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It's the same fuel, but it doesn't seem at all like what an engine with bad fuel would do. Idles perfectly fine, behaves well at low load, revs happily in neutral. Also never had issues with last year's fuel in cars here.
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Jun 22, 2017 15:59
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ionn posted:It's the same fuel, but it doesn't seem at all like what an engine with bad fuel would do. Idles perfectly fine, behaves well at low load, revs happily in neutral. Also never had issues with last year's fuel in cars here.
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Jun 22, 2017 17:30
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If its in limp home mode the throttle cable will move the butterfly if the car is off, but the easier way to know is that it will click a few times when first turning the car on. Wouldn't surprise me at all if messing with abs would put it in limp mode.
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Jun 22, 2017 19:15
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Doesn't limp mode trigger the Engine Management light?
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Jun 22, 2017 19:58
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Yes. In my experience the engine likes to die at idle too since the fly by wire isn't letting the throttle open and its natural position is completely closed, so you have to shift into neutral and feather it.
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Jun 22, 2017 20:14
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spog posted:Doesn't limp mode trigger the Engine Management light? I would expect a "for reals limp-home condition" (such as borked MAF or something) to trigger the warning light, but nothing is lit up. Which is why I was thinking of that throttle body being in the mechanical fallback mode for whatever reason, said reason has disappeared and all is well, but the throttle is in derp mode. But I can certainly test disconnecting the MAF, if that doesn't change anything it is presumably broken. And of course check if the throttle is in that mode or not. SCA Enthusiast posted:Wouldn't surprise me at all if messing with abs would put it in limp mode. It would surprise me if that were the case in a normal car, but here it's just "haha, I get it, it's a Saab". However, I did pull the fuse to the ABS, and the engine still behaved the same.
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Jun 22, 2017 21:21
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These engines are really picky about the MAF, so you might try cleaning it too.
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Jun 22, 2017 21:33
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ionn posted:I would expect a "for reals limp-home condition" (such as borked MAF or something) to trigger the warning light, but nothing is lit up. Which is why I was thinking of that throttle body being in the mechanical fallback mode for whatever reason, said reason has disappeared and all is well, but the throttle is in derp mode. But I can certainly test disconnecting the MAF, if that doesn't change anything it is presumably broken. And of course check if the throttle is in that mode or not. http://www.saabscene.com/forum/threads/115845-How-do-I-reset-quot-Limp-Home-Mode-quot might work?
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Jun 22, 2017 21:40
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That's the thread I found when I had to do it. Its a little tricky but the process seems pretty obvious once you get it to work.
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Jun 22, 2017 21:44
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Need a hint here: 2008 9-5 t Super sluggish below 30-40mph. Has a new MAF. No codes 60k miles Turbo gauge normal Just feels like a marshmallow until you really push it then it will kick down and rev up engine. When it was newer it just had a second of turbo lag then would spin the wheels. At 35-80 mph it shudders or feels like a miss. Fuel economy down about %20
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Jul 29, 2017 23:37
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some_admin posted:Need a hint here: Sure the new MAF is a good one?
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Jul 30, 2017 21:12
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some_admin posted:Need a hint here: Spark plugs? e: or DIC?
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Jul 30, 2017 22:46
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SCA Enthusiast posted:Spark plugs? Wouldn't it be giving some codes and a check engine light if the DIC/plugs were at fault? (my 9-3 threw misfire codes and flashed the check engine light when the plugs were tired) Surely most engine related faults would cause some codes in this case? Could it be an issue with the transmission instead?
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Jul 30, 2017 23:56
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trandmission a possibility, I don't ant to think about but yes,a possibility. Argh dang it saab.
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Jul 31, 2017 00:42
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Tomarse posted:Wouldn't it be giving some codes and a check engine light if the DIC/plugs were at fault? (my 9-3 threw misfire codes and flashed the check engine light when the plugs were tired) Good point. It should throw a code in that case. Nevertheless, taking a look at the spark plugs is a very easy thing to do.
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Jul 31, 2017 21:02
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I pushed the sport button and now it's like a different car. Zoom zoom That's probably not a good long term solution, is it? Thanks for hint Tomarse!!
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Jul 31, 2017 22:21
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So I'm a fan of oddball cars and have come upon a local 9-5 for sale. It's a 2011 with the 2.0 litre and a 6 speed manual, which is more appealing to me than the V6. One owner with 58,000kms (36k miles). However, it's a obviously a really uncommon car, currently the only one for sale in the entire province, in fact. So I'm really not sure what it's worth. It's listed at 15k CDN firm. Can anyone provide any guidance as to how reasonable a price that is? Beyond that, given that it's the same turbo GM motor that has been used in other models, are these generally considered to be a reliable platform? I read that it's built on the same platform as a Buick LaCrosse. Is there are a good deal of overlap between parts? Brakes etc?
