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Broken axle is my bet.
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May 13, 2018 03:00
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Leal posted:So much for a cheap fix As long as it takes to wear out the third gear synchro in the same way. If you're very gentle this could be a very long time. I would seriously consider a used transmission, especially if you can get a yard pull with at least a passing warranty.
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May 13, 2018 03:06
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nitsuga posted:I could use some armchair diagnostics. This is for a 2009 Honda Fit with a manual transmission. What I'm not getting here is that the car made terrible grinding noises and you decided to keep driving it?
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May 13, 2018 08:12
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I have a Chrysler Voyager III GS (1999), which is a Dodge Caravan rebranded for Europe. Recently, on the first warm day I've shut off the heating, which resulted in a quick overheating and a burst water pipe. I've fixed that and cleaned the cooling system, and found out that the cooling fans aren't turning on. So far what I've managed to do was: - I've found out that there is a PWM relay controlling the fans (it's a no. 04707286AD). This is prone to break, so I've ordered a replacement - At the relay harness I've closed to input and output wires and the fans come on instantly, and by sound they don't seem to be broken or stuck - When the relay arrived, I've replaced it. For one glorious moment turning on the AC has turned the fans on fine when testing. It felt great. - They have not turned on again since. - By pulling the battery for ten minutes I've tried to reset the PCM, because some people wrote that maybe it wasn't sending a signal since it was aware of the bad relay. - Used an OBD reader to check for error codes, found nothing. These relays are pretty expensive and I'd rather not order another one until it's necessary. Does anyone know if I can test if there is a signal coming from the PCM? I've seen this video which is about the exact same car: , and the guy can see the signal when turning the AC on, but I only have a basic multimeter. I've tried setting it to 20V DC, putting the red pin into the control connection and grounding the black on the car, but have not seen any activity (but I'm only 50% sure this should work).
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May 13, 2018 10:57
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nitsuga posted:Corla, what happened to your Fit? I've had mine for almost 3 years and haven't really had any issues. This would be the first breakdown. Just about everything that could break did. The AC went out, the radiator started leaking, the alternator stopped working, and it would misfire all the time (even with new coils and spark plugs). I honestly think they're just not built to last.
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May 13, 2018 11:50
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Jim DiGriz posted:These relays are pretty expensive and I'd rather not order another one until it's necessary. Does anyone know if I can test if there is a signal coming from the PCM? I've seen this video which is about the exact same car: , and the guy can see the signal when turning the AC on, but I only have a basic multimeter. I've tried setting it to 20V DC, putting the red pin into the control connection and grounding the black on the car, but have not seen any activity (but I'm only 50% sure this should work). Constant 0 V is what you would expect with that arrangement regardless of what the computer is doing. The “smaller green wire” is either grounded or not. If it’s grounded, it should clearly read 0 V because it has a direct electrical connection to ground and there can be no voltage difference between them. The other state the computer can put it in is “not grounded” or “floating”. This is just like opening a switch. The contact is no longer not forced to be at the same potential as ground, but there’s no current to pull it away from ground so it will still read 0 V. What you want to measure is between the positive rail and the control contact. A low‐end digital meter might not respond fast enough to show anything, but even the world’s cheapest analogue meter will. Anything greater than zero is good.
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May 13, 2018 12:31
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Platystemon posted:Constant 0 V is what you would expect with that arrangement regardless of what the computer is doing. Thanks! So if I would connect a 12V LED for example (I'll check around for an analogue meter though) to the signal rail and the rail where the current is coming to the relay, I should be seeing flickering?
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May 13, 2018 12:40
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Jim DiGriz posted:Thanks! So if I would connect a 12V LED for example (I'll check around for an analogue meter though) to the signal rail and the rail where the current is coming to the relay, I should be seeing flickering? Yes. Long lead to positive supply, short lead to signal contact. Use a resistor of an appropriate value.
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May 13, 2018 12:56
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Platystemon posted:Yes. Thank you, time for some learning then.
