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Ah yes the used Kia stingers going for 25k
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Jan 24, 2018 04:14
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Ah yes the used Kia stingers going for 25k Just use a Delorean with a tow setup to go get one a few years from now. Durr.
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Jan 24, 2018 16:35
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Thermopyle posted:Just use a Delorean with a tow setup to go get one a few years from now. Durr. I am still not clear why people are going crazy about the Stinger. It doesn't seem like a great deal at all. The base trim is nothing special and the GT+ trims are just a few grand under Audi & Merc competitors - and more than an STI.
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Jan 24, 2018 17:07
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I really appreciate the suggestions. I still have a few weeks before I actually start shopping but I feel a lot better now. The Prius makes the most sense because I’m trying to get the most cost-efficient option. I’m keeping in mind the other suggestions tho. You all are great.
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Jan 24, 2018 17:07
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devicenull posted:Proposed Budget: 25-30k max You probably want a Civic SI if you want something reliable and widely available with a man trans, or if you can tolerate new the new Civic Hatch looks right up your alley. Great engine, great transmission, pretty nice inside.
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Jan 24, 2018 17:49
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The new Civic Si is a lot better than the new Civic Sport Hatch for anyone who wants to drive moderately aggressive. I'll also plug the Focus ST because you can get absurd, absurd deals on them. There is also the Elantra Sport which is fairly good and cheap.
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Jan 24, 2018 20:03
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So I take it the dealer calling me after terms have been agreed upon and an initial deposit has been made offering some sort of add-on coating for the car that allegedly means that I'd never have to wax it again at a once in a lifetime low low price is just a typical dealer manoeuver to get me to buy poo poo I don't actually need.
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Jan 24, 2018 22:06
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Breetai posted:So I take it the dealer calling me after terms have been agreed upon and an initial deposit has been made offering some sort of add-on coating for the car that allegedly means that I'd never have to wax it again at a once in a lifetime low low price is just a typical dealer manoeuver to get me to buy poo poo I don't actually need. Correct.
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Jan 24, 2018 22:08
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Breetai posted:So I take it the dealer calling me after terms have been agreed upon and an initial deposit has been made offering some sort of add-on coating for the car that allegedly means that I'd never have to wax it again at a once in a lifetime low low price is just a typical dealer manoeuver to get me to buy poo poo I don't actually need. Unless they are applying this: http://www.xpel.com/xpel-ultimate-paint-protection-film/ It's not worth it - and even THAT isn't worth it unless you have some super high end car as it'll cost 1-2k to wrap.
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Jan 24, 2018 22:54
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Let me just double check my thinking here; my parents have bad credit and for some reason want a car. They're looking at a used 2017 Kia optima and they're being offered 9.34% interest on the loan. This is obviously a very bad loan, correct?
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Jan 24, 2018 22:57
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chocolateTHUNDER posted:Let me just double check my thinking here; my parents have bad credit and for some reason want a car. They're looking at a used 2017 Kia optima and they're being offered 9.34% interest on the loan. This is obviously a very bad loan, correct? Horrific. https://www.penfed.org/auto
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Jan 24, 2018 23:03
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Haha yeah, figures. Now we'll see if I can convince them not to pull the trigger.
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Jan 24, 2018 23:06
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chocolateTHUNDER posted:Haha yeah, figures. Now we'll see if I can convince them not to pull the trigger. They shouldn't get the Kia Optima even with a 0.9% promo rate from Kia itself. An accord or a mazda 6 is in the similar price range and all around better.
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Jan 24, 2018 23:29
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10% is bad but it’s not 30% ‘buy here pay here’ territory.
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Jan 25, 2018 00:56
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After all things considered, I think I'll be ending up with an 86/Brz come the end of the year. I don't particularly know why, besides that car just grabbing me.
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Jan 25, 2018 03:09
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:10% is bad but it’s not 30% ‘buy here pay here’ territory. I convinced them to steer clear, so crisis averted! (for now).
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Jan 25, 2018 03:25
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Proposed Budget: $15-20k New or Used: Used (hopefully certified) Body Style: Sedan (small or large) How will you be using the car? Mostly driving to work (20 minute drive). I live in a semi-rural community in the upper Midwest so not spinning out in the snow is important to me. I also have to do longish drives every month or so. What aspects are most important to you? Fuel efficiency, safety I had been thinking of getting a 2016-17 Chevy Cruze, but my husband wants me to get a Honda Civic. I was thinking it might be better for me to get a domestic since the mechanics around here see domestics way more than imports. I also don't want to drive an hour to get serviced at a Honda or Toyota dealer. However, I don't want to buy a car where I'm going to have to replace the engine in a couple years. Any guidance would be much appreciated!
