|
 
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Jan 27, 2018 |
#
?
Jan 27, 2018 23:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 23:22 |
|
|
Replaced a few of my blown gauge cluster bulbs in the FXT with LEDs, and will replace the rest tomorrow when they arrive. I had originally ordered only the 168 bulbs but then I realized many of my mini 74s were also blown. The lights were invisible In the daytime previously, and only barely visible at night. I’m super glad that the design of the cluster allows for drop-in replacement bulbs. My friend has an Avalanche and he had to desolder and resolder new bulbs and resistors into the cluster board. CEL is on because of the camshaft position sensor, which I have sitting in the cup holder; it will be replaced along with the timing belt/water pump/idlers/ spark plugs next week. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2018 23:25
|
|
|
kastein posted:It looks like I get to check the timing on my car and swap the battery because I'm 99% sure the seller screwed his timing job up and the battery is close to dead. Called it. brand engager posted:Spent $860 to have someone else do things to the zx2 instead. While I was 20 minutes away from home, the loving idler pulley for the timing belt snapped off and some mechanic had to get the bolt out of that cramped space. I guess today is timing belt and cam sensor day in here.  All other sprockets were lined up with their marks. I wonder why it was throwing a cam sensor code and running like poo poo?  It turns out the driver side cam being advanced one tooth (7.5 degrees of cam rotation) will cause bad idle, P0302, P0304, and P0341 popping up almost instantly when you actually drive it, horrible bogging, and serious lack of power. Who would have thought that? Rear wheel bearings are horrible too. I think it needs exhaust work as well. But at least I fixed the running issue, overhead console clock, and rear wiper today.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2018 23:54
|
|
|
I'm kinda curious on how one would extract that.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2018 01:17
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
Colostomy Bag posted:I'm kinda curious on how one would extract that. Denial, anger, bargaining, depression, and acceptance, generally.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2018 01:31
|
|
|
kastein posted:Denial, anger, bargaining, depression, and acceptance, generally. and a right angle drill.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2018 01:40
|
|
|
I was classifying that under anger. Maybe bargaining if it's an HF one.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2018 01:59
|
|
|
You'd probably be successful TIG welding a nut to it and just unthreading the thing. On the other hand, most mechanic shops don't have that... Guy probably flux core'd a lug nut to it, that's SOP in most shops i've been in when something won't come apart. Hell, the front diff fill plug on my toyota even has a lug nut welded to it, all crooked. It works great.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2018 02:42
|
|
|
chrisgt posted:You'd probably be successful TIG welding a nut to it and just unthreading the thing. On the other hand, most mechanic shops don't have that... Guy probably flux core'd a lug nut to it, that's SOP in most shops i've been in when something won't come apart. Hell, the front diff fill plug on my toyota even has a lug nut welded to it, all crooked. It works great. How much torque can you pass through something welded on like that? I looked up the torque spec for that pulley and they are tightened to 26-29 lb/ft. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2018 02:51
|
|
|
brand engager posted:How much torque can you pass through something welded on like that? I looked up the torque spec for that pulley and they are tightened to 26-29 lb/ft. Surprisingly more than you'd expect, the torque spec is actually irrelevant here, though. Once the head of the bolt is missing, the threads are theoretically not under any torque at all. There's actually a chance they got a pair of needle nose pliers on there and just spun it out. If it was a bit rusty, maybe it took slightly more force, regardless, the original torque spec doesn't mean anything once it's broken off like that.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2018 03:25
|
|
|
