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Tapedump posted:If you want, you can get a pair of them on Amazon for $7. Way overpriced, but if you have Prime... meh, might beat time/hassle of looking locally.
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Jul 5, 2018 04:18
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Would it be better to wait for the next generation of CPUs that aren't suffering the performance hit from Spectre/Meltdown, or is it not a big enough hit to delay? I'm on a 3770 i7 (non-k, no overclocking) which is still a solid cpu, but I'm itching to get off my ddr 3-1333 RAM.
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Jul 5, 2018 04:26
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:So I won an 8086K, so now I'm changing my old ITX build around. My main question is how do I cool it, especially if I want to possibly push it to 5ghz on all cores. Is an AIO worth it and idiot-proof? Or should I stick with something like an NH-D15? For reference it'd be going into an NZXT H200. I'd recommend the one-tier-higher motherboard simply because of the better power handling circuitry: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16813157794 And no - any NVMe drive you mounted would have four PCIe 3.0 lanes all to itself. The CPU supplies 16 lanes directly to the GPU, and the Z370 chipset itself has 24 to play with, minus extra peripherals on the board and the HSIO lanes. So in short, no - it wouldn't slow down anything. That being said, on the ~Fatal1ty~ board, the M.2 slot is on the underside of the board, so selecting a case that has good flowthrough might be advisable. CascadeBeta posted:Would it be better to wait for the next generation of CPUs that aren't suffering the performance hit from Spectre/Meltdown, or is it not a big enough hit to delay? I'm on a 3770 i7 (non-k, no overclocking) which is still a solid cpu, but I'm itching to get off my ddr 3-1333 RAM. Intel's being very tight-lipped about their octacores, but the rumor that they're going to have 9xxx branding makes me hopeful they'll have the fixes baked into the chips. And yes, there's a performance hit, but it's not crippling. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Jul 5, 2018 |
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Jul 5, 2018 05:13
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I guess I should have asked this long ago, but the spectremeltdown stuff just automatically applies through windows update right? All the tech sites back then mentioned patches coming "soon" but never said where to get them or how to know you're good.
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Jul 5, 2018 05:23
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BIG HEADLINE posted:I'd recommend the one-tier-higher motherboard simply because of the better power handling circuitry: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16813157794 Thanks! I might go with that board then. Wouldn't the H200 be fine? Its mITX but rather roomy for one, and the Gamer's Nexus review seemed to give it high marks.
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Jul 5, 2018 05:32
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buglord posted:I guess I should have asked this long ago, but the spectremeltdown stuff just automatically applies through windows update right? All the tech sites back then mentioned patches coming "soon" but never said where to get them or how to know you're good. Meltdown can be (partially) patched in software, but Spectre has to be patched in microcode (which MS is only doing on *newer* CPUs, evidently) and through a BIOS update. New vulnerabilities with both have come to light since the initial release about it, too. Ultimately, it's something the end user doesn't need to worry about as much as sysadmins and data centers. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Jul 5, 2018 |
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Jul 5, 2018 05:33
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E:^ oh or.. well how much is the performance hit? BIG HEADLINE posted:Intel's being very tight-lipped about their octacores, but the rumor that they're going to have 9xxx branding makes me hopeful they'll have the fixes baked into the chips. And yes, there's a performance hit, but it's not crippling. Wait, so that stuff actually hasn’t been solved even for the brand new 8xxx stuff? It basically seemed to have disappeared from the conversation so I figured it was all behind us. I was just agonizing over whether to go for 3000 RAM now that the sales on 3200 seem to have ended but if there’s a tangible hit to the CPU from that maybe I should wait some more after all? (I’m in the same boat as that guy, 3770 and old RAM)
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Jul 5, 2018 05:39
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:Thanks! I might go with that board then. Wouldn't the H200 be fine? Its mITX but rather roomy for one, and the Gamer's Nexus review seemed to give it high marks. It's fine. NVMe SSD thermal throttling is a non-issue for consumers. Like, yeah, it'll be slightly slower if you're copying a hundred gigabytes at a time, but whatever. A NH-D15 might be a tight fit in the H200 though - it's got 165mm of clearance according to the specs, and the NH-D15 is exactly 165mm with fans installed according to Noctua. LRADIKAL managed to get a BeQuiet Dark Rock Pro 4 into his H200 though - build notes here. You need to be careful with what RAM you pick. Koramei posted:I was just agonizing over whether to go for 3000 RAM now that the sales on 3200 seem to have ended but if there’s a tangible hit to the CPU from that maybe I should wait some more after all? (I’m in the same boat as that guy, 3770 and old RAM) Speed difference with DDR4-3200 vs DDR4-3000 is pretty insignificant, but the price difference should also be pretty insignificant. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 11:17 on Jul 5, 2018 |
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Jul 5, 2018 11:14
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Memtest86 finally picked up some errors after the third night of leaving it running. 70 errors in test #6 over 10 passes. Weird that I did 20+ passes with zero errors before a bunch in a row. I’m running ram from my motherboard’s qvl at its rated XMP speed. I’m aware this is technically “over clocking” but will Newegg give me a hard time over replacing it? Is there anything to do besides replacement?