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May 13, 2018 12:57
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spankmeister posted:What I'm not getting here is that the car made terrible grinding noises and you decided to keep driving it? It was probably 500 feet I drove once the grinding noise started. Getting pulled over and everything. Thanks for the info, Corla. I’ll keep it in mind. I suppose there are other hatchbacks out there. I’ll let you all know what comes of this.
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May 13, 2018 13:45
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Looking for advice on a p0171 code on my 4 cylinder 1998 ford ranger The OBD reader snapshot says at the time the code was thrown it had: LTFT 13%, STFT 3%, RPM 2500 Car takes a lot of cranking to start, and when it starts it idles like poo poo. Once it gets warmed up I can give the throttle about 50% and the car will slowly increase RPMs and after like 5 seconds it will 'wake up' and rev really quickly, like it normally would. At this point it idles a little bit better and I can drive it around. When I can drive it around town at a decent load, it runs alright so it doesn't seem like fuel pressure is a likely issue. Things I've done: Cleaned the maf (it wasn't dirty to begin with). This had no effect Found and repaired a few vacuum leaks. This improved the issue a bit I don't have a smoke machine and I'm wondering in your guys' experience: how likely is it that I have a dying MAF vs some other vacuum leak that I can't find?
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May 13, 2018 17:38
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So I live in the countryside a little bit in the PNW. A few hundred yards of dirt driveway but we don’t get snow plowed when it does occasionally snow. I’ve had a 2016 VW Tiguan AWD and while i do love it it’s also a lease and it’s time is up. Don’t think I want to own a VW so I’m looking at other small SUV. Seems to me I got the choice of a Subaru Crosstrek, Honda HRV or Mazda CX3 for all wheel drive. I was gonna get a manual to keep my hands busy during my commute but the gas savings on the autos seem to be substantially better. If I plan on keeping it for 120k/10 years what would guys suggest. I’ve test driven them all and I miss the HP of the Tiguan but otherwise they all felt sturdy.
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May 13, 2018 18:02
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RE: fan chat if you're at a lack and out of money you can always wire the fan through a fuse to a switch to make it just on/off with no variable speeds
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May 13, 2018 18:20
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Breakfast Feud posted:RE: fan chat Thanks, I'm keeping this as a last resort - heard it's not good for the engine and the fans, but if I can't fix it soon enough, I'll do it. I don't use the car that much, but trips are getting pretty bad with full heating.
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May 13, 2018 18:25
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Jim DiGriz posted:Thanks, I'm keeping this as a last resort - heard it's not good for the engine and the fans, but if I can't fix it soon enough, I'll do it. I don't use the car that much, but trips are getting pretty bad with full heating. This should hopefully be similar since they're both Chrysler products of the same vintage, but if you disconnect the engine coolant temperature sensor, the computer should command full fan speed. It works on my WJ.
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May 13, 2018 19:01
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Probably call your dealership but there's a good chance this is related. When you shut the engine off, does the brake pedal get hard quickly?
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May 13, 2018 20:43
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ROFLburger posted:Looking for advice on a p0171 code on my 4 cylinder 1998 ford ranger It still could be a a fuel pump that is sticking/not working at 100% or a filter, and by revving it or putting load on the engine the computer tells the pump to dump more fuel making it work abeit with less power than normal. But before jumping to that get a vacuum gauge, that will tell you if you have a massive leak. If it is reading particularly low get some carb cleaner and spray around to find the leak, it will rev up since it is running lean. If your vacuum looks normal then it is most likely fuel related. It could also be a bad MAF but I'd check vacuum first. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 03:40 on May 14, 2018 |
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May 14, 2018 01:45
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I'd start with the PCV hose between the block and intake manifold. They like to collapse in on themselves and split as they age.
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May 14, 2018 02:54
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bawfuls posted:~new day new idiot problems on my 1977 Datsun~ I don't understand how I was able to move this one ~3 inches but not a millimeter further.
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May 14, 2018 03:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:This should hopefully be similar since they're both Chrysler products of the same vintage, but if you disconnect the engine coolant temperature sensor, the computer should command full fan speed. It works on my WJ. So this could allow for circumventing the AC for testing? Going to keep it in mind, thanks!
