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IOwnCalculus posted:Never trust PO diagnostics. Showing why you were a mod right here. This thing has so many spots where things were done right, and so many more where they were done oh, oh so wrong.
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Dec 28, 2017 01:04
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If you're not planning on replacing the body with something else remove the battery, trunk carpet, and spare ASAP, wash the inside out with plain water, then cover it in some kind of tar paint. At some point it had a leaky battery and no one cleaned it up after it leaked. It's the inside behind carpet and stuff so who cares what it looks like, you can do it all sloppy if you don't know about painting (like me) and it doesn't matter, but left alone it's racing toward holes.
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Dec 28, 2017 03:55
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Larrymer posted:Are you sure it's the pan leaking and not the rear main? um excuse me posted:Not 100% sure, no. If it's just an unspecified oil leak and you cannot clearly determine where it's from, it is probably not the oil pan. Much more likely to be a main seal. Unless you personally know and have a reason to trust a PO, always assume they are full of poo poo.
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Dec 28, 2017 07:40
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craig588 posted:If you're not planning on replacing the body with something else remove the battery, trunk carpet, and spare ASAP, wash the inside out with plain water, then cover it in some kind of tar paint. At some point it had a leaky battery and no one cleaned it up after it leaked. It's the inside behind carpet and stuff so who cares what it looks like, you can do it all sloppy if you don't know about painting (like me) and it doesn't matter, but left alone it's racing toward holes. The trunk is stripped of all stuff, the spare's hold-down bolt snapped off in the body flush with the floor. The battery is coming out this weekend and I'll be cutting/sanding all the rust out of the trunk and doing the battery mounting stuff right and repainting the trunk. That loving antenna drain is what flooded the trunk.
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Dec 28, 2017 11:43
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I currently have a BNRS3 2013 MS3 and a mostly stock 2004 MSM. I own both outright. I'm having dirty, shameful thougths of selling both to get into a low mileage 2016 Grand Touring. Tell me what a dumb idea this is, please.
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Dec 28, 2017 13:49
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Debt is poo poo, keep your old cars.
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Dec 28, 2017 14:04
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Counter-point: Depending on what you are trying to do with your time/life getting rid of higher maintenance vehicles for an efficient and reliable daily can be a very smart choice.
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Dec 28, 2017 16:15
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GEMorris posted:Counter-point: Depending on what you are trying to do with your time/life getting rid of higher maintenance vehicles for an efficient and reliable daily can be a very smart choice. And the MS3 in particular likes a steady diet of chunks of money.
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Dec 28, 2017 20:12
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MourningGlory posted:I currently have a BNRS3 2013 MS3 and a mostly stock 2004 MSM. I own both outright. I'm having dirty, shameful thougths of selling both to get into a low mileage 2016 Grand Touring. Tell me what a dumb idea this is, please. I would not personally do this. If anything I'd sell the MSM and get something else. Like a normal miata with a better aftermarket turbo. 
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Dec 28, 2017 20:23
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The real driving force is that within the next 6-ish months I'll be moving from a state with zero emissions to a state with fairly rigorous inspections and I'll be going from a house where I have a great garage and loads of tools to a carport with most of my tools in storage. The MS3 will require several of the aforementioned chunks of money to even have a hope of passing a real inspection and the MSM is mint and was intended to be a forever car. I'd rather sell it to someone who can take care of it than try to take it with me. So yeah, I need to consolidate down to a single emissions-legal car that has a level of reliability compatible with me having minimal capacity to do any work on them.
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Dec 28, 2017 22:42
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Sounds like you have your mind made up already. Go with your gut.
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Dec 29, 2017 01:02
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Nocheez posted:Sounds like you have your mind made up already. Go with your gut. Yeah, I think I do. I'm emotionally invested in both vehicles but with all the constraints of this move I just don't see how I can manage both cars. So, anyone have experience with both an MSM and an ND? How do they compare?
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Dec 29, 2017 01:47
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The sandwich oil cooler nut was on only finger tight. The oil cooler would rotate when removing the oil filter, the only thing keeping a massive oil leak at bay was the tightness of the oil filter. The absolute state of this car.
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Dec 29, 2017 12:27
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MourningGlory posted:Yeah, I think I do. I'm emotionally invested in both vehicles but with all the constraints of this move I just don't see how I can manage both cars. They're pretty similar to be quite honest, it's just that the torque is there from down low. The Skyactiv is wheezy up top, but with the MSM your powerband is all of 2.5k RPM anyways; lateral move at best. The ND handles like a dream, it'll return back 30+ mpg all day long, the gear box is really satisfying. The usual complaints are about light steering; however, you can totally feel what direction the front wheels are pointing. It's kind of a pain to get in and out slightly. Usual stuff about 4x4 stance and the infotainment screen, but that's subjective.