chrisgt posted:You'd probably be successful TIG welding a nut to it and just unthreading the thing. On the other hand, most mechanic shops don't have that... Guy probably flux core'd a lug nut to it, that's SOP in most shops i've been in when something won't come apart. Hell, the front diff fill plug on my toyota even has a lug nut welded to it, all crooked. It works great. My dads Hilux, my mates Prado and the missus' Tiida all have nuts welded to drain plugs on them. The Hilux and Prado have a stupid front diff drain plug that uses a thin as poo poo copper washer and a 10mm hex, but its only about 10mm deep and half of that is chamfered in to make it easier to get into, so the fuckers strip out instantly. Welding nuts onto them under the car isnt my definition of fun. The tiida got a nut welded to its trans drain plug because the loving Renault 6 speed trans in there has some stupid internal square plug on it. Nissans got a thing for that, they use em on the Patrols too for diff plugs, but they're 1/2" so a breaker bar just locks into them. The one on the tiida isnt 3/8" and its not 1/4", its between the two, so you have to grind an M8 bolt square and hammer that in there and use a spanner on that. I just cracked it and tig'd a loving M12 nut to it last time I had to do trans fluid and lost my loving ground down bolt AGAIN. Tyre Chat- Last tires for my car were AU$419 EACH, not fitted. $425 a corner after fitting and disposal- so US$1,379 a set
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2018 04:06
|
|
|
The text on these is the fun part! Tirechat, the goal seems to be finding a popular size. The 20s on my C10 actually cost less than the 15s I ran before.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2018 04:45
|
|
|
Ferremit posted:My dads Hilux, my mates Prado and the missus' Tiida all have nuts welded to drain plugs on them. The Hilux and Prado have a stupid front diff drain plug that uses a thin as poo poo copper washer and a 10mm hex, but its only about 10mm deep and half of that is chamfered in to make it easier to get into, so the fuckers strip out instantly. Welding nuts onto them under the car isnt my definition of fun. Fortunately I wasn't the one who had to weld the lug nut to the drain plug on the toyota. Every time I have it off, I think about laying a better bead so it doesn't break.... Then I just go and put it back. (it leaks, so I top it up every oil change...). Did Australia get the sequoia? or is it too god drat gigantic for any country other than the US. Subaru also uses the internal square drive for diff plugs, 1/2" breaker bars fit but it's technically 13mm. Really rusty stuck ones strip out unless you have the 13mm drive.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2018 15:20
|
|
|
I'll be damned. I just assumed square drain plugs were always for either 3/8" or 1/2" ratchets.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2018 16:09
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:I'll be damned. I just assumed square drain plugs were always for either 3/8" or 1/2" ratchets. you'd figure automakers could make a standard and then simplify the parts making and maintenance processes. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2018 16:36
|
|
|
Well, not only is it a Japanese car built to Japanese standards (except seatbelts *), pretty much all cars made world wide are metric anyway. Also LOL at making a standard that all auto makers follow, OBD2 is a good case study how many standards there are to choose from... * Due to some weird law, seat belt bolts must be 7/16-20 thread in the US.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2018 18:47
|
|
|
Had a few extra minutes so I replaced the camshaft sensor on the FXT myself. Not difficult but I had to remove the washer bottle, two hoses, and use a hodgepodge of extensions and u-joints to get at the bolt. Then I finished replacing blown bulbs in the gauge cluster and reinstalled it. Went to start the car and the battery is dead. Awesome. Cam sensor is down here... 
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2018 19:04
|
|
|
chrisgt posted:Well, not only is it a Japanese car built to Japanese standards (except seatbelts *), pretty much all cars made world wide are metric anyway. Guess I was alluding to drive sizes.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2018 19:10
|
|
|
Imperador do Brasil posted:Had a few extra minutes so I replaced the camshaft sensor on the FXT myself. Not difficult but I had to remove the washer bottle, two hoses, and use a hodgepodge of extensions and u-joints to get at the bolt. Then I finished replacing blown bulbs in the gauge cluster and reinstalled it. Went to start the car and the battery is dead. Awesome. Consider yourself lucky the steel housing of the cam sensor didn't seize into the aluminum bore. Those are a real whore to get out when that happens...
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2018 19:55
|
|
|
chrisgt posted:Consider yourself lucky the steel housing of the cam sensor didn't seize into the aluminum bore. Those are a real whore to get out when that happens... The sensor is completely plastic...
