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Thrasher posted:Hmm, never thought of that.. I’ll do some research.. how safe would it be on a hill? Systems like the E-Stopp can maintain cable pressure on an independent parking brake system. Wouldn’t the line lock simply be a ball valve on the brake line? This thread rules, I love lowriders and so glad to see another one in AI. I remember a long way back seeing a brake locking thing where you would apply the brakes and turn a key to lock the pressure. Long enough ago that I probably read it in a magazine so I dont remember the manufacturer or name but Id look around for that. An electric line lock would draw current the entire time and I dont think the duty cycle for them is measured in hours as I would assume the solenoid would get warm or hot eventually.
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Jan 31, 2018 17:51
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shy boy from chess club posted:This thread rules, I love lowriders and so glad to see another one in AI. Yeah I'm kinda leaning towards the drive shaft pinion mounted ebrake with mechanical cable recommended earlier in the thread. Seems to me as the most reliable option. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Pini...AiABEgIrVfD_BwE
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Jan 31, 2018 17:58
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Thrasher posted:Hmm, never thought of that.. I’ll do some research.. how safe would it be on a hill? Systems like the E-Stopp can maintain cable pressure on an independent parking brake system. Wouldn’t the line lock simply be a ball valve on the brake line? If you weren't parked for long? Probably fairly, especially coupled with being in gear. A true parking brake also isn't a guaranteed savior, I've seen too many fail. But for probably no more than an hour or so, along with being in gear? I'd trust it.
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Jan 31, 2018 23:00
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Prepped the new dash & instrument cluster.. I went with a Dakota Digital VHX product: http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=822/category_id=423/mode=prod/prd822.htm The current cluster has a broken speedo and tach. Since the replacement will have a tach in the main cluster I needed to also replace the cluster bezel as the current one has a cutout for the tach that sits on the steering column. Example:  I found a bezel on eBay and worked on fixing it up. Primer:   Paint:  Cluster installed!  Another part ready for the spring. Thrasher fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Feb 2, 2018 |
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Feb 2, 2018 14:55
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Had a few blah days recently.. but spending money on car parts makes me happy! Ordered the following: 2 x Northstar NSB-AGM24 batteries  I was originally looking at XSPower batteries but I figured they were overpriced? Northstar came out ahead and were actually cheaper.. free shipping too! score. Mechman S 240A '1-wire' GM Alternator  Jim's Machineworx SAE Battery terminals  Also ordered various wiring and other electrical connectors, ANL fuses, etc This will definitely power all the vehicle electronics and new car stereo going in.. I'm a big drum 'n bass guy and have some serious gear set aside for the stereo, so definitely need the power. The spring project pile is adding up. Thrasher fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Feb 14, 2018 |
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Feb 14, 2018 20:51
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Instead of a pinion brake (which still gives you the woes of a huge cable that has to follow the suspension articulation, why not a trans output park brake? Things like our Mitsi Canter trucks, Big nissan patrols and Landrovers use em and they are BRUTALLY efficient cos your holding force is multiplied by the diff ratio. To the point that if you reef on the handbrake in a defender when your moving you can break drivetrain components.
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Feb 15, 2018 12:40
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Ferremit posted:Instead of a pinion brake (which still gives you the woes of a huge cable that has to follow the suspension articulation, why not a trans output park brake? Things like our Mitsi Canter trucks, Big nissan patrols and Landrovers use em and they are BRUTALLY efficient cos your holding force is multiplied by the diff ratio. To the point that if you reef on the handbrake in a defender when your moving you can break drivetrain components. Interesting... I wonder if any aftermarket parts exist that would be compatible to achieve this?
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Feb 16, 2018 21:45
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My name is Jeff.. Co-workers at my office nicknamed me "Heffaaayyyy!" So, logically..   (el jefe was taken)
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Feb 16, 2018 22:02
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I'm glad 'el jefe' was taken because that's way funnier. You're a cool guy, that's a cool car. Way cool
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Feb 16, 2018 22:29
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Thrasher posted:My name is Jeff.. Co-workers at my office nicknamed me "Heffaaayyyy!" Outstanding. 
