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Jaded Burnout posted:OK so I've just bought 300m of cladding and I'm gonna need to cut it. So, power mitre saw, right? Who told you scarf joint was best? Maybe that's a regional thing?
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May 26, 2018 14:25
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Mr. Mambold posted:Who told you scarf joint was best? Maybe that's a regional thing? The carpenter who runs the cladding company I'm buying from. This is opposed to a butt joint. (you probably know that, just making sure I didn't miscommunicate) Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 14:38 on May 26, 2018 |
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May 26, 2018 14:36
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Jaded Burnout posted:The carpenter who runs the cladding company I'm buying from. Are you calling a 45° miter joint a scarf joint? Because it's not.
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May 26, 2018 15:43
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Let me clarify. The cladding I’m buying is designed to interlock row by row to provide a watertight surface. Since it’s random lengths I asked them what needs to be done when two boards are put end to end, how do I maintain the water tightness. He recommended a scarf joint, which from googling involves putting the boards together via an angled cut rather than normal 90• cuts.
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May 26, 2018 16:01
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Mr. Mambold posted:Are you calling a 45° miter joint a scarf joint? Because it's not. They are talking about where the boards overlap lengthwise. Not a mitered corner but I've seen people flip boards and 45 them. I've done them at 22.5
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May 26, 2018 16:04
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:They are talking about where the boards overlap lengthwise. Not a mitered corner but I've seen people flip boards and 45 them. I've done them at 22.5 Yeah this. Though I didn’t have an angle picked out.
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May 26, 2018 16:08
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The angles usually used for scarf joints are much more than 45 degrees and I think mitre saws are usually used to cut wood laying down flat instead of on edge like a scarf joint would require. Actually if you look up the tips from a shipwright YouTube channel, look through the build videos for his first boat and somewhere in there he describes and shows how to make a scarf joint. The bottom line is that they take a fair bit of work and hand tuning with hand planes usually if you are looking to make it water tight. I'm no carpenter but I thought the way you kept cladding water tight was to overlap each row by about 50% then just make sure the butt joint on any particular row doesn't line up with joint on the row above or below. That way any water going through the butt joint gets blocked by the row below it.
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May 26, 2018 16:13
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Jaded Burnout posted:Yeah this. Though I didn’t have an angle picked out. I understood what you were saying but I'm sure someone is a better resource than me. One thing to be aware of is most miter saws won't cut through a certain size vertically because of the motor housing or whatever so make sure that part of your plan works because you'll never match 2 cuts from either side, if that makes sense
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May 26, 2018 16:16
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Squibbles posted:The angles usually used for scarf joints are much more than 45 degrees and I think mitre saws are usually used to cut wood laying down flat instead of on edge like a scarf joint would require. This Harry Potter on Ice posted:I understood what you were saying but I'm sure someone is a better resource than me. One thing to be aware of is most miter saws won't cut through a certain size vertically because of the motor housing or whatever so make sure that part of your plan works because you'll never match 2 cuts from either side, if that makes sense He should use a compound miter saw, that's practically the only kind made any more. It's a far cry from the 8" Rockwell that I cut my teeth (and my index finger) on.
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May 26, 2018 16:20
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Squibbles posted:I'm no carpenter but I thought the way you kept cladding water tight was to overlap each row by about 50% then just make sure the butt joint on any particular row doesn't line up with joint on the row above or below. That way any water going through the butt joint gets blocked by the row below it. Not that kind of cladding; this profile is flat and interlocks a short way, so there will be a significant amount of face with nothing behind it. A tilting-head mitre saw is how I was expecting to tackle this, but I'm no woodworker either. TBH having these joints water tight is a nice to have, the wall behind is already water tight.
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May 26, 2018 16:26
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Mr. Mambold posted:This Yea you can definitely still get cheap little chop saws I just didn't want them to get the wrong tool. Compound miter saws have come a long way even in the last 5 years looking at tools online now, wow
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May 26, 2018 16:29
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As it happens a friend has offered to lend me her saw so I'll see what it offers and buy my own only if it doesn't do the trick. Regarding scarf joints, this is perhaps better suited for the woodworking thread, but since there's some surprise here that that was the recommendation, would there be an alternative?