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Dec 29, 2017 23:43
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Got the old 95 beater back together, minus filling the cooling system and installing the rad, but I had to see if I'd done the timing and re-aligned the CAS correctly. It fired right up and idled nice and stable for like 5 seconds before I shut it back off. I love how tolerant of lovely mechanics (me) these cars are.
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Jan 4, 2018 11:48
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My poor little NB has trouble starting in this harsh Florida winter. Even with a new battery. You can do it little buddy!
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Jan 6, 2018 23:41
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Doesn't the NB have a returnless system? It might be struggling to build pressure in the cold.
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Jan 6, 2018 23:50
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The NB does indeed have a return less fuel system but from what I've heard that can mainly cause issues when it is really warm.
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Jan 7, 2018 01:45
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It always took a few more cranks than expected, year round, on my NB. Just a quirk of the car was what I thought.
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Jan 7, 2018 23:54
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Yeah on second thought, my NB (10AE) also cranks a bit longer than I'm used to from other cars. But I haven't driven it below 35-40°F so I dunno.
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Jan 8, 2018 00:30
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So i'm trying to figure out why my trunk is wet. And while my four year old daughter was very helpful (at least she kept insisting that i would be totally lost without her while she climbed around the car) im still not entirely sure. It looks like there are some traces of water right under the lock but i can't figure out how the water gets there. My best guess so far ist that it somehow creeps through the trunk seal. But its dry on top so it must creep underneath the seal. Is that a thing that happens? The constant dampness of the trunk is starting to piss me off. Oh yeah, its a '99 NB.
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Jan 8, 2018 10:29
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I had water in the trunk on my NA every time it rained, turned out the tail light that was replaced shortly before I bought it didn't have the rubber seal properly seated. If I read your description correctly, it might match how it seemed in my case.
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Jan 8, 2018 11:40
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Shai-Hulud posted:So i'm trying to figure out why my trunk is wet. And while my four year old daughter was very helpful (at least she kept insisting that i would be totally lost without her while she climbed around the car) im still not entirely sure. It looks like there are some traces of water right under the lock but i can't figure out how the water gets there. My best guess so far ist that it somehow creeps through the trunk seal. But its dry on top so it must creep underneath the seal. Is that a thing that happens? The constant dampness of the trunk is starting to piss me off. On my 95, it turns out the DAPO broke the antenna drain line. If your car has a retracting antenna, make sure the little black tube off the bottom is seated in the hole in the floor of the trunk. Mine was busted off at the floor so it completely flooded the trunk.
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Jan 8, 2018 12:14
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I picked up a very reasonably priced 2000 NB 'Icon' model over Christmas. It's done 40k, came with two sets of rims (the set in the photo have been binned for the originals as they were unbearable to look at and drive on), a colour coded hard top, heated rear window in the rag top, stainless steel sports exhaust, cold air intake, lightened clutch and flywheel and a complete history from the original sale invoice. No rust in any of the usual places either! That being said, it has been in garage storage for the last 5 years. The previous owner was a family friend who has had the car for the last 14 years and is meticulous with his car maintenance. I am, however, acutely aware of the fact that just because it's been in storage for 5 years doesn't mean it's good to go right away. I've already replaced the plugs and leads to cure a slight rough running problem, drained the ancient fuel and replaced with that 99 RON that has the detergents in it and put on 4 new tyres after a skittish as gently caress test drive. My question is what are the absolute must dos for a Mk2 MX-5 for when I hand it over to my mechanic next week? Fluids and lubricants are obvious, but is it worth changing the cam belt even if it's still taut? My head says that as it's a rubber consumable and 'taut' can mean 'perished' rather than all is well. My main driving concern at the moment is that I'm noticing the brakes are a bit leisurely, to say the least. There isn't much feel early in the pedal travel and I'm having to really press that pedal hard to get any kind of braking performance and even then it's not confidence inspiring. There's plenty of meat on the pads, but could this be remedied by flushing the old crap and putting in some fresh fluid? Any advice from the learned is always appreciated.
