|
Fish oil has been clearly demonstrated to have anti inflammatory properties and help with lipid profiles. Whether that benefit is clinical significant to your sore fingers is going to vary between individuals.
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2018 18:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 14:09 |
|
|
Two year project is finished. Finally finished resonated in Eldo. Used the original compression beta. Powerful and cruxy. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2018 20:53
|
|
|
ManMythLegend posted:Similar to this post but (anecdotally for sure) back when I was lifting regularly, and now that I'm climbing regularly, I've found that taking fish oil and turmeric daily has kept a lot of joint pain at bay. how much fish oil do you take daily for this to have an obvious effect
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2018 21:32
|
|
|
Verviticus posted:how much fish oil do you take daily for this to have an obvious effect 3 pills twice a day is a pretty common dosage for weight lifters. That's typically twice what the bottle suggests.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2018 21:46
|
|
|
gamera009 posted:Two year project is finished. Finally finished resonated in Eldo. Used the original compression beta.  Nice work!
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2018 22:06
|
|
|
Verviticus posted:how much fish oil do you take daily for this to have an obvious effect Right now I'm taking 1 twice a day. I'm phone posting right now so I don't remember the dosage off the top of my head. E: Mine's 1200mg per capsule. ManMythLegend fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Mar 24, 2018 |
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2018 23:07
|
|
|
gamera009 posted:Two year project is finished. Finally finished resonated in Eldo. Used the original compression beta. Nice!!
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2018 02:56
|
|
|
gamera009 posted:Two year project is finished. Finally finished resonated in Eldo. Used the original compression beta. Fuckin' sick.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2018 07:46
|
|
|
Jim Carey free solos and feeds a baby bird mid climb in Ace Ventura 2. He also kept a monkey in his chalk bag. I don't think anyone can ever top a feat... Edit: goddamn this movie is racist as gently caress Hot Diggity! fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Mar 28, 2018 |
|
#
?
Mar 28, 2018 01:30
|
|
|
22 year old woman from Chicago died trad climbing at Devil's Lake.
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2018 16:53
|
|
|
Hot Diggity! posted:22 year old woman from Chicago died trad climbing at Devil's Lake. I've only top roped at the lake, I have a trip planned for mid April and was thinking about trying to lead a few of the easier routes. News like that is a reminder of how sharp the sharp end is at the lake. The ground is always close and the pro can be if at best. We'll see where my head is at when I get there.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2018 17:45
|
|
|
gamera009 posted:Two year project is finished. Finally finished resonated in Eldo. Used the original compression beta. I really envy people who can do bouldering well, especially outdoors. I'm having trouble getting beyond V3 indoors (problems: not climbing often enough, bouldering even less often, being relatively new to climbing and being an old), let alone doing insane V8+ outdoor stuff over a river bed. And gearing up for this season: I've said it before, but I'm looking to start to learn trad leading. Plan is to practice gear placement on top rope on a variety of easy routes (say, 5.4 or less) before trying to lead them. Will stick to single-pitch routes for now, probably shortish ones, and on passive gear only--I don't have cam money yet. I may go a little harder if I and my partners feel confident enough in my placement skills, but we'll see. And yes, I do have trad-leading partners who will be guiding me. Other than that, I'm looking to improve my sport skills: I have my eyes on a few 5.10c/d and 5.11a+ routes I'd like to be able to get cleanly. Also need to work on lead belay skills. Quick question: do I only need to worry about color-coordinating gear with carabiners when I start getting into cams? My chocks are wired, and everyone I've seen using them rack them all together on one or two larger 'biners. I do have hexes on slings instead of wire, but those are long-ish and already coordinate with the pieces.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2018 01:24
|
|
|
I use my girls nail polish to mark my gear. It's tight.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2018 17:32
|
|
|