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May 26, 2018 16:32
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Jaded Burnout posted:Regarding scarf joints, this is perhaps better suited for the woodworking thread, but since there's some surprise here that that was the recommendation, would there be an alternative? Butt joints. I can't fathom trying to do any kind of complex joinery for that much material. If you want to prevent water from getting behind the cladding (and, waterproof wall behind or not, you should, since water that gets behind the cladding will hasten rotting of the cladding) then you just caulk the joints.
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May 26, 2018 16:47
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I would suggest following the advice you got where you bought it, and use a compound miter saw for the cuts. Should be possible to get a good bit of overlap.
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May 26, 2018 16:49
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Sounds like you were recommended this joint: https://assets.bhg.com/bhg/images/2017/9/1/103137255.jpg Where a scarf joint traditionally has a shallower angle and longer overlap. Also, I've seen zigzags so there are no fragile points. They're redoing the covers over out parking spaces in my complex and the framers are using that 45d joint for the long span and 45d miters at the corners. That's probably what the guy was describing to you and will cover your membrane with wood color and pattern just fine.
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May 26, 2018 17:52
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I mean, the guy said "scarf joint" so I assume he meant the longer version if that's what it is. I think it's moot, since I remembered I'm going to have to butt the boards up to the trim square anyway, so if I'm caulking that I may as well save effort and do the same on the mid-board joins.
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May 26, 2018 17:54
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A few months ago, I bought a Milwaukee m12 rotary tool. The "dremel" basically. This one: https://www.mississaugahardware.com...ASABEgIJy_D_BwE I've had a few problems with the speed control. It won't turn if I've got it on 1, but I can hear the motor wanting to turn. Even if I turn it by hand it won't stay turning. That happened first, and then it happened on setting 2. But with setting 2 it will turn on its own, if I spin the poo poo first. It'll keep moving, and if I turn it up, then down to 2, it stays moving, but if I turn it down to 1 it stops. I figure its probably something to do with the speed control switch, but whatever. I've got to send it back for repair or replacement. In the mean time has anyone else had this problem? Or any other problems with these things?
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May 26, 2018 21:53
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I'm on 11 acres. We have maybe 1/2 acre of actual yard, then a lot of fairly hilly wooded land, which has a number of ATV trails cut through it that I'd like to maintain. All of them are mostly flat with some amount of grade (up to maybe 30-35 degrees, maybe a little more for a couple really extreme but short uphill stretches). We also have a couple horse pastures that have some significant brush encroaching (~1/3" thorn bushes, mostly). Being able to clear that would be nice, but is less essential. I'm going to guess the total area is like 1.5 acres, and maybe more like 2 if we include the brushy pastures. I need a mower of some kind, ASAP. Growing up we always had slightly better than average consumer self-propelled mowers -- the sort of Honda you can get for ~$5-600 now. The two things we're considering are like a higher-end consumer mower (like the aforementioned $600 Honda) -- or, a more expensive Toro floating-deck walk behind deal (something like this, but the ones we looked at in also had a cylindrical thresher thing in the front that is basically a mini-brushhog:  These were ~$1500-2300 at the Toro dealer, depending on engine power, electric vs pull start, etc. My guess is that the honda would do most of what we want, if used carefully, and the other thing would probably do everything and require slightly less caution. But, i don't really know anything at all about these floating deck units; growing up we did everything with a consumer Honda. Just curious if you have any thoughts, since I bet you know a lot more about these machines than I do. I'd rather not spend a ton of money this year, but I also don't want to spend $600 on a mower and then kill it or decide it's not really useful. I can post better pictures of the areas we're trying to clear, if it's helpful, but "muddy paths through the woods with some steep bits" more or less sums it up. I am willing to do a pretty thorough job of walking them and clearing sticks and rocks off before running any machine across them. We did also consider riding mowers, but after talking to the guy at John Deere it sounds like the ~$3K entry-level riding mowers are not really appropriate for trails like this, and I am not going to spend $10,000 on a commercial riding mower. Does anyone have any input? e: should also mention I am super house poor this year, because of some weird things that happened we bought a house a year before we really expected to be ready to do so, and as a result my liquid cash right now is muuuuuch less than I am used to, so budget is very much a factor. On the other hand, I don't want to spend $600 on something that doesn't really do the job. Cabbages and Kings fucked around with this message at 14:50 on May 27, 2018 |
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May 27, 2018 14:47
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I don’t know much about mowers so I won’t comment there, but have you ruled out some very beefy gas powered weed whacker devices? Seems like it might save you some time and money if you’re going to walk the trails anyway, and less prone to taking damage from twigs and rocks.
