|
MRC48B posted:You can get automatic devices for compressors, that will either detect water in the drain tube, or blow down based on runtime or a time clock. NYCNC on YT has a video where he builds a arduino based board that sees if his compressor is draining. if the valve get plugged or fails to drain, it even texts him. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1i28ovYGqUM
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2018 20:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 22:43 |
|
|
Air compressor chat: anyone got a recommended magnetic starter for a 5HP split phase compressor? My pressure switch is just about cooked from switching the 30A load. I want to do it right, but there's a lot of options ranging from cheap Chinese crap to SquareD's that are like $300.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2018 23:17
|
|
|
I mean, the correct answer is the  IEC or NEMA motor starter made by squareD or whomever.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2018 23:51
|
|
|
DrBouvenstein posted:Just a heads up that Amazon is doing a 1-day deal on some DeWalt tools. So a few days ago I did not need a biscuit joiner, but now I do. Anyone know of a similar deal?
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2018 00:36
|
|
|
MRC48B posted:I mean, the correct answer is the There's stuff in between, like WEG. I know I need UL rating, but I could literally spend $125 or $1250. I didn't how if anyone had a unit they'd used and liked that was reasonable.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2018 06:26
|
|
|
If I were to buy a Dremel type tool should it be the Dremel 4000? Using it for general purpose domestic and hobby poo poo, would like it to be able to handle anything I might want such a tool for in the future. Basically is it worth buying over the 3000 or is there a 3rd party alternative better than both for a comparable price? Immortal Wombat fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Mar 1, 2018 |
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2018 22:06
|
|
|
Immortal Wombat posted:If I were to buy a Dremel type tool should it be the Dremel 4000?
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2018 22:45
|
|
|
peepsalot posted:My dremel is really old so I don't really know how the current product line compares, but all I have to say is that I'd recommend getting a kit that includes(or buy it separately) the "ez lock" mandrel and cutoff wheels. They are way better than the really brittle non reinforced ones that just thread through a tiny screw. Oh god. The federal government should mandate that safety glasses must be included in every single package of the old style cut off wheels.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2018 02:16
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Oh god. The federal government should mandate that safety glasses must be included in every single package of the old style cut off wheels. If you use them right, they get real fuckin tiny before they explode. Smaller pieces to dodge 
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2018 16:01
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Oh god. The federal government should mandate that safety glasses must be included in every single package of the old style cut off wheels. "Run for 60 seconds before use each time" haha
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2018 17:42
|
|
|
Protip: Keep face off-plane of the spinning disc actually just wear goggles or face shield
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2018 18:40
|
|
|
I've never seen one fly off but I've popped a few collars and that feels pretty sketchy. edit: that wasn't a dremel though but a big heavy fuckoff grinder Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Mar 3, 2018 |
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2018 01:06
|
|
|
I thought the goal of dremel cutoff discs was to see how quickly you can get them to disintegrate.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2018 01:10
|
|
|
When I was a kid I got an object lesson when one of those brown dremel cutoffs broke and flew into the corner of my eye, made me a safety glasses stickler for life. Whoever said to be conscious of the plane of rotation's right too, cuz when they disintegrate the pieces fly within a 20deg window or so, centered on that plane. And they break when the line of force is significantly out of plane, in my experience. Or just whenever they want to.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2018 23:37
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Air compressor chat: anyone got a recommended magnetic starter for a 5HP split phase compressor? My pressure switch is just about cooked from switching the 30A load. I want to do it right, but there's a lot of options ranging from cheap Chinese crap to SquareD's that are like $300. Why not do a couple of solid state relays on the same pressure switch? Two that are each big enough for the big inductive current (when mounted to an aluminum heatsink) that are UL listed are probably only $25/ea.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2018 00:50
|
|
|
