|
Paul MaudDib posted:The 8700K rules the roost for gaming, the 2600X is slightly cheaper with not terribly lower framerates, the 2700X is roughly the same price but slightly better at highly multi-threaded stuff. I'm still deciding whether to go with an 8700K or try out a 2700X for my upcoming build. For context, I have a i5 3570K currently overclocked at 4.2 Ghz and slightly undervolted. I could push it another 200-300 Mhz without doing a lot of work, but  . I occasionally game, but these days using ordinary productivity software takes up most of my PC usage.Having 2 additional cores and 4 extra threads sounds appealing, but being stuck at 4.2 Ghz with no additional overhead for overclocking sounds less appealing.
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2018 08:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 10:35 |
|
|
So why do you think you need to upgrade? The system you have will crush any non professional workloads no problem. If you have to upgrade bug, put a bigger, faster SSD maybe, or upgrade your cooling.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2018 08:58
|
|
|
I'd wait for Zen 2 with a CPU like that but that's just me.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2018 12:04
|
|
|
Balliver Shagnasty posted:I'm still deciding whether to go with an 8700K or try out a 2700X for my upcoming build. For context, I have a i5 3570K currently overclocked at 4.2 Ghz and slightly undervolted. I could push it another 200-300 Mhz without doing a lot of work, but You can also view it as being able to drop in zen2 which should be on par with or better than intel's new stuff sometime in 2019. Honestly, I'm just waiting for 2019 at this point. Khorne fucked around with this message at 12:37 on Jun 27, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2018 12:35
|
|
|
Need a workstation at home. Is there anything wrong with the basic plan of Ryzen 2700x motherboard 32GB memory 0,5-1TB m.2 fast disk, probably Samsung 960 EVO "enough" slower SSD (2TB probably in 1-2 physical disks) and some sort of cooling solution (water, air?) Since I have to live with the thing and it's going to be on 24/7 it would be nice if it was quiet when not under heavy load. No overclocks. I'll transfer over MSI 1060 GTX, 12 mo old 550W Seasonic Gold power brick, Fractal Design R3 case and a bunch of older disks. Does it matter what mobo I get as long as it's X470? Same with memory as long as it's 4x8GB sticks of 3200MHz on the approved list? Can I get more bang for the buck going Intel 8700K? I'm in the rare position of being able to utilize more than 4 cores. I'll mostly have to compile stuff, do some low intensity (but long running) tests and occasional database, mapinfo etc. stuff. Budget is somewhere around $1500. I'm very likely to run this hardware until it falls apart in one function or another so price is not as important as suitability for work.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2018 17:47
|
|
|
Hob_Gadling posted:Need a workstation at home. Is there anything wrong with the basic plan of That looks like a good plan for your workload. You've already got a quiet case and you're not overclocking, so I wouldn't really worry about noise even with the stock cooler. You can always pick up a DH-15 or something later if it bothers you. If you're extremely persnickety about noise, you might want to upgrade the power supply at some point, a beefier unit would mean the fan would kick on a lot less. Only other thing to consider is maybe going TR instead, but it's probably overkill and your single core speed would suffer.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2018 17:59
|
|
|
Quick note on Ryzen RAM support: 2x16 is supposedly better than 4x8 due to being easier on the controller, IIRC the officially supported speed with four sticks is lower as well.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2018 18:04
|
|
|
So, all in all, very similar list to a poster from the previous page, but he got a recommendation on going with AMD over Intel fro his needs, so double checking this is a good list (and if I'm missing something like I should pick up an extra fan or something). Badly need to upgrade my current system with i7 920 and NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti as it's increasingly showing its age as of late. What country are you in? US What are you using the system for? Playing video games on it. I mostly play Overwatch, but I'd like to get back into "modern gaming" without having to crank all settings to low and then still have it lag in spots (or have games like Mirror's Edge which is sort of unplayable) What's your budget? <$1500 If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? Right now it's 1920 x 1080 (with a secondary monitor at the same size to have my web browser open or whatever). I do plan to play games via steamlink on my 32in TV. I'd like to be at least in the mid-range for picture quality of games. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-8600K 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor ($238.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock - Z370M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($109.89 @ OutletPC) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($177.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($113.88 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($459.99 @ Amazon) Case: NZXT - S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg) Total: $1265.70 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-06-27 16:01 EDT-0400
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2018 21:11
|
|
|
