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Maybe your local rental place has one of these  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMgQtFrQiGo
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May 10, 2018 16:58
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the comedy option is to simply ignore it. it's not, technically, obstructing the trail, depending on your views of russian rouletteskipdogg posted:Maybe your local rental place has one of these If only
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May 10, 2018 17:01
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Tim Raines IRL posted:the comedy option is to simply ignore it. it's not, technically, obstructing the trail, depending on your views of russian roulette I'd do that for 50-100 too. It's not that technical you just need more experience. And I think it's really cool that you aren't doing it yourself. A big part of falling trees is knowing when you're uncomfortable and then not acting on it. I've turned down a Lot of trees over my lifetime. No big deal. It's good to be able to walk away There's a real salty guy I live near that I'm going to go hiking with and help him find his old growth stumps he cut down 40 years ago, he said he knows his because he was the only one cutting Humboldt. I'm excited, I learn a ton from him
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May 10, 2018 17:44
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With the broken end being 9' in the air, I would be fairly reluctant to get onto it and try to cut it. It doesn't look very stable or that its attached by very much (if anything at all). My attempt would be to try and limb as much as possible from the end thats on the ground (top of the tree). If you can, start cutting small sections off the top one at a time to see how short you can get it without causing it to move. I would cut off the jagged edge poking out of the bottom of the upper broken piece just to create one less thing to get you. Then I might try to determine lean of the trunk with the piece on top. It seems like it might be leaning towards the photo so the whole thing would fall sideways. Ratchet strap around the top section pulling it towards the camera. Notch the front cut on the fall side towards the camera, then notch the back cut. Maybe possibly putting wedges in there to do it slowly. Just my guess. https://www.treeservicesmagazine.com/columns/tools-techniques/understanding-the-hazards-of-felling-storm-damaged-trees/ That could get hosed so many ways though. If you feel even remotely uneasy about it, I would just pay someone (a licensed professional) the $100 to do it for you, especially if you don't have a whole lot of tree/saw experience. $100 is like 1/5 of most people's emergency deductibles so consider it preventative care and money well spent. Or just go 100% full hillbilly and get a rifle and some tannerite.
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May 10, 2018 18:20
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For $100, having another dude deal with that is an absolute no brainer.
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May 10, 2018 18:41
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Pretty sure the $100 offer was someone without insurance. Someone else just looked at it and said they weren't sure if they could do it -- and also doesn't have insurance. Someone who DOES carry insurance (through their friend's LLC, which sounds slightly suspect to me, but I am out in the woods here so some of that is to be expected) is going to look at it next week when they are here doing some other work. They are the owner/operator of a large-scale sugaring operation (staff, ~20,000 taps) and it sounds like they do most of the logging for that. If they decide it's too sketchy for them then I'm probably looking at some dumb amount of money for a fulltime lumberjack dude, which is definitely going to cost a pile, but if that's what it is, fine, this is my first year trying to maintain this property and I am looking to not die in the process. I'm kind of an rear end in a top hat to live with, but I think my wife would miss me and also spend the next 30 years telling kiddo about how daddy was too stupid to pay ~X hundred dollars to not die. In other tool news, stuff I still need for this spring: * a trailer that a forester can pull which can move a small to midsize ATV * a small to midsize ATV * an ATV trailer * a lawnmower I've never dealt with trailers before so I'm still figuring that out; I can pull 1500 lbs on my vehicle per the manual (factory 1.25" hitch receptacle), but only 1000 without trailer brakes. Looking like I'll probably have to figure out trailer brakes, unless I can find a trailer on the lighter side. Once I have a trailer I will just start checking out ATVs from local forums; I've bought (and to some extent maintained) cars and motorcycles that way so I think I know what I'm in for, but if there are any special tips around ATVs that'd be good to know. In the early '00s, I flipped an ATV onto its side in a snowbank, so part of me wants something with a rollbar but they are all much more expensive and I also don't know how useful they are. Bars with some kind of enclosure seem more useful in the woods, but that's a lot more than I want to spend so I think I might just skip the bars and go really slow / watch out on steep grades. Cabbages and Kings fucked around with this message at 20:17 on May 10, 2018 |
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May 10, 2018 20:01
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Verman posted:Or just go 100% full hillbilly and get a rifle and some tannerite. This was going to be my suggestion.
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May 10, 2018 21:50
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Verman posted:Or just go 100% full hillbilly and get a rifle and some tannerite. That would cost an arm and a leg. 