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Jul 5, 2018 13:51
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Yo if any of you folks getting rid of a 3770 is looking to sell them, hmu
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Jul 5, 2018 16:19
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Christ I feel stupid, my current cpu is more than likely vulnerable to/is seeing a performance hit from spectre/meltdown aren't I? So it's probably not even worth factoring in.
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Jul 5, 2018 16:57
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Less Fat Luke posted:Do you have a link to the listing? I have had no luck finding them on Amazon.ca. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BVRGVWY https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN6SMTX
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Jul 5, 2018 17:28
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So I'm thinking of upgrading an old value gaming build I made in 2012 since the Graphics card broke(and couldn't play modern games anyway) PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i3-3220 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor Motherboard: Asus - P8H77-M/CSM Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill - Value Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory Storage: Seagate - BarraCuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Case: BitFenix - Shinobi Window (White) ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: XFX - ProSeries 450W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply Optical Drive: Samsung - SH-222BB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 OEM 64-bit Definitely need a new CPU and Power supply, but do I need a new motherboard? It looks pretty cramped already so I'm not sure it can support a modern graphics card. Also is there any point changing memory?
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Jul 5, 2018 17:33
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You cannot run any modern cpu on a motherboard that old. They flat out won't fit. Same with RAM.
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Jul 5, 2018 17:35
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Good to know, I'm basically starting from scratch then. The case is still fine?
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Jul 5, 2018 17:38
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:So I won an 8086K, so now I'm changing my old ITX build around. My main question is how do I cool it, especially if I want to possibly push it to 5ghz on all cores. Is an AIO worth it and idiot-proof? Or should I stick with something like an NH-D15? For reference it'd be going into an NZXT H200. Congrats on winning the 8086K. I was gonna enter that contest, but I screwed around and wound up missing the entry deadline.
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Jul 5, 2018 17:47
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As long as you still have the parts you need and are happy with it, then yeah, it looks totally usable.
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Jul 5, 2018 17:47
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:So I won an 8086K, so now I'm changing my old ITX build around. My main question is how do I cool it, especially if I want to possibly push it to 5ghz on all cores. Is an AIO worth it and idiot-proof? Or should I stick with something like an NH-D15? For reference it'd be going into an NZXT H200. Congrats! Thats a hell of a loving thing to win!
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Jul 5, 2018 19:09
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kaschei posted:Memtest86 finally picked up some errors after the third night of leaving it running. 70 errors in test #6 over 10 passes. Weird that I did 20+ passes with zero errors before a bunch in a row. If it's throwing errors, it needs to be RMAed. Newegg will take a return if it's still inside the window for it.
