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Unsinkabear posted:You guys are nuts. Today I dragged my wife to the climbing gym and felt like Tarzan for making in to the top of an autobelay 5.6 without chickening out. My unironic goal for next time is to jump off the top instead of climbing halfway down before I trust the autobelay to catch me. Definitely get used to the autobelay, but downclimbing is cool and good. It's great training.
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Aug 18, 2018 03:10
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| # ? Apr 28, 2024 15:44 |
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armorer posted:I've rapped off a bollard, and I've rapped off dead trees (although none pulled mid rap). It's not the sort of situation that I ever seek out though. What summits are you talking about where that's the only option? 
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Aug 19, 2018 16:08
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Is that coal you're climbing?
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Aug 19, 2018 17:35
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Weekend at the Voo. Climbed, rained, climbed, hailed, camp fire, lots of rain, diner breakfast, back to Denver. Felt good to make the most of a wet weekend.
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Aug 19, 2018 21:16
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Aug 19, 2018 21:50
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Home
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Aug 19, 2018 23:19
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That is some grade F choss right there. How far down does it continue like that? And could you rap off that point on the right for one rope length at least? Edit: Although really, it looks like you're scrambling there. Is it still 5th class there? It looks steep enough to be, but I've been on some nasty 4th class scree out there before.
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Aug 20, 2018 02:59
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 The gully terminates abruptly about 18 meters below where he is and then, well, ehhh, maybe 400 meters? 600? It's hard to tell how high that shitshow is. Every step set off a very loud and protracted landslide below us, must have scared the poo poo out of all the tourists yesterday. The fin on the right? Fuuuuuck no, it was dropping softballs on my buddy the whole time he was trying to go up. The whole thing would fall apart if you pushed it. He felt the moves to the top (which we didn't make, due to our rap line coreshotting while I was on it  ) are fourth but the exxxtreme risk of lethality bumps that up a bit. Anchor we built to descend into the notch from the subsummit. Top of the summit pinnacle has a choss bollard about 1/5 the size of this one, made of rocks 1/8th the size of these, with a couple slings buried in it. Four ascents since 1999, and we got within 10m. 
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Aug 20, 2018 04:42
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I would definitely rap off that, although the much smaller one you describe... I dunno, I'd have to see it. I can see why that thing has had 4 ascents in 20 years though. It would not be high on my list from those pics!
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Aug 20, 2018 11:32
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Rime posted:
 gently caress that noise, I'll stick to gym rat. Hell of an effort though! "Raining softballs" sounds brutal. Glad you trust your equipment and you know what you're doing.
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Aug 20, 2018 14:06
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What were you using as a rap line? Looks like 7 or 8mm static cord?
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Aug 20, 2018 14:21
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8mm Beal Rando. We had 400' of 10.5mm static in the van that we were going to chop 30m off instead, but the plan went awry and we ended up trying with the glacier line. There was a razor sharp edge about 10' below the lip which couldn't be seen until you had rapped past it, and the frayed spot it was putting on the rope. I pulled it out of the wall on my way back up, clears that issue for our return attempt. Pro-tip: 8mm line + volcanic choss = very likely death. 
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Aug 20, 2018 14:41
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Rime posted:... but the plan went awry and ... This is how type 2 fun is born. (Like the time I got stuck on a relatively easy alpine objective with my buddy with with no food or water for about 36 hours.)
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Aug 20, 2018 14:58
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armorer posted:This is how type 2 fun is born. (Like the time I got stuck on a relatively easy alpine objective with my buddy with with no food or water for about 36 hours.) The taste of pee has never been so sweet.
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Aug 20, 2018 15:09
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Cannon_Fodder posted:The taste of pee has never been so sweet. 36 hours was still just in the "very thirsty" time period. Although it was 36 hours of significant exertion, after several days of significant exertion, and we were both suffering from some really bad cramps including having our hands randomly cramp closed. Turns out that makes it hard to climb or rappel!
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Aug 20, 2018 15:16
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I'm sure. I went to the gym twice a couple weeks ago and couldn't stay on the wall. You're monsters.
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Aug 20, 2018 15:21
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I'm sure. I went to the gym twice a couple weeks ago and couldn't stay on the wall. You're monsters. You and me both, buddy. 
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Aug 20, 2018 15:39
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Rime posted:
So where is this obelisk of delight? You should go back with snow pickets and deadmen. Crampons too, are remarkably good in choss.
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Aug 20, 2018 19:32
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Or just go back when it's frozen more-solid and make it a winter climb. Why are you climbing a pile of choss in the first place?
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Aug 20, 2018 20:18
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armorer posted:Upload a pic of the front of the shoes Welp, the creasing broke and now I think I need a rand repair? Guess it couldn't last the rest of the season  
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Aug 21, 2018 03:02
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Those needed a re-sole a while ago. I would probably just toss them unfortunately.
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Aug 21, 2018 03:46
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If you send those in for a resole, they'll definitely need a rand and its hard to say how well it'll work. If the leather and stitching under there is all still fine, then it might be fine. Ive had shoes resoled in that condition and gotten 6 months more of climbing 3+ days a week out of them. (Which to me was worth the $50) YMMV! For future reference, they are well past the point where you should stop climbing on them if you plan to resole though. Basically you need to watch the seam between the sole rubber and the rand rubber. Once that starts creeping down, they should get resoled or else the rubber at your toe is the rand and not the sole.
