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And it's still slow as balls? Is it poo poo if you're wired into the TP Link router?
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Jun 21, 2018 15:13
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It currently tops out at 10MBps, I'll need to test from the desktop when I get home now that NAT is disabled (previously I was experiencing an annoying issue where the whole network slowed down when I was doing huge transfers) to see what sort of speed I get.
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Jun 21, 2018 15:32
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WDS bridge? Is that really how you have it set up? Isn't WDS the old school and lovely method of extending wifi, that tends to cut your performance in half at best?
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Jun 21, 2018 15:51
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IOwnCalculus posted:WDS bridge? Is that really how you have it set up? Isn't WDS the old school and lovely method of extending wifi, that tends to cut your performance in half at best? Yes.
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Jun 21, 2018 16:00
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Ashex posted:Pretty much this. Diagrams are fun so this is a lovely mockup of the setup: Oh, cool. I never thought about doing my own network diagram with one of those online tools. That should fill in the last half hour today :-D
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Jun 21, 2018 16:25
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This is actually a good idea. Is this setup bad? I have the power line adapters cus they were cheap and readily available, and the other equipment was just what I had on hand. I have really weak WiFi in the living room without the repeater in AP Mode. Most of my internet usage occurs in the living room, I'm trying to mitigate a lovely coax drop location, as my office is clear on the other end of the house. 
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Jun 21, 2018 17:09
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Wasabi the J posted:This is actually a good idea. Is this setup bad? I have the power line adapters cus they were cheap and readily available, and the other equipment was just what I had on hand. This is kinda like what I have set up. My modem and router are at one end of the house. Powerline adapters send the signal over near my main entertainment center where my AP lives along with my consoles and TV.
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Jun 21, 2018 17:15
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Can anyone think of a reason that 25 feet and one floor in a modern building would completely gently caress WiFi reception? Like to the point of not even being able to stream when you’ve got 150mbps coming into the router. It’s a TP-Link WD3600, is it just not good enough for that range? I don’t really have any central location to install it, unless I go all the way to the basement or something, which would defeat the purpose.
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Jun 21, 2018 18:11
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IOwnCalculus posted:WDS bridge? Is that really how you have it set up? Isn't WDS the old school and lovely method of extending wifi, that tends to cut your performance in half at best? I never said it was a super amazing setup  5Ghz Wifi connection is working again so I did a quick test of copying a 1GB video file from and to the media server: Media Server to Laptop over 5GHz Wifi: ~15MBps Laptop to Media Server: ~17MBps With the desktop that is plugged into the same router as the media server (I've verified that both have a link speed of 1000Mb/s): Media Server to Desktop over LAN: 80MBps Desktop to Media Server over LAN: 110MBps This tells me everything is peachy via LAN but there's a huge Wifi bottleneck which continues to mystify me. I was convinced that I would be able to bypass the WDS performance issues by leaving the 5Ghz wifi network up and connecting to it directly. Reviewing the route tables on my laptop, everything is going to the default route which points to the shitbox (fritzbox) so I suppose data may be routed through that somehow but then why do transfers continue to move at the low speed when shitbox is turned off? Maybe I should break off a /28 block outside the dhcp range then setup reservations for the desktop and media server inside the /28 block and add a static route with the Archer C7 routers IP?
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Jun 21, 2018 18:18
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Can anyone think of a reason that 25 feet and one floor in a modern building would completely gently caress WiFi reception? Like to the point of not even being able to stream when you’ve got 150mbps coming into the router. It’s a TP-Link WD3600, is it just not good enough for that range? I don’t really have any central location to install it, unless I go all the way to the basement or something, which would defeat the purpose. If it has to pass through walls/floor there could be god knows what in them. In one building I've installed some WAPs in it's primarily steel, concrete and cinderblocks. The Wifi from the floor above and below is just visible but not useable from one floor to the other (through thin steel), but as soon as it has to pass through a cinderblock wall or two it totally dies. The best advice of the thread is usually to get a couple of wireless access points that connect back to your router over ethernet and make sure they're distributed throughout the house to get decent signal everywhere. Unifi ac lites are just under $80 on amazon.
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Jun 21, 2018 18:41
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Modern buildings have insulation everywhere and sometimes that involves foil, and the studding might even be a metal frame.
