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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Also, minor rant, but "Ecotec" is GM's line of 4 cylinders. Yours would be a Vortec. nope, ecotec3
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Dec 11, 2017 20:55
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Well, poo poo. I learned something today.
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Dec 11, 2017 21:01
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Unsprung weight has a pretty significant effect on braking and acceleration. I have no idea what that translates to mileage wise but its not helping if they are heavier than stock and generally you gotta spend a lot of money to get something lighter than stock even on stock size wheels. Oem may look like poo poo but a lot of them are surprisingly light. I guess it wouldn't effect highway mileage though so thats only part of it.
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Dec 11, 2017 21:05
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No Butt Stuff posted:Oh okay. I'll check that tonight. Thanks. They probably can, but whether they will or not is another question. Jeep people run into that problem sometimes. If they will do the work, expect to pay for an hour of labor even though it's 30 seconds of work.
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Dec 12, 2017 02:05
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Well I kept it a little slower on my commute home and actually saw some normal speeds. I think just keeping my foot out of it will help significantly.
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Dec 12, 2017 02:23
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Godholio posted:They probably can, but whether they will or not is another question. Jeep people run into that problem sometimes. If they will do the work, expect to pay for an hour of labor even though it's 30 seconds of work. Do newer jeeps not use speedo gears? I was stoked with how easy it was to replace mine, after determining how many teeth I needed for my tire size.
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Dec 12, 2017 02:29
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Nope, it's all electronic. Fed by wheel speed sensors, I guess. The AEV Procal will do it via the OBD2 port, costs $150. One problem people were having (and probably still are) is that dealers would either refuse to do it outright, or would only program to a size that was available from the factory. So guys with 33s or 35s were SOL. Other dealers were charging $80-100. Some were cool and just did it. I just bought a Procal, gently caress it.
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Dec 12, 2017 03:10
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I have HP+ brakes on my GTI and recently (since ~ thanksgiving) they've been super squeaky when braking, specifically below 10mph. It's really embarrassing and sounds like it might be coming from the driver's front brake more than the rest. The brakes have plenty of pad left and while they've always been kinda squeaky they are almost unbearably loud now. Any suggestions on troubleshooting this? Do those "stop brake squeak" products work? I installed these myself a while ago so I know how to get them back off if need be, but I'm hoping for a easy solution.
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Dec 12, 2017 07:01
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They are HP+, they are going to be squeaky and dusty as gently caress. It is known. (but nothing compared to DTC-60/70) Try re-bedding them and you're probably going to need to change how you use the brakes so you aren't constantly scraping the transfer layer off (read: don't lightly drag them up to lights, get on them harder and later). Hawks get loud as soon as the transfer layer is gone. Stick with OEM pads unless you're tracking the car, in which case the HP+ is enough until you're out of the novice group. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 07:13 on Dec 12, 2017 |
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Dec 12, 2017 07:07
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BlackMK4 posted:Stick with OEM pads unless you're tracking the car, in which case the HP+ is enough until you're out of the novice group. I'm a pretty experienced track driver actually (solo blue, sometimes red depending on event) that's why i got these in the first place . I'll try rebedding tomorrow morning and see what happens.