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May 14, 2018 05:52
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bawfuls posted:I spent another hour or so failing with this today. Screwdriver wedge between the washers was not fruitful. I tried a LOT more heat (heated the control arm until the rubber bushing inside caught fire for awhile) but still nothing. I tried cutting through between the washers but it just wore down and bent my sawsall blade. I guess I'll pick up a better blade tomorrow, cause I'm out of ideas at this point. You could try a nut splitter to get the nut off.
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May 14, 2018 07:11
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Jim DiGriz posted:So this could allow for circumventing the AC for testing? Going to keep it in mind, thanks! Yeah - an open circuit temperature sensor should be treated as a combination of "oh poo poo the engine is HOT" and "we don't know how hot it is so CRANK THE FANS ANYWAY".
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May 14, 2018 07:42
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We have a 2013 Chevy Sonic with 68k on it, we are the only owners and got it with 5 miles on it. On Friday I had a recall (16186 for catalytic converter) serviced at a random Chevy dealership near me I have never been to before. On the way home the car overheated (I was stuck in a lot of traffic and ac was on, figured that was it). Let the car cool off, and went home with no problem. Drove it on Saturday about 60 miles no problem. Sunday after driving about 20 miles the check engine came on. Got code print outs at an auto parts store, and they were for the coolant system. Coolant level looks fine, I don't see any coolant leaking anywhere. I noticed the engine fan wasn't running so I checked the fuze diagrams and found a 40a fuze for the engine fan was blown, so I replaced that. Fan is working again, but the engine light is still on. My question is this: any chance the reprogramming for the emissions could have caused any other issues? Should I bother taking it to the Chevy dealership or just go to my local mechanic? Reading online it looks like a replacement of the coolant thermostat housing is what needs to happen. E: there were 4 codes, I only know one right now, but have the others at home - P00B7 The Slack Lagoon fucked around with this message at 17:17 on May 14, 2018 |
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May 14, 2018 17:15
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Is it still under warranty?
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May 14, 2018 18:22
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Geoj posted:Is it still under warranty? I'm actually not sure. It's my wife's car from before we got married. I'll take a look tonight.
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May 14, 2018 18:34
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Do truck ram-air snorkels actually work? Was reading from someone who installed one on his 4runner and noticed a performance boost and slight increase to MPG.
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May 14, 2018 20:49
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supposedly they reduce intake air temperature as a side benefit so maybe it's plausible? but i've seen people report just as often that it doesn't change.
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May 14, 2018 21:20
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Razzled posted:supposedly they reduce intake air temperature as a side benefit so maybe it's plausible? but i've seen people report just as often that it doesn't change. It sounds plausible as well, since cooler air could lead to a slight performance or MPG gain. I tried looking online, and couldnt find anything concrete short of anecdotal evidence. If it actually works, I might install one on my tacoma.
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May 14, 2018 21:24
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Given the vehicles in question, are we talking a big snorkel designed to capture air from up by the top of the roofline? Those are more to avoid water ingestion (and possibly dust ingestion) than they are for performance. I'd expect things to be at best a wash with those given how much length they add to the intake tract.
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May 14, 2018 21:26
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I applied new clear coat to a 2" x 4" area near my vehicle's wheel well about 25 hours ago (over primer and paint that were applied the day before that). I see that rain is coming in about three hours. Will rain damage my new paint job, or am I covered given that the clear coat's been curing for a little over a day? I'm trying to decide if I should apply a makeshift "patch" over the area using plastic from a garbage bag and masking tape. Will contact with the plastic damage the paint job more than the rain? The clear coat can is straight from the dealership and has no instructions or guidance. Any insight would be appreciated.
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May 14, 2018 22:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:Given the vehicles in question, are we talking a big snorkel designed to capture air from up by the top of the roofline? Those are more to avoid water ingestion (and possibly dust ingestion) than they are for performance. I'd expect things to be at best a wash with those given how much length they add to the intake tract. Yes. 4runner/Tacoma cab height snorkels. They're supposedly ram-air intakes, using the forward motion of the vehicle to force air in.