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Jun 21, 2018 18:58
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22 Eargesplitten posted:a reason that 25 feet and one floor in a modern building would completely gently caress WiFi reception? Because WiFi is not magic, and building materials absorb RF signals.
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Jun 21, 2018 20:11
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For those of you with FiOS internet and TV who are using your own routers, what sort of topology do you have set up so that the STB can receive the channel guide still? Right now the Verizon router is connected to the ONT via Ethernet. The coaxial connection from the ONT goes into a Y-splitter, one side of which goes to the STB and the other side of which goes to the router, I assume to make the MoCA witchcraft work. I would like to redo this by making my AmpliFi the edge router. It is currently in bridge mode connected to the Verizon router. I think the right way to fix it is to just swap the two so that the AmpliFi becomes the edge router and DHCP server, and the Verizon router only exists to be a MoCA bridge for the channel guide. Does this sound correct, or is there some way in which I could further simplify things and cut the Verizon router completely out of the picture?
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Jun 21, 2018 23:37
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Have you tried just plugging the coax cable into the TV box?
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Jun 21, 2018 23:39
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Thanks Ants posted:Have you tried just plugging the coax cable into the TV box? When I disconnected the router from the Y splitter, the cable guide went away. It appears to be a required component.
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Jun 21, 2018 23:45
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chutwig posted:For those of you with FiOS internet and TV who are using your own routers, what sort of topology do you have set up so that the STB can receive the channel guide still? Right now the Verizon router is connected to the ONT via Ethernet. The coaxial connection from the ONT goes into a Y-splitter, one side of which goes to the STB and the other side of which goes to the router, I assume to make the MoCA witchcraft work. I just use the fios router with wifi turned off but from what I've read online about the setup to get the channel guide to work you've got it right. The Fios router will need to be able to access the internet from behind your other router and provide a connection over MoCA to the set top boxes.
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Jun 22, 2018 00:05
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The internet seems to think you can drop your Amplifi in (connected to the Fios ethernet) and then hook the Verizon routers WAN port up to a LAN port on the Amplifi. As above, turn the Wi-Fi off on it and don't use the LAN ports for your clients or you'll double-NAT everything.
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Jun 22, 2018 00:05
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Rexxed posted:I just use the fios router with wifi turned off but from what I've read online about the setup to get the channel guide to work you've got it right. The Fios router will need to be able to access the internet from behind your other router and provide a connection over MoCA to the set top boxes. Using it with wifi off is what I currently do. I want to use the AmpliFi mainly so that I can re-enable the guest VLAN. I will perform Science at some point and report back, once I stop being lazy.
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Jun 22, 2018 00:15
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chutwig posted:Using it with wifi off is what I currently do. I want to use the AmpliFi mainly so that I can re-enable the guest VLAN. I will perform Science at some point and report back, once I stop being lazy. Science has been completed and everything is working as expected. I will fix the Verizon router up later to put it into bridge mode so that the STB isn't getting double-NATted, but it's a very low concern indeed.
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Jun 22, 2018 00:34
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That’s a good point about insulation and building materials. I grew up in a house where the basement was basically a faraday cage, but that didn’t matter for inside it. I did just fine with the same router through a floor in one townhome, but that was maybe 10 feet horizontal and built in the ‘70s so who knows how different a 2012 built house is. I didn’t think interior floors tended to have insulation (groverhaus joke) but who knows how that’s changed. I also can’t remember the range this thing had in the Wirecutter review. I didn’t care much about it since I had a small place. Fake edit: Actually, thinking about it, in that 25 feet straight line there’s multiple walls, including a garage wall and ceiling, along with a washer/dryer set. Mystery solved.
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Jun 22, 2018 00:36
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So on a purely academic hypothetical, if I wanted to run single mode fiber around my place, what kind of equipment would I need re: switches, adapters, NICs
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Jun 22, 2018 00:39
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Anybody have AT&T’s gigabit fiber? I just had it installed last week and from what I was able to research before I had to leave town was that the ONT has to talk to their provided “modem”/router and simply plugging in the edgerouter x WAN to the ethernet on the ONT only works for like 15 minutes before it gets de-authed. Another post I saw had them cloning the mac address of the provided hardware but still had the AT&T box hanging off their switch. I was thinking about messing around with it some more when I get back next week, but for now it is just set up to DMZ to the ER-X with everything else behind that, and I turned off all the radios on their hardware. I still got speed tests of 980 Mbps up and down, and 3 ms pings, should I even bother? Also any tips for hardening an ER-X? I checked the default firewall from the 1 WAN/2 LAN wizard I set it up with and it had a default of drop all incomings set. I’m not able to access the ER-X admin or SSH in from the public IP so it looks like everything is in order. I just want to be sure I’m not missing something. Also another sec sanity check- When I do open a port to ssh back home, it will be on a non-standard port that is forwarded to a linux VM that only allows logins with keys. I did this for my brother’s server but also included fail2ban and haven’t had anyone try to keep banging their way in, so I was thinking about leaving that off on my setup.