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Jan 25, 2018 04:47
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Thoras Hammer posted:Proposed Budget: $15-20k If not spinning out is important you have a few AWD options on the domestic front: AWD Ford Fusion: https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewPrintableDeal.action?inventoryListing=190362567 Cadillac ATS: https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewPrintableDeal.action?inventoryListing=192155063 Buick Regal: https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewPrintableDeal.action?inventoryListing=193546472 These are AWD, domestic and get nearly 30mpg on the highway. But I wouldn't get any of these - because there is this: ~2013 Lexus IS 250 AWD: https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewPrintableDeal.action?inventoryListing=193676443 https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewPrintableDeal.action?inventoryListing=192348805 https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewPrintableDeal.action?inventoryListing=191942032 No you won't find it certified for under 25k. But it doesn't matter. Because it's a Lexus. It won't break. It's a somewhat underpowered V6 with AWD and gets 27mpg. You will not spin out ever and you won't have to replace the engine either. Yes it's 5 years old. It doesn't matter. You can find one with low miles - and did I mention that it's a Lexus... The 2014s had a major redesign, but it'll be out of your price rang as a result. FileNotFound fucked around with this message at 06:27 on Jan 25, 2018 |
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Jan 25, 2018 06:24
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^^^^^ AWD isn't going to prevent you from spinning out. I refuse to believe there is anywhere in america where getting civic services is harder than a domestic.
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Jan 25, 2018 06:34
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nm posted:^^^^^ Agreed. It's not 1970 and "exotic imports" are no longer a thing. Anybody can work on anything for the most part. Most Japanese cars sold in the US are made in the US these days.
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Jan 25, 2018 06:37
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I live in a county of 50,000 people in the Midwest and it's an hour drive to the nearest Toyota or Honda dealer...which matters if you're looking at warranty work.
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Jan 25, 2018 07:50
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Thermopyle posted:I live in a county of 50,000 people in the Midwest and it's an hour drive to the nearest Toyota or Honda dealer...which matters if you're looking at warranty work. That is to some degree a concern, though a honda civic isn't probably going to need much of that. Still a valid concern. Also, CPO on cars that don't break is generally a waste of money. Like I'd CPO an AMG in a heartbeat, but a civic? Less so.
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Jan 25, 2018 08:06
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Most of the advice you've posted in this thread is either suspect or weird, friend. AWD does not help you at all with stop, helps you very, very marginally with turn (depending on the design of the system) and generally enables you to go faster than is safe. The correct answer to "how do I not spin out in the snow" is snow tires. Do not buy a Lexus IS250 if what you care about is fuel efficiency and safety, considering you can buy a Civic with HondaSensing for $21K. If you must have a domestic due to dealer access, you can get a high trim level Cruze with a shitload of driver assistance packages for $25K. How far are you from your nearest Honda or Toyota dealer? I am sure that your local indy mechanics can work on Japanese stuff, so warranty service will be the only concern. If you must have AWD, a new Impreza with EyeSight is $25,000. All of these are vastly better options than a used Lexus IS. Do not buy a CPO car. In regards to parents with low credit score, the Optima is not quite as good as the Accord or Mazda6 but is much cheaper to buy and that matters to people who are going to pay high interest rates. You cannot find a used Accord with similar features and mileage for even close to the same price as an Optima.
