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Thanks, everyone. Yeah I think having a beater to wrench on would be my ideal just because I know I'll screw things up. I'll get one down the road. For now, these are some great Youtube channels that are exactly what I was hoping for and fit my Youtube likes of "Dudes explaining stuff."  Hilariously this thread is exactly what I'd do. Buy something obscure but neat with no idea what I'm doing. Dr. Kyle Farnsworth fucked around with this message at 09:51 on Aug 18, 2018 |
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Aug 17, 2018 23:50
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Oh god - I need to replace my golfs throttle valve. Youtube makes it look fairly simple though. Anyone know how much of a good idea it is to get an OEM replacement? Would it be better to buy genuine/more expensive?
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Aug 18, 2018 13:56
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Krispy Wafer posted:I've been feeling some weird stuff in the steering of my 2013 Kia Optima with 95k miles on it. Like a hitch or bump when turning the wheel. Today I noticed if I'm parked and turn the steering wheel in either direction I get a consistent bump or hiccup. Like I'm driving over a small animal. Update: My mechanic said it was a coupling issue in the steering column and then proceeded to print out a bunch of documentation from KIA explaining how this was covered by under a 10 year/unlimited mileage recall from the dealership. The coupling fails in humid environments, so the recall only seems to apply to certain states for which one is mine. But the dealership says they performed a preventive replacement for this 16 months ago while the car was in for service. The bulletin seems to imply they'll only replace the part once. So now I get to argue with the dealership about their replacement of a defective part that worked fine with a new and improved part that failed. Yay.
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Aug 18, 2018 16:02
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Krispy Wafer posted:Update: At the very least, they'll be able to furnish the documentation for this work from a year & a half ago. Even if they actually did it - a failure within 16-months is not a proper repair (or another defective part) and they have to re-do it.
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Aug 19, 2018 14:37
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What's the best tire pressure gauge I can buy for under $10?
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Aug 19, 2018 15:52
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I still use a pen style one I've had for the last 10 years, I'm sure it's lost some accuracy with age but they're dead reliable. I think any digital one you want to buy under $10 is going to be low quality and of dubious accuracy. Here's a link to a pen style one with good reviews. https://www.amazon.com/Milton-S-921...L70_&dpSrc=srchSurprise Giraffe posted:Oh god - I need to replace my golfs throttle valve. Youtube makes it look fairly simple though. Anyone know how much of a good idea it is to get an OEM replacement? Would it be better to buy genuine/more expensive? I mean if the price is close the OEM will likely last longer but as long as you get a good replacement brand it should be fine. What year is your golf?
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Aug 19, 2018 16:59
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Pretty sure I tried to buff out these out before, do I need to sand down a bit with 1500 grit? I've also got these on all the windows of another vehicle. What do I do for glass?
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Aug 19, 2018 18:35
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Alcohol and a razor
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Aug 19, 2018 18:48
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spankmeister posted:Alcohol and a razor In a hot bath? Seems a bit of an overreaction.
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Aug 19, 2018 19:07
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spog posted:In a hot bath? No just my Sunday morning routine
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Aug 19, 2018 19:14
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Chunjee posted:Pretty sure I tried to buff out these out before, do I need to sand down a bit with 1500 grit? What is it? Water spots? If so #0000 steel wool for the windows (try on a spot that isn't in view) and a water spot remover (haven't tried any so can't recommend one unfortunately). If that doesn't work try buffing again with a different compound/polish. If that doesn't work, maybe sanding.
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Aug 19, 2018 19:18
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MrOnBicycle posted:What is it? Water spots? If so #0000 steel wool for the windows (try on a spot that isn't in view) and a water spot remover (haven't tried any so can't recommend one unfortunately). If that doesn't work try buffing again with a different compound/polish. If that doesn't work, maybe sanding. Paging Kakermix. His detailing jobs are amazing
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Aug 19, 2018 19:28
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MrOnBicycle posted:What is it? Water spots? If so #0000 steel wool for the windows (try on a spot that isn't in view) and a water spot remover (haven't tried any so can't recommend one unfortunately). If that doesn't work try buffing again with a different compound/polish. If that doesn't work, maybe sanding. Thanks I'll try that before going straight to sanding.
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Aug 19, 2018 19:52
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 How did Oldsmobile get away with calling this bloated piece of garbage, the "Silhouette"?