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May 14, 2018 22:32
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Does anyone know anything about JDM engines in California? Ive decided my life is not complete without having a Toyota Cressida with a 1JZGTE engine in it. From what i can tell on the BAR site, id need the USDM ccu and emissions. But I dont think there is a USDM ccu for the 1JZ. Its all very confusing.. at some point if i really get serious about this ill just have to go talk to a BAR ref. But if anyone has some experience with this id love to hear it!
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May 14, 2018 22:49
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Blakkout posted:I applied new clear coat to a 2" x 4" area near my vehicle's wheel well about 25 hours ago (over primer and paint that were applied the day before that). I see that rain is coming in about three hours. Will rain damage my new paint job, or am I covered given that the clear coat's been curing for a little over a day? I'm trying to decide if I should apply a makeshift "patch" over the area using plastic from a garbage bag and masking tape. Will contact with the plastic damage the paint job more than the rain? Assuming it's been warm but not humid you should be fine after 24 hours of cure time.
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May 14, 2018 23:26
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Ram effect is very negligible at road going speeds.
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May 15, 2018 02:26
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I’ve been searching for a square body Chevy/GMC truck as a third vehicle, and I found one. Should I buy this for weekend hauling and as a wrenching toy? https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/d/1979-chevy-k20-4wd-must-sell/6549045488.html Publicdata.com says the current owner bought it a couple years ago for $800. Looks like he’s put some work into it, but I’m not sure it was $3000 worth of work. Anything I should look for, besides the known rust issues on cab corners and floors, wheel wells, and door bottoms? JUST MAKING CHILI fucked around with this message at 06:05 on May 15, 2018 |
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May 15, 2018 05:26
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JUST MAKING CHILI posted:https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/d/1979-chevy-k20-4wd-must-sell/6549045488.html Well I can say that the listing has been up for a month and now he says it needs to go within a week, so certainly don’t just agree to $3800.
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May 15, 2018 06:00
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HELP MY RED CAR SMELLS BAD AND SOUNDS WEIRD 2005 Honda Civic, EX 1.7L My car recently developed some funky noises, highest when engine first boots up and is warming up - sort of a rubbing/squealing/vibrating sort of deal (not really high-pitched, definitely not knock/valves/other engine noise), perhaps some sort of belt or pump. This usually goes away at higher RPMs/speeds, then returns at idle. Some careful looks under the hood provide no obvious answers - I didn't resort to using a stethoscope or anything yet. Cut to today: While driving home, suddenly I started smelling a horrible smell, sorta like burning plastic or something. Definitely not delicious maple syrup coolant smell, though. When I got home a few minutes later, mostly-white smoke was pouring out of my engine bay. Power steering works fine, brakes work fine (seem to be totally good and normal). Upon popping the hood, all fluids (coolant, oil, brakes, p. steering) were in normal range. The wacky fun noises had not gone away (so whatever it is didn't totally die yet, maybe?). The source of the white smoke seemed to be the driver's side of the engine bay, where all the stuff related to brakes is located (but also alternator, PS stuff, belts, etc.). Any thoughts? Likely brakes or PS issue? Failing CMC? Worn PS belt / PS pump? I just sorta wanna know what to expect in the way of repairs... Teketeketeketeke fucked around with this message at 14:53 on May 15, 2018 |
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May 15, 2018 14:48
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How's the serpentine and pulleys? Can you pull the belt off and spin each pulley by hand to see how smooth they turn?
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May 15, 2018 14:58
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Grakkus posted:So I bought a... very dirty car that has been sat outside for a long time. It has the type of fuel filler flap with a lock in it, like this: So it turns out this wasn't a problem with the lock. The inlet to the fuel filler pipe had corroded to the point where the mechanism in the cap wouldn't turn, which is why the key wouldn't turn either. Some simple tools and a bit of brute force freed up the mechanism to the point where it would move again: 
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May 15, 2018 15:50
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It's had some WD40 blasted into it but that didn't help. Is there anything else I can try, or am I going to have to drill it out?