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Dec 12, 2017 07:29
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2006 Saturn Ion, 2.2L Ecotec. It's coolant change time again. Realistically, I'll probably only be in this car for 1-2 more years. But I drive a lot... as in 40-50k/year. Which long-life coolant (as in ~75k miles, not the 150k GM suggested for Dexcool) would you guys suggest? It's always had Dexcool, though it got a partial drain and refill when I bought it at 60k, and a full drain/water rinse/fill at 120k when the original thermostat died. It's at 192k now. I have no problem sticking with Dexcool (since I actually change it), just wondering if I should consider some of the other long life coolants. I'm kinda leaning toward sticking with Dexshit, more so that there's less confusion for the next owner whenever I get rid of it. I'd rather not go with plain old green stuff, simply because of how much I drive. This engine doesn't have the common failure points that a lot of other Dexcool-era engines have (namely, coolant doesn't run through the intake). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:54 on Dec 12, 2017 |
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Dec 12, 2017 10:51
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Isn't there problems changing over to something else? Like you have to be sure to drain it all (so not just rad but engine block bolt), do a flush, then do a coolant change again soon after? I was pretty glad when I opened up the ex's vz commode was already well flushed out 
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Dec 12, 2017 14:43
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rdb posted:nope, ecotec3 Having worked with this stuff extensively: Ecotec is kind of more a marketing name than anything meaningful, though that's not to say it's not often used to refer to specific engines. In North America, Ecotec Gen 1 refers to the L850 engines, which are 4 cylinders. Ecotec, however, was used also to refer to Fam 0 and Fam 1 engines out of Europe. Ecotec Gen 2 is used to refer to LGE engines, starting with 13MY LCV and LTG. To be accurate, you should refer to these engine families as L850 or LGE. As for the small block based engines, GM recently launched Small Block Gen 5 engines. With the Gen 5, the 6 cylinder (which is really the 8 cylinder with 2 removed) was FINALLY refreshed (and probably got the Ecotec name slapped on at that time). However, up until that point, GM's 6 cylinder was actually based on the first generation small block (it had a distributor! in 2014!) which is why it still retained the Vortec name, even though the rest of the small block engines (the V8s) was the small block gen 4.
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Dec 12, 2017 16:05
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Fo3 posted:Isn't there problems changing over to something else? Like you have to be sure to drain it all (so not just rad but engine block bolt), do a flush, then do a coolant change again soon after? Yeah, you really need to get rid of all the old stuff if you're going to swap. It's a challenge. My understanding of Dexcool is that as long as you completely ignore the recommended interval and flush twice as often it's fine (I've never owned a GM of that era).
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Dec 12, 2017 17:11
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Tire age vs. signs of wear - we have a set of snow tires for my wife's car that I bought in the end of 2010 and first had mounted in 2011. They see less than 2,000 miles of use per year and there have been a few years where they either didn't get used at all, or were used for a very short period of time. When they're not in use they're stored in my garage out of the sun. Tread is still good (75-80% remaining) and there's no sign of dry rotting - should I be concerned that they're seven years old this year?
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Dec 12, 2017 18:16
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Fo3 posted:Isn't there problems changing over to something else? Like you have to be sure to drain it all (so not just rad but engine block bolt), do a flush, then do a coolant change again soon after? Godholio posted:Yeah, you really need to get rid of all the old stuff if you're going to swap. It's a challenge. My understanding of Dexcool is that as long as you completely ignore the recommended interval and flush twice as often it's fine (I've never owned a GM of that era). I drain both the block and radiator when I change it, fill it back up with water, drain again, then do the final fill. But yeah, sounds like I should go ahead and stick with Dexcool. Thanks guys.
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Dec 12, 2017 21:33
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Does anybody have any experience with OBDII scanners compatible with iPhones? Looking for one as an Xmas gift, but I'm seeing them range from $13 to $100 (looking for one under $50).
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Dec 13, 2017 22:21
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I personally use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WPW6BAE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 App I use is OBD Fusion Don't leave these things plugged in to the car, they will kill your battery
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Dec 13, 2017 22:31
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Scanner - $16 App - $10 Can not recommend highly enough.
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Dec 13, 2017 22:35
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What's a fair price for labor on replacing all 4 shocks+struts on a ten year old Mazdaspeed3? Labor only, I've got a set of Koni FSDs as an early xmas present.
azazello fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Dec 13, 2017 |
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Dec 13, 2017 23:16
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MrYenko posted:Scanner - $16 Are there any android-only options that work better or would I still want to pick these up? 07 CVPI/Galaxy S5 if any of that matters.