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Aug 19, 2018 20:38
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Dennis McClaren posted:
 Its amazing how GM somehow moved BACKWARDS in styling.
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Aug 19, 2018 20:45
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Chunjee posted:Pretty sure I tried to buff out these out before, do I need to sand down a bit with 1500 grit? MrOnBicycle posted:What is it? Water spots? If so #0000 steel wool for the windows (try on a spot that isn't in view) and a water spot remover (haven't tried any so can't recommend one unfortunately). If that doesn't work try buffing again with a different compound/polish. If that doesn't work, maybe sanding. Yeah, 0000 steel wool, lots of time and some water, doesn't matter if it's hard or not. Clean the window first (to get off any actual loose dirt or sand), then spray it down with water and start rubbing. Keep it wet but not soaked. You'll feel how it catches, as you rub you'll feel the resistance change. You might have to go over it a few times and it might eat away a few hours. This is my result using just water and 0000 wool on an 85 Toyota:   In my case this was the only thing that would work. Started with a razor and that took for loving ever and was uneven. Alcohol didn't do poo poo, neither did various mixes of vinegar and water. The Door Frame posted:Paging Kakermix. His detailing jobs are amazing  Just finished up cleaning the interior of an 89 Pajero that had one owner that smoked the whole time. KakerMix fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Aug 20, 2018 |
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Aug 20, 2018 05:01
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I was thinking of getting some cameras for the front and back of my car. A cursory search seems to suggest that they are much cheaper then I imagined, you stick them up with a suction cup and you also need to charge them and/or replace batteries. I guess I got a bit caught off guard from how I imagined this would go - paying someone to hardwire and affix some-what pricey cameras. Anyone have recommendations and reviews?
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Aug 20, 2018 05:47
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Goodpancakes posted:I was thinking of getting some cameras for the front and back of my car. A cursory search seems to suggest that they are much cheaper then I imagined, you stick them up with a suction cup and you also need to charge them and/or replace batteries. I guess I got a bit caught off guard from how I imagined this would go - paying someone to hardwire and affix some-what pricey cameras. Dashcam Thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3597215 It's both a "talk about dashcams" and "post dashcam videos" thread.
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Aug 20, 2018 06:08
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Dennis McClaren posted:
Silhouette? It has one. Still better than their circa 2005 attempt to pass off the exact same ugly rear end minivan across all their car badges. A Saturn versus a Buick. It looks like they swapped out one plastic bumper cover and a grill.  
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Aug 20, 2018 12:27
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Autoexec.bat posted:
2005. Ended up booking the garage/dealership to do it as it sound like it would be more complicated than I thought. Thanks anyway
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Aug 20, 2018 12:51
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Krispy Wafer posted:Silhouette? It has one. Badge engineering is hardly a new concept, or one limited to that one model.
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Aug 20, 2018 15:25
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That one was notable because there is literally nothing but dead air under the hood from the bottom of the headlights up.
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Aug 20, 2018 15:37
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I need help identifying this part. It’s on the passenger side of the engine, a 454 V8 on a 1985 Chevy C20 truck. I took this picture on my back under the truck. There’s no leak but I want to replace that split hose before there’s a problem. I’ve looked through my chilton guide and the factory service manual, but I still don’t know what this golden part with the two hoses is. https://m.imgur.com/a/VIGd46r
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Aug 20, 2018 17:13
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Godholio posted:Badge engineering is hardly a new concept, or one limited to that one model. They usually at least try to make them look unique across brands. For instance a Buick Enclave is the same vehicle as a Chevy Traverse, but they look markedly different. They didn’t even try with that minivan. It’s no accident that GM sold few of those and declared bankruptcy within 3 years.
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Aug 20, 2018 17:14
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JUST MAKING CHILI posted:I need help identifying this part. It’s on the passenger side of the engine, a 454 V8 on a 1985 Chevy C20 truck. I took this picture on my back under the truck. There’s no leak but I want to replace that split hose before there’s a problem. I’ve looked through my chilton guide and the factory service manual, but I still don’t know what this golden part with the two hoses is. That's the fuel pump.
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Aug 20, 2018 18:03
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Dagen H posted:That's the fuel pump. Thanks, that's exactly right.