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Aug 14, 2017 19:19
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Mexecan - 2011 saab price will be in the eye of the beholder. New model year/body style, and they only made it one year I think. Now I am getting ABS, VSC, and brake warning lights all at once; popping on intermittently. Brake fluid seems topped up, I don't notice anything leaking... If it happens I can usually turn car off and restart and it clears the lights. I notice nothing wrong with brakes. If it happens with car in park, I am unable to shift into drive. I'll try to go to the auto parts store today and see if they can read any codes. Any idea waht I could be looking at here? ( I know, no real information) edit: I went to oreillys and they hooked up an obd reader, no codes. dangit saab. some_admin fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Aug 21, 2017 |
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Aug 21, 2017 16:56
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some_admin posted:Mexecan - 2011 saab price will be in the eye of the beholder. New model year/body style, and they only made it one year I think. ABS module crapping out? I tend to associate dash Christmas tree conditions with failing ABS modules. Luckily you can remove it have it refurbished.
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Aug 21, 2017 19:51
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Ah! Reading about the abs failure it sounds like it can affect the ECU and you will be down on power,, because ECU not getting good signal from ABS. Anyone use the ABS module rebuilder services successfully?
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Aug 21, 2017 23:57
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some_admin posted:Ah! Reading about the abs failure it sounds like it can affect the ECU and you will be down on power,, because ECU not getting good signal from ABS. What state do you live in?
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Aug 22, 2017 03:17
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Colorado. I've been looking at ABS electronic module used, they are $100-$500, no guarantees. The main rebuilder dude cheap-abs.com does not work on 2008 ABS. Also noticed I've lost the engine thermometer as well. Boost gauge still good. I iintend to check the ABS wheel sensors as well, before going on an adventure trying to replace ABS module myself. Is the fix for it something like a solder reflow or is it chip level repair?
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Aug 23, 2017 01:12
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BBA-Reman has been the goto on a few boards I'm a member of. Problem is, their site says they only do up to 2003's. Might be worth emailing them though. http://www.bba-reman.com/gb/content.aspx?content=saab_bosch_5.3_abs
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Aug 23, 2017 03:17
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I had the ABS module give out on my 06 9-3. I was unable to find a place willing to refurb my ABS so I went with a used replacement for about $275 I believe. I also drove with the broken ABS for about 8 months with no major problems, only decided to replace it when it was causing the car to not start properly.
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Aug 23, 2017 17:51
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The ABS module in Last-Gen is not the same drat thing. Go buy a $500 OG--5, replace the seals, headbolts, PCV upgrade- then go for another 200,000 miles. @some_admin If you have a 2010/2011, you are well and truly hosed. You need a GDI to talk to V8, but, yeah, it's going to be the ABS module. --- This 1987 is for sale for $2k and is just a few cities over. My god I want this car, but I don't know why. 
Bipolar Transistor fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Aug 26, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 03:24
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If I had $2k lying around I would buy this car so loving fast.
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Aug 29, 2017 15:43
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Imagined posted:If I had $2k lying around I would buy this car so loving fast. Have you not read this thread? The 3.0 is really awful.
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Aug 29, 2017 18:50
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some_admin posted:Colorado. Dang, if you were in CA, there's a guy that all the dealers use that goes between bakersfield-sacramento and over to the bay/gold country. Reasonably priced, fast, and stands by his work. Bipolar Transistor posted:Have you not read this thread? The 3.0 is really awful. In all honesty, I never had any issues with mine, it was everything else that started to crap out first not the engine.
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Aug 29, 2017 19:36
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Bipolar Transistor posted:Have you not read this thread? The 3.0 is really awful. Good thing I don't have $2k. Hard to imagine any car at that price that runs, has four good tires and a working air conditioner being a total bust, though. Imagined fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Aug 29, 2017 |
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Aug 29, 2017 20:00
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Whatever issues the 3.0 had pales in comparison to the sludge machine the 2.0 was. That was peak turd technology. The 3.0 had some odd things, but nothing I'd call a deal breaker. Mine was solid, though I also changed oil at intervals and things like that.
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Aug 29, 2017 20:26
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keykey posted:In all honesty, I never had any issues with mine, it was everything else that started to crap out first not the engine. It looks like you've taken care of yours. Almost every one I've seen for sale says "New radiator", so you know they misdiagnosed the issue and are just trying to pass it down the road. keykey posted:Whatever issues the 3.0 had pales in comparison to the sludge machine the 2.0 was. That was peak turd technology. The 3.0 had some odd things, but nothing I'd call a deal breaker. Mine was solid, though I also changed oil at intervals and things like that. If people actually change their oil in time, the B2xx is still a lot more reliable if you have the proper updates. The fact that it took them six tries (and one of them was far too aggressive) doesn't lend well to credibility, but you'll be seeing the I4s long after the last 3.0 has been parted.