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Feb 16, 2018 22:41
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Small thought about e-brakes: Chevy Stepvans were built down to 1/2 ton size, and had drive-shaft brakes.
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Feb 17, 2018 01:58
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Just now found this thread - looks awesome already.
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Feb 17, 2018 23:00
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Thrasher posted:My name is Jeff.. Co-workers at my office nicknamed me "Heffaaayyyy!" obligatory: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkBx0gMGuhY&t=17s
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Feb 18, 2018 12:23
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Hahaha
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Feb 18, 2018 14:37
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I love this thread.
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Feb 27, 2018 18:57
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PhotoKirk posted:I love this thread. Cool, lets have a quick update then! The car looks a bit lonely in storage   I like to listen to good music when I'm lonely. Let's see what we'll be doing for sound when spring comes around. Head unit: Retro sound's Long Beach Radio https://www.retromanufacturing.com/products/1963-64-chevrolet-impala-long-beach-radio?variant=28583950339 Keep the original look and feel but pack in all the new features like MP3 / USB / iPod / XM radio etc.. - Chrome bezel, chrome face & black buttons - SiriusXM Connect Vehicle Tuner addon - Impala Replacement Automatic Power Antenna  Speakers: Front: Hertz Mille MPK 163.3 PRO http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/car-audio-speakers-system-mille-pro-mpk163-3/ - 6.5" woofer, 3" midrange, 1.14" tweeter  Rear: Hertz Mille MPK 165.3 PRO http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/car-audio-speakers-system-mille-pro-mpk165-3/ - 6.5" woofer, 1.14" tweeter  Subwoofers: (disclaimer.. I'm a DnB fanatic) 2 x 12" Ascendant Audio Havocs - Dual 1 ohm voice coils - Fs 34.9Hz - Qms 6.99 - Qes 0.40 - Qts 0.37 - Mms 252 - SPL 86.7 1W/1m - RMS 1500w   Amplifiers: Soundqubed Q1-2200.2 Mono block https://soundqubed.com/product/q1-2200-2-amplifier/ - 2300W x 1 channel @ 1ohm I may swap this out for a higher model if its insufficient to drive the 2x 1500W Havocs but I need to test this out first. I should inquire in the car audio thread as well to get some opinions.  Soundqubed Q4-90 Multi Channel https://soundqubed.com/product/q4-90-amplifier/ - 90W x 4 channels @ 4 ohm  I'll have to come up with some interesting ways to mount the speakers in the vehicle.. I do have some kick panels for the front but will probably have to locate the tweeters in the doors for best sound when the top is down. The rears ill have to put in the sides where the arm-rests are located and need to figure out some custom mounts without the convertible top supports getting in the way.. For the subwoofers I'm thinking of a birch infinite baffle where the trunk space becomes the box. I'll seal up some trunk cavities to reduce the cubic feet to match the Havoc specs and re-route some hydraulic hose with hard lines running through the baffle with bulk head fittings. Thrasher fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Feb 28, 2018 |
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Feb 28, 2018 01:54
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The weather was nice so I pulled the car out of storage. It needed a wash and I took the time to clean the blue film off the white walls: The car pulls hard to the right and the steering shakes pretty good when the car comes up to speed, so it definitely needs an alignment. I’m also thinking of adding some shims to the upper control arms and reduce the positive camber a bit. The shop only just finished the work and wasn’t able to test drive and align the car due to the winter weather.. so this will be the first thing to do. Once this is done I figure I’ll start working on putting the new dash cluster in.
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Apr 22, 2018 02:23
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Yessss! Keep posting, this build is awesome.
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Apr 22, 2018 02:29
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Thrasher posted:The weather was nice so I pulled the car out of storage. It needed a wash and I took the time to clean the blue film off the white walls: Fresh ta fuckin death.
