks for the tip! TheFluff posted:If you buy the good ones that come with a 7-10 year warranty (Seasonic offers 10 years on their stuff in the $80-90 range which is one of the reasons they get recommended so much), when that warranty expires is a good time to consider starting to look for a new one. The power generating parts themselves will probably last at least another ten years after that, but fans tend to be less durable and Yeah, I just checked and mine is 6 years old and a 3 year warranty. Looks like new ones aren't too expensive either so I'll probably pick up one of those EVGA ones. Tagichatn fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Nov 24, 2017 |
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Nov 24, 2017 20:40
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PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor ($414.89 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15S 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($78.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock - Z370 Extreme4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($154.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ B&H) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC2 Video Card ($739.99 @ Amazon) Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($84.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz) Monitor: Dell - AW3418DW 34.1" 3440x1440 120Hz Monitor ($999.99 @ Dell) Total: $2808.70 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-24 14:54 EST-0500 Going to start pulling the trigger on buying components. Just want one last look over to be sure everything is okay. Edit: Pulled it and managed to order everything. Digital Jedi fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Nov 25, 2017 |
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Nov 24, 2017 21:01
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flightless greeb posted:PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant The 1600 is a competitive chip that probably won't fall off the face of the Earth performance wise (especially OC'ed). 1080p with the 1060 is a fine combo. You'll probably run out of GPU before CPU. As for the ram 3000/3200 is where you want to be with Ryzen unfortunately. If you're looking to play at 1440@60fps the 1060 6gb will do that (depending on title) less gpu probably won't.
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Nov 24, 2017 21:24
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Digital Jedi posted:PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant That looks great and there are only two things I can think of that I might (or might not) have done differently: - NVMe SSD instead of SATA (another $100 for a modest benefit, but when you're spending close to $3k...) - Smaller case, probably - full towers seem kinda silly to me now since you barely put anything in them these days. Cases are definitely a matter of taste though.
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Nov 24, 2017 21:50
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What do you guys think of this MSI board here, compared to this ASRock here. I'm leaning towards the MSI because of the USB 3.1 ports and it's only ~$30 more after rebates.
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Nov 24, 2017 22:07
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Koramei posted:Would this thing be any good as a web browsing machine for my mom? Or is it just gonna be total junk for that price That was a poo poo-tier PC even when it was new, and now it's 6 years old. On the other hand it's sub-$100, and you kinda take what you can get in that price bracket. Browsing the internet is no longer an "easy" task, every day engineers are innovating exciting new ways to make browsers run like poo poo. BIG HEADLINE posted:I'd honestly recommend this if you need an absolute bottom-dollar system: https://www.techbargains.com/deal/69355/dell-inspiron-3000-deals If you're going to pony up $200-300 for a system, a used Z400 or Z420 isn't a bad choice either - and regardless, you have a lot more options in that price range. But it's not hard to find a Z400 or Z420 with a nice spec (quad or hexacore processor, 16-32 GB of RAM, etc), and RAM is one area you kinda get nickle-and-dimed on with RAM prices the way they are these days. A SSD will help a lot either way, and you'll usually need to add one yourself, because flash prices are bad too. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Nov 24, 2017 |
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Nov 24, 2017 22:12
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I've been set a task to build a new home office computer for my mom to replace her current behemoth of a space heater with something small and power-efficient, with lots of storage and dual-monitor capability. I see there's a scant few motherboards with built-in dual HDMI outputs, is there any reason to avoid those? Her monitors may or may not have HDMI ports, but they do use DVI so we can just get a couple adapters if need be. Alternately, do any remotely modern mobos have dual DVI built-in? E: She absolutely does not play videogames, almost entirely just web browsing and Excel stuff. Rough overall budget is $500, but it's by no means a hard cap. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Nov 24, 2017 |
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Nov 24, 2017 22:57
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Since people are talking about power supplies B&H has a deal for a EVGA G2 650W for $70 - $20 rebate, so $50 total with free shipping. It's a better deal than the current one that EVGA is offering directly if you can stand going through the rebate process. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1285899-REG/evga_220_g2_0650_y1_nex_supernova_650g_gold.html
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Nov 24, 2017 22:59
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Enourmo posted:I've been set a task to build a new home office computer for my mom to replace her current behemoth of a space heater with something small and power-efficient, with lots of storage and dual-monitor capability. I see there's a scant few motherboards with built-in dual HDMI outputs, is there any reason to avoid those? Her monitors may or may not have HDMI ports, but they do use DVI so we can just get a couple adapters if need be. Alternately, do any remotely modern mobos have dual DVI built-in? I strongly doubt there are any dual DVI motherboards. The dual HDMI ones are usually small form factor ones (ITX) intended for HTPC’s and the like, and for your use case that’s exactly what you want. Other than that they’re usually the same as a full ATX board except with fewer PCIe and RAM slots. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Nov 24, 2017 |
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Nov 24, 2017 23:09
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TheFluff posted:I strongly doubt there are any dual DVI motherboards. The dual HDMI ones are usually small form factor ones (ITX) intended for HTPC’s and the like, and for your use case that’s exactly what you want. Other than that they’re usually the same as a full ATX board except with fewer PCIe and RAM slots. Yeah, my personal rig uses an ITX board so I'm familiar. I'm currently waiting to hear back on whether she needs optical drive capability, since most ITX cases don't have a slot for them. Once I have that I should be good to put together a more comprehensive parts list.