I'm assuming he wants a motor starter for the overcurrent protection, otherwise a contactor would also suffice. I can vouch for SquareD making a solid product, we used a few of them for big rack compressers. Eaton also makes a good starter. Saw a lot of those used in exhaust fans, and they rarely ever had issues. But with either of those brands you'll be looking at a $200-$250 price range.. ExplodingSims fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Mar 4, 2018 |
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2018 03:12
|
|
|
peepsalot posted:My dremel is really old so I don't really know how the current product line compares, but all I have to say is that I'd recommend getting a kit that includes(or buy it separately) the "ez lock" mandrel and cutoff wheels. They are way better than the really brittle non reinforced ones that just thread through a tiny screw. Completely agree. While I exclusively use Proxxon machines (which are in my opinion just oh so much better than the Dremel in every way), I go with the ez-lock cutoff wheels. Not only are the wheels reinforced and generally decent quality, I think the main reason they last me as long as they do is that whenever there is a bit of axial force it just bends a little bit at the mandrel instead of instantly shattering. That, and the fact that I have never had one just disintegrate from spinning it at the max speed of the tool. Granted, they are expensive, but they last long enough that it is easily worth it in both money and hassle. I only ever bring out those little center-screw ones when the ez-lock thing is too big for the job, and that is rarely enough that I can both remember to use great caution and live with using up about one disc per 10 seconds of cutting action.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2018 07:34
|
|
|
ionn posted:I exclusively use Proxxon machines (which are in my opinion just oh so much better than the Dremel in every way) Interesting. Please elaborate. Also, for general purpose hobby/domestic stuff, do you think I would be best served by this, this, or something else? Are the 12 volt versions worth considering at all? Thanks man, really appreciate the information \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ Immortal Wombat fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Mar 4, 2018 |
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2018 10:19
|
|
|
Immortal Wombat posted:Interesting. Please elaborate. I use the FBS 240/E and I'm really happy with that. The more-metal one seems to just be higher precision and, well, more metal, which of course always is nice. Haven't really considered the 12V ones as I don't have multiple tools in one place (where you can share the transformer) and I like having it be portable. I've used (but do not own) some other Proxxon-brand mini tools (a sander and a band saw), and while they were kind of small and cute they seemed to do the job properly. Comparing it to the Dremel I replaced, there are a few things that stood out to me. It comes with a 3-jaw chuck (something I had to buy separately for the Dremel), it has a speed control knob that is separate from the on-off switch*, it had more power and higher top speed and generally just felt more solid, and most of all there is no annoying bearing/rattling noise. There's of course a lot of whine from the electric motor, but compared to the absolutely shrieking Dremel tool it is so much less noisy. Can do most things without having to use ear protection, something I could never do with the Dremel. I have also used both brands with a simple drill-press thing, and while the Dremel one was all plastic and wobbly, the Proxxon one is entirely metal and pretty stiff and solid. Same thing with the flexible shaft thing (that I sometimes need for tight situations). The Dremel one seemed rather lovely, rattling and making noise and sometimes seizing when bending it a bit too much, while the similar Proxxon one just works. I don't remember the exact prices of those accessories, but there was in any case not a huge difference between the brands. Now, it was a few years ago since I last used a Dremel-brand tool, I went German and never looked back. Maybe Dremel shaped up a lot in the last few years, but I somehow doubt it. Have used multiple Dremel machines in the past and they were all pretty much the same, so it wasn't just that mine was worse than general either. *) I've seen some more recent Dremel tools that looked like they had a separate on/off switch. Mine (as well as others I've used) had just one slider that would turn it on as well as adjust the speed, and I hated this enough to put a lamp switch on the power cord to be able to turn it on and off without changing the speed setting.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2018 11:32
|
|
|
CarForumPoster posted:Why not do a couple of solid state relays on the same pressure switch? Two that are each big enough for the big inductive current (when mounted to an aluminum heatsink) that are UL listed are probably only $25/ea. "UL" listed. Those are knockoffs. And yeah, what I need is a full blown contactor/starter setup. This is 20 ish amps running. I only paid $600 for the compressor, spending half again as much for a starter seems high, but if that's what they cost... I may troll eBay for a used one.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2018 14:54
