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El Grillo posted:(on an advanced driving course that's modelled off the UK police driving course - don't ask) Nope. I'm asking - did you take a police driving course? Sounds like fun, how was it?
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Mar 19, 2018 20:25
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rdb posted:I would look at the O2 sensor voltage, if its bouncing around too and leading the fuel trims, replace it. When tuning my cobalt ss/tc I could tell the difference between a new O2 and one with 20k miles on it, symptoms were similar but not as extreme. Will do. I was planning a new one next week anyway. Got the new fuel filter on a few minutes ago, haven't driven it yet (THOUGHT I had depressurized the system by pulling the fuel pump relay with it running and waiting until it died, then trying to start it a few times... still got a healthy spray  ).So while I was under there, spotted this guy hangin out with the spring. Anyone have a clue where it used to live? I'm guessing it used to go between the top of the spring and the rest of the car. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Mar 19, 2018 |
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Mar 19, 2018 23:42
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Will do. I was planning a new one next week anyway. Got the new fuel filter on a few minutes ago, haven't driven it yet (THOUGHT I had depressurized the system by pulling the fuel pump relay with it running and waiting until it died, then trying to start it a few times... still got a healthy spray That lower part is suspiciously shiny on an otherwise dirty undercarriage. Could it have come from there?
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Mar 19, 2018 23:54
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It's not someone's backyard spring compression tool that they used to install the new coil?
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Mar 20, 2018 00:02
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It's definitely dry rotted rubber that probably couldn't hold a pound, much less compress a spring. And the springs are original, AFAIK (I got the car with 60k, 1 owner before me, has 200k now). It's also one piece.spankmeister posted:That lower part is suspiciously shiny on an otherwise dirty undercarriage. Could it have come from there? That's what I thought too, but the other side looks the same.
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Mar 20, 2018 00:11
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Any recommendations for getting my '77 280Z to pass CA Smog? (I haven't tried yet) I'm going to convert it to electric but it needs to pass smog so I can put current tags on it while it sits on the street for a couple months before we can start the real work. Thus I don't want to spend a lot of time or money tuning the engine. It seems to run pretty well right now, (idles where it should, no smoke out exhaust, no obvious big leaks, etc) so maybe it will pass OK on the first try, but I'm suspicious of a 41 year old car's ability to do so. Searching online there are some additives people recommend but idk if those are snakeoil or what. Also most of these additives have directions like, "add this to a full tank of gas, drive it to near-empty, then refill the tank and go get smogged" but I don't even plan to drive it that much in total over the next couple months.
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Mar 20, 2018 00:14
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Had a 280ZX for a while, it seemed to run just fine but never would pass emissions on its own. Eventually we determined that unplugging two fuel injectors made it still run "well enough" to pass AZ's testing while now blowing clean as a whistle. However, I suspect the visual on California's inspections would actually notice some disconnected wiring harnesses 
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Mar 20, 2018 00:23
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There are additives like this which claim to (temporarily) reduce NOx, CO, and hydrocarbon emissions. Then there's others like this which say they clean up an old failing catalytic converter (again, temporarily). I don't know which of these, if any, I'd need. Should I just go get it smogged and see if/how it fails first?
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Mar 20, 2018 00:50
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bawfuls posted:There are additives like this which claim to (temporarily) reduce NOx, CO, and hydrocarbon emissions. Then there's others like this which say they clean up an old failing catalytic converter (again, temporarily). That's what I would do, unless there's some penalty for failing. Make sure you have a problem before you try to fix anything.
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Mar 20, 2018 00:56
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order two injectors if they're cheap, disable them so they don't fire and reinsert them with wiring and all. Comedy option: source a Chrysler air pump and dilute the exhaust.legsarerequired posted:
I wouldn't install a bypass module into a Yaris airbag system if I was planning on keeping any of the airbags functional. The computers are a loving expensive bitch to work on and it's super hard to trace out any faults if/when you blow something with a bad module. My first instinct in this terrible, terrible sequence of ideas would be to buy a beater truck...but if you're dead set on this, I think the best option is completely disassembling the passenger seat, digging out all the circuitry and making some kind of enclosure for it before reconnecting it. I reckon it won't fire because the passenger weight criteria will never be met but as far as the system will be concerned, everything looks OK electrically.
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Mar 20, 2018 00:57
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Yeah what's the goal of the Yaris mod here anyway
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Mar 20, 2018 01:01
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Deteriorata posted:That's what I would do, unless there's some penalty for failing. Make sure you have a problem before you try to fix anything. Unless someone in AI has experience with CA smog failure?
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Mar 20, 2018 01:02
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In most states you just have to fix the problem and retest before your registration expires. May/may not have to pay again.
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Mar 20, 2018 01:55
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god damnit, I pulled the bearing out of the hub and the thing disentegrated. Now I have a stuck outer bearing race in the upright. Do I just take a dremel to it?