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Nov 24, 2017 23:16
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rex rabidorum vires posted:The 1600 is a competitive chip that probably won't fall off the face of the Earth performance wise (especially OC'ed). 1080p with the 1060 is a fine combo. You'll probably run out of GPU before CPU. As for the ram 3000/3200 is where you want to be with Ryzen unfortunately. If you're looking to play at 1440@60fps the 1060 6gb will do that (depending on title) less gpu probably won't. Ryzen likes higher RAM clocks, no doubt, but you're looking at <5% performance going from 2666 to 3200 (all other things being equal). If you can snag 3000/3200 RAM for a few bucks more, by all means, do it but don't spend more than 5% of your total system budget on higher RAM speeds because you won't actually see the increase in performance. At 1080p, you're still going to be GPU-bound for most games and the 1600 when OC'd is plenty fast for the vast majority.
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Nov 24, 2017 23:16
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FooF posted:Ryzen likes higher RAM clocks, no doubt, but you're looking at <5% performance going from 2666 to 3200 (all other things being equal). If you can snag 3000/3200 RAM for a few bucks more, by all means, do it but don't spend more than 5% of your total system budget on higher RAM speeds because you won't actually see the increase in performance. At 1080p, you're still going to be GPU-bound for most games and the 1600 when OC'd is plenty fast for the vast majority. Ryzen gains more from increased RAM speeds than Intel platforms do because the Infinity Fabric is tied to the RAM clock. You gain far more than 5% gains from better RAM on Ryzen because it literally speeds up the entire system.
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Nov 24, 2017 23:22
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Tagichatn posted:CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor ($414.89 @ B&H) The Cyrorig H7 will perform better than that Gelid Hyper 212 clone, for about the same price. Also consider stepping up to the Extreme4 ASRock board - it has better power handling. And definitely go with the 8700K - not sure what the other guy was saying about overclocking a 7700K more. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Nov 25, 2017 |
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Nov 24, 2017 23:33
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Feedback on this build is appreciated. Intel Core i7-7700K Kaby Lake Quad-Core 4.2 GHz LGA 1151 91W BX80677I77700K Desktop Processor https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117726 Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099 ASUS ROG STRIX Z270F GAMING LGA 1151 Intel Z270 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 ATX Motherboards - Intel https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132930 ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 TURBO-GTX1080-8G 8GB 256-Bit GDDR5X PCI Express 3.0 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814126110 CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3000 (PC4 24000) Memory Kit Model CMK16GX4M2B3000C15 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233852 SAMSUNG 960 EVO M.2 250GB NVMe PCI-Express 3.0 x4 Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) MZ-V6E250BW https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147593 CORSAIR RMx Series RM850X 850W 80 PLUS GOLD Haswell Ready Full Modular ATX12V & EPS12V SLI and Crossfire Ready Power Supply https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139141 ViewSonic XG2703-GS 27" 2560 x 1440 (2K) 165 Hz IPS G-Sync Gaming Monitor, 1000:1, 250 cd/m2, USB, HDMI, Display Port, Built-in Internal Speaker, Height, Pivot, Title and Swivel Adjustable, VESA Mountable https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824116827
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Nov 24, 2017 23:58
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FooF posted:Ryzen likes higher RAM clocks, no doubt, but you're looking at <5% performance going from 2666 to 3200 (all other things being equal). If you can snag 3000/3200 RAM for a few bucks more, by all means, do it but don't spend more than 5% of your total system budget on higher RAM speeds because you won't actually see the increase in performance. At 1080p, you're still going to be GPU-bound for most games and the 1600 when OC'd is plenty fast for the vast majority. If he is trying to have the system for 5 years buying the ram upfront makes more sense IMO. Depending on what is being played the ram speed may not make more than 5% on the other hand it might be more like 15%. That said if you're only looking for 60fps it likely won't be an issue. However, for 144hz it'll be worthwhile...nevermind the potential down the road of just slotting a better GPU or *maybe* a new AM4 chip and not having to upgrade the ram too. Isn't the delta for 16gb of 2666 to 3000/3200 like $15/$20? Granted I have the 1600/3200mhz setup but the ram was 125 for 16gb and 2666 at the time was $115.
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Nov 24, 2017 23:58
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Rolodex Propaganda posted:Feedback on this build is appreciated. 8700K is out. Pair it with a mid-ranged Z370. The ASRock Extreme4 and ASUS STRIX offerings ~$150-180 are all solid choices. Go with the Cryorig H7 over the Hyper 212 EVO. Enjoy. You're also overbuying a PSU for that build. You'd probably be fine with a 650W, but if the price delta isn't too big, stick with the 850.
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Nov 25, 2017 00:38
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