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Betting on a bubble in the sidewall or a bent wheel.
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Jan 16, 2018 17:30
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Well, turns out they could patch the puncture and I didn't have to buy a new set of tires yet. Also, since Austin is basically shut down with icy roads, I had an entire pitcrew of Discount Tire techs working on my car.IOwnCalculus posted:Discount is pretty good on their warranties. Yeah I'm not putting as many miles on as you per year, but I agree that while the car has been otherwise economical to own the tire wear is a little frustrating. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Jan 16, 2018 |
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Jan 16, 2018 20:55
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In hindsight, day one on that car I should've: *Replaced the rear motor mount and maybe the passenger mount with polyurethane *Picked up camber adjusters and reduced the static camber so it wouldn't chew the inside of all four corners *Buy some 17" wheels for the at-the-time cheaper tires
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Jan 16, 2018 23:14
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MetaJew posted:I got a screw in my passenger rear tire right near the edge, so it's probably time to replace them. I'm rocking Pilot Super Sports in a different size and love them.
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Jan 17, 2018 22:28
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Aexo posted:I hit a pretty bad pothole the other day. I didn't feel any difference in ride immediately. The following day I was driving and I could totally feel a difference. There's an obvious bump like feeling in the steering wheel that's relational to the rotation of the tires. At low speeds you can see how it pulls the steering wheel. At higher speeds it's shaking the car. I'm just trying to brace myself for what the service department is going to tell me tomorrow. Any idea what it may be and a rough cost? Massive bent wheel. Bubble on the inside of the tire, spanning about 1/3 of the tire. $100 for the wheel repair. $18 for renewing tire insurance. Much less than I was worried about paying.
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Jan 18, 2018 02:35
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hattersmad posted:I'm rocking Pilot Super Sports in a different size and love them. Pilot Super Sports are the ultimate tire for anything that isn't seeing a substantial amount of track time. Are you running them on the stock 18's?
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Jan 18, 2018 03:24
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Pilot Super Sports are the ultimate tire for anything that isn't seeing a substantial amount of track time. Are you running them on the stock 18's? Yeah, I have 235/40R18 on the stock wheel. I think when I wear them out I'm going to a 17" wheel.
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Jan 19, 2018 01:51
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I'm sick of driving a lowered car. Currently on Cobb springs, which are only a 1" drop and still pretty hard to live with on the cratered streets of Oakland. Any rec's for springs close to stock ride height on a Speed3? Shocks are Corksport adjustables.
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Jan 22, 2018 21:37
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I'm sick of driving a lowered car. Currently on Cobb springs, which are only a 1" drop and still pretty hard to live with on the cratered streets of Oakland. Any rec's for springs close to stock ride height on a Speed3? Shocks are Corksport adjustables. Just get some OEM take offs from a forum?
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Jan 23, 2018 14:06
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I'm sick of driving a lowered car. Currently on Cobb springs, which are only a 1" drop and still pretty hard to live with on the cratered streets of Oakland. Any rec's for springs close to stock ride height on a Speed3? Shocks are Corksport adjustables. I just installed a set of Koni yellows along with Eibach pro springs (~0.75" drop) on my brother's first-gen MS3, replacing Corksport adjustables and springs. I'm not sure if the previous shocks were blown (they were only two years old with <40,000 miles) but the ride quality improved immensely and the spings aren't as drastic of a drop. Its pothole season here in NE Ohio and he's reported that combination is much better. If you don't have the budget for Koni yellows I'm sure there's some middle of the road option that would go well with the Eibach pro spings.
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Jan 23, 2018 17:01
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The H&R springs look like a good choice. I wonder how they'd do paired with the Corksport shocks/struts...
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Jan 24, 2018 01:09
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Every time I go to a parking garage or have to parallel park I gotta laugh 'cause I am still mentally sizing for my old Galant. The 2 is so tiny it can fit into the smallest of spaces, I absolutely love it! What's really tripping me out is the rear hatch window has a bit of a magnifying lens effect so everything that looks right on my rear end in the rear view mirror is actually a couple feet out. Nothing else to report: vehicle is functioning fine. There's a mild rattle from the passenger rear quarter but I think that's a loose screw or something from the PO's minor fender bender. Once I have my garage back, I'm going to jack it up and go tighten everything I can touch for good measure. Nevertheless, compared to literally every other car I've ever owned this thing is tight as a drum. No functionality issues and no oil burn over the 800mi I've driven since I got it. I will say that my MPG numbers are varying wildly though. One tank I'll get 32.5 mpg mixed city/highway, another half tank I'll get 22mpg short city hops based off the miles driven divided by gallons bought formula. Torque spits out a lifetime average of 34.4ish with very little deviation, but I'm not confident that figure is accurate.