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:"UL" listed. Those are knockoffs. And yeah, what I need is a full blown contactor/starter setup. This is 20 ish amps running. I only paid $600 for the compressor, spending half again as much for a starter seems high, but if that's what they cost... I may troll eBay for a used one. On automationdirect.com you can buy a 25A 110V coil Fuji Electric contractor for $30.50 and the overloads that go to 20A for $25.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2018 16:57
|
|
|
Is there any sort of 4 inch diamond/carbide hole saw out there that will fit in a drill press? Preferably without the pilot point? I know that'll be a bitch to keep from walking around, but I figure if I put the speed as slow as possible it'll be ok. I've got a bunch of old pieces of Granite counter top that I want to make in to some poo poo (coasters). I've got concrete coring stuff at work that I could use, but I'd have a hard time securing the pieces to...... whatever to keep them from moving around. Plus even on low speed it'd still be too fast to keep the bit from walking around.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2018 21:20
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:"UL" listed. Those are knockoffs. And yeah, what I need is a full blown contactor/starter setup. This is 20 ish amps running. I only paid $600 for the compressor, spending half again as much for a starter seems high, but if that's what they cost... I may troll eBay for a used one. I mean, for something like that, you could just use a 30A 2pole contactor with a 208V coil and a fused disconnect, you don't necessarily need a full blown starter setup.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2018 21:21
|
|
|
wesleywillis posted:Is there any sort of 4 inch diamond/carbide hole saw out there that will fit in a drill press? Preferably without the pilot point? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-4-1-8-in-Diamond-Grit-Hole-Saw-HDG418/203570978 I haven't used that kind but I have used Milwaukee Or could cut them into squares and take a hand grinder to them with some 80-200 grit on it to break the edges? I don't know how thick your granite is but going through it with a drill press seems tough and hot
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2018 21:43
|
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-4-1-8-in-Diamond-Grit-Hole-Saw-HDG418/203570978 I haven't used that kind but I have used Milwaukee poo poo yeah! Why the gently caress couldn't I find that? Its probably an inch thick. I've cut a lot of concrete with diamond bits, you just use some water to flush/cool the bit and you're good. Rebar sucks though. I'll probably also keep a vacuum handy for dust and then just use a spray bottle for water.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2018 22:01
|
|
|
wesleywillis posted:poo poo yeah! Why the gently caress couldn't I find that? Yea I do a lot of work with stone and tile, I've just never used the inside of a hole saw cut  Its always fun drilling into concrete and hitting rebar. Post pics of your project please! $65 is definitely in the "do I really need this for a one time project" territory but it could turn out really nice. I've wanted to do some marble inlay coasters using my ring saw for a while now and haven't gotten around to trying it and the local restore has so much good cutoff
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2018 22:10
|
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:Yea I do a lot of work with stone and tile, I've just never used the inside of a hole saw cut I will definitely post pics, but the way these things go, it'll be about three years from now before I get around to it. I've already had the pieces for 6 or 7 years at least, collecting dust. I've got a whole bunch of pieces, so I might consider giving them away for jesus day gifts or something. 65 bucks isn't that bad, but yeah, also the fact that it'll probably be dull as gently caress by the end......... If I can figure out how to anchor both work piece and coring machine down, I'll probably do some bigger diameter ones for hot pot coasters or something. The smaller ones I'll probably use a drill press. I just have to go to a craft store or home despot for some sticky felt for the bottoms.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2018 22:36
|
|
|
I was looking on Craigslist for 6 inch belt sanders cuz I’m thinking of upgrading and the only thing people are selling are drum and wide belt sanders. It’s like everyone agreed to all put them up at once.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2018 23:26
|
|
|
ExplodingSims posted:I mean, for something like that, you could just use a 30A 2pole contactor with a 208V coil and a fused disconnect, you don't necessarily need a full blown starter setup. Ok, cool. I'll see what's available. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2018 13:04
|
|
|