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May 10, 2018 22:22
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Learn to use explosives, get a permit to use explosives, use explosives. Real lumberjacks use explosives on dangerous trees all the time.
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May 11, 2018 00:16
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Tannerite hadn't occurred to me; quartersticks had, but not seriously. Many years ago, with goons (of course) I shot at propane tanks that had been duct taped to lit road flares; I'd say that part of my life is well, well behind me. Hilariously, it turns out that the random text message offering to do this for "probably $50 to $100" is from the guy who plows our driveway and I didn't realize it. He's fully insured and operates his own logging company, so he probably knows what he's talking about, and has been super dependable and responsible for plowing/firewood, so hopefully problem solved. If he's able to do it I will try to get a video, ought to make some pretty good cracking and crashing no matter how he decides to do it.
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May 11, 2018 15:25
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Please do I keep feel like I'm missing something with it.. it looks like you'd just cut off the hanging piece above your head wherever you can reach it and then throw a face cut in it and cut it normally. Maybe even skip cutting the hanging piece, its not going to hit you. Plenty of escape routes, easy stuff
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May 11, 2018 17:43
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Super noob question: is there a reason you couldn't just attach a line at the split and one to another tree a good distance away and winch it? Then at least it would be on the ground to cut up?
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May 11, 2018 23:29
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I'd love to get some nailgun recommendations from y'all. I'm UK based. I have about 250m of larch cladding to fit. It will probably be a hidden nail version. It's my understanding that these should be fitted with austenitic stainless steel ring-shank nails at least 2" long, and since it's siberian larch they recommend predrilling. First question; if I'm going to be predrilling anyway, is there much benefit to buying a nailgun, or should I just use a normal hammer or fix them with screws? (I have an impact driver already). If it is worth it then I may as well also do my own skirting and architraves with it, which I believe should be done with brads? If so then either the nail gun would need to take both, or I'd need to buy different nailers.
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May 12, 2018 13:59
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I have an old Rockwell/Delta table saw that has the super lovely original fence which attaches via a round tube on the front and back of the saw. I want to upgrade to a more modern fence, and in fact have bought one but I just realized after taking off the old fence that the edge of the cast iron top is pretty rough and uneven. What's my best bet for getting the new rail attached evenly? Just be really careful and use shims? Or should I try to grind down or build up the edge of the table somehow?
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May 12, 2018 15:48
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Jaded Burnout posted:I have about 250m of larch cladding to fit. It will probably be a hidden nail version. It's my understanding that these should be fitted with austenitic stainless steel ring-shank nails at least 2" long, and since it's siberian larch they recommend predrilling. If you're looking at predrilling, then I'd suggest seeing if you can get away with using self-tapping screws (like spax star-drive, say). It's the same amount of work as drilling a pilot hole but does the attaching as well. There's two main problems I'd see with trying to combo a nailgun with pilot holes. The first is simply that you can easily miss the hole, though practice should fix that problem. The second is that there'll be less resistance for the nail so you might overdrive it. Your nailgun should have an adjustable depth setting; you'll need to fiddle with that to get it to the correct depth. Or you could just drive the nails by hand. Nailguns remove tedium; they don't do anything that you couldn't fairly easily do by hand. I would not expect a nailgun to be able to fire both construction-sized nails and brads.
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May 12, 2018 16:59
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Squibbles posted:I have an old Rockwell/Delta table saw that has the super lovely original fence which attaches via a round tube on the front and back of the saw. I want to upgrade to a more modern fence, and in fact have bought one but I just realized after taking off the old fence that the edge of the cast iron top is pretty rough and uneven. What's my best bet for getting the new rail attached evenly? Just be really careful and use shims? Or should I try to grind down or build up the edge of the table somehow? Iirc, those originals had spacers between the tube fence and the saw top. What do the new rails use?
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May 12, 2018 19:06
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'd love to get some nailgun recommendations from y'all. I'm UK based. Whilst you can fire 2"+ ring shank nails with a gun you're looking at a £500+ gun and gas and batteries before you even buy the nails. Screws should be fine I think, not from experience of Larch cladding however. I'd get an autofeed screw gun and a battery drill and dual-wield those bad boys. A brad nailer is a different beast, albeit a smaller easier one. Ave reviewed the ryobi 18 gauge one and thought it perfectly adequate.