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Apr 22, 2018 04:03
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Such an awesome looking car. Also, that head unit is sweet.
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Apr 22, 2018 04:19
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QuarkMartial posted:Such an awesome looking car. Also, that head unit is sweet. I can’t wait to install the stereo.. lots to do for that, but first need to get it safe. At least I think I fixed the toe alignment enough to drive it to a shop with computers for accuracy. I put some ceramic tiles down with about a tbsp of salt evened out between the smooth sides, slipped under the front tires. Now I can spin the tires around easily:  Built a jig.. here they face each other so I can mark where the rim will touch the wood on both sides to match:  Looks lined up, ready to measure:  Front of tire = 78 1/8”:  Behind tire = 77 13/16”  That’s 5/16” toe out... the passenger side wheel was the odd one and after an adjustment of the tie rod end I now have 3/16” toe in at a ride height where I can get over speed bumps etc. Now I can take it for fine tuning and tire balancing. Thrasher fucked around with this message at 22:44 on May 2, 2018 |
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May 2, 2018 22:11
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Thrasher posted:I put some ceramic tiles down with about a tbsp of salt evened out between the smooth sides, slipped under the front tires. Now I can spin the tires around easily: That's loving genius.
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May 2, 2018 22:20
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I don't get it - please explain the tiles, salt, and spinning the tires. (suspension setup is still a mystery to me)
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May 4, 2018 18:45
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extreme_accordion posted:I don't get it - please explain the tiles, salt, and spinning the tires. When doing alignment work like adjusting the toe, you want to have the suspension loaded, so the car on the ground, and you also want the wheels to turn easily, usually an alignment rack will have the front wheels on a free rotating platform so that it's easy to adjust. If you don't have a free rotating platform then the tire will resist changes in rotation. The home made solution is using tiles with salt between their faces. You create a low friction interface allowing the wheel to rotate left and right with little friction compared to just tire against floor.
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May 4, 2018 18:55
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Bajaha posted:The home made solution is using tiles with salt between their faces. You create a low friction interface allowing the wheel to rotate left and right with little friction compared to just tire against floor. Yup exactly.. in retrospect i could have used graphite/grease or maybe sand instead of salt. I should keep any and all salt miles away from this vehicle.
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May 4, 2018 19:47
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I've heard of people using two trash bags.
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May 5, 2018 14:32
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I want to build a low rider now. TIL that canadian plymouth furys were assembled and sold here as dodge phoenix and it's absolutely the cheapest old 60s car you can buy now, like 10k, while fairlanes are more like 20k for the 60s models and I don't want to make them ride low anyway. unnfff..Only sedans were sold here unfortunately, same as fairlanes
Fo3 fucked around with this message at 14:06 on May 6, 2018 |
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May 6, 2018 14:04
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Fo3 posted:I want to build a low rider now. TIL that canadian plymouth furys were assembled and sold here as dodge phoenix and it's absolutely the cheapest old 60s car you can buy now, like 10k, while fairlanes are more like 20k for the 60s models and I don't want to make them ride low anyway. Where are you located? Here is one that needs some TLC: https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/ottawa/1968-plymouth-fury-iii-2-door-fast-top-big-block-car/1352425111
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May 6, 2018 17:23
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So I figured I should get started on replacing the dash cluster. Time to take the old one out with the broken speedometer and tachometer:  There we go:  There is a bunch of surface rust on the dash brackets and crappy old padding.. and a terrible mess of wiring. All this will be repaired or replaced when I pull out the interior to add the sound deadening. For now I'm just looking to get everything functional. But wait, the UPS guy delivered a new package! A DC contactor and some DPDT momentary switches:  I decided I wanted to add in a remote disconnect for the hydraulics rather than solely rely on the manual disconnect that's located in the trunk. This will be more convenient when I park the car for a quick stop or go on long trips and want to disable the switches so I don't bump them with my knee on the highway