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MetaJew posted:This gear may have stripped: It could be the switch itself too. I'm remembering now once or twice where it wouldn't go for a little bit. I'll try and listen to hear if the motor is going or not. I already had the car started.
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Jun 18, 2018 12:22
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| # ? Apr 28, 2024 21:37 |
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:So I still have the Corksport adjustable shocks and Cobb springs on my Speed3, and it's too low and too stiff for the bullshit roads of Oakland. Might not be able to get a set of bilsteins for a few months- they're having supply issues right now. But just different springs might do what you want.
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Jun 18, 2018 16:59
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Charles posted:It could be the switch itself too. I'm remembering now once or twice where it wouldn't go for a little bit. I'll try and listen to hear if the motor is going or not. I already had the car started. It's pretty easy to take the door card off and then three screws to pull the motor. With the key in the ignition you can then toggle the switch with the motor in your hand and see if it is binding, spins freely, or doesn't even turn on. Just my two cents. Although, the front door card seemed to have more clips than the rear, and I broke a few, so be careful. I manage to pick up some spared from my local O'Reilly's. The packaging said they were for Nissan's but they were identical to what Mazda used.
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Jun 19, 2018 03:52
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MetaJew posted:It's pretty easy to take the door card off and then three screws to pull the motor. With the key in the ignition you can then toggle the switch with the motor in your hand and see if it is binding, spins freely, or doesn't even turn on. Just my two cents. OH yeah, I tried it out, the relay clicks, can't tell if the motor is spinning or not. I'm waiting for the garage door to be repaired so I can work on the car. I actually have coilovers waiting to go on.
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Jun 19, 2018 04:45
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Local dealer did recall work on my 3 for the seat lifter. Apparently seat rail was broken so I got a new one. Oh and my sticky dash is no longer sticky, replaced that for free too.
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Jun 20, 2018 00:00
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I just got an Alpine iLX-207 installed as a head unit on a 2011 3. Install went well, except the installer forgot to connect the iDataLink to the car's bluetooth module steering control pin so now I'm down a few buttons on the wheel. Dunno if I feel like asking them to fix it or not, but since the thing has CarPlay and other stuff the loss of the hang up / voice button on the wheel is low on the list. The unit has a hard key voice button for Siri and incoming calls show up on the screen (and Siri can voice command them). iDataLink is nice, inasmuch as I can now see my car's water temperature, volt meter, et cetera. It has a bunch of other gauges and can show check engine codes and other neat things. Unfortunately, it does not show TPMS (and I don't think it will on any Mazda). A while back I inquired about dash kits. There were two options I had seen at the time, the Metra and the Scosche. The Metra was a non-starter (ugly as hell) and the Scosche just looked kinda plain. I did some research and found the JDM adapter kit, which would have cost $150-ish to import, but it was the nicest looking of the bunch. Turns out (as always) there is a much cheaper, similar looking kit to the JDM by Carav. Bought it on fleabay, arrived a few weeks later. Even though it's not quite as good looking as the JDM (the bottom edge is straight instead of curved), the rest looks 99% the same and it flows into the dash so much better than the Metra or Scosche kits. The little wings for screwing in the head unit itself are plastic and feel cheap, but I have to admit it does the job. Also, if anyone here has an Alpine head unit, I made a Mazda-themed Alpine boot screen. You have to save the file as openingfile.bmp, then put it on a FAT32 formatted thumb drive in a folder named OPENINGFILE (all caps). Plug in the USB, power on your car, and it should ask if you want to use the customization. If you're interested in making a custom boot screen, It's pretty straightforward, you just have to anamorphically scale the file before saving. Design the file at 872x480, then scale it to 800x480. The head unit display will stretch it back out. If you make it natively at 800x480 without that squish, it'll look wrong on the display. Save it as a 24 bit (specifically 24 bit, not 32 or 8) windows-format BMP out of Photoshop, name it right, and you're golden.  
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Jun 24, 2018 00:15
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That looks great!
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Jun 24, 2018 01:25
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I actually have the metra and didn’t mind the look. Probably cause it was free though, that always has an effect on me.
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Jun 25, 2018 03:47
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That actually doesn't look as bad as I would have expected. My number one grievance with aftermarket HUs is that they are ugly as sin. I went with one of the aftermarket Eonon OEM-look HUs which worked great for a while but the whole thing turned into a quagmire of lovely Chinese electronics after a while so I went back to my stock radio with a bluetooth aux-in. Seeing your setup makes me want to reconsider an aftermarket now.
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Jun 26, 2018 20:10
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Are there any kits that keep for the first-gen 3 that keep the outside temperature display?
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Jun 26, 2018 21:25
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Do you have auto climate? I think if you have auto climate it still displays the HVAC controls and temperature.