Master_Odin posted:So, all in all, very similar list to a poster from the previous page, but he got a recommendation on going with AMD over Intel fro his needs, so double checking this is a good list (and if I'm missing something like I should pick up an extra fan or something). Badly need to upgrade my current system with i7 920 and NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti as it's increasingly showing its age as of late. For the most part this looks good. Only real change I'd suggest is that you should either step up the motherboard to an Asrock Z370 Extreme4 (if you want to overclock or even just enable max stock turbo on all cores at the same time), or step down the CPU to an i5-8400. Right now you're paying extra for an overclockable CPU but your motherboard isn't great for overclocking. If you are going to overclock you might also want to consider a bigger CPU cooler and maybe an extra case fan. You can step down the PSU to a 550W one too to get a bit of extra efficiency and maybe save  . An i5 is never going to draw more than like 150W without exotic cooling, and you can't make a 1070 draw more than 180W without physically modifying the card's onboard power regulation, so even 550W is complete overkill.This configuration should be able to support best possible graphics quality in basically all modern games at 1080p, and you'll probably get well over 60fps too. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Jun 27, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2018 21:29
|
|
|
At some point in the next few months I'm thinking about building a PC along the lines of the gaming rigs the last few pages. It will be replacing the internals of a computer I built in 2013. This is probably a silly question, but I love having a fanless cooler for my CPU, and want to know if it's feasible to use again. A cursory search of PC Parts Picker makes it seem like they are non-existent at this point. I'm hoping they just went out of vogue because they're huge and people prefer smaller cases. My fear is they are no longer used because they don't work as well. It's not the end of the world if it wouldn't be sufficient, but the existing CPU cooler not working with AMD might make the difference between going i5 or Ryzen. I intend to re-use my existing, massive case regardless. For reference: Case: Cooler Master HAF 932 CPU Cooler: HE02 Fanless Cooler
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2018 22:21
|
|
|
Blowjob Overtime posted:At some point in the next few months I'm thinking about building a PC along the lines of the gaming rigs the last few pages. It will be replacing the internals of a computer I built in 2013. This is probably a silly question, but I love having a fanless cooler for my CPU, and want to know if it's feasible to use again. A cursory search of PC Parts Picker makes it seem like they are non-existent at this point. I'm hoping they just went out of vogue because they're huge and people prefer smaller cases. My fear is they are no longer used because they don't work as well. All you need is a converter bracket, available here.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2018 22:45
|
|
|
TheFluff posted:For the most part this looks good. Only real change I'd suggest is that you should either step up the motherboard to an Asrock Z370 Extreme4 (if you want to overclock or even just enable max stock turbo on all cores at the same time), or step down the CPU to an i5-8400. Right now you're paying extra for an overclockable CPU but your motherboard isn't great for overclocking. If you are going to overclock you might also want to consider a bigger CPU cooler and maybe an extra case fan.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2018 00:57
|
|
|
Looking for a new tower case with tempered glass. I like 3.5" drive capacity and radiator space. I don't like "fat" towers that are shorter and wider. Cube cases are right out. I would prefer E-ATX capability. Kinda looking at the Fractal R6. With that as a baseline, what are the tradeoffs of the Define R5, the Define S, and the Define 2 XL? Any other nice models from other brands I should consider? Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Jun 28, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2018 07:44
|
|
|
Paul MaudDib posted:Any other nice models from other brands I should consider?
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2018 08:21
|
|
|
The Dark Base 900 (Pro) has some pretty weird fan placements, but it comes with fan filters and a fan controller - that's gimped on non-Pro. I'll probably go Corsair next time assuming they put fan filters in their cases.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2018 12:08
|
|
|
Master_Odin posted:What would be the recommended CPU fan and case fan brand? Depends on how hard you want to push. If you're okay with a mild overclock then the cooler you have is okay. If you want to push it, the usual suspects are Noctua NH-D15, BeQuiet Dark Rock Pro 4 and the Cryorig R1 Ultimate. For case fans, can't go wrong with the Corsair ML series. 140mm is generally better than 120mm if you can fit them. Paul MaudDib posted:Looking for a new tower case with tempered glass. I like 3.5" drive capacity and radiator space. I don't like "fat" towers that are shorter and wider. Cube cases are right out. I would prefer E-ATX capability. I have a BeQuiet Dark Base 700, and it's fine. I don't think it's worth it over the Define R6 though, unless you really like the invertible option.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2018 13:17
|
|
|
ItBreathes posted:All you need is a converter bracket, available here. Thanks! I was leaning Ryzen before PC Parts Picker said my cooler wasn't compatible with AMD.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2018 14:05
|
|
|