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Dec 14, 2017 00:04
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azazello posted:What's a fair price for labor on replacing all 4 shocks+struts on a ten year old Mazdaspeed3? Labor only, I've got a set of Koni FSDs as an early xmas present. $Texas. I mean not really but ugh I hated doing that job. Seriously one of my least favorite repairs ever. The lower arm is basically one giant pinch clamp around the bottom of the strut, and I had an absolute bear of a time getting the arm low enough to release / take the strut, without popping the CV joint apart. As in, I completely failed at doing that on the driver's side. I would absolutely plan on replacing every related component while you're in there - bump stops, strut mounts/ bearings. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Dec 14, 2017 |
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Dec 14, 2017 00:36
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BlackMK4 posted:I personally use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WPW6BAE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I also use that device, but my app is Dash Command. No idea how they compare. Enourmo posted:Are there any android-only options that work better or would I still want to pick these up? 07 CVPI/Galaxy S5 if any of that matters. I had one of those readers that I used with a wicked old android tablet. Torque Pro was the app I used. I actually prefer my current reader over that one. Much less bulky.
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Dec 14, 2017 03:14
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Dash Command for iOS is great. Torque for iOS is awful, apparently none of the features that Android’s Torque has.
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Dec 14, 2017 08:52
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Would a sway bar / stabilizer bar link snapping in motion explain the tire going all the way to the tail end of the wheel well? Would it be likely to cause any further damage? I can tell one of mine snapped, but I haven’t gotten the chance to jack it up to see if anything is twisted towards the middle.
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Dec 14, 2017 23:11
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Do you mean the wheel's tucked up while not moving? The only thing a sway bar does is equalize differences in wheel height due to cornering loads, while you're stopped it does absolutely nothing. If your wheel is out of place while parked something far, far more critical has broken and you should not drive it until you fix what's up.
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Dec 15, 2017 01:44
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I’ve been cross-posting between here and the Subaru thread. Looks like the sway bar somehow got twisted in front of and slightly above the control arm, pushing the control arm all the way back. Tell me if this table breaks, I’m on my phone. Why didn’t I think to pop off the wheel to get more travel to get the sway bar back on the right side? I’m dumb. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Dec 15, 2017 |
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Dec 15, 2017 02:08
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09 corolla. Wipers crapped out on me yesterday morning. Sat all day at work, and when I got in the car, they worked fine, "tested" them multiple times on the way home and no problems. This morning, again, went to clear the windshield and they crapped out. Lately, they've been giving me a bit of trouble. with working, but i've just had to hit the switch a couple times to get them moving. Until now. I know that in past winters, due to laziness, I've turned the wipers on, when there was a bit too much snow/ice on the glass, and when they didn't move, I'd get out and brush/scrape as the case may be. While the car was still running, and the wipers still trying to move (even though the switch was off). This is obviously hard on the motor. Soooo..... Is there a way to test a motor to see if its failing? Like too much/not enough resistance across the electrical terminals or some poo poo? I guess I'd have to know how much was normal resistance before I could tell what was too much/not enough first. What say you goons?
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Dec 15, 2017 12:24
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Apply power directly to it. If it works, it works and your problem is probably the switch. If it doesn't work, well, there you go.
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Dec 15, 2017 18:04
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Friend has a 2013 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport, 2.0 I4, CVT. Needs a cat. It's long out of emissions warranty. Rockauto only lists a cat rebuild service. Tried the O2 spacer trick on the post-cat sensor, it trips P0137 (sensor 2 low voltage) instead of P0420. Taking the spacer back out gets P0420 back. Anyone know a source outside of Mitsubishi for a bolt-in cat? Or is she limited to getting a generic welded in? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:24 on Dec 16, 2017 |
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Dec 16, 2017 01:12
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wesleywillis posted:09 corolla. Wipers crapped out on me yesterday morning. Sat all day at work, and when I got in the car, they worked fine, "tested" them multiple times on the way home and no problems. This morning, again, went to clear the windshield and they crapped out. Lately, they've been giving me a bit of trouble. with working, but i've just had to hit the switch a couple times to get them moving. Until now. Check your fuses first. Then it should be easy enough to use a multimeter and check if the wiper motor is getting power. Could just be a bad switch.
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Dec 16, 2017 02:39
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Friend has a 2013 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport, 2.0 I4, CVT. You could try using something to plug up the gaps between the washer and the o2 sensor as much as possible to reduce the amount of air leaking into the exhaust.