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Jun 26, 2018 22:01
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Charles posted:Are there any kits that keep for the first-gen 3 that keep the outside temperature display? Depends on the year of the car. 2006 and above it's on a separate power harness so if you get a dash kit that mounts the temp display, you'll still be in business. There's plenty of posts on Mazda forums about it. iDataLink does have ambient outdoor temp as a gauge option, FWIW. Martytoof posted:That actually doesn't look as bad as I would have expected. My number one grievance with aftermarket HUs is that they are ugly as sin. I went with one of the aftermarket Eonon OEM-look HUs which worked great for a while but the whole thing turned into a quagmire of lovely Chinese electronics after a while so I went back to my stock radio with a bluetooth aux-in. Seeing your setup makes me want to reconsider an aftermarket now. Eonon is hot garbage to be avoided. Alpine makes pretty stylish units but when the HU is a touchscreen that takes up 90% of the area of the unit it's kind of hard to screw it up. I did find the GUI on the iLX units to be decent enough, even when you're not using Carplay/Android Auto. Being able to color-coordinate the HU's color scheme with your dash lighting helps a lot too. For those that don't know what they look like, here's a comparison of some images I've swiped of the various dash kits for the 2010-13. Metra   Scosche  Mazda official JDM / Asia   Carav 
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Jun 26, 2018 23:36
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I have a 2008 MS3 and running 215/45/18 tires again. Just noticed the driver rear tire is not as deep into the wheel well as the passenger side... is this an alignment issue or what else should I be checking? It'll occasionally rub when hitting bumps.
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Jun 26, 2018 23:47
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'13 MS3 ~48k mi Turn on the car, all diagnostic lights go away, and when I turn the steering wheel either direction, my AFS light starts blinking. The HID lights don't move with the wheel anymore. Halp?
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Jun 29, 2018 19:05
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Guessing steering wheel angle sensor issue? Honestly don't know though
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Jun 29, 2018 23:47
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I did a bit of mountain road driving for the first time since swapping my MS3's old Bridgestone Potenza S-04 Pole Position tires to BFG G-Force Comp 2 A/S I got a few weeks ago. I'd been on those Potenzas for several years before switching. According to the ratings, the BFGs last twice as long as the Potenzas, at the expense of some grip. Well I can confirm that grip is way down on the BFGs. The Potenzas were indeed pretty much glued to the road by comparison. Paradoxically, to me this actually makes the car more fun to drive. With the Potenzas, I couldn't really drive it at the limit without fearing that I'd kill someone. It took so much speed to get them to slide that I didn't really have a feel for how much traction the car had left. But in retrospect, I can recommend the Potenza S-04 as a very capable tire.
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Jul 2, 2018 01:09
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Aexo posted:'13 MS3 ~48k mi Clock Spring?
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Jul 2, 2018 20:40
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Got the new continental AS’s on, driving on grooved pavement is...very interesting.
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Jul 3, 2018 03:00
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Note: You cannot mount a canoe to the roof of a 2018 mazda3 sport without the roof rack The yoke chewed two holes thru the paint down to the metal because of the roof arch. RIP paintjob
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Jul 8, 2018 14:04
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MA-Horus posted:Note: You can buy foam block kits meant to raise the boat a few inches and provide some give for ratchet straps to cinch onto. (Though the ones I tried kind of baked themselves onto the paint so I went and bought a rack anyways)
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Jul 8, 2018 15:55
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MA-Horus posted:Note: What the hell were you expecting? Hope you don’t live somewhere that salts the roads. Even if you don’t it’s going to rust. Seal it ASAP.
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Jul 8, 2018 17:36
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eddiewalker posted:You can buy foam block kits meant to raise the boat a few inches and provide some give for ratchet straps to cinch onto. (Though the ones I tried kind of baked themselves onto the paint so I went and bought a rack anyways) I used foam blocks and ratchet straps. Keeping the boat tight on the roof caused the roof panel to deform enough for the yoke screws to grind against the paint. I've mounted canoes before on my old '08 mazda3 with no issues at all. I think the roofline is curved enough that there's no way to do it without a rack. Guess I"m getting that repainted.
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Jul 8, 2018 20:22
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What's the best wheel for driving down unpaved roads? A steel wheel? I bent a RPF1 and don't want to do it again.
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Jul 12, 2018 02:12
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Ruby's got an appointment at the tint doctor this weekend! 
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Jul 12, 2018 03:56
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MC Hawking posted:Ruby's got an appointment at the tint doctor this weekend! I don’t know where you live but get the darkest poo poo possible.
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Jul 12, 2018 04:41
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Planet Sunburn about two exits down from the federated township of pasty white people. I'm planning on getting something less than full blackout, around "relatively smoky." The shop does exclusively Rayno Phantom series ceramic tint. I wanted S7 Charcoal but they don't have it in stock so I'm getting S5 Black which doesn't have the exact same thermal properties, but it's close enough. We'll iron out the hinks when I go in this weekend. S7 is way more expensive too and lets face it, it's a higher mileage car and there's other priorities to be had.