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Jan 25, 2018 13:15
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Most of the advice you've posted in this thread is either suspect or weird, friend. We'll start with the factual easy to prove stuff first - a 2017 Kia Optima is 12-15k - yes you will need to drop down 1 year for an Accord or a Mazda6, but if you're buying used there is really not much difference between a 2017 or a 2016, or even a 2015 for that matter... You can easily find a 2016 Mazda 6 in that price range - but here is a 2017 one: https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewPrintableDeal.action?inventoryListing=193620178 2016 Accord: https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewPrintableDeal.action?inventoryListing=188412035 Here's a 2015 with stupidly low miles: https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewPrintableDeal.action?inventoryListing=194542555 Here's a 2015 accord - yes 2 years older - but still extremely low miles: https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewPrintableDeal.action?inventoryListing=197014370 Every single one of these is a better purchase than a 2017 Kia Optima and in the same price bracket. Now on to the more subjective things: AWD doesn't help you stop, or spin out - true. Winter tires do - yes true - but nobody who is budgeting a max of 20k is setting aside $500-800 for a set of winter tires and wheels. I admit I assumed that when people refer to having to deal with snow, they are mostly referring to dealing with being stuck somewhere or not being able to make up a hill or an onramp that didn't get plowed yet. AWD helps tremendously in all of those cases - and in PA I see far more cars stranded on onramps, unplowed roads etc than I see spun out. So yes I would absolutely recommend an AWD car for anyone in the mid-west or northeast. I would not recommend a Subaru to anyone concerned about reliaiblity - Subarus love to blow head gaskets and head gasket work on a subaru sucks thanks to it's boxer engine. So you know....recommending one when someone specifically doesn't want a car that will blow it's engine is a super bad idea:  You can look at that and say "Well the 2012+ are fine!" - or maybe they just haven't blown their head gaskets yet? You can take that gamble but I sure wouldn't. The IS250 is the most reliable AWD sedan that I can think of which is why I listed it.
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Jan 25, 2018 15:22
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If you’re investing 20k in a car and not getting proper tires, AWD won’t do anything for you. Trying to get up that on ramp with 2wd or AWD doesn’t matter if you’re using poo poo or inappropriate tires for the season.
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Jan 25, 2018 15:46
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At least where I live AWD stuff tends to cost enough of a premium that it's significantly cheaper to just get snow tires on a 2wd car. And... $20k isn't exactly peanuts, it should be easy to hit that budget, get a nice car, and get snow tires? I've bought several cars in the $5-$10k range and always budgeted for new tires.
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Jan 25, 2018 16:20
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Most all seasons do just fine in the snow if you're driving like a smart person and not a moron. I've lived in Wisconsin for 27 years and hardly ever see anybody running pure snow tires unless they are driving a car that came with strictly summer tires. If you're in a very rural area that doesn't get plowed until days after, I can understand it more. We don't even run snow tires on our plow trucks, its not cost effective as A/T's do good enough when you have the weight of a 3/4 ton truck and salt.
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Jan 25, 2018 16:28
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FileNotFound posted:AWD doesn't help you stop, or spin out - true. Winter tires do - yes true - but nobody who is budgeting a max of 20k is setting aside $500-800 for a set of winter tires and wheels. I own a $3k car and have winter tires and wheels. Obviously anecdotal, and you're not wrong in saying that most people don't own snow tires, but the person is coming here for advice. We're saying "spend 19k max instead and use the remaining 1k to buy tires." You're saying "Yes, snow tires solve this problem, but no one will do that." FileNotFound posted:I admit I assumed that when people refer to having to deal with snow, they are mostly referring to dealing with being stuck somewhere or not being able to make up a hill or an onramp that didn't get plowed yet. AWD helps tremendously in all of those cases - and in PA I see far more cars stranded on onramps, unplowed roads etc than I see spun out. So yes I would absolutely recommend an AWD car for anyone in the mid-west or northeast. Snow tires also help with this situation.
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Jan 25, 2018 16:41
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Well your gimmick sure got old fast. Don't buy a low-option used Lexus for basic transportation in the rust belt. HFS. Thoras Hammer posted:Any guidance would be much appreciated! Just get a slightly used Honda or Toyota like a normal person. Unload My Head fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Jan 25, 2018 |
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Jan 25, 2018 17:05
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Thanks for all the replies thus far. I think I'll make my way to a Honda dealer (~an hour drive) this weekend to test drive Civics. It seems as if most pre-owned cars available have been part of a company or rental fleet--should I steer clear of cars that have that in their history?
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Jan 25, 2018 18:55
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FileNotFound posted:We'll start with the factual easy to prove stuff first - a 2017 Kia Optima is 12-15k - yes you will need to drop down 1 year for an Accord or a Mazda6, but if you're buying used there is really not much difference between a 2017 or a 2016, or even a 2015 for that matter... Those listings are cherry picked. Here's the national average prices for 3 year old midsize sedans, via CarGurus:
And the Optima and Sonata are pretty good cars, especially if you're shopping used. Overall they're well-rounded cars, you can get great deals on them because their reputation hasn't caught up to reality, and reliability is just a notch below Honda and Toyota.