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Dec 16, 2017 15:31
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Friend has a 2013 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport, 2.0 I4, CVT. Partsgeek lists a few direct-fit cats.
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Dec 16, 2017 16:15
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Godholio posted:Apply power directly to it. If it works, it works and your problem is probably the switch. If it doesn't work, well, there you go. I was going to do that, had it not worked this morning, but it did. An intermittent problem thus far. Breakfast Feud posted:Check your fuses first. Then it should be easy enough to use a multimeter and check if the wiper motor is getting power. Could just be a bad switch. Fuses should be good if they weren't then the wipers wouldn't work at all, and thus far they work sometimes and not others. My brother suggested I check relays. I might switch one with another and see if the problem persists, (or something else stops working intermittently). I hope its not the switch, it would probably be difficult to pull apart the steering column. Last night after I got in the car, I turned the key on and they moved on their own, without even my hitting the switch. I'll assume thats from when I kept hitting the switch in the morning. But that only kinda helps. Could the relay have gotten stuck in the closed position? Meaning (slim chance probably) that the relay is hosed? Thanks goony goons:V
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Dec 16, 2017 18:25
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I picked up a dash camera and I want to wire it in directly to free up my cigarette lighter and also make use of the power meter that shuts off if the battery voltage is low. I was talking to someone at a shop and they said that using a fuse tap is a bad idea. I was told I have two options - wiring into the ignition switch under the dash or directly to the battery. Which is the recommended way? I need to replace a bulb or two under my dash anyway so ripping that out would be advantageous, but it sounds like more work than running it from the battery. 2006 Ford Ranger for reference.
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Dec 16, 2017 21:34
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Dagen H posted:Partsgeek lists a few direct-fit cats. Wrong year, wrong model. Hers is a 2013 Outlander Sport (which is different than the Outlander), not a 2003 Outlander.  I did find an aftermarket (stock replacement) midpipe assembly on ebay that claims to include the "rear cat" for a pretty reasonable price, but I didn't notice if it had 1 or 2 cats while I was under it, and the seller hasn't responded. The price on it is pretty much too good to be true anyway(includes shipping), but it looked like the cat and midpipe were all one big piece from the downpipe to the muffler when I was under it. Seller also claims it's Davico, but Davico doesn't list anything in their catalog for any 2013 Mitsubishi except the Lancer. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Dec 16, 2017 |
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Dec 16, 2017 22:42
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Spazz posted:I picked up a dash camera and I want to wire it in directly to free up my cigarette lighter and also make use of the power meter that shuts off if the battery voltage is low. I was talking to someone at a shop and they said that using a fuse tap is a bad idea. I was told I have two options - wiring into the ignition switch under the dash or directly to the battery. They might have been thinking "fuse tap" would mean wrapping a bare wire around a leg of the fuse. If you use an add a circuit you retain the fuse you're tapping the power from and the device being powered is also fused. Really can't think of any reason to not do it this way unless the device needs more power than you'd usually run through the in cabin fuse box.
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Dec 16, 2017 23:19
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Geoj posted:They might have been thinking "fuse tap" would mean wrapping a bare wire around a leg of the fuse. If you use an add a circuit you retain the fuse you're tapping the power from and the device being powered is also fused. Really can't think of any reason to not do it this way unless the device needs more power than you'd usually run through the in cabin fuse box. Agreeing with this. The best advantage of the add a circuit is that you're not modifying or cutting factory wiring.
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Dec 17, 2017 00:05
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Wrong year, wrong model. Hers is a 2013 Outlander Sport (which is different than the Outlander), not a 2003 Outlander. Wow, I really need to learn to read. Sorry for the false alarm.
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Dec 17, 2017 01:24
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timing belt skipped, have a question this morning I tried to start the car and I heard some loud pops while cranking and it wouldn't start. I took the timing cover off and noticed the timing had skipped because there was a good bit of play on one side of the belt. What is the proper procedure for diagnosing valve damage? Should the head be removed and inspected, or would a new timing kit and a passing leakdown test be suitable?
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Dec 17, 2017 03:39
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