Meaty Ore posted:Quick question: do I only need to worry about color-coordinating gear with carabiners when I start getting into cams? My chocks are wired, and everyone I've seen using them rack them all together on one or two larger 'biners. I do have hexes on slings instead of wire, but those are long-ish and already coordinate with the pieces. Your gear should be colour coordinated with your rope, clothes, helmet and chalk bag. Consider the rock type very carefully as well, contrast is essential. Your partner should dress appropriately too. When you're pulling through that crux move in front of the dangling photographers you don't want to be worrying about how your idiot belayer wore a jumper that blends into the rock, and now your magazine cover photos are going to be ruined by the seemingly body-less head and hands floating in the background. You'll get into the habit of racking everything in the same place so you can select gear without looking. I have small wires on the left and big (wider than my thumb) on the right. Distinctive biners on cams are helpful when you take a quick glance down to make sure you've got your hand on the right one. Kudos for the hexes.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2018 17:29
|
|
|
For racking gear, use ovals for sets of nuts. Some ovals are "smoother" on the inside than others. By this I mean that on bad ovals the wires will get hung up on a lip by the gate which is annoying if you're flipping through nuts because the first one you tried didn't fit right. (This is why nuts all get racked together. It's much easier to get a good fit if you have the whole set in your hand, just don't drop it.) For cams, yeah it's pretty standard to match the biner color to the cam color, and it will help you in your first few months/years leading because you'll be able to look down at the gear loop and grab the cam you want. I also suggest that when you build a set of alpine draws you use biners that are a different color than any of your gear biners. Generally you'll rack them all at the back, so it's not a huge deal, but I find it's handy anyway. Mine are all raw aluminum for example, whereas none of my cam biners are. Also, if you don't already have one, buy the wild country nut tool with the integrated leash. It's more expensive than the others but it's well worth it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2018 17:38
|
|
|
For nuts you just need to make sure you have a key lock biner. Otherwise you will hate life getting them off.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2018 18:19
|
|
|
spwrozek posted:For nuts you just need to make sure you have a key lock biner. Otherwise you will hate life getting them off. Agreed, and to be clear I'm not talking about the notch from a traditional wire gate being the hangup point. Some keynose oval biners have a gate that doesn't sit flush on the inside of the oval. It's kind of hard to explain but I can probably take some pictures later when I am home. Basically don't buy wiregate carabiners for anything if you can avoid it unless they have some mechanism to span the notch like Wild Country Helium or Black Diamond HoodWire biners.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2018 18:37
|
|
|
Is anyone here based out of the Midwest (specifically Wisconsin/Illinois/Michigan) who could tell me whether climbing there is as dire as it seems? I'm moving back that way after picking up climbing in Colorado, and a cursory look isn't making me feel confident about the presence of quality sport routes or halfway decent gyms.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2018 17:45
|
|
|
Baronash posted:Is anyone here based out of the Midwest (specifically Wisconsin/Illinois/Michigan) who could tell me whether climbing there is as dire as it seems? I'm moving back that way after picking up climbing in Colorado, and a cursory look isn't making me feel confident about the presence of quality sport routes or halfway decent gyms. I'm based in Chicago. There are now plenty of quality gyms here with more slated to open in the next year or so. If you come to Chicago, I'd recommend the First Ascent group of gyms. If you're ending up in southeast Michigan, Planet Rock is pretty solid. I've only been to the Ann Arbor location. It is one of the older gyms but I've always enjoyed going. For outdoor climbing, there are a few options. You will not have access to climbing like you do in Colorado. Most Chicago climbers I know that actually going climbing outdoors end up driving down the Kentucky and going to the Red River Gorge. You can squeeze in a day and a half of climbing in a weekend. This is where I've done most of my climbing. RRG is about 7 hours from Chicago. Jackson Falls is in Southern Illinois. I've only been there once but I'd like to go there more. People that like it really enjoy it. Unfortunately, it a bit less 6 hours from Chicago. This is pretty much why I usually take on the extra hour and just go to the RRG. A new place opened up near St. Louis. I haven't checked it out yet. In Wisconsin, you have Devils Lake, Necedah and Hillbilly Hollow (there may be more, this is what I hear people talking about). There are bouldering options as well. I'm not as familiar with them.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2018 18:11