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Jun 22, 2018 01:03
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A year or so ago I was having some streaming quality / bufferbloat issues and ended up picking up an Archer C7 . I installed Gargoyle on it to use their Active Congestion Control feature, which drops my max speed a bit but keeps everything more stable and I haven't had issues at all since. However, I noticed it often cuts my bandwidth way down, from my 175 speed to sometimes around 30. Doing some research it looks like when doing large downloads or utilizing much of my bandwidth the router's CPU is way overloaded, as I've seen it peak in the 5 minute column up to 4.5 load average. This seems to be causing the router to miss pings and assume my bandwidth is saturated, dropping the max speed further and further down. Even turning off ACC or limiting the speed to 100Mb/s it seems like the router's CPU gets overloaded running at faster speeds. Does the C7 not have the CPU power to handle a 175Mb/s connection? Or should I be looking in to a different custom firmware to solve bufferbloat issues? Edit to say: I've also messed with ACC a bunch, changing the ping targets and such but I still see the same results. Radioactive Toy fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Jun 22, 2018 |
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Jun 22, 2018 01:30
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ickna posted:... I'm doing just that, only using a Raspberry Pi instead of a full-size Linux box. From the Pi I can access other stuff. If you want to regularly transfer files and data over SSH then the RasPi will be lacking in throughput. It's good and discreet if you just want terminal access, though.
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Jun 22, 2018 03:28
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Radioactive Toy posted:A year or so ago I was having some streaming quality / bufferbloat issues and ended up picking up an Archer C7 . I installed Gargoyle on it to use their Active Congestion Control feature, which drops my max speed a bit but keeps everything more stable and I haven't had issues at all since. However, I noticed it often cuts my bandwidth way down, from my 175 speed to sometimes around 30. Doing some research it looks like when doing large downloads or utilizing much of my bandwidth the router's CPU is way overloaded, as I've seen it peak in the 5 minute column up to 4.5 load average. This seems to be causing the router to miss pings and assume my bandwidth is saturated, dropping the max speed further and further down. Even turning off ACC or limiting the speed to 100Mb/s it seems like the router's CPU gets overloaded running at faster speeds. So the problem with third party firmware on the c7 is that the hardware NAT translation doesn't work so it gets put into software,which does eat up a lot of CPU. For that reason I stuck with the stock firmware before I replaced mine.
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Jun 22, 2018 05:07
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I’m still trying to theorycraft my network while I wait for the installers to get here. I’ve got three rooms up on the top floor, L shape. My office is the corner of the L. The farthest point of the farthest room is 15 feet and 2 interior walls from my office, where I would probably be keeping the network equipment. No metal appliances or anything like that. One bedroom, living room, and kitchen on the ground floor. Also an L, with the living room at the corner. The farthest wall of the bedroom from the likely install point is about 15 feet, one wall and a closet door away. The farthest part of the kitchen is 25 feet max, no walls. I’m thinking router with no WiFi needed in the basement phone box, run Ethernet to my office and our room where my wife’s computer will be. We both use desktops, so Ethernet doesn’t have any downsides. Set up a WAP or our old router (configured as a WAP) in my office to cover WiFi for the top floor. A second WAP on the ground floor in the living room. I’d want to keep it a decent ways from the TV, correct? I’m thinking that should provide reception to the whole house, while also providing Ethernet to the rooms that will use it. Does that kind of range seem realistic while only needing to hit 1 floor each? I also need to find a cheap WAP that isn’t complete rear end for the bottom floor. I’m on a tightish budget so I’d probably be using an edge router downstairs.
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Jun 22, 2018 16:43
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Can you draw it out?