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Jul 5, 2018 20:52
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If these apparently rumored 9th gen CPUs come out how likely is it that they would use z370? Mobo I want is on sale but I'm not ready for the whole build yet
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Jul 6, 2018 03:09
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The Slack Lagoon posted:If these apparently rumored 9th gen CPUs come out how likely is it that they would use z370? Mobo I want is on sale but I'm not ready for the whole build yet Extremely unlikely. Z390 is a thing. Probably the only 9000-series CPUs you'd be able to get working on a Z370 are the six-cores that are rumored to be launching with them. There was also a guy who recently broke an overclocking record running an 8700K on a Z270...but he had to disable three cores and three threads to do it. On the plus side, seeing how the new scuttlebutt is Intel is ditching their 10nm plans and going to focus entirely on 7nm being their new production node, a Z390 will likely 'do ya' for a while. It *does* give AMD a shot at wowing people with 7nm Ryzen 2s in 2019, though. They really should have put "50s" at the end of the Ryzen+ chips.
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Jul 6, 2018 03:18
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Typically you get two generations on a board, and what's more the 8-cores have also still been listed in documentation as 8th-gen/Coffee Lake, so the odds are better than you're giving them credit for. People have also dug up some BIOS strings that imply they should support 8-cores as well. I think the chances are pretty good, but I also wouldn't buy a Z370 board with the sole intention of holding onto it and waiting for 8-cores to come out. Part of the train of thought of segmenting between Kaby Lake and Coffee Lake may have been not so much that hexacores were an issue, but that octocores were going to be an issue.
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Jul 6, 2018 04:10
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Paul MaudDib posted:Typically you get two generations on a board, and what's more the 8-cores have also still been listed in documentation as 8th-gen/Coffee Lake, so the odds are better than you're giving them credit for. People have also dug up some BIOS strings that imply they should support 8-cores as well. I think the chances are pretty good, but I also wouldn't buy a Z370 board with the sole intention of holding onto it and waiting for 8-cores to come out. Here's hoping your optimism rings true, but I do have a suspicion that only the boards with primo power handling are going to pass muster. So, just another reason to suggest the Extreme4 as a starting point for people's builds. ASRock is also known for being adventurous when it comes to stretching the limits of what a board *should* be able to do.
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Jul 6, 2018 04:54
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$177 for a 1TB SSD if anyone is interested: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4G19X3 Can't speak personally on that brand's quality, but for the price that should make a nice drive for keeping games or whatever on and has a 3 year warranty.
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Jul 6, 2018 06:09
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I'm going to be upgrading my parents laptop. I've never done a laptop so just wanting to confirm. It's a Compaq Presario CQ62 with a 500GB HDD and Core i5 processor. I want to upgrade the RAM, HDD and install 64bit windows.
-Will a SSD like the 860 Evo fit? -Anything else I need to be aware of?
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Jul 6, 2018 14:17
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Looten Plunder posted:I'm going to be upgrading my parents laptop. I've never done a laptop so just wanting to confirm. - Yes, just make sure the laptop supports the clock speed on the RAM. - Any 2.5 inch drive should be fine, just make sure the laptop has a SATA header (it should, but you never know). - Compaq is a poo poo company with lots of proprietary and OEM bullshit.
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Jul 6, 2018 14:24
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It looks like it has a standard SATA connector: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Compaq+Presario+CQ62++Hard+Drive+Replacement/73280 The memory slots look easy to access too: http://www.insidemylaptop.com/hp-g62-compaq-presario-cq62-disassembly/. A 2x4gb kit will cost less, perform better, and is more likely to be supported than a 1x8gb stick. depending on the usage scenario, I would consider tossing out the DVD drive, getting a hard drive caddy, and putting the HDD there. if it's an old Windows 7 machine that got the free digital upgrade to 10, I'd register the digital license so that it can be reused once you reinstall, or you might be on the phone with Microsoft Support for a bit. remember, it doesn't have to be your user account that's holding the license - it can just be a dummy user account that does nothing except activate Windows ronya fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Jul 6, 2018 |
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Jul 6, 2018 15:30
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Looten Plunder posted:It's a Compaq Presario CQ62 with a 500GB HDD and Core i5 processor. With a laptop I would make sure to buy RAM that is guaranteed to be compatible. Based on Crucial's memory search there are different CQ62 models, some take DDR2 memory, others DDR3. Some models only accept 4GB RAM sticks at max. You should be able to find the exact model number at the stickers under the laptop, somthing like CQ62-214NR. Crucial and Kingston have tools on their website to find mode specific RAM.