|
|
|
There's also some outdoor climbing in Michigan, almost all of it in the Upper Peninsula, and there's ice climbing there as well, if you're into that sort of thing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2018 04:31
|
|
|
There had to be a climbing thread here, so glad to stumble across it. Have been bouldering weekly indoors since June 2017, following a 2 year break. Before that was on and off for 2 years but never advancing beyond v2 back then. I think I've reached v2-3 now and have begun a six week improvers course offered by my centre to get on to their v3-5 routes. What I find impeding my progress right now is, in some semblance of declining importance: - The fear of falling/slipping/injury/dying - Weak pinching / crimping strength - Skin on fingers and palms becoming sore rather quickly on rougher holds and jugs (I've bought a beastmaker filing board for my calluses, a Climb On bar, and I regularly use an e45 moisturiser) - Inflexible quads/hams (specifically when trying to hook, it's hard to keep my knee straight when raising my leg up to waist height or higher) I might be misremembering but I think when I started in 2013, my wall advised newbies to stay out of the training area (circuit board, 50 degree training board, beastmaker fingerboards and other campus boards) for at least the first three months. Now, the advice is to avoid for the first two years, which is something I hear repeated at other walls too. I would go climbing twice weekly if time allowed but at the moment I'm restricted to once weekly so I focus on training core two days a week mid-week. Are there any other keyboard warriors here (aka office workers) who've found repetitive strain injuries in mouse hands/wrists/forearms becoming worse through fingerboarding? I may give those a rest for a year now and just do more climbing instead. jet_dee fucked around with this message at 12:12 on Apr 7, 2018 |
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2018 12:08
|
|
|
London climbers: anyone been to the new Vauxwall yet? What's it like?
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2018 15:27
|
|
|
jet_dee posted:There had to be a climbing thread here, so glad to stumble across it. Everyonr should figure out their own body, but most people I know don't use moisturizer unless climbing outside consecutively, and then only rhyno restore. Heel hooking is really about body positioning, it takes a while to figure out. Toe hooking is the same way, but involves more core usually. I would say try to find an overhung section of wall and try those things on yhr biggest jugs you can find, and repeat on progressively smaller holds to train yourself into holding them. Hang boarding has its place. If you could climb more, I think not training at this point would be good advice. But since you are only climbing once a week, I think incorporating a day of hangboarding would be a good supplement. Broadly saying someone shod wait -arbitrary time frame- to do it is just stupid
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2018 16:27
|
|
|
I usually moisturise like it's going out of fashion, but only as I have super-dry skin on the back of my hands which gets problematic in winter, and I've begun suffering from a form of eczema since I got back into bouldering. Never before or during climbing though. Those holds are greasy enough with other climbers' sweat as is. I normally don't even need to chalk during an entire session, my hands don't tend to sweat during the session unless it's super duper hot in the centre.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2018 17:12
|
|
|
jet_dee posted:There had to be a climbing thread here, so glad to stumble across it. Don't hangboard and try to climb more. All of your issues can be solved through climbing more, especially the fear of falling. Get half way up the wall and bail a few times deliberately. Then do that a bit higher up.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2018 17:24
|
|
|
Thanks; annoyingly I landed in a way that sprained my ankle a month or two ago (I didn't notice anything was wrong until six hours later, when it became progressively more uncomfortable and then painful to put pressure on), and since then I've been even MORE wary of falling. Every single controlled or uncontrolled jump/fall leaves me wondering if I've gone and sprained it again. Not once has it happened again by the way...