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Mar 20, 2018 03:40
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I feel like a beater pre-airbag car you can tear whatever out of at will is going to cost less than whatever airbag bypass shenanigans. Question: What is the proper name of this part, so I can look for replacements: 
Javid fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Mar 20, 2018 |
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Mar 20, 2018 04:24
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Door check.
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Mar 20, 2018 06:13
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Replaced the vacuum line that needed it and treated the intake with sea foam. The Z ran noticeably stronger after that so hopefully it passes smog tomorrow.
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Mar 20, 2018 06:30
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bawfuls posted:Replaced the vacuum line that needed it and treated the intake with sea foam. The Z ran noticeably stronger after that so hopefully it passes smog tomorrow. Change the oil if it hasn't been done recently, that'll also help smog numbers if the oil's been in there awhile. And get it good and warm - take it up on the highway for a bit, romp on it a bit if you can. You need to get the cat good and toasty. rdb posted:I would look at the O2 sensor voltage, if its bouncing around too and leading the fuel trims, replace it. When tuning my cobalt ss/tc I could tell the difference between a new O2 and one with 20k miles on it, symptoms were similar but not as extreme. So I watched fuel trims and O2 on my first drive after replacing the filter. Long term fuel trim is rock solid stable at idle and ~2000 RPM now, instead of swinging. Short term is fluctuating with the O2 sensor at idle (basically following it... sensor goes lean, it goes up about 3%... sensor goes rich, it goes down about 3%... instead of +/- 15%). But.... I noticed the O2 is sometimes hanging full rich while just cruising (and occasionally at idle), and when that happens, short term pulls fuel pretty hard (up to -18%). Then the pinging starts. Not nearly as bad as before, but it's there. So a new O2 sensor (and an ignition switch... gently caress you, Passlock, just glad I knew about Passlock issues and that I needed to do a relearn when it wouldn't start tonight) will be ordered when I get paid. e: it also starts a lot easier now. i used to regularly get some extended cranking/stumbling, haven't had that happen again yet. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Mar 20, 2018 |
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Mar 20, 2018 06:54
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Change the oil if it hasn't been done recently, that'll also help smog numbers if the oil's been in there awhile. And get it good and warm - take it up on the highway for a bit, romp on it a bit if you can. You need to get the cat good and toasty.
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Mar 20, 2018 07:12
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Since the a/c thread fell into the archives... I need to get my a/c working again soon. We've already broken 80 a few times, which is fine without a/c, but much above that is going to get uncomfortable in a hurry. I also have a move coming up this summer, and I'd like to have it working by then. 2006 Saturn Ion. Original compressor had the clutch let go, decided it was cheaper to toss an ebay reman compressor on (STUPID STUPID STUPID). Reman lasted a week before seizing. I know I'm looking at a new compressor, expansion valve, and condenser, at the very least. Should I go ahead and add lines to the parts list? Replacing the evaporator isn't something I really want to do; I'd rather backflush it and throw in an inline filter (the car isn't really worth yanking the dash apart on). Rockauto has a kit that almost sounds too good - it's the condenser, expansion valve w/filter, compressor, and a bunch of o-rings, for under $300. I plan to add lines and maybe another inline filter. It sounds like that expansion valve may include the orifice tube, but if not, it's only $2 to add on. There's a couple of Four Seasons kits that are compressor + condenser (dryer is part of the condenser in my case) as well. The one I linked will be warrantied so long as I have proof the remainder of the system was flushed. Should I pull the trigger on the bundle? $300ish (shipped) for almost everything I need sounds pretty good. I haven't opened the system up yet to see how bad the carnage is, but I do know the schraders are seized in the existing lines, so they would need to be replaced anyway (they still open/close, but can't be unscrewed for replacement).
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Mar 20, 2018 08:34
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You should spend for the evap too. If the shraders are seized then you know its full of debris as well. Sucks, but why spend $300 plus labor only to have it fail in a day. E: re-read that bit about the schraders. I would pull the compressor and have a look first, but plan on replacing the evaporator anyways. It looks like its a cheap enough part but a full day to swap. rdb fucked around with this message at 13:46 on Mar 20, 2018 |
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Mar 20, 2018 13:27
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2010 Pontiac G5, whatever the cheapest one they sold in Canada was 2.2L I think? I replaced the headlights on the car ~3 years ago, recently the drivers side headlight stopped work, lo-beam only. When I go to unlock the car with the remote both headlights flash and stay on, when I start the car only the passengers side comes on. If I turn the car off and unlock with the remote again both lights come on, exact same brightness. Hi-beam works fine on both lights. I went and bought a new pack of lights, but I'm hesitant to open it if I don't have to, I'm having trouble believing the light burned out so quickly. I should be able to see if the filament is burned out if I take the light bulb right? I already tried replacing the fuses for lo-beams on both lights.
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Mar 20, 2018 14:56
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There's a good chance it uses the high beams at reduced power for indication when you unlock / etc. What kind of bulbs did you use? A lot of aftermarket bulbs that claim to be brighter, do so by greatly sacrificing lifespan.