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Jul 6, 2018 18:27
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I put together my current system in 2010, with the only significant upgrades since being the addition of the second monitor, a couple of mechanical hard drives, and going from 4 to 16 GB RAM. I've been surprised at how gracefully the system has aged. Until fairly recently, it was still able to run most new games at low to mid settings and has delivered in all the ways I targeted back when building, in terms of stability, decent performance, low noise levels, and longevity (We're approaching the 8 year mark!) I'd like to get about 3 more years out of this rig before building a new primary machine. I'm considering a few various upgrades and hoping to get some opinions on what makes the most sense. Here's what I have currently, along with potential upgrades. You can probably ignore the prices of my current gear, unless of course you're in the market for a $225 CPU from 2010! PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/H6nyxG Motherboard: Asus - P7P55D-E PRO ATX LGA1156 Motherboard CPU: Intel - Core i5-760 2.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($225.36 @ Amazon) I don't think there's much I can do about the fact that my system has an old, slow CPU since upgrade options are very limited with the LGA1156 socket. It looks like the fastest chip I could drop into that socket would be the Core i7 860, unless there's some variety of Xeon I should be looking into. My take is that the performance gain would be small, and not worth the time and effort, as well as the $50 or so the i7-860 is going for on Ebay. My other option CPU-wise would be overclocking my current Core i5-760 (2.8 GHz stock frequency)which I haven't looked into much since stability and quiet operation are far more important to me than minor performance gains of overclocking. Now, if I can expect major performance gains from overclocking the i5-760 without a hit to system stability I'd definitely consider it. CPU Cooler: Gelid Solutions - Rev. 3 Tranquillo 63.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($45.52 @ OutletPC) Memory: Kingston - 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory The mobo supports DDR3-1600, but I got a really good deal on four 4GB modules running at 1333 MHz. There's no point in trying to upgrade to 16 GB of 1600 MHz RAM, right? I don't know anything about overclocking RAM but probably not an option or not worth it here, right? Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 460 1GB Video Card I've got to believe there's room for significant improvement here. It seems like my CPU may still be a bottleneck, but if I can upgrade from a midrange card from 2010 to a midrange card from 2015 or something cheap on Ebay, what should I look for? Or is there current hardware I should just buy new that would be a good option? In terms of gaming, I just picked up GTA5 in the Steam Summer sale for $20 and would like to play modern games to the extent I can. I guess that means I'd like all the power I can get, without having it be too bottlenecked by the CPU. Storage: Intel - X25-M 80GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($194.46 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Green 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.09 @ Newegg Marketplace) Storage: Samsung - Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.89 @ Newegg Marketplace) Storage is another area I see huge room for improvement by going to a more modern and larger SSD. Looks like my mobo can't handle PCIe SSDs, so unless someone can correct me I guess the M.2 is out and I'm stuck in SATA III land. I'm looking at getting the Samsung 860 PRO 2TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD for around $780. This is a lot of money to spend on a part for a "holdover" system, but my thinking is that 3 years from now this part will still have a ton of utility and I'll pop it into the new machine. The argument against getting such a large SATA III SSD however, would be that I'd be better off trying to skimp by with perhaps a 512 GB SATA III drive since 3 years from now I'll find it frustrating that I've got all this SSD capacity being constrained by the narrow SATA III straw, and I'll be thinking in terms of PCIe or bust. Case: Antec - P183 V3 ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: Antec - High Current Pro 850W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply Optical Drive: Pioneer - DVR-118LBK DVD/CD Writer Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 7 Pro SP1 DE 64-bit I'm thinking of doing a fresh install of Windows rather than cloning the drive. I've never reinstalled since 2010, so I'm guessing this would make a big difference in terms of speed. Would I be better off jumping up to Windows 10 instead of just doing a fresh install of 7 Pro? Monitor: Dell - U2410 24.0" 1920x1200 Monitor ($487.41 @ Amazon) Monitor: Dell - U2415 24.1" 1920x1200 60Hz Monitor ($228.85 @ OutletPC) Total: $1300.58 Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-07-07 00:05 EDT-0400 Sorry for the length of this. Would greatly appreciate any advice! tldr version: It would be cool to have a lot of money and spend it all on hookers, blow, and computer parts!