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Jun 22, 2018 16:53
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MSPaint incoming this evening.
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Jun 22, 2018 18:05
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22 Eargesplitten posted:MSPaint incoming this evening. https://draw.io is good
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Jun 22, 2018 18:24
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I started drawing one up in Excel on lunch, but I may very well just be an idiot. Is there any reason it wouldn’t work to just monitor signal strength for a bit in the farthest locations using a phone app or computer pro? Then I don’t have to guess based on dimensions of the house. Really I think my main concern should be finding a cheap router with 2gb throughput and 4+ Ethernet jacks. Failing that, a cheap router with 2gbps throughput and a cheap switch. The cheapest router option seems to be an Edgerouter light.
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Jun 22, 2018 21:41
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22 Eargesplitten posted:The cheapest router option seems to be an Edgerouter light. I had a bunch of words but "yeah" is probably the best response. You'll hit other bottlenecks first before you hit bottlenecks in the routing/NAT performance of the edgerouter lite.
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Jun 22, 2018 22:23
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I am looking to get rid of a crappy FiOS router. Is there any reason for me not to jump on the Newegg deal for an Edgerouter X for $38. I had been running a full machine with pfsense, but it seems like I would save a ton on power and it would be way less hassle.
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Jun 22, 2018 22:52
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This is probably a loving stupid idea, but would it be possible to set up a server as a router and then connect a gigabit switch? I found a guy on Craigslist when looking for switches. He has a Cisco 2970 and a HP DL380 G4 (8gb RAM) I could get for next to nothing. He’s trying to get rid of his IT hoard as he downsizes into a smaller house. Not sure what the throughput would be on the HP, and I’m not sure how much electricity it would be gobbling. I would actually enjoy screwing with installing Linux and configuring the server as a router. I’d set it up as a NAS too, but lol at using SCSI drives for a NAS in 2018.
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Jun 22, 2018 23:48
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Keep your actual home network stuff simple and silent and low-powered. If you want to dick around with Linux then do it on a Digitalocean VPS or something. There's a reason why decade old servers are worth nothing. The last thing you need is to plan to do some work from home or a Skype interview for a new job or whatever and you can't because the Linux box you learn on and has power supplies that have seen 10 years of usage decides to poo poo itself.
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Jun 22, 2018 23:55
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You could also just have a really simple fallback option that “just works”.
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Jun 23, 2018 00:18
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Why do you guys have to be sensible and pointing out real problems and poo poo  What about the switch? I’m thinking combine that with an ER-L so the three ports isn’t an issue. The 5 ports are stupid expensive comparatively, and with the 24-port switch I could connect every jack in the house. There’s some other poo poo the guy has, I might poke into the storage thread and see if any of them seem like decent choices. They’re all old-ish, but not all ridiculously old. There are also standard tower form factor PCs that would be a lot easier to get parts for on top of the rack and/or tower form factor servers. E: The fiber installer plugged the fiber modem into the cable going to the jack the farthest from our office in the entire house  . A blazing fast 8 mbps on a gigabit connection. Now I need to figure out which of these unlabeled cables goes to our office until I can get a router and switch for downstairs.Whatever is the main equipment will be in the basement so noise isn't a big concern. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Jun 23, 2018 |
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Jun 23, 2018 02:43
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DEUSFORORUM posted:I am looking to get rid of a crappy FiOS router. Is there any reason for me not to jump on the Newegg deal for an Edgerouter X for $38. I had been running a full machine with pfsense, but it seems like I would save a ton on power and it would be way less hassle. ER-X is an amazing deal at $38.
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Jun 23, 2018 02:59
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Kickass, found a guy locally selling an ER-L for $50. Good deal? It sounds like a good deal. Also going to try to get that Cisco 2970 unless someone talks me out of it.
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Jun 23, 2018 03:02
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Kickass, found a guy locally selling an ER-L for $50. Good deal? It sounds like a good deal. Like a lot of rack mount stuff it'll be louder than your basic unmanaged switch but it will work.
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Jun 23, 2018 04:20
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Rexxed posted:Like a lot of rack mount stuff it'll be louder than your basic unmanaged switch but it will work. Yeah, you're not going to get anything worth buying in consumer grade switches with 24 or more ports. That's pretty much the breaking point for getting legit business hardware.
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Jun 23, 2018 05:52
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