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May 12, 2018 22:03
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cakesmith handyman posted:Whilst you can fire 2"+ ring shank nails with a gun you're looking at a £500+ gun and gas and batteries before you even buy the nails. Screws should be fine I think, not from experience of Larch cladding however. I'd get an autofeed screw gun and a battery drill and dual-wield those bad boys. I think it's a both or neither situation, really. Having skirting/architraves done is reasonably high skill but commoditised, so if I don't have another reason to buy the kit I'll hire someone. What negative experience have you had with the larch? The spax screws I've been looking at state no predrill needed except for "very hard woods", though it doesn't specify what "very hard" means. Various charts seem to put siberian larch somewhere in the middle.
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May 12, 2018 22:09
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I worded that badly, I've no experience with larch.
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May 12, 2018 22:15
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Mr. Mambold posted:Iirc, those originals had spacers between the tube fence and the saw top. What do the new rails use? New fences are generally just a piece of angle iron that you screw to the edge of the table. Then you bolt a piece of tube stock to it that the fence clamps onto.
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May 13, 2018 00:03
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Squibbles posted:New fences are generally just a piece of angle iron that you screw to the edge of the table. Then you bolt a piece of tube stock to it that the fence clamps onto. Right, that's similar to what the saw I've got now has. I think I've actually got a Biesmeyer prototype on mine before he went big. Are the segments on yours offset or something? I recall solid steel inner with some semi-flimsy wings screwed (I believe) to that on my departed Delta. I don't see why you couldn't use thin washers to shim if that's what you have to resort to.
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May 13, 2018 01:07
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'd love to get some nailgun recommendations from y'all. I'm UK based. Idk who uses a nailgun to try to hit a pre-drilled hole- that defeats the purpose. 250 meters is a brutal lot of pre-drilling/handnailing. I'd hope you could buy an air-driven framing nailer there for ~ 100 or less. You certainly can in the States. You'll need a compressor and hose, and galvanized nails, and off you go. I'd imagine you can get a pancake compressor there too for about the same price. Unless larch is unreasonably brittle and prone to splitting, that thing will punch through your cladding no problem.
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May 13, 2018 01:11
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Mr. Mambold posted:Right, that's similar to what the saw I've got now has. I think I've actually got a Biesmeyer prototype on mine before he went big. Are the segments on yours offset or something? I recall solid steel inner with some semi-flimsy wings screwed (I believe) to that on my departed Delta. I don't see why you couldn't use thin washers to shim if that's what you have to resort to. Yeah I could offset with washers if I reused the existing holes. I'd have to drill through the angle iron instead of using the pre drilled holes though. I thought for this kind of retrofit people usually drill and tap new holes in the saw table to align with the holes on the new fence rail. My concern is drilling holes and keeping them square might be a bit of a pain since the surface is rather uneven then I'll have to shim on top of that. Maybe I can make some flat spots with JB weld or something?
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May 13, 2018 01:38
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Squibbles posted:Yeah I could offset with washers if I reused the existing holes. I'd have to drill through the angle iron instead of using the pre drilled holes though. I thought for this kind of retrofit people usually drill and tap new holes in the saw table to align with the holes on the new fence rail. My concern is drilling holes and keeping them square might be a bit of a pain since the surface is rather uneven then I'll have to shim on top of that. Maybe I can make some flat spots with JB weld or something? Sounds reasonable enough. I take it you don't have access to a drill press, or the fence would be too unwieldy on one.
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May 13, 2018 01:50
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Mr. Mambold posted:Sounds reasonable enough. I take it you don't have access to a drill press, or the fence would be too unwieldy on one. Yeah I do have a drill press. I'll see if maybe I could reuse the screws from the original fence
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May 13, 2018 03:34
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Super noob question: is there a reason you couldn't just attach a line at the split and one to another tree a good distance away and winch it? Then at least it would be on the ground to cut up? I did this with chain and a 2-ton winch. It didn't budge under significant tension and obviously I don't want to have the winch cable snap in my hands and kill me. The larger limbs are tangled in the limbs of the other trees it brought down. Looks like my firewood/plow guy is coming Monday to hopefully just fell it.
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May 13, 2018 13:44
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Take a video, we'd like to see how he did it!
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May 13, 2018 13:59
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I just bought some spax screws. Torx head, A2 steel, fully threaded, countersunk. Just tried them out for the first time. They are fantastic. Never going back to philips, pozi or slot.
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May 13, 2018 14:00
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Torx are the best.