etc.. Also gives me an excuse to add in a hidden switch. This is more interesting now so I switch gears. I figure ill place the switch for the contactor behind the actual pump switches under the dash.. and the contactor will be in the trunk near the manual disconnect. The contactor takes 12v to activate the coil so I'll supply this from the battery in the front of the car. It's a latching relay which means there is no draw on either state of the contactor. Time to fabricate some brackets.. Switch bracket:     Contactor plate:    I cleaned up the area in the trunk for the contactor plate and cut some new 1/0 gauge wiring. The contactor will interrupt the circuit between the first battery in the series and the manual disconnect to the frame ground:  Welded the contactor plate in and painted the area with trunk paint. Things seem to fit:  Contactor installed:  I had enough spare wires in the 9-wire that fed the hydraulic switches to supply the contactor coil with a power feed from the switch up in the dash. Only two were required (+/- polarity flipped for inverse operation of the contactor). I did upgrade the wiring terminal in the trunk for the additional use though:  Working in the trunk is.. comfortable?  Finally adding the switch bracket in place under the dash:   In case I forget what year the car is:  Works perfectly! Now I can re-focus on the cluster install.. for the next post I guess.
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May 7, 2018 00:20
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Thrasher posted:Where are you located? Here is one that needs some TLC: Australia. That's why it was a big deal learning about them.
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May 7, 2018 03:54
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Fo3 posted:Australia. That's why it was a big deal learning about them. drat... expensive to ship something and import it, if that’s even possible I guess?
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May 17, 2018 03:35
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Gave the digital dash install a shot but ran into a few snags.. The Dakota Digital VHX is an awesome product and comes with digital sending units to replace the old mechanical ones:  I have to install the speedometer pulse generator, new water temp probe, and oil pressure sender. These have newer electronic wiring to combine with the existing vehicle wiring from sensors like the fuel level sender and turn signals etc.. all feeding into the new dash controller.  The oil pressure unit went in fine at the back of the intake manifold, by the distributor coil.   The water temp gauge, however, had some clearance issues.  On top of this the speedometer unit is getting in the way of the shifter linkage.  So I’ve ordered two new parts.. A new water outlet thermostat housing with a 45 degree angle for the hose, and a small speedometer extension cable to allow the speedo sending unit to be placed away from the transmission and shifter linkage. Now to wait some more for parts to arrive At least the new digital cluster looks sweet installed! 
Thrasher fucked around with this message at 03:59 on May 17, 2018 |
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May 17, 2018 03:57
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Those gauges look hot af. Dakota Digital makes a nice cluster, and one day I want to put one in my cruiser but that'll be a long way down the line.
Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 04:19 on May 17, 2018 |
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May 17, 2018 04:16
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I like your style! Here is mine:
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May 17, 2018 08:25
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Budget Monty posted:I like your style! Here is mine: 
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May 17, 2018 09:03
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Those gauges look awesome thrasher. That's a great looking ferrari you have there budget monty 
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May 17, 2018 10:20
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Budget Monty posted:I like your style! Here is mine: This picture is loving great. Ferrari, Ferrari, Ferrari, Ferrari, WHATSUP MOTHERFUCKERS LETS PARTY
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May 17, 2018 10:30
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Budget Monty posted:I like your style! Here is mine:  looking fine sir! On its side too.. 4 pumps? I can’t do side2side with my 2 pump setup.. Blacknose posted:This picture is loving great. Who says you don’t bring a lowrider to crash a Ferrari party? So awesome. Thrasher fucked around with this message at 13:42 on May 17, 2018 |
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May 17, 2018 13:40
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I love this thread.
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May 17, 2018 13:44
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Holy crap.. FedEx delivery came early! Shortys, Glasspacks, and new valve stem seals..   Totally wasn’t expecting this for a while.. 
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May 17, 2018 18:30
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