ufarn posted:The Dark Base 900 (Pro) has some pretty weird fan placements, but it comes with fan filters and a fan controller - that's gimped on non-Pro. The weirdest thing about this case is PSU placement. At least for me it sits weirdly in the middle of the case. The passthrough was too long for me. Other things: LED strips included aren't compatible with Motherboard inputs. I didn't bother with included fan controller, used the one on Motherboard. I don't have any device that charges wirelessly, and I've ended up turning off most of the LEDs. In short PRO would be a waste of money if I didn't get an open box one that was priced the same as a regular 900. The case build is solid, and it's very quiet. I don't regret my purchase. But buying today I'd get Fractal Design Define instead. It wasn't available when I bought my case.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2018 15:37
|
|
|
Speaking of cases, anyone know of good easy-carry lightweight cases? My gaming PC does dual duty as under-desk KB/M gaming system and attached-to-TV faux-console (no Steam Link for me right now sadly) – so the ability to carry it up/down stairs is a must. Current system is a BitFenix Prodigy and I may just keep using that but I'm wondering if anything lighter exists. I ran across the Corsair 380T which seems real nice, but it's discontinued; and the Fractal Node 202 looks plenty small but I'm not sure how easy it is to schlep around given it's still a handle-less box.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2018 16:25
|
|
|
bitprophet posted:the Fractal Node 202 looks plenty small but I'm not sure how easy it is to schlep around given it's still a handle-less box. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2018 16:35
|
|
|
alex314 posted:The weirdest thing about this case is PSU placement. At least for me it sits weirdly in the middle of the case. The passthrough was too long for me. The fan controller on the non-Pro is gimped, and you can't buy the Pro one separately, which is just plain stupid. I don't want any RGB, and my iPhone doesn't support Qi charging anyway, but finding out in the fine print that the fan controller is gimped was pretty annoying. Parts of the case were also banged up, and I had to get a replacement case because the front door was busted - which could probably have been fixed by just telling me it's a known issue due to improper installation that is easily remedied. Their customer support is pretty garbage, too - and they're even European. It's gonna be interesting how you go about buying their upcoming PSU shrouds. Hopefully it's not a total pain in the rear end. ufarn fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Jun 28, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2018 16:47
|
|
|
bitprophet posted:(no Steam Link for me right now sadly) Steam link is on sale right now during the summer sale for $2.50 (USD). But they do appear to be back-ordered. Just in case anyone didn't know who was interested.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2018 17:41
|
|
|
Syves posted:Steam link is on sale right now during the summer sale for $2.50 (USD). But they do appear to be back-ordered. Just in case anyone didn't know who was interested. Shipping brings it to 10 or more. Not a bad deal if you’ll actually use it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2018 18:12
|
|
|
ufarn posted:Be Quiet 900 Yeah, the design feels dated, despite it being released 2 years ago. 700 series is improved in many ways. Still front door is well designed for noise and airflow. 3 X 140mm fans and huge interior volume makes thermals not an issue. It's a true monster of a case.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2018 21:21
|
|
|
I'm considering building a new gaming PC after probably 7 years without a desktop computer. I'm thinking of a budget of about $2,000, and I need everything but a keyboard and mouse, including a monitor. After trying to start researching I got hung up with an early question which seems like it will determine the parts I look for for the entire PC: Given my budget, what resolution should build for? Also if anyone have any monitor suggestions that'd be awesome. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2018 23:47
|
|
|
tophet posted:I'm considering building a new gaming PC after probably 7 years without a desktop computer.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2018 00:06
|
|
|
Start with what kind of monitor you want and work backwards from there. Hive mind recommends 1440p @ 120hz or above, possibly with gsync.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2018 00:28
|
|
|
tophet posted:I'm considering building a new gaming PC after probably 7 years without a desktop computer. Just a preliminary list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/YcT2kd You can get many of those components cheaper (Newegg rather routinely puts out email promo codes that knock G.SKill 3000/3200 down to ~$150 and Corsair LPX of the same speed down to ~$170), so don't be too dismayed by the $2200 list price. Obviously, savings could be had by going down to the Dell 27" TN G-Sync monitor when it's on sale for $400-450, going down to a 1070 instead of a 1070Ti, slightly cheaper RAM, and snagging the 8700K at the more recently common price of ~$299. You can also save a bit either trying to reregister your existing Win7 key as a valid Win10 key, or buying a license through SAMart. I'm also assuming you have a hard drive you can use from your older system. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Jun 29, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2018 01:10
|
|
|
PC part picker isn't showing the 8700k at $300 in its history, how common is that deal? Also I thought they closed the loophole that lets you use win7 keys still last new year's, is that not the case? Or can I just try putting the code in and maybe get lucky?