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Aug 31, 2017 02:48
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I chickened out on changing ABS controller myself. Car at new mechanic, recommended by neighbor. Fingers crossed. Edit: mechanic did not have Saab compatible computers. They Cleaned the MAF and that helped with hesitation issue. Took to Saab specialist (Mile Hi Automotive) here in Denvet, they replaceda little switch that was hooked up to brakes and it seems like we are all good now, yay! $245 for oil change, 2 hours of diagnoses and one new switch. some_admin fucked around with this message at 13:05 on Oct 30, 2017 |
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Oct 5, 2017 03:11
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2001 9-5 I only have cabin airflow through the dash vents, and considering winter is here this is a problem. I am undoubtedly going to need the defrost soon. From my research it seems I need to fix the distribution shaft bearing (bushing) on the air distribution flap stepper motor. This is behind the driver's side dash. The part itself is cheap but I imagine this is a pretty annoying job. Has anyone done this? I'd like to have a little foreknowledge about what I'm up against. Its allegedly accessible from underneath, but would it be easier to get at with the instrument cluster removed? I need to do that anyway since I'm losing dash lights. It started with the lights on the speedometer above 90mph, which I didn't care about since I don't need that, but in the last couple of days I've lost the tachometer back light too, so I'm thinking I should dig in and replace them all. Thoughts? E: Thinking about it further, could my dash illumination issue be due to something other than burned out bulbs if I'm losing whole cluster regions at a time? There should be several bulbs per dial, I would think. epic bird guy fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Nov 16, 2017 |
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Nov 16, 2017 03:46
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It sounds like you've diagnosed it but check the error codes on your ACC if you haven't done it yet. This is for a 1999, but should be the same/similar http://photo.platonoff.com/Auto/20080730.Saab_9-5_ACC_Air_Distribution_Motor/ Doesn't look too bad, just drop the glovebox and you should have access. That being said, it's a real bitch to work on as you usually have to contort yourself if you're not a small person. Removing the front seat is an option if you want an easier time. Edit: Here's a writeup on gauge cluster light replacement http://www.twinsaabs.com/9-5_repair/lights/gauge_cluster.asp?nsteps=1 JayKay fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Nov 16, 2017 |
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Nov 16, 2017 15:56
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The end has come for my Saab, I'm going to be donating my '00 9-5 Aero in the coming weeks. This will be the first time in a very long time that I won't have a Saab in my garage.  Once I get the car out, I'll go through and see what spare parts/supplies I have left over. I should have some Mann oil filters, a valve cover gasket, and various odds and ends I'd be willing to send to a good home. JayKay fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Dec 15, 2017 |
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Dec 15, 2017 19:21
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Dangit. Check engine light came on, went off. Came back two days later. Had a hard start leaving swimming lessons this morning. Performance still laggy/sluggish. Got to the autoparts store, they read the code, P1312. Internet says it is sooty plugs or DIC. Do I need to take it to Saab shop or should I just buy a new DIC and install it? Looks sort of easy to do. Saabusaparts.com wants $330 for DIC & new OEM plugs. This is of course going to crap out and strand me somewhere isn't it? Of course, it's been beautiful weather wise here, and turning to poo poo tomorrow morning. Snow, low 20f temperatures. 2008 9-5 Wagon 2.3T, 63,000 miles Saab shop solved previous problem of DSC/Anti-skid lights/brake lights being on, was one of two small switches in brake system somewhere. ($250) some_admin fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Dec 21, 2017 |
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Dec 21, 2017 00:03
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Check the plugs first, they might just need replacement. Fwiw I've done well with an aftermarket dic. Installing the dic and checking plugs is very easy and I would not recommend paying for it.
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Dec 21, 2017 00:08
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EpicBirdEnthusiast posted:Check the plugs first, they might just need replacement. Fwiw I've done well with an aftermarket dic. Yeah the video for replacing the DIC was 1:55 realtime. 4 torx 30 and a cable clip. comments on the DIC buying page said avoid aftermarket, are they much cheaper to purchase?
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Dec 21, 2017 00:44
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plugs & new DIC on their way here. UPS next day air saver. I, guessing I don't see it until Friday though.
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Dec 21, 2017 02:02
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some_admin posted:Yeah the video for replacing the DIC was 1:55 realtime. 4 torx 30 and a cable clip. Yeah, they're usually significantly cheaper, but if OEM is within your budget and you don't mind paying that there's no reason not to go that route. I've noticed a lot of Saab forums having a general opinion of genuine only, but I personally have had good results with aftermarket, especially the proparts sweden stuff, including a DIC that I have been running with for more than 2 years and about 35k miles.
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Dec 21, 2017 03:27
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