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Jan 24, 2018 04:45
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Use aCar or fuelly.com to track fuel mileage, not the trip computer in the car.
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Jan 24, 2018 04:59
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The saga of azazello's MS3 maintenance intervention a.k.a "I just wanted to change the oil" - Day 1. Go to the auto shop to get the oil changed. Ask them what else is due for maintenance. Get charged ludicrous money for a spark plug change. Shocks and passenger motor mount blown (normal for a 120K mile car). - Day 10. Shop around and order a full set of Koni FSD shocks. - Day 20. Shocks have arrived. Take them to the shop, get charged ludicrous money (but this time with good reason I'm told) to swap shocks and front mounts/bearings. - Day 21. OMG why didn't I do this sooner. But what's that noise? The back goes clunk-clunk-clunk every time I hit any rough surface. - Day 30. Order new passenger motor mount (Damond Motorsports), rear motor mount (CP-E Stage 2 "xFlex" - at 120K it's about time to start my MS3's race car career), Whiteline sway bar and Moog bushings. - Day 50. Everything has arrived after a lengthy delay. Take it to the shop and get charged reasonable amounts of money to install. Shop says my passenger motor mount does not fit the car. WTF? - Day 51. The vibrations are REALLY ROUGH across the whole RPM/load range. My brain has been rattled out, and the rear still clunks despite the sway bar and bushings change. WTF??? Slowly sinking into despair. Considering taking out the RMM. Online shop won't take returns (grr). Shop points out the passenger mount has two possible bracket orientations. - Day 55. Actually, this isn't too bad! The RMM is smoothing out quickly. Still vibrates, but much less annoyingly. - Day 60. gently caress it, I'll try changing the passenger mount myself. Oops, stripped the last nut holding it down while trying to break what seems like a 100 lb-ft torque. - Day 62. Ask the auto shop to get the nut out. They take out a giant impact driver and get it off on the first try. I need to get me one of those... - Day 64. Install the PMM. The shop was right, they tried to fit the bracket upside down. Test drive: the vibrations decreased! Probably something to do with the fact that the OEM PMM was blown. Anyway, with the new mounts, the car definitely feels less wiggly in the drivetrain, and there is no more wheel hop. But there are no shifting or clutch improvements of any sort. All I need now is to fix the clunking noise in the back, and get the stripped nut replaced (I can't even torque it down right now, so the engine is hanging off the mount mostly on one nut, not great).
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Jan 24, 2018 18:19
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Motor mounts and shocks are consumables even on the non-Mazdaspeed version. Sounds like your shop kind of sucks?
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Jan 24, 2018 18:25
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What fixed your back-end clunking?
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Jan 24, 2018 20:19
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:What fixed your back-end clunking? Back-end is still clunking, unfortunately. That's despite changing the sway bar, its bushings, and the end links. I haven't looked down there to figure out what else to grease or replace, but that's the only annoying thing about the car right now, so I'll get to it.
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Jan 25, 2018 04:45
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If you changed shocks and all that, then it's probably a bushing somewhere. Hard to tell without having a look, though.
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Jan 25, 2018 15:10
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Yeah I'm still hearing a clunk somewhere in the car after replacing the rear endlinks with the greasable Moog ones and a new JBR sway bar, bracket and associated bushings. I'm not sure if the sway bar mount bushings just need to break in or if I need to apply more grease. Or if the Moog endlinks are noisy. I'm also hearing a clunk in the front end. I'm wondering if it's related to the transmission mount or something else in the suspension.
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Jan 25, 2018 19:05
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Jack up the car and take a pry bar to everything and see where the movement is. Did you replace shock mounts when you did them? Sway bar bushings shouldn't clunk, but they may be noisy if not greased. More of a squeak than anything. End links also should not make any noise.