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2018 02:33
|
|
|
Koramei posted:PC part picker isn't showing the 8700k at $300 in its history, how common is that deal? MS is being uncharacteristically generous when it comes to contacting them directly. If you offer them a valid key for Win7 and up, they'll generally reauthorize it for a Win10 installation without any fuss. Not sure if they'd do the same for WinXP seeing as it's been officially EOLed. Also, I'd near-guarantee the 8700K will go on sale for $299 or lower for the July 4th weekend. Micro Center has had the 8700K for $300 for a while now, but they only sell it in-store: http://www.microcenter.com/product/486088/Core_i7-8700K_Coffee_Lake_37_GHz_LGA_1151_Boxed_Processor BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Jun 29, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2018 03:14
|
|
|
Thanks guys, that’s all helpful. I appreciate the head start
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2018 03:35
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:MS is being uncharacteristically generous when it comes to contacting them directly. If you offer them a valid key for Win7 and up, they'll generally reauthorize it for a Win10 installation without any fuss. Not sure if they'd do the same for WinXP seeing as it's been officially EOLed. Ah I just message their support or something? I guess I'll give it a try, it'd be nice to save money there since my build has gotten a lot more expensive in ways I hadn't planned. I don't have a Micro Center near me but I'll definitely keep a lookout for the 4th of July, thanks for the heads up. I guess other components will probably go on sale at the same time right?
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2018 03:49
|
|
|
tophet posted:Thanks guys, that’s all helpful. I appreciate the head start No problem - it should also be said that the 970 EVO is just a suggestion - you can get a 1TB SATA drive for the same money these days. Koramei posted:Ah I just message their support or something? I guess I'll give it a try, it'd be nice to save money there since my build has gotten a lot more expensive in ways I hadn't planned. I don't have the phone number available, but you don't have to have a key to install Win10, but when you try and activate it, there should be a 1-800 number listed. If you call that and provide them with a valid key (people have even provided upgrade keys), they generally will green-light it. And yeah, try signing up for Newegg's mailers. You can always unsubscribe after you buy your components, but the only way to get their "email only specials" is to be a subscriber, or call them directly and order over the phone. They don't spam - I get maybe one email from them every day or two at most, separated by ~10-12 hours each. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Jun 29, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2018 03:53
|
|
|
Will do, thanks a lot for the help.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2018 04:04
|
|
|
You can also just try popping the key in when you install and see what happens. I've gotten several 10 Pro activations out of my original two retail 7 Pro keys, the most recent just last week. I usually just let the install finish with no key, then go to the in-OS activation menu and provide it there. I was even able to use a 7 Ultimate "Upgrade Only" key to get a license or two, though I had to first install Vista and upgrade to 7 with it before using the 10 upgrade utility from there.
Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Jun 29, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2018 05:03
|
|
|
So I got a Ryzen 2700x and hosed up on the install, ended up reseating it because I thought the clip was up but it was down. Not great for the thermal pads but the am4 bracket for my h7 was in the mail and I couldn’t wait. Had some stability issues so now that the bracket is here I tried to reinstall it. Problem is the thermal pad was a) hanging off the cpu and b) strangely goopy (5 minutes after powering off). Short version is, there’s AMD thermal material in the cpu slots on the motherboard. Any cleaning tips? I have 99% isopropyl alcohol and not much else.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2018 06:09
|
|
|
kaschei posted:So I got a Ryzen 2700x and hosed up on the install, ended up reseating it because I thought the clip was up but it was down. Not great for the thermal pads but the am4 bracket for my h7 was in the mail and I couldn’t wait. Had some stability issues so now that the bracket is here I tried to reinstall it. Problem is the thermal pad was a) hanging off the cpu and b) strangely goopy (5 minutes after powering off). Short version is, there’s AMD thermal material in the cpu slots on the motherboard. Any cleaning tips? I have 99% isopropyl alcohol and not much else. Maybe try some sort of vacuum first, then turn it upside down and use a tooth brush dipped alcohol. Preferably single malt scotch.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2018 07:09
|
|
|
VulgarandStupid posted:Maybe try some sort of vacuum first, then turn it upside down and use a tooth brush dipped alcohol. Preferably single malt scotch. Don't just use any sort of vacuum first, though - if it's not an anti-static vacuum, you don't want it near your motherboard. If you don't have one, just skip to the toothbrush in alcohol. You should also check whether your thermal paste is conductive so you know how thorough you need to be.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2018 07:39
|
|
|
It’s whatever AMD slathers on the wraith prism. CPU manufacturers usually keep electrically conductive stuff away., right? Used a paintbrush dipped in alcohol and almost all of it came off in 5 minutes... been scrubbing however long and just realized the remainder is stuck on the socket and not in it. I’ll try a toothbrush. Thanks! Edit: I’m going to bust something getting the drat retention hooks unscrewed... kaschei fucked around with this message at 08:47 on Jun 29, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2018 07:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 10:35 |
|
|
Well it booted... looks to me like the only case fan that reaches is opposing the h7 fan. Is there any reason I can’t plug a fan into a 4 pin “aio pump” connection? Got through one game of q.c without crashing. Going to bed now. Thanks for the advice earlier.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2018 09:56
|
|