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Jan 8, 2018 12:40
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Theophany posted:My main driving concern at the moment is that I'm noticing the brakes are a bit leisurely, to say the least. There isn't much feel early in the pedal travel and I'm having to really press that pedal hard to get any kind of braking performance and even then it's not confidence inspiring. There's plenty of meat on the pads, but could this be remedied by flushing the old crap and putting in some fresh fluid? Any advice from the learned is always appreciated. The fluid itself probably won't mean much, but you could have air in the system. Flushing and properly bleeding will fix that too. My money would be on stuck slider pins though, that's usually the thing that just happens with age. Otherwise, it looks like a happy solid Miata. Congratulations! (Boy do I want spring so I can have mine out again) E: timing belt should be changed based on age/distance driven, you won't be able to tell by look and feel. Though if you can handle a sudden breakdown without warning, it has a non interference engine that won't self-destruct if the belt goes, just very suddenly stop. Pushing the maintenance interval a bit though just makes it more exciting (engine is just too drat reliable otherwise). ionn fucked around with this message at 12:50 on Jan 8, 2018 |
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Jan 8, 2018 12:47
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ionn posted:The fluid itself probably won't mean much, but you could have air in the system. Flushing and properly bleeding will fix that too. My money would be on stuck slider pins though, that's usually the thing that just happens with age. Rightio, thanks for that. I'll get him to have a good poke round whilst it's on the ramp. It's a 17-y/o car with no record of a belt change, so it must be well overdue on that basis! My last ride was a 645ci BMW with valve stem seals threatening to completely give up at any second (and gently caress a 2k rebuild on a car that old); I'm not sure I've got the stomach for cambelt roulette!
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Jan 8, 2018 12:58
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BloodBag posted:On my 95, it turns out the DAPO broke the antenna drain line. If your car has a retracting antenna, make sure the little black tube off the bottom is seated in the hole in the floor of the trunk. Mine was busted off at the floor so it completely flooded the trunk. I tried to take a picture of the spot. I checked the rear lights and the antenna drain. Everything is bone dry and doesn't look like it ever got wet. I thought the brake light in the trunk lid could be the problem but it looks dry as well.   this seems to be the only spot with traces of water and the carpet is wet around that spot as well. Somehow water ist getting in there.
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Jan 8, 2018 13:16
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So I sold the MS3 and bought a '17 GT: The car is fantastic and I have zero regrets but I'm less than impressed with the plasticky shifter. What's everyone's favorite short shifter and knob combo for the ND? I was thinking CravenSpeed SS with a heavy spherical knob of some sort.
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Jan 12, 2018 16:37
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MourningGlory posted:So I sold the MS3 and bought a '17 GT: May I make a recommendation - unless you get a screaming deal on both the knob and short shifter combo, try swapping the knob first. At least on my NC, I felt like the short shifter made things worse instead of better.
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Jan 12, 2018 20:45
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Funny you mention that--I had a Team Voodoo knob laying around and it screwed right on to the ND's shifter. I didn't drive it due to ice/snow on the ground but I rowed the gears in the garage and it felt pretty good. The OEM shifter is curiously tall (which was also the case with the MS3). When the weather clears up, I'll put some miles on the car with the lower knob and see how I like it.
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Jan 12, 2018 22:25
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I have a pistol grip style Team Voodoo knob and it's quite nice, although now I'm looking for one that's more teardrop-shaped like the stock NA one. The pistol grip is great except that you can't palm it at all which I tend to do when I'm going into 4th. I never had a problem with the height of the stock ND knob though.
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Jan 12, 2018 23:57
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I have my 95's power rack in pieces and I can't get the driver(left/inner) rack seal off. I'm talking the seal inside the rack itself that rides on the rack and seals it from the area where the pinion is. I just can't drive that fucker out. Should I just admit defeat and get a rebuild? I'm so over buying tools to fix one thing here and one thing there on this car. I know someone is gonna come in and say 'depower', but dammit I want to daily this thing occasionally. That seal is hosed now though. The spring part fell out and the other plastic bit inside it did too. loving stupid PO, letting every O-ring turn into motherfucking plastic. E: For all the poo poo talk about miata.net, sometimes they have good info. I don't know why my monkey rear end didn't snap to this, but they said to use a socket close to size and an extension and a lot more force to drive it out than what's comfortable. I used a 15mm socket and a 12 inch extension and my lovely brass hammer, highly recommended you get one from a manky Scot in a machine shop like I did. Behold!  The oil seal/backup ring for the center of the steering rack. The white ring faces towards the silver section of the rack, spring to the hydro section. The only concerning issue is they say driving it back in is also a lot more force than what's comfortable. I have a 5 lb hammer for that level of discomfort. e2: 10 years later and me not wanting another jackstand queen, and I have another jackstand queen. Needs all 4 brakes and all 4 struts/hats/bellows/bumpers. 