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May 13, 2018 16:28
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cakesmith handyman posted:Torx are the best.
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May 13, 2018 17:21
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Steakandchips posted:I just bought some spax screws. Torx head, A2 steel, fully threaded, countersunk. Just tried them out for the first time. Torx are basically magical screws. A Phillips would need most of my 90kg of assfat leaning on the driver to sink, a torx would work with the weight of the screw gun and my arm.
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May 13, 2018 20:55
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Robertson bitches. Fight me.
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May 13, 2018 22:23
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wesleywillis posted:Robertson bitches. Fight me. I'm not going to fight you for being wrong
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May 13, 2018 22:54
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wesleywillis posted:Robertson bitches. Fight me. Some of us don't live in Canada, unfortunately. wikipedia posted:Robertson had licensed the screw design to a maker in England, but the party that he was dealing with intentionally drove the licensee company into bankruptcy and purchased the rights at a reduced price from the trustee, thus circumventing the original agreement.[citation needed] Robertson spent a small fortune buying back the rights, and subsequently refused to allow anyone else to make the screws under license. When Henry Ford tried out the Robertson screws, he found that they saved considerable time in Model T production, but when Robertson refused to license the screw design, Ford realized that the supply of screws would not be guaranteed and chose to limit their use in production to Ford's Canadian division.[36][37][38] Robertson's refusal to license his screws prevented their widespread adoption in the United States, where the more widely-licensed Phillips head gained wider acceptance.
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May 13, 2018 23:52
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Great success, unfortunately I didn't get a video. But, yeah, was just a matter of a 20 inch husqvarna plus 20 years of experience, one hour, done. He delimbed the fallen side, sectioned it until the large piece would fall, then sectioned that, "easy". He also told me that there are "family forestry" classes right down the road, if I want to learn how to fell some of our (smaller) trees. He did not sound surprised that a couple people had looked at this one and been uncertain about it, because of size and sketchiness, but he didn't have any trouble. Now I just need to buy a Gator or something so I can get all this wood out of the forest. The list of things I "need" right now is bottomless :-/
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May 14, 2018 14:50
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Tim Raines IRL posted:Great success, unfortunately I didn't get a video. But, yeah, was just a matter of a 20 inch husqvarna plus 20 years of experience, one hour, done. He delimbed the fallen side, sectioned it until the large piece would fall, then sectioned that, "easy". Yea I didn't think it looked that difficult. When you take that class you'll learn all about bindings and how to deal with hanging up trees and look back and think, wow now I can do that safely and save little cash next time
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May 14, 2018 16:13
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Tim Raines IRL posted:I did this with chain and a 2-ton winch. It didn't budge under significant tension and obviously I don't want to have the winch cable snap in my hands and kill me. The larger limbs are tangled in the limbs of the other trees it brought down. Looks like my firewood/plow guy is coming Monday to hopefully just fell it. Ah word. I figured the simplest answer (the tree is too heavy to move with a winch) would be the correct one. Thanks!
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May 15, 2018 01:10
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Suprisingly the new brushless ryobi circular saw is much better than the one that I got 10 years ago. And they’ve finally got 6ah batteries for sale at Home Depot. Just a heads up.
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May 15, 2018 01:33
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I just purchased a moped, and with that comes lots of fiddling. To do it right, I'll need a torque wrench or two...hopefully just one, but it might be hard for a single one to cover the ranges I need. The bolts holding on the clutch case are low torque, only like 6 or 7 ft-lbs, but I know I'll also have to go up to at least 20-30 ft-lbs. to put the clutch itself on, and other parts might need more torque than that, I haven't read through everything yet. I don't see a lot of options in my first couple of searches, most ones that can go low enough to do 6 ft-lbs/72 in-lbs can't go high enough to do 20 ft-lbs, and vice-versa. I'd rather not have to spend $100 on a set of them just to get this otherwise inexpensive moped up and running.
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May 15, 2018 18:59
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| # ? Apr 27, 2024 18:32 |
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DrBouvenstein posted:I just purchased a moped, and with that comes lots of fiddling. To do it right, I'll need a torque wrench or two...hopefully just one, but it might be hard for a single one to cover the ranges I need. Harbor freight ones are decently calibrated and are dirt cheap. Always go there with a 20% off coupon or two, and torque wrenches go on sale a lot for  https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-61277.html https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-61276.html
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May 15, 2018 19:55
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