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May 27, 2018 15:02
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Tim Raines IRL posted:I'm on 11 acres. We have maybe 1/2 acre of actual yard, then a lot of fairly hilly wooded land, which has a number of ATV trails cut through it that I'd like to maintain. All of them are mostly flat with some amount of grade (up to maybe 30-35 degrees, maybe a little more for a couple really extreme but short uphill stretches). We also have a couple horse pastures that have some significant brush encroaching (~1/3" thorn bushes, mostly). Being able to clear that would be nice, but is less essential. I'm going to guess the total area is like 1.5 acres, and maybe more like 2 if we include the brushy pastures. What's the cut width on the Honda? Personally, if I were mowing ~20,000sqft I would want something with a wider cut than even a nice 21" could ever provide. How much time are you willing to spend?
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May 27, 2018 15:06
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Hubis posted:What's the cut width on the Honda? Personally, if I were mowing ~20,000sqft I would want something with a wider cut than even a nice 21" could ever provide. How much time are you willing to spend? This is a concern and year I think the hondas maxed out around 22", whereas the Toro things were 28" - 32" depending on model. That said, if we go the Honda route, we're really just looking at doing the yard, and ignoring the pastures (letting them go wild until we get goats at some point) -- so we'd be looking at a smaller area. Jaded Burnout posted:I don’t know much about mowers so I won’t comment there, but have you ruled out some very beefy gas powered weed whacker devices? Seems like it might save you some time and money if you’re going to walk the trails anyway, and less prone to taking damage from twigs and rocks. I have thought about this; for the moment I've been halfassing it with an electric whacker, but now that things are growing fast it's getting out of hand. Cabbages and Kings fucked around with this message at 15:13 on May 27, 2018 |
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May 27, 2018 15:11
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Take it from Chuck Grassley, sitting US Senator. This is the way to go don't do this
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May 27, 2018 15:29
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Am I understanding right that you want to pushmow your ATV trails plus your yard? Or just the yard/pasture? If its just the yard/pasture I would get the wider walk behind. If you want to do trails also the extra width will probably be ungainly. Also I wouldn't think you should ever mow trails in the woods, weedwacker and hedge trimmer work sounds more appropriate for that. How much grass could a trail in the woods have?
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May 27, 2018 15:59
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tangy yet delightful posted:Am I understanding right that you want to pushmow your ATV trails plus your yard? Or just the yard/pasture? I think this is probably the right answer; we're going to walk the trails again today to see what's grown in the last week before we pull the trigger on something, but my inclination is to get the honda, get a more powerful weedwhacker, and ignore the pastures until we have something we need them for.
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May 27, 2018 16:03
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Since you have atv trails, do you have an atv? They make mowing decks you can tow with an atv, either with its own engine or a hook up for a pto if your atv has one. Sorta like a three point on a tractor but not actually quite the same, if I recall. It’s been a while since I looked at those so I don’t recall the specifics or how much they cost, but it might be worth some time on google.
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May 27, 2018 17:11
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Bad Munki posted:Since you have atv trails, do you have an atv? They make mowing decks you can tow with an atv, either with its own engine or a hook up for a pto if your atv has one. Sorta like a three point on a tractor but not actually quite the same, if I recall. It’s been a while since I looked at those so I don’t recall the specifics or how much they cost, but it might be worth some time on google. This is what I was going to recommend. Look up Swisher brand trail mowers. They make several that tow behind an atv for this exact purpose.