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Jul 7, 2018 06:33
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Motherboard and CPU and RAM: if it's not causing any performance or technical issues for you, and it's working fine, I'd keep it. But the motherboard itself is going to be about a decade old at this point, and capacitors do have an operational life, and thermal cycling stress really adds up over time... what I'm saying is: make backups regularly. There's lots of upgrade capacity here but again, you might not actually be pushing the limits of a Lynnfield generation motherboard for a lot of reasonable usage scenarios. Three more years seems fine. I was running on an i7-860 a month ago and never really hit its limits. Then again, depending on the kind of modern games you're envisioning... just GTA V? GPU: I'd pick up a second-hand 980gtx somewhere I think. Prices are falling given the current news. But to make a more guided choice: what's the budget here, what games are you thinking of, and are you going to upgrade those monitors too? Storage: it seems quite rare to be constrained, even by SATA III, in most typical scenarios. Game loading has essentially negligible differences. Is this a de facto home media server that does a lot of multi-TB file transfers? 2TB is a lot. If a teeny 80gb SSD served fine as a primary system disk, I'd get a 256gb or 512gb SATA SSD, depending on one's bargain sweet spot. Samsung EVO seems fine for home usage. Windows: YMMV. You may have missed the boat on getting a free upgrade to 10.
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Jul 7, 2018 06:59
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Yeah I'd suggest just getting a new GPU and SSD, you can get a 1TB Crucial MX500 right now for $200 which is almost as fast as the Samsung 860 EVO. If you're sticking to 1920x1200 60Hz a 1060 6GB or used 970/980 will be a huge upgrade and should be good for three more years.
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Jul 7, 2018 07:21
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Thanks for all the laptop feedback guys. Don't think I'll ditch the DVD drive, my parents are old would still use it a fair bit I think. It's the DDR3 model by the way.
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Jul 7, 2018 07:42
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Smilin Joe Fission posted:2010 system PSU: The most important part to replace if you want to get another 3 years out of your system is the power supply. Your Antec is now (just) past warranty, and power supplies are notorious for taking a few parts with them when they blow. Fortunately, good power supplies come with 10-12 year warranties and could easily be transferred over to any new system you put together. The usual recommendations are the EVGA G1+ (12 year warranty) or Seasonic Focus Gold Plus (10 year warranty). $15-20 rebates are pretty common on Newegg or Amazon, but neither appear to have one running right now. Whether you'll want a 650W or a 550W (Seasonic only) will depend on whether you decide to go with 980/980 ti or a newer 10x card. GPU: For performance, a new GPU is going to give you the most bang-for-your-buck (and also be transferable to a new system). A used gtx 980 (currently ~$180-200 on ebay) would be sufficiently powerful for nearly all new games, but spending a little extra for a 1060 6gb (not 3gb) might be a better investment. It won't be more powerful, but they'll be more power efficient and most importantly, less old. EVGA, MSI, or Gigabyte cards have a 3-year transferable warranty based on the manufacturer ship date (listed in the first 4 #s of the serial number). Most used 1060 6gb cards should have 2+ years of warranty remaining. Used 1060 6gb cards are currently going for ~$180-230, if you're willing to spend a while bidding to get a good deal. You might also want to wait for one of ebay's 15-20% coupon deals, which seem to crop up for a day every month or so. Ebay has very consumer-friendly return policies, so as long as you're willing to spend a little time you can always aggressively return lemons or scams (within a month). Just don't buy anything coming from outside the US/Canada (assuming you're in NA)! SSD: MaxxBot and ronya's suggestions are good. SATA SSDs are totally fine for gaming - NVME is really currently only significantly better for dealing with very large files. Windows: Free upgrades are still happening. Get the Windows 10 Media Creation Tool and install Windows 10 over a valid Windows 7 install (fresh or not). You may have to call support to get your Windows 7 key working with Windows 10, but I haven't heard of anyone failing to upgrade yet.