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Aug 20, 2018 18:09
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Anyone have any ideas where I can get flexplate bolts for either an 89 VW Golf or 98 Cabrio? None of my local stores carry them and they are torque to yield. I'm not even getting results on VW specific sites.
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Aug 21, 2018 03:42
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I've got an vibration that I'm having a hell of a time diagnosing. The car is a 2011 Hyundai Genesis Coupe 3.8 R-Spec. It feels like a balance problem. The steering wheel starts to shake at 65 mph and smooths out again at 80. The tires are in good shape, the wheels are straight, and I can rule out the balance because I work in a tire shop and balance the wheels perfectly (they never call for much weight either). I've also had another shop double check it with a road force balance. My next suspicion was that a brake rotor might have gone out of balance, so I replaced pads and rotors last weekend. The old ones were rusty as hell and it wouldn't have surprised me if they flaked off enough material to become unbalanced. After the rotor replacement the vibration went away for a few days, but it's come back again. After the shaking returned I tried re-bedding the brakes, and that helps for a while, but it always comes back. My gut feeling says one of the calipers is slightly dragging, but the wheels spin easily when in the air and the brake pistons compressed easily when doing the brakes. I'm stumped on this. Maybe one of ya'll can point me in the right direction. What other things should I be checking?
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Aug 21, 2018 07:31
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Shop is trying to charge my bro ~£1,000 to replace his ~2007 VW Golf 1.8TDI's throttle valve (includes cost of the valve itself). This sounds completely unreasonable to me - I've struggled to find throttle valves online but the ones I have seen are about £200, so unless this is like an 8 hour replacement job then I don't know how they could be charging that much overall? What do you guys think.
El Grillo fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Aug 21, 2018 |
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Aug 21, 2018 12:25
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WAIL posted:I've got an vibration that I'm having a hell of a time diagnosing. The car is a 2011 Hyundai Genesis Coupe 3.8 R-Spec. On original wheels? Most common cause is cars designed to be hub centric and aftermarket wheels don't mount perfectly centre without hub rings (in my mazdas and ford I could shove any rim on and it would centre perfectly even without rings, but for bmw this was a no go. It just is what it is for some cars). Other thing common in BMWs is worn control arms or tie rods can cause a vibration at a certain speed (again, in other cars it's just a knock, not some crazy vibration). Sorry I can't answer anything general or genesis specific, but you've checked common causes, time to check if hyundai got cute and ripped off a bmw design that has some weird behaviors. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Aug 21, 2018 |
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Aug 21, 2018 12:36
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2014 Mazda6 Grand Touring, 2.5 4cyl gasoline, about 55k miles on the clock. For the last 2-3 weeks it's been hesitating when I start it, but only in the morning. It'll make like 1 revolution, pause for like a quarter or half second, then continue on and start, if a little slowly. It's been getting progressively worse in that it only hesitated a little bit when I first noticed the issue, and now it's longer. Last oil change was at the dealer because I had a recall, brakes, alignment, etc. to take care of. No notable leaks, and I expect the engine would have toasted itself by now if they didn't fill it. So is this a dying battery problem? I thought a decent battery would get you at minimum 5 years, but this is the factory battery...never owned a new car so I dunno if they put in something decent or whatever cheap crap they can get their hands on. Possibly related but the AFS (swiveling headlights) light will stay on when this happens. That was actually the first thing I noticed, before it started really hesitating. Once the car is running I can re-enable AFS and it doesn't complain. Then throughout the rest of the day there are no issues, just when it sits overnight. edit: I'm guessing if this is a battery issue, the AFS is crying because the starter is taking what little power is available, so AFS doesn't have enough juice to run its power-on checks. OK the more I write down the more I'm starting to think this is the battery...thoughts? DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 13:06 on Aug 21, 2018 |
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Aug 21, 2018 13:03
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Check all neg grounds and the battery terminals for corrosion/secure fitment, otherwise if they're OK generally if the battery is over 3 yrs old, it's always the first suspect. I would always start there and then look at any current drains that caused the battery to die. It's only if the battery was under 3yrs old I would start thinking it's something else in the first place. Maybe you can get the battery tested, or buy a hydrometer? E: though if it's maintenance free then it may be really sealed. I'm pissed off my last battery was truly sealed for life and I can't do poo poo with it. I'm going to make sure I always get an open old style battery in the future if possible, or at least a maintenance free one with a cap that can somehow get popped off. Maintenance free sealed ones don't last much beyond 3-5 years if they have ever run low. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 13:33 on Aug 21, 2018 |
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Aug 21, 2018 13:27
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El Grillo posted:Shop is trying to charge my bro ~£1,000 to replace his throttle valve (includes cost of the valve itself). This sounds completely unreasonable to me - I've struggled to find throttle valves online but the ones I have seen are about £200, so unless this is like an 8 hour replacement job then I don't know how they could be charging that much overall? What do you guys think. Is it a Rolls, a Ferrari, a Ford or what?