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2018 21:33
|
|
|
Imperador do Brasil posted:The sensor is completely plastic... Oh huh, older ones were metal, didn't realize they changed to plastic.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2018 22:24
|
|
|
[Timchrisgt posted:Oh huh, older ones were metal, didn't realize they changed to plastic. This is what I pulled out of there and I replaced it with a similar piece. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2018 23:11
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:The text on these is the fun part! *** Today I walked to Canadian Tire, bought a new battery and was assured that when I bring in the bulging old battery (bought in October, full warranty) they'll refund me the full value of the old battery. The new battery is bigger and more expensive, but if I'd been offered the choice of spend $150 and risk failure vs. spend $200 and lower risk of failure, I certainly would have paid the extra $50, months ago. I swapped out the batteries, managed to bridge the electrodes with the wrench once while trying to tighten the clamp (that was exciting), and the truck started up no problem. The rolling idle issue seems to be about 90% solved. Last weekend I was feeling around the air intake and discovered a sensor - not sure which one - that was a bit mis-aligned in its housing, so I shoved it back in. I also cleaned the IAC valve because a part of the internet recommended this. Today, the truck never stalled, but getting it out of the frozen / buried parking spot was an ordeal and after spinning the tires it sometimes took a few seconds to calm down to a steady idle - it surges a bit from 500 to 1500 rpm maybe 3 or 4 times, sometimes. One thing I really like about working on my truck (97 Ranger) is I can fix some problems (tailgate, hood latch) with a hammer, and I can clean it (snow in bed) with a shovel. PROGRESS.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2018 01:22
|
|
|
Replaced the driver side axle on my Focus on a misdiagnosis (loud popping while rolling in either direction, also found the inside CVJ ejected most of its grease onto the subframe & transmission) that ended up being a dead wheel bearing. Bearing was installed in mid 2009 and about 60,000 miles ago, which isn't bad given the atrocious state of highways along my commutes over the years.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2018 04:05
|
|
|
chrisgt posted:Well, not only is it a Japanese car built to Japanese standards (except seatbelts *), pretty much all cars made world wide are metric anyway. Fun fact- Toyota went "gently caress it" and made that fucker a global standard sometime in the early 2010's.... Cos gently caress me does that suck in a metric country when your looking for a bolt to use a seatbelt mount in a metric country. In landcruiser news....  Turbo?  Turbo!  And thats the factory turbo off a 4.2L 1HD-FTE engine vs the turbo off a 2.4L 2L-TE engine (The same one Kraker has in his new to him JDM prado)  And im getting really stupid ideas starting with the word "Compound"..... Wonder how quickly a turbo designed for a 2.4L 4 pot would spool on a 4.2L 6 pot? For scale- the studs poking up out of the compressor inlet and outlet are 8mm....
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2018 05:40
|
|
|
No pictures but I de-copified the crown vic some more today. Removed the last of the blue reflective decals, and built a quick little relay setup for the trailer wiring. The stock Ford LCM (lighting control module) is not only really expensive, but can't handle more than 15A or so on the turn signal flasher channels, or so I'm told. I rent small trailers from time to time, and luckily Uhaul's motorcycle trailers are LED. However, I don't want to chance it like I have been just tapping off of the circuits, so I made a box that runs everything though relays. Bonus: using the brakes or turn signals now makes loud relay clicks from the trunk. It's a pretty nostalgic noise for me.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2018 06:03
|
|
|
oh god oh no what the gently caress is going on  no no this is all wrong make it stop  So the bimmer I got for TM2TW (1977 320i, rusty shitbox with an unknown engine swap in case you don't follow the AB:AI thread or use Slack) has driveability issues, in that it doesn't. Pulled the lines off the fuel distributor after some poking about, found all that plastic in the ports. Still lovely. I figure if the ports were blocked, PO might've been inside this thing. Open it up, sure enough the diaphragm is trashed and it was rebuilt using that red Princess Harbor Auto Freight SAE O-ring kit everyone has. Thus, poo poo show. So that needs parts (and also that was last weekend), let's go gently caress with some brakes  Well that's crustier than a whore's drawers.  Much better. That'd be why the brakes were funny.  And that's the leak taken care of, hail Satan. Stay tuned for brake hardlines, more of PO's K-jetronic fuckery (oh yeah there's more), $600 thermostats and a bounty of further horrors next whenever. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Jan 29, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2018 06:42
|
|
|
kastein posted:Stop taking the bait ya doofus But I'm genuinely concerned about how much ramen he can afford after his new high end tires that plebs can't afford.  I don't want him going hungry trying to keep the M3 alive. Maybe I should set up a gofundme for him.. for ramen, and for his next headlight bulb replacement (which I'm sure he'll drop $500 on).