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Jul 7, 2018 13:14
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There might be good deals on Nvidia's 1000-series GPU's coming up in July and August, if the persistent rumors about large unsold stocks and the upcoming launch of the next generation are true. We've already seen prices fall a bit.
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Jul 7, 2018 14:12
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So my computer will occasionally boot up and then restart against right away before ever leaving the BIOS. After it does this, nothing else funny happens. I noticed this began occurring after I started OC my CPU again, but it does this even if I have non-OC for default. Should I be worried? What should I do to stop this?
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Jul 7, 2018 19:25
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when I had that, reseating everything into the motherboard stopped it from happening my own tale of woe: new motherboard, new case, same gpu (680gtx blower). random Event ID 13/14 seems to happen unless I crank up the gpu fan to "vacuum cleaner" (feels like it happens more often when rendering video, but it's happened at the desktop before). tweaking software doesn't seem to have any impact. one thing I realized is that my previous case config always had at least one fan pointed at the top/backplate side of the GPU, but my current layout doesn't. is this a known issue for old blowers? extreme temperature sensitivity? it seems stable as long I hold it below 55°C
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Jul 7, 2018 19:48
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Trying to put together a computer for my brother. He is transitioning from consoles to PC. He would play steam games, world of warcraft, other blizzard games, and try to mess around in unity. Would like to spend around $1K and will have micro center put it together. Any recommendations on lowering the cost, part compatibility or general areas of improvement? Any help would be much appreciated. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2400G 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor ($155.90 @ OutletPC) CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Pure Rock Slim 35.1 CFM CPU Cooler ($21.29 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: MSI - X370 GAMING PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard ($99.93 @ OutletPC) Memory: GeIL - EVO POTENZA 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($75.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Samsung) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB SC GAMING Video Card ($229.99 @ Amazon) Case: Rosewill - CHALLENGER ATX Mid Tower Case ($38.24 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Antec - EarthWatts Platinum 550W 80+ Platinum Certified ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ SuperBiiz) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC) Monitor: Acer - H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($99.99 @ Best Buy) Total: $986.20 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-07-07 19:22 EDT-0400
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Jul 8, 2018 00:28
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Stickman posted:Windows: Free upgrades are still happening. Get the Windows 10 Media Creation Tool and install Windows 10 over a valid Windows 7 install (fresh or not). You may have to call support to get your Windows 7 key working with Windows 10, but I haven't heard of anyone failing to upgrade yet. Will this work if I install Win7 at first on the newest generation of Intel CPUs? I know they're supposed to be incompatible with 7 but is it compatible "enough" that it can make it through the installation process before it gets upgraded to 10?
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Jul 8, 2018 00:37
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Koramei posted:Will this work if I install Win7 at first on the newest generation of Intel CPUs? I know they're supposed to be incompatible with 7 but is it compatible "enough" that it can make it through the installation process before it gets upgraded to 10? Your mileage may vary but I recently just directly installed Windows 10 Pro with an old Windows 7 Pro key I had not used and it took it and attached a Windows 10 Pro license to my account.
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Jul 8, 2018 00:45
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Lame Devil posted:Trying to put together a computer for my brother. He is transitioning from consoles to PC. He would play steam games, world of warcraft, other blizzard games, and try to mess around in unity. Would like to spend around $1K and will have micro center put it together. Any recommendations on lowering the cost, part compatibility or general areas of improvement? Any help would be much appreciated. Don’t buy a 2400G and a graphics card.
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Jul 8, 2018 00:54
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