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May 27, 2018 19:28
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Vitamins posted:I’ve got to drill approx 25 holes through a double course of extremely hard engineering brick, and the cheap cordless hammer drill I’ve got is doing it but extremely slowly and keeps overheating. Is it worth getting an SDS+ drill to do this job, and any recommendations? I’m UK based for what it’s worth. So I managed to rent a Makita DHR263 for £25, did the job perfectly with a new Makita drillbit in less than 2 mins total. Compared to the 45 mins it took me to drill 2 holes before with the previous drill.  Harry Potter on Ice posted:You're using a liquid as lube right? Corded would definitely help. RIP that drill The only lubrication I’ve ever seen used for drilling brick is water, and only for a series of hundreds of holes. Water isn’t very practical for use in a furnished home, are there alternatives you’d recommend? Thanks, I’ll look into getting one of these! wesleywillis posted:How old/new is the bit? The bit was brand new, was a mid range one from B&Q but having seen what a decent branded bit can do I won’t be buying those again. echomadman posted:Check your local Aldi and Lidl, they both do SDS hammer drills cheap pretty often which are orders of magnitude better than a cordless hammer drill, but not as good as a red/yellow/teal one Funnily my drill was an Aldi special I bought a few weeks ago. It’s been really good up to this point and tackled all the jobs I’ve thrown it. It was only drilling brick that it stumbled on. Sadly it won’t come out of hammer mode now thanks to me being an idiot and killing the internals, but I’d recommend those drills any day of the week, especially at the price point!
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May 28, 2018 09:36
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Speaking of drills, I can recommend Makita for ease of repair, I had to replace a burnt out motor in one and it was p simple.
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May 28, 2018 09:52
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Is there an equivalency between circular blades of different sizes and their number of teeth? As a blade gets larger you necessarily need more teeth to achieve the same individual tooth size. So if I'm thinking I probably need an 80 tooth blade for a 210mm saw for fine cuts on dense wood (though I could be wrong about that), what sort of tooth count would I be looking for at a larger blade size? Are there any advantages to larger blades other than the cut width? I borrowed a saw from a friend but it's one of the Evolution multi-purpose ones with a custom bore size and low-tooth low-RPM blade that I'd rather not use for my cladding.
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May 28, 2018 13:48
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Jaded Burnout posted:Is there an equivalency between circular blades of different sizes and their number of teeth? short version: tooth count is oddly less useful than i've found it should be in denoting what to use where and for what purpose; check for "fine finish" and if it's a miter saw grab something with a 10 degree or so hook unless it's a slide saw in which case grab something with a negative hook long version: ignoring things like grind, hook angle, rake, and the design of the gullets for wood clearing, you can at get in the ballpark by counting teeth per linear inch: teeth / (diameter * pi), but honestly just use 3 for pi since you'll be dividing it out later anyway so for example, my 80 tooth 12 inch finish blade is 80/(36) ~ 2.2 teeth per inch, so if i had a 10" saw and wanted a close enough blade, i'd do 2.2*(10*3) ~ 66 teeth, and lo and behold, 60 teeth is a finish blade type that would give something in that ballpark; if i had a 7 1/4 saw, the equivalent finish would be ~ 48 teeth, which exists so your 80 tooth in a 210mm is equivalent to a 100 tooth in a 250mm, which may be totally poo poo for what you're doing because the only ~250mm 100 tooth blades i've used have been plywood specific grinds in a table saw to prevent tearout and were janky as gently caress when doing miters in a miter saw because of the design of the tooth, gullet, and hook the thing is it's kind of a useless exercise due to the above grind/hook/rake/gullet design
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May 28, 2018 21:22
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Sounds.. complicated
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May 28, 2018 21:44
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Vitamins posted:Funnily my drill was an Aldi special I bought a few weeks ago. It’s been really good up to this point and tackled all the jobs I’ve thrown it. It was only drilling brick that it stumbled on. Sadly it won’t come out of hammer mode now thanks to me being an idiot and killing the internals, but I’d recommend those drills any day of the week, especially at the price point! If you have the receipt, Aldi have an almost zero quibbles return policy, go get a new one.