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Jan 25, 2018 19:00
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Thoras Hammer posted:Thanks for all the replies thus far. I think I'll make my way to a Honda dealer (~an hour drive) this weekend to test drive Civics. It seems as if most pre-owned cars available have been part of a company or rental fleet--should I steer clear of cars that have that in their history? Read the thread title, do not buy a rental under any circumstance
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Jan 25, 2018 19:01
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That goes for fleet vehicles too in case that's not clear.
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Jan 25, 2018 22:59
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IRQ posted:That goes for fleet vehicles too in case that's not clear. I apologize if this is a no brainer, but I am a real car buying novice--would you also advise against buying a car that was a personal lease?
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Jan 26, 2018 03:01
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Thoras Hammer posted:I apologize if this is a no brainer, but I am a real car buying novice--would you also advise against buying a car that was a personal lease? Basically all CPO cars from a mainline brand like Honda will be personal lease or a rental or something like that. That's why several people were advising against it earlier. Like many things that are cautioned against in this thread, it's not that it's a bad idea, it just adds complication. If you know what you are doing you can buy a vintage, leased, rental, German luxury car while it's rolling down a hill on fire and somehow come out okay, but it's probably safer to avoid that. Unload My Head fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Jan 26, 2018 |
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Jan 26, 2018 03:15
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Thoras Hammer posted:I apologize if this is a no brainer, but I am a real car buying novice--would you also advise against buying a car that was a personal lease? A personal lease is fine. Most late-model used cars you'll find are lease returns. You just don't want a car that's had a year-long parade of drivers, with most of them thinking "who gives a poo poo, it's [Hertz's/Enterprise's/the company's] and I don't have to worry about what happens to it tomorrow."
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Jan 26, 2018 03:40
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FileNotFound posted:I would not recommend a Subaru to anyone concerned about reliaiblity - Subarus love to blow head gaskets and head gasket work on a subaru sucks thanks to it's boxer engine. So you know....recommending one when someone specifically doesn't want a car that will blow it's engine is a super bad idea: Your dumb stuff about purchase prices already got answered. I agree that I would prefer to spend somewhat more money for an Accord versus an Optima, but I also don't carry 9.7% interest rates. The Optima is a perfectly fine car even if it's not quite as good as an Accord. Where'd you get that data, out of curiosity, and what is the "rate of powertrain defects" based on? I have lived most of my life where we actually have snow, and the vast majority of people have snow tires on their lovely beaters / new Audis and everything in between. Snow tires matter, and are a lot cheaper than AWD in terms of purchase cost, running costs, and long term maintenance and repair cost. In this, the car thread, you should be recommending snow tires and not lousy Haldex 4 AWD systems.
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Jan 26, 2018 15:22
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Unload My Head posted:Like many things that are cautioned against in this thread, it's not that it's a bad idea, it just adds complication. If you know what you are doing you can buy a vintage, leased, rental, German luxury car while it's rolling down a hill on fire and somehow come out okay, but it's probably safer to avoid that. As with most things, if you know what you're doing you have a shot. If you are coming in to the car thread asking What car should I buy, and also What about Ex-Fleet Vehicles? you do not know what you are doing enough to buy an ex-fleet car. RIP MichaelScott aka Alias777, you loving idiot
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Jan 26, 2018 15:24
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:
http://www.dashboard-light.com/vehicles/Subaru_Impreza.html This is my bad idea: http://www.dashboard-light.com/vehicles/Lexus_IS.html I stand by the Lexus IS - it's a fantastic car even saddled with the crappy V6 it'll outlast a brand new Subaru despite being 5 years old and be cheaper to own - even with it's "lovely AWD" and inefficient engine. Godzilla07 posted:And the Optima and Sonata are pretty good cars, especially if you're shopping used. Overall they're well-rounded cars, you can get great deals on them because their reputation hasn't caught up to reality, and reliability is just a notch below Honda and Toyota. You can get great deals on them because they are pieces of loving poo poo: http://www.dashboard-light.com/vehicles/Kia_Optima.html Yup. Good car. Buy it. Don't get the Mazda 6 or Accord that's 1 year older - because the Kia is just as good.
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Jan 26, 2018 21:25
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That site seems neat. I'm a little hesitant about the source of their data, but I don't know enough about the used auto auction market (which is where their data comes from) to say for sure.
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Jan 26, 2018 22:23
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