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2018 18:49
|
|
|
jet_dee posted:Thanks; annoyingly I landed in a way that sprained my ankle a month or two ago (I didn't notice anything was wrong until six hours later, when it became progressively more uncomfortable and then painful to put pressure on), and since then I've been even MORE wary of falling. Every single controlled or uncontrolled jump/fall leaves me wondering if I've gone and sprained it again. Stop bouldering and get on the ropes. Much less scary when you fall.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2018 21:50
|
|
|
jet_dee posted:Are there any other keyboard warriors here (aka office workers) who've found repetitive strain injuries in mouse hands/wrists/forearms becoming worse through fingerboarding? I may give those a rest for a year now and just do more climbing instead. I bash away at a keyboard and mouse all day everyday and before climbing I had discomfort and as a result I've tried out quite a few keyboards and mice over the years. I'd highly recommend trying out different keyboards and mice. A couple years ago I switched to a vertical mouse and I'd highly recommend it. I've recommended vertical mice to a few other programmers I know and they've enjoyed the switch. I've been climbing and hangboarding for a while and haven't noticed any increase in the same problems I had before.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2018 21:09
|
|
|
A vertical mouse is a big improvement for me too, much less strain on the forearm than from a regular one.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2018 10:56
|
|
|
Riding a motorcycle to the gym as a newbie or: how I learned to love clutchless shifting 
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2018 23:30
|
|
|
Tactical Lesbian posted:Riding a motorcycle to the gym as a newbie or: how I learned to love clutchless shifting I've taken the bike to the gym many times, but never as a newbie. I can only imagine how that must have been getting back home!
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2018 02:26
|
|
|
armorer posted:I've taken the bike to the gym many times, but never as a newbie. I can only imagine how that must have been getting back home! I basically just like, pointed my fingers down and pulled my arm straight back instead of trying to grip lmao
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2018 04:19
|
|
|
I'll trade you that for my commute which involved pouring warm water over my bicycle multiple times to remove it from the block of ice that had frozen around it and then riding into winds gusting at ~75 KPH with ice pellets barraging my face. In the middle of April.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2018 05:26
|
|
|
Kasumeat posted:I'll trade you that for my commute which involved pouring warm water over my bicycle multiple times to remove it from the block of ice that had frozen around it and then riding into winds gusting at ~75 KPH with ice pellets barraging my face. In the middle of April. Sounds fun, ngl. Also raindrops at 80mph feel like airsoft pellets on bare skin!
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2018 06:54
|
|
|
Tactical Lesbian posted:I basically just like, pointed my fingers down and pulled my arm straight back instead of trying to grip lmao And I bet you left it in neutral at every light too.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2018 13:51
|
|
|
armorer posted:And I bet you left it in neutral at every light too. An easy bet right there -- you're absolutely right. So as a newbie, under 1 month of climbing, is there anything wrong with just climbing like every day? Like 30-60 minutes over lunch time, and ~3 hours a day on weekends? Am I going too hard right out of the gate?
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2018 18:08
|
|
|
Tactical Lesbian posted:An easy bet right there -- you're absolutely right. Training makes you weak. You get stronger when you rest. Also, you're definitely going to blow a pulley tendon, and then you'll be out of the game for months. I'd suggest 2x a week for the first 2-3 months, and see how your body feels. Ramp up to 3x after that.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2018 18:32
|
|
|
I always got tennis elbow whenever I'd climb daily after a long break.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2018 18:52
|
|
|
interrodactyl posted:Training makes you weak. You get stronger when you rest. Alright, thanks! I went for lunch today because I was excited to try an autobelay, but I'll rest until like Friday. Any opinions on massage therapy for making recovery time shorter? I definitely prefer a human belayer in terms of comfort, but the autobelay kind of encourages me to climb back down instead of just being lowered.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2018 20:55
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 14:09 |
|
|
Tactical Lesbian posted:An easy bet right there -- you're absolutely right. Every day is too much -- your body needs rest to get stronger and repair damage to muscles and tendons. Every individual is different, but for most people who are in decent shape, I would think you could get away with doing 3-4 short/low-intensity sessions over lunch and 1 longer weekend session (e.g. climb M-Tue, rest W, climb Thu-F, rest Sat, long climb Sun) but even this is probably pushing it and you'd be better off erring on the side of doing less
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2018 20:59
|
|