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Mar 20, 2018 15:00
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IOwnCalculus posted:There's a good chance it uses the high beams at reduced power for indication when you unlock / etc. That would make a lot of sense, I bought lovely aftermarket "brighter" bulbs
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Mar 20, 2018 15:01
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DariusLikewise posted:I should be able to see if the filament is burned out if I take the light bulb right? If the filament has catastrophically failed and fell off, yes, but I've seen plenty of bulbs that I would have sworn were fine from a visual check that were actually burned out. You could swap bulbs between the two housings and see if the symptoms follow the bulb or the housing. Geoj fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Mar 20, 2018 |
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Mar 20, 2018 15:20
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A lot of times, you can flick the rear of the bulb and it'll magically work again for the next two weeks. Other times the entire thing explodes inside your headlight assembly leaving shattered glass forever inside the lens.
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Mar 20, 2018 16:35
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Javid posted:Well, that video shows the problem. If you still need one try calling the dealer, they've been the only place I've ever been able to find them when they are missing/broken short of the junkyard and at least Ford was selling them for like $13. I would also suggest replacing any missing parts, usually vacuum lines connected to the airbox are either emissions or sensor related. Having an 85 dodge myself I know they may be no help at all but it's worth a try.
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Mar 21, 2018 03:51
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The guy replaced the entire exhaust, minus cats, so that's been fun to discover. Every day I find more.
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Mar 21, 2018 04:05
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Is there a recommendation for an iOS app to connect to my cheap OBD2 adapter? I don’t mind paying.
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Mar 21, 2018 06:40
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You're looking for a cheap android phone. The Bluetooth stack in apple phones is missing lots of features that don't really make much sense to leave out. Or, you could buy a more expensive WiFi version of the adapter.
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Mar 21, 2018 13:55
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Geoj posted:If the filament has catastrophically failed and fell off, yes, but I've seen plenty of bulbs that I would have sworn were fine from a visual check that were actually burned out. That's a really good idea and I feel dumb for not thinking of that, thank you I'll give it a go tonight.
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Mar 21, 2018 15:26
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Red_Fred posted:Is there a recommendation for an iOS app to connect to my cheap OBD2 adapter? I don’t mind paying. Dashcommand. You got the wifi OBD2 dongle, not bluetooth, right? EightBit posted:more expensive WiFi version I think my wifi version was $2 more than the BT I bought before I knew it mattered.
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Mar 21, 2018 16:26
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Can I buy a car on Craigslist that has unsafe brakes and have AAA pick it up?
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Mar 21, 2018 17:45
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As long as you're there in person. It's supposed to have license plates too, some tow drivers don't care.
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Mar 21, 2018 18:25
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We have had my wife's uncles 1985 Monte Carlo in our garage for like 3 years....well he just died and we don't have a clue where he put the key. Right now its in park but I need to get it into neutral to roll it out of the garage so her parents can come get it towed. Any ideas? I don't know much about cars and google has been zero help and I would love my garage back  Its also an automatic if that helps
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Mar 21, 2018 18:34
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Godholio posted:Dashcommand. Yeah it’s a wifi one. Dashcommand is worth the $15? I tried Auto Doctor as it was free but couldn’t get it to connect for some reason.
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Mar 21, 2018 18:38
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The Spookmaster posted:We have had my wife's uncles 1985 Monte Carlo in our garage for like 3 years....well he just died and we don't have a clue where he put the key. Right now its in park but I need to get it into neutral to roll it out of the garage so her parents can come get it towed. Any ideas? I don't know much about cars and google has been zero help and I would love my garage back If all else fails, you should be able to contact a dealer and get a new key based on the VIN. It may take a week or two and cost a couple hundred bucks. A locksmith should be able to pick the ignition switch. There are also options that involve hammers and screwdrivers.
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Mar 21, 2018 18:41
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How deep in the garage is it (i.e. can the tow driver get to it at all where it's at), and is it being towed because it's getting repaired, or because it's being donated? A set of dollies under the rear wheels would let you roll it out, and the tow driver probably has these anyway. Or they can just drag it if there's no fucks to give about the car. If you don't want to drag the car but don't want to pay to get a key remade, you can probably disconnect the shift linkage from under the car and put the car in neutral that way. Or you could pull the driveshaft, but you'll lose fluid out of the rear of the transmission. These also assume you aren't concerned about the steering being locked.
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Mar 21, 2018 18:49
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The Spookmaster posted:I don't know much about cars IOwnCalculus posted:you can probably disconnect the shift linkage from under the car and put the car in neutral that way. Or you could pull the driveshaft, but you'll lose fluid out of the rear of the transmission. These also assume you aren't concerned about the steering being locked. I like where this is going.
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Mar 21, 2018 18:59
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Deteriorata posted:If all else fails, you should be able to contact a dealer and get a new key based on the VIN. It may take a week or two and cost a couple hundred bucks. I just had keys cut from VIN for a pre chip Toyota and the dealer charged like ten bucks or something and it took an hour
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Mar 21, 2018 19:19
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