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Jul 12, 2018 05:06
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I’d get the s5 in 15% all around if it’s legal where you’re at.
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Jul 12, 2018 14:48
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That's darker than legal where I'm at and I'd like to keep visibility pretty good. I'll take some snaps when it's all done.
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Jul 12, 2018 16:51
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REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS posted:Got the new continental AS’s on, driving on grooved pavement is...very interesting. So... Beyond that how are they? Grooved pavement screws with everything. Charles posted:What's the best wheel for driving down unpaved roads? A steel wheel? I bent a RPF1 and don't want to do it again. I dunno if steel rims are more "flexible" but they're an order of magnitude cheaper to replace. Visit the wrecking yard and get some old steels with the necessary Mazda pattern and offset and slap some cheaper 14-16" tires on there and let the sidewalls absorb some of the pain?
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Jul 16, 2018 08:31
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Fabulousity posted:So... Beyond that how are they? Grooved pavement screws with everything. Yeah I’d just never run into vast sections of it like I did in Houston. Made me feel like I was driving a car made out of jello. They feel a bit less rock solid than my old yokos but seem to be breaking in fairly well (~1k miles so far), they are quieter (for now, I don’t know how long that will realistically last, but my old ones were about deafening on certain road types). Plus I got them for like $450 installed/covered after rebates, so that was a big plus. Traction seems good (wet and dry) but they could just still be new enough to be fairly sticky, or my old tires were more worn than I thought. Once they became available I had several tire tech dudes recommend them over the new yokos.
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Jul 16, 2018 14:20
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Fabulousity posted:So... Beyond that how are they? Grooved pavement screws with everything. I think 16 is the smallest you can go on my car. There are no wrecking yards here to speak of so I'll just steel up my current tires which are 8 years old and due for replacement.
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Jul 16, 2018 19:10
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Does anyone here use an aftermarket roof rack? Any recommendations?
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Jul 16, 2018 19:24
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MA-Horus posted:Does anyone here use an aftermarket roof rack? Any recommendations? I have a first-gen 3 and there are threaded mounting points hidden underneath the roof rails. You can drill a hole to expose them or just buy ones with cut-outs online. I use a Yakima mounting system & cross-bars with my cargo box. I'm sure you can get the same from Thule.
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Jul 16, 2018 19:36
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MA-Horus posted:Does anyone here use an aftermarket roof rack? Any recommendations? I DIY'd a roof rack, so to speak. The rack itself is a trim-mounted model but I couldn't bring myself to attach to the trim and possibly gently caress up the weatherstripping, etc. I ended up drilling holes in the roof rack itself so I could thread a strong bolt through to attach to the factory mount points. It sounds sketchy but has held up super well. Mind you the most I carry is a 50lb kayak with full front/rear strapping. I thought I had a better photo but I guess not? 
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Jul 16, 2018 20:31
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quote edit:Martytoof posted:
quote:I'm going to re-do these with a different screws next year to make it easier to remove. [Narrator voice] He didn't.
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Jul 16, 2018 20:32
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Haha, I was hearing Ron Howard say that in my head before you confirmed it.
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Jul 17, 2018 14:03
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MetaJew posted:This gear may have stripped: Well when I removed the motor the thingy inside with the wire coiled inside it fell inside and completely unrolled and now I'm in deep poo poo. drat it.
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Jul 30, 2018 01:28
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Charles posted:Well when I removed the motor the thingy inside with the wire coiled inside it fell inside and completely unrolled and now I'm in deep poo poo. drat it. gently caress. I'm sorry. It definitely seemed precarious the two times I've removed the motor. The first time the with Dow was stuck rolled down. The second time the with Dow was up and I used a bunch of blue painters tape to try and hold the window up. No idea of those two things helped me at all. Good luck.
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Jul 30, 2018 03:59
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A stupid thing that has been bugging me for several years while owning my MS3. The driverside windshield wiper smacks the a-pillar at higher speeds. Is this common? I guess if I knew how to carefully pop off the wiper arm, I could adjust it's off position a few degrees down so that at full speed it didn't hit the A-pillar? Have any of y'all tried doing this?
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Aug 2, 2018 06:45
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| # ? Apr 28, 2024 21:37 |
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MetaJew posted:A stupid thing that has been bugging me for several years while owning my MS3. The driverside windshield wiper smacks the a-pillar at higher speeds. Is this common? I guess if I knew how to carefully pop off the wiper arm, I could adjust it's off position a few degrees down so that at full speed it didn't hit the A-pillar? Have any of y'all tried doing this? Well I have to put a new wiper arm on as the hood got closed on mine while the wiper was up  I'll see how it aligns. Don't have that problem but I have an 06 regular model.
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Aug 2, 2018 08:19
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