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Jan 25, 2018 19:13
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I haven't done my shocks yet. Edit: a thing that made me a little nervous was how few threads of the be Moog endlinks are engaged on the bolt that goes through the JBR sway bar. With the included lock washer and nut, no threads extend through the end of the nut. I did not have any blue locktite to put on the bolts but I did of course torque them down to spec. Unrelated, for the front jack location, the family screenshot that comes up shows the floor jack location to be in some little stamped X behind the rear engine mount. When I've lifted form here it will raise the driver side an inch or two higher off the ground than the passenger side... Leading to you having to jack up the car significantly higher to get a jackstand under the passenger side. Is this where you guys lift the car from? MetaJew fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Jan 26, 2018 |
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Jan 26, 2018 00:07
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2 questions for you guys about my 2017 Mazda 6 Touring: 1. We had a cold spat here where it got down to around 6*F, and my tire pressure sensor came on. I went to the gas station and topped off all of them but the sensor is still going. It's since warmed back up so I gotta think the air has expanded back but the sensor is still going. Is there some way to get rid of that light or do I need to take it in to get checked? 2. If I play music through my iPhone when plugged in to the USB, if I'm playing Apple Music, every single song will start playing for about 10 seconds then it pauses and says reconnecting and the phone appears to stop charging and start up again like it was physically disconnected. It's pretty annoying because the sound quality is better wired and I can actually access the playlist through the console when plugged in, but I can't stand this stupid glitch. Anyone else run into this?
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Jan 26, 2018 12:37
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MetaJew posted:I haven't done my shocks yet. Doesn't sound good. Were the moog links different than the factory ones? (aka the studs on them are shorter?) If they're bolted on the ends, just buy longer bolts.
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Jan 26, 2018 13:04
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THE BIG DOG DADDY posted:2 questions for you guys about my 2017 Mazda 6 Touring: 1) Does the TPMS give you a pressure reading or just a tire light? Its possible it is now reporting that the tires are over-pressurized if you added air when it was extremely cold. 2) Have you tried a different cable to connect your phone to the head unit? I'm assuming the car is still under warranty, I'd take it to the dealer and let them deal with at least the first one and the second may be the result of flaky firmware that the dealer can update.
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Jan 26, 2018 16:07
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Measure your tire pressure with a good gauge (the ones at gas stations are bad, even the ones that you set to a certain pressure digitally). When you've inflated the tires to the correct cold tire pressure (meaning it hasn't been driven on for a few hours) indicated on the sticker on the door jamb, hold down the TPMS button to the left of the steering wheel a few seconds. The indicator light should flash twice and beep once. Now the system is calibrated to the correct pressure and will react as it should. If there is a malfunction with the system it will flash.
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Jan 26, 2018 17:38
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Do any of you have a high-milage 1st gen MS3? My 2008 is sitting at 145K, and while it is completely problem-free right now (still on the original clutch, no VVT problems yet, A/C replaced at 125K, turbo seems fine), it'll need new tires and brakes this year, and I'm thinking of just selling it instead of dropping $$$ into something that in my mind probably has problems waiting to happen. Has anyone had a good experience with a high-milage MS3?
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Jan 27, 2018 19:42
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grahm posted:Do any of you have a high-milage 1st gen MS3? My 2008 is sitting at 145K, and while it is completely problem-free right now (still on the original clutch, no VVT problems yet, A/C replaced at 125K, turbo seems fine), it'll need new tires and brakes this year, and I'm thinking of just selling it instead of dropping $$$ into something that in my mind probably has problems waiting to happen. Has anyone had a good experience with a high-milage MS3? My MS3 is a 2008 with 125K miles on it. It has never had a mechanical malfunction, unless you count a leaking oil seal and leaking passenger motor mount. No clutch or VVT problems. Normal wear and tear replacements: oil, tires, brake pads, rotors, transmission fluid, shattered fog light, spark plugs, shocks, passenger motor mount, oil seal, power steering fluid return hose. Highway heavy use in coastal California, but it's not garaged. Drives like new, and I'm actually enjoying it more now than before (since I don't feel like I should baby it).
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Jan 28, 2018 01:26
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Oh also had to replace the battery.
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Jan 28, 2018 01:31
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130k, just replaced the AC. Similar to azazello, I'm way more aggressive with the car these days and it's fun. Before that, bolt sheared on the passenger motor mount (coolant flush done) and I've had to replace the battery, suspension, and brakes/pads. Hydrolocked at 75k and I have a Gen2 engine, so VVT isn't a problem and I suppose that counts as spark plug replacement. Mechanically, the car is doing great and no plans to get rid of it anytime soon. Just oil changes and tires otherwise, possibly changing my transmission fluid soon too. Oh yeah, still on my original clutch. air- fucked around with this message at 13:32 on Jan 29, 2018 |
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Jan 29, 2018 13:25
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I'm at 180k km on my '08.5, hit a pothole last week on the loving 401 and now there's a loud-rear end clunking whenever I hit a bump on the front right, and a wicked shimmy over 90km/h. Rust is starting to pop up too, rooftop is all pitted and there's the start of bubbling in the wheel-wells. I'm tempted to trade in.