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2018 08:11
|
|
|
Sadly found out that the next project is right around the corner  
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2018 16:50
|
|
|
KakerMix posted:You guys are right. For anything that doesn't need full time battery supply, use a DC/DC converter (so called step down converter) you can get them on Amazon or eBay for a few bux. Just make sure they satisfy your power needs. For constant supply like the radio memory, pull a wire to the plus of the battery that has the chassis ground on it. and solder in a fuse and a diode of adequate power rating or a shotky diode of you are fancy and want to safe some power. Generally though the power loss in the diode is dependent on the current which should be low aniways through the constant supply. This of course also works for the 12v ACC supply but a step down converter is just a lot more convenient when working with an isolated component you want to power. The diode is just a protection by the way, in theory yo can go without it but I always feel a bit safer with a diode when messing with different voltages. Never wire anything to a battery without a fuse though. Of course if you are sure about the wiring you can just take the 12v plus by using the plus from the battery that has the chassis ground for everything. Do not use the ground of the other battery for anything. This side has +12v DC to chassis ground Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Jan 31, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2018 17:15
|
|
|
Had a spooky rattling sound making me thinking a timing pulley was about to break again. Noticed one of the three bolts that hold the water pump's pulley on was missing, and found it sitting in the splash guard under the engine. Not much space to work in but I eventually got it to thread and torqued all three so this doesn't happen again.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2018 21:51
|
|
|
I drove it for the first time in months today. My long stupid thing is done. My truck is registered and insured in Quebec after passing the re-inspection this morning. Biggest, most important lesson: don't let your car insurance expire. Having no insurance, and no ability to get insurance because I moved between provinces, makes every problem bigger and creates a bunch of new problems. It still has a bad-idling problem, though. And possibly a parasitic drain, though it's hard to tell if the battery is getting drained by sitting for a few days, or by the need to start it half a dozen times before it will stay running.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2018 20:56
|
|
|
 Took the Acty to get the tires for the Crown mounted and balanced with the help of the Turtles.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2018 22:42
|
|
|
Changed out the driver side spindle with a junkyard replacement after modifying it to accept the aftermarket brakes I have. Original spindle had its strut pinch bolt snap during an alignment, couldn't separate it from the strut to replace a dead bearing. Also replaced a 6 amp battery charger that was playing the part of a 12 volt power supply in the frankenstereo I have in my garage (car stereo in a custom enclosure hooked up to shelf speakers) with a 12v switching power supply so I don't have to unplug it when not in use.
|
|
#
?
Feb 2, 2018 03:31
|
|
|
KakerMix posted:
And your blanket.
|
|
#
?
Feb 2, 2018 16:13
|
|
|
Cage posted:And your blanket. Holy poo poo that was my childhood bed comforter.
|
|
#
?
Feb 2, 2018 19:40
|
|
|
Larrymer posted:Holy poo poo that was my childhood bed comforter. Kids today are so spoiled. Back in my day, my bed was covered by a pile of tires!
|
|
#
?
Feb 2, 2018 21:32
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:Kids today are so spoiled. Back in my day, my bed was covered by a pile of tires! Cage posted:Im jealous of your cars. This is why I keep pushing importing stuff yourself on goons, it's way easy to drive neato things  Larrymer posted:Holy poo poo that was my childhood bed comforter. Heck yeah it's a rad sheet. Not worth anything at all though, and it is always been odd at how dead-eye staring they are on the thing.   Cowabunga
|
|
#
?
Feb 3, 2018 01:43
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:Kids today are so spoiled. Back in my day, my bed was covered by a pile of tires! Let me guess, you got to sleep on radials. Some of us slept on bias ply.
|
|
#
?
Feb 3, 2018 02:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 23:22 |
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:Let me guess, you got to sleep on radials. Some of us slept on bias ply. In my day it was vulcanized solid rubber or nothing!
|
|
#
?
Feb 3, 2018 02:56
|
|