So here is an odd one. My grandfather has dementia and we're having issues where he keeps disconnecting his cable TV for some reason, then he gets super frustrated and calls for help to get his TV working. I haven't a clue why he does it but I was thinking I could add some of those coax locks the cable companies sometime use to prevent you adding a splitter. Anyone know what the locks are even called? Whats the tool called to add them? And where can I buy both? I need 2 or 4 so I can just lock down his setup. I can find removal tools on amazon, but no luck with the actual locks and the tool to add them. I'm hoping they just have some unique name Im not finding.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2018 17:10
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Ok, cool. I'll see what's available. Thanks. https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Motor_Controls/Fuji_Contactors_-z-_Overloads/9_to_25_Amp/SC-E05-220VAC With https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Motor_Controls/Fuji_Contactors_-z-_Overloads/9_to_25_Amp/TK-E02-2200 Will work. Just use 2 of the 3 poles. Use 240V through the pressure switch, it should actuate the contactor. I'm not sure though, since household voltage is just two 120V hot legs, how the contactor will react. At work, our 240V is stepped down from 480 3 phase, so it's a hot and a neutral. To be safe, you could put the pressure switch on lower voltage (120V) coming from a switch. That would turn the compressor on off (by eliminating the control voltage) and using https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Motor_Controls/Fuji_Contactors_-z-_Overloads/9_to_25_Amp/SC-E05-110VAC
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2018 17:11
|
|
|
keep it down up there! posted:So here is an odd one. I'm a bit pressed for time but hopefully any of these links help you out in finding what you need. https://smile.amazon.com/Tinksky-Inch-Terminator-Cable-Locking/dp/B011GCLP8Q/ https://www.showmecables.com/tamper-proof-security-sleeve-tool-for-f-connector?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-ovPrN3V2QIVDY3ICh3y4QQDEAQYASABEgLWMPD_BwE
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2018 18:46
|
|
|
https://www.showmecables.com/tamper-proof-security-sleeve-for-f-type-connector
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2018 19:09
|
|
|
Thanks! Security Sleeve seems to be the keyword I needed.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2018 19:17
|
|
|
EvilBeard posted:https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Motor_Controls/Fuji_Contactors_-z-_Overloads/9_to_25_Amp/SC-E05-220VAC Sweet. I'll put together an order. Thanks for the links. I still need an enclosure, but I've got a few around. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Mar 6, 2018 |
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2018 05:20
|
|
|
So I got myself a Proxxon FBS 240/E, seems nice and solid, good case. (thanks ionn) The manual is full of dire warnings about not using other brand's parts but I assume Dremel bits would work fine? They are a lot easier to buy locally. If anyone has experience on the matter please let me know Immortal Wombat fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Mar 10, 2018 |
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2018 17:20
|
|
|
Immortal Wombat posted:So I got myself a Proxxon FBS 240/E, seems nice and solid, good case.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2018 17:38
|
|
|
Immortal Wombat posted:The manual is full of dire warnings about not using other brand's parts but I assume Dremel bits would work fine? They are a lot easier to buy locally. That sounds just like the normal way of dodging any blame for others crappy bits. I don't think I have a single proxxon brand bit. Dremel bits seem to be of good quality, and I use drills and grinder bits from whatever random brand and it's all good. Have had lots of cheap cutoff wheels shatter or even wobble so bad that it bent the shank though.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2018 13:04
|
|
|
After 3 rooms of laminate and trim, my saw blade is getting pretty dull and is burning the MDF trim I'm cutting. I've got another room of laminate and trim to do, then it will probably not be used a bunch. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TH8HK8 Is it worth sharpening, or just buy a new one? If sharpening, do I pay to have it done or do i do it DIY?
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2018 22:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 22:43 |
|
|
canyoneer posted:After 3 rooms of laminate and trim, my saw blade is getting pretty dull and is burning the MDF trim I'm cutting. I've got another room of laminate and trim to do, then it will probably not be used a bunch. That looks like the carbide is plenty big enough to take a couple sharpenings, but that cost is per-tooth. Higher tooth counts get sort of expensive, and it's not quite as worth it if the blade is inexpensive. That one is sort of in a middle-ground. You might have someone local, but otherwise Ridge Carbide is the best. https://ridgecarbidetool.com/sharpening-service/ If the blade is particularly dirty/pitchy, it's worth cleaning too. You'd be very surprised how often a blade seems ridiculously dull but doesn't actually need to be sharpened. Soak in Simple Green (or something similar) for 5-10 minutes and scrub it a little with a nylon or brass brush.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2018 23:15
|
|