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Jan 29, 2018 14:22
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Contrary to what Fumoto says, their f106 oil drain valve fits on the current-gen 2.0l (at least on the 3, probably others) without having to use their extension adapter. In fact, if you install the full-nipple version plus the extension, it’s impossible to remove the oil filter. If I were going to buy again, I’d just buy the right-angle SX version. Maybe this comment will save someone $6. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Jan 30, 2018 |
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Jan 30, 2018 20:14
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MA-Horus posted:I'm at 180k km on my '08.5, hit a pothole last week on the loving 401 and now there's a loud-rear end clunking whenever I hit a bump on the front right, and a wicked shimmy over 90km/h. nooo 8.5 buddy 
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Jan 30, 2018 22:09
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grahm posted:Do any of you have a high-milage 1st gen MS3? My 2008 is sitting at 145K, and while it is completely problem-free right now (still on the original clutch, no VVT problems yet, A/C replaced at 125K, turbo seems fine), it'll need new tires and brakes this year, and I'm thinking of just selling it instead of dropping $$$ into something that in my mind probably has problems waiting to happen. Has anyone had a good experience with a high-milage MS3? 161k on an 07. AC compressor is smoked, and has already been replaced once. Intermediate driveshaft is smoked. Rear end clunking. VVT is starting to make noise but not super bad yet. Occasional VTCS CEL Occasional throttle actuator CEL 2nd gear grind Airbag warning lights were on, but after replacing the clock spring and deoxit'ing the connector under the passenger seat it went away But...this thing has been neglected fairly badly and I'm trying to get it back to respectability.
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Jan 31, 2018 07:33
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2016 3s GT. Love my car, just wish it had a little more oomph. Is something like this legit? How does it actually work as far as what I need to do?
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Feb 19, 2018 06:58
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Manufacturers usually leave quite a bit on the table with the factory tune, but they're shooting for optimal fuel economy and engine/drivetrain reliability and longevity over higher numbers. Also bear in mind some of the numbers they published are assuming you have bolt-on modifications added - like an intake, exhaust header & piping and/or more aggressive grind cams which all allow the engine to make more power independent of tuning. Geoj fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Feb 19, 2018 |
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Feb 19, 2018 08:03
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Welp, the VVT sound is bad now. I'm borderline on doing it myself as I need to do the AC compressor too and figure I might as well do both at the same time + doing both at a shop will be really expensive and paying labor on fixing this thing is going to push it out of being even sort of smart to own. Has anyone done it?
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Feb 19, 2018 19:43
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regulargonzalez posted:2016 3s GT. Love my car, just wish it had a little more oomph. Is something like this legit? How does it actually work as far as what I need to do? OVT are actually pretty respected from what I've seen in the mazda 6 community since they're one of the few that offer a tune for the 3.0. Maybe one day. 
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Feb 20, 2018 02:40
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Welp, the VVT sound is bad now. I did a poo poo load of them when I was at the dealer, speed3s speed6s and cx7s. If you have patience and a decent set of tools I don't think it's that bad of a job. You need the cam and crank holding tools for sure, and I would suggest doing the chain, tensioner, and the vvt actuator itself. edit: I guess I should add that when doing this job it's not a bad idea to do things like valve cover gasket, spark plugs, crank seal, etc. at the same time since everything will be apart anyway. I always used grey rtv on the timing cover, and never bothered messing with the oil pump chain. Inspect the chain guides for wear or damage but they will probably be fine. Sex Weirdo fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Feb 20, 2018 |
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Feb 20, 2018 04:29
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I was going to get this kit with the tools and the accessory belt, and work off this how-to post. Plus, it gives me an excuse to get that impact wrench I've been putting off getting. How much easier or harder would replacing the A/C compressor be "while I'm in there?" The compressor is locked up right now but the clutch is functional so as long as the A/C is kept off the pulley spins freely. It's something I definitely need to take care of soon but if it's not materially easier to do while I'm doing the VVT & timing chain stuff maybe I'll wait...
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Feb 20, 2018 08:09
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That looks like a good kit and a good diy guide as well. As far as the compressor, it would probably be a little easier to do it at the same time as the belt will be off, but I wouldnt say it's a hard job really so you could wait on doing it. Something to keep in mind is that sometimes during a catastrophic internal failure you may get some debris circulating throughout the rest of the a/c system. it would be a good idea to replace the receiver drier and flush out the lines/condenser/evap core, just to avoid any future problems.
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Feb 20, 2018 13:07
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