BloodBag fucked around with this message at 15:10 on Jan 14, 2018 |
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Jan 13, 2018 22:12
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Anyone running a Megasquirt on a 1.6? I'm moving from Hawaii back to the frozen hell of the East Coast and I need the car to reliably start while its being shipped. Downside is I have no cold temperatures to test my warmup enrichment and cranking settings here. Is the answer just to add more fuel at cold temps and pray? Crank the Cranking RPM to the moon? Wouldn't mind seeing a few people's after start enrichment and WUE tables if you have em.
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Jan 20, 2018 19:52
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I just pulled the trigger and ordered the various bits needed to put cruise control in my NB, as that is something I am very much missing. It seems to me like there just were no NA or NB's with cruise control sold in Europe (at least I have yet to encounter a single one), even on editions that had it everywhere else. Seems like they all had the wiring harness connectors for it though. Just hoping installation won't be too much of a hassle, if it's as straightforward as it seems to be for the NA it should be fine. Has anyone done that install and has some valuable life experience to share on the matter? I will have to do something for the on-off switch. I did get a combination foglight+cruise switch, but I currently have a front+rear foglight switch because apparently that is something we europeans need to have than cruise control (and yet we tend to use the front fog lights all the time and the rear never ever). I figure I can wire either cruise control or rear foglight on a separate switch elsewhere. Probably the latter as I use it way less, and I would guess the cruise control is more likely to be something else than a plain on-off than the fog light. Edit: Also brace yourselves spring is coming. Time to order tires. ionn fucked around with this message at 10:30 on Jan 25, 2018 |
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Jan 25, 2018 10:08
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What parts did you order and what did it cost you? Seems like a good addition to my car if its not to expensive to do.
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Jan 25, 2018 10:44
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Shai-Hulud posted:What parts did you order and what did it cost you? Seems like a good addition to my car if its not to expensive to do. I ordered a control box, vacuum actuator (with cable), wiper/indicator stalk assembly, throttle+clutch pedal, the on/off combination switch and a brake light switch with the extra two pins on it. Had to get them from a couple different places, in total it was about $230 with shipping. Getting it sent to a colleague in the US for later pickup, since these parts are basically impossible to get here and shipping it all to me would have been twice as much in total. treasurecoastmiata.com sells complete kits for $150 (plus $20 or so shipping), but they haven't had any in stock for months now so I just got whatever parts they did have. The rest is just from ebay. I might not need the brake light switch, it seems NBs usually have the right kind of switch already, but I got one just to be sure as it's cheap ($12). The same switch should fit for the clutch too, which is something that I might be missing entirely. My NA had both switches of the proper kind, but I haven't crawled under there on the NB yet. As for the wiper stalk you can just get that one piece, but getting the whole thing (clockspring, wiper and indicator stalks and switches) was actually cheaper. It's apparently just the stalk itself that is different, it has a cable coming off it for the cruise control switch and can should be possible to replace without removing the steering wheel (which is fine by me, since there's an airbag bomb in there). This is all just based on random crap on the internet and some visual inspection of my cars, as I obviously haven't done any of this myself yet. ionn fucked around with this message at 11:20 on Jan 25, 2018 |
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Jan 25, 2018 11:14
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Shai-Hulud posted:What parts did you order and what did it cost you? Seems like a good addition to my car if its not to expensive to do. I just pulled the unit from Nocheez's 99 - came out intact and I was going to list it for $125. If you're interested shoot me a PM and I will get some pics over. I never engaged it, Nocheez said it worked but maybe had a quirk...he can comment more hopefully. The car in its current state - still lots to do but some little person is excited. 
Bud fucked around with this message at 12:30 on Jan 25, 2018 |
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Jan 25, 2018 12:19
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I'd be excited too, looks nice 
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Jan 25, 2018 12:30
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I installed it on my 94 NA. I think I needed the throttle cable, control module, underhood actuator and maybe one of the pedals or the switches needed swapped (it's been years). All the wiring was there and it lit up on the dash correctly and everything. gently caress the haters because it was an R package. 
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Jan 25, 2018 13:40
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I have a busted right knee and a RHD 10AE, longer trips get painful, guess I should look into retrofitting mine with cruise control too...
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Jan 25, 2018 13:48
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