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May 28, 2018 22:05
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Cross posted from AA thread ... Had a basically new arcan floor jack (3 ton aluminum) stop functioning while I was trying to rotate my tires. My 4runner was on jack stands when it decided to not want to lock anymore (when you rotate clockwise to allow it to pump). It would just keep rotating as if it were stripped and wouldn't support a load. Yes jacks fail and this is why you use stands/support for safety. Ill be contacting them for a warranty/return. The dumb cheap floor jack I had previously lasted me forever. This new fancy one lasted a half dozen uses. Luckily I bought it through Costco so if Arcan decides to be dumb, Costco will give me my money back.
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May 29, 2018 03:31
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Haven't pulled the trigger yet but I think we're going to get some kind of toro walk-behind floating deck mower. The amount of stuff we need to mow most weeks isn't actually that extensive -- probably 1-2 hours of work. But, it's all at some kind of grade, and half of it is steep enough that it seems really sketchy to do (and in many cases very inconvenient to turn around) with a riding mower. And, there's a lot of places where the ground is pretty beat up / has gouges / etc, so something with a suspension seems like it will last a lot longer. My parents have a ~$500 Honda self-propelled deal, I reminded myself what that was like when I was visiting them last week, and I don't see that working well here. The thing that got me to really stop thinking about riding mowers was realizing that if we had a walk-behind with a sulky, I'd probably only want to use the sulky on like a third of the lawn, which maybe amounts to an hour of mowing with a normal lovely civvie mower, and probably a half hour with a ~32" Toro deal. I still need an ATV and probably a tractor with a loader and god knows what else, but that's going to have to wait for another year at least. I am gonna break my back pulling pine chunks out of the woods with a hand cart this year, and not worry about trying to haul any of the real firewood. (The economics here are a little dubious, but I need the pine for maple sugaring, and I can't buy wood for that because it becomes a stupidly expensive endeavor if I do. On the other hand, just buying pre-split hardwood to heat the house makes more sense because it's offsetting oil consumption). Also -- I messed around with my dad's chainsaw, it's a 14" Shindaiwa. I do not think it's any more powerful than the 14" Makita electric I have, and despite a better run time, overall it seemed like a lot more of a pain in the rear end to deal with. I do still think I want a gas saw, but probably a 16-18". I need to go use some of those to understand how much louder they are than the small ones; my dad's little saw actually was not any louder than the electric (both around 104db measured a few inches from the blade while cutting). Cabbages and Kings fucked around with this message at 15:56 on May 29, 2018 |
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May 29, 2018 15:53
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Squibbles posted:Take it from Chuck Grassley, sitting US Senator. This is the way to go don't do this With the dead man switches disabled too. Nice!
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May 29, 2018 18:43
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kid sinister posted:With the dead man switches disabled too. Nice! Well, you wouldn't want the mowers to stop when you jump out to make a quick visit to Dairy Queen for you know what... Or when you fall out
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May 29, 2018 18:55
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kid sinister posted:With the dead man switches disabled too. Nice! My coworker has a train 4 mowers wide that he tows behind his tractor. It halves his mowing time on big jobs.
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May 29, 2018 19:45
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Nerobro posted:My coworker has a train 4 mowers wide that he tows behind his tractor. It halves his mowing time on big jobs. Hell yeah. I have an acreage and with both my son and I mowing on 46” lawn tractors it takes 3+ hours. I’d chain 10 mowers together if I could.
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May 29, 2018 19:50
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mds2 posted:Hell yeah. I have an acreage and with both my son and I mowing on 46” lawn tractors it takes 3+ hours. I’d chain 10 mowers together if I could. Wait you have a single acre and with 2 x 46" mowers it takes 3 hours? I must be parsing something wrong here.
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May 29, 2018 21:58
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tangy yet delightful posted:Wait you have a single acre and with 2 x 46" mowers it takes 3 hours? I must be parsing something wrong here. I was assuming multiple acres, but even still, if 2 46" mowers aren't doing the job in 3+hours, I think I'd be approaching the problem differently. That mow time sounds like >6 acres, and at that point, I'd be on a utility tractor with a big ol' 5-7 foot rotary cutter.
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May 29, 2018 22:14
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