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Aug 21, 2018 13:53
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Fo3 posted:Check all neg grounds and the battery terminals for corrosion/secure fitment, otherwise if they're OK generally if the battery is over 3 yrs old, it's always the first suspect. I would always start there and then look at any current drains that caused the battery to die. It's only if the battery was under 3yrs old I would start thinking it's something else in the first place. Looking around the internet for battery recommendations, sounds like many a 2014 Mazda 6 battery has fallen before mine, so I'm starting to think it's simply the battery is at the end of its life. I'll definitely check the main terminals for corrosion, since I don't think I've so much as looked at the battery since I bought the car, but that would probably just be a secondary issue. Didn't realize this, but supposedly warmer climates are harsher on batteries than colder climates...growing up in the north, I always thought the high demand of constant sub-zero engine starts was a huge battery killer, but apparently routine high temps where I'm at in the south now is more damaging to the battery.
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Aug 21, 2018 15:15
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2006 Durango SLT 4.7l v8 I purchased transmission and transfer case fluids to have my fluids changed. I bought the recommended Mopar ATF+4 that's supposed to be used in my truck. But later I remembered, my truck had a brand new transmission put in 30k miles ago. All I know about the new transmission is that it's a "Jasper" transmission, and when it was replaced. I don't know anymore about it. Should the ATF+4 transmission fluid be okay to use in my new transmission, even though it's not the stock trans the ATF+4 is recommended for?
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Aug 21, 2018 15:38
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Dennis McClaren posted:2006 Durango SLT 4.7l v8 You have the same transmission, Jasper just rebuilds them.
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Aug 21, 2018 15:40
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El Grillo posted:Shop is trying to charge my bro ~£1,000 to replace his ~2007 VW Golf 1.8TDI's throttle valve (includes cost of the valve itself). This sounds completely unreasonable to me - I've struggled to find throttle valves online but the ones I have seen are about £200, so unless this is like an 8 hour replacement job then I don't know how they could be charging that much overall? What do you guys think. Is this a shop or a dealership? This would probably be par for a dealership, but not an independent shop. They're a bit fiddly with plastic covers and crap and some hoses and stuff but it should be doable in an hour or so. It also needs a relearn with a VW scantool or VCDS. Remember that parts pricing on the internet is far lower than dealer or independent shop prices. That 200 pound will be 500 at a dealership easily. In any case it should be doable for far less. It's very easy to do yourself except for the relearn part, you need a scantool for that. I use a cloned VAG COM cable I got from China and an old version of VCDS. As long as it's current for your car it's fine.
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Aug 21, 2018 17:55
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opengl128 posted:You have the same transmission, Jasper just rebuilds them. Awesome thanks. Is there a general scheduled interval for when trans fluid should be replaced? I.E. "Every xxx miles" Now that I think about it, they must have already flushed/changed it 30k miles ago when they rebuilt the trans... Dennis McClaren fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Aug 21, 2018 |
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Aug 21, 2018 18:01
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DaveSauce posted:Didn't realize this, but supposedly warmer climates are harsher on batteries than colder climates...growing up in the north, I always thought the high demand of constant sub-zero engine starts was a huge battery killer, but apparently routine high temps where I'm at in the south now is more damaging to the battery. Heat absolutely kills batteries, I don't think I've ever seen a battery last longer than 2-3 years in Florida, trunk/cabin mounted weirdos notwithstanding.
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Aug 21, 2018 20:07
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spog posted:Is it a Rolls, a Ferrari, a Ford or what? It's gotta be a red car. They always overcharge on red cars. Blue cars are cheaper.
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Aug 21, 2018 20:59
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