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Aug 21, 2018 13:42
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The rand is the upper to guard bit?
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Aug 21, 2018 14:03
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The rand is the rubber that wraps around the front / top of the toe. It is a separate strip from the sole. It's not the end of the world if you need the rand to be repaired as part of the resole, but if you can avoid wearing them down that far then you can get theoretically a pair of shoes resoled over and over again until the leather disintegrates. I have a pair that's been resoled 5 times, and the last time Rock and Resole sent them back to me they wrote "RIP Last Resole" on the bottom. So, henceforth I guess that's how I'll know when I need to toss them. If you wear expensive shoes (~$150) then resoling them, even with rand repair, tends to be a cost effective option.
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Aug 21, 2018 14:23
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Moved from Vermont out to San Jose, really looking forward to getting nasty with all these parks out here. I drove across the country and climbed in Toronto, Boulder CO, and LA along the way. Totally jealous of Boulder tho, all those rocks everywhere look delicious. I know grades are all kind of arbitrary at a certain point but MAN was Petra (VT) rated funky compared to everywhere else. There was I projecting V2s and 5.8s. Now I can send most V3s with minor projecting and have been sending in the 5.9/10 range. This last week I even sent a V5 somehow! Lost my loving mind when I finished it, felt so good. Now I just need to build a new climbing crew to goof around with!
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Aug 21, 2018 17:23
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Speaking of climbing shoes my boyfriend has some practically new 5.10 hiangle shoes in a men's 10.5 that he regrets buying 2 years ago and hasn't used them since then so if anyone is interested he'll probably let them go for a deal. I can send pics to your email if you're interested.
cheese eats mouse fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Aug 21, 2018 |
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Aug 21, 2018 19:13
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Wrr posted:Moved from Vermont out to San Jose I'm glad I moved west but I do miss smuggs.
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Aug 22, 2018 03:45
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armorer posted:If you send those in for a resole, they'll definitely need a rand and its hard to say how well it'll work. If the leather and stitching under there is all still fine, then it might be fine. Ive had shoes resoled in that condition and gotten 6 months more of climbing 3+ days a week out of them. (Which to me was worth the $50) YMMV! Yeah they never really wore through as much as the rubber there just broke--obviously it was thinner there but hooking onto something sharp probably did them in. I did 2 more climbs after that but it definitely ended my day--now the hard part is shopping for another pair of shoes while waiting to hear from the resoler.
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Aug 22, 2018 04:09
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Suicide Watch posted:Yeah they never really wore through as much as the rubber there just broke--obviously it was thinner there but hooking onto something sharp probably did them in. I did 2 more climbs after that but it definitely ended my day--now the hard part is shopping for another pair of shoes while waiting to hear from the resoler. What we are saying is that you let the climbing rubber go too far and you were climbing on the rand. not ideal, not as strong, likely to rip and tear on rock. It is what it is at this point but you should consider a sooner decision point on a resole in the future.
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Aug 22, 2018 14:17
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Jumped off the top of several autobelays today 
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Aug 24, 2018 02:11
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Unsinkabear posted:Jumped off the top of several autobelays today It takes some guts the first time but soon you'll be throwing yourself off without even thinking about it 
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Aug 24, 2018 05:38
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Had to train myself to not fear the auto belay by climbing the baby-wall nonstop and jumping off progressively higher and higher. For whatever reason placing a hand on the auto-belay cord helps mentally, but I guess maybe thats not a great idea? Works for me.
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Aug 24, 2018 15:57
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Made a deal with a bud to go to a climbing gym I hadn't yet visited. Dude blew me off. Had a great time making friends and climbing anyway. poo poo yes, hobby. You rule.
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Aug 24, 2018 16:01
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Wrr posted:Had to train myself to not fear the auto belay by climbing the baby-wall nonstop and jumping off progressively higher and higher. For whatever reason placing a hand on the auto-belay cord helps mentally, but I guess maybe thats not a great idea? Works for me. For me it's a combination of the auto belay and heights in general, but this is exactly what I did too. 
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Aug 24, 2018 16:42
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I think I like autobelays more than human belayers tbh
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Aug 24, 2018 17:56
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Tactical Lesbian posted:I think I like autobelays more than human belayers tbh Me too, but if you're a person who's bad with heights, letting yourself fall backwards onto a line that feels completely loose and unanchored until it catches you is an interesting experience. It's a mini leap of faith every time and I'm pretty sure the more experienced climbers around me think I'm batshit, because I'm gasping and laughing and grinning like an idiot every time I make myself do it and don't die.
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Aug 24, 2018 18:09
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Tactical Lesbian posted:I think I like autobelays more than human belayers tbh Same, it's nice thinking "unless there's some kind of mechanical failure it's all good" vs. "yeah I'm pretty sure Dave isn't having a conversation with more than 2 other people right now so he's probably at least half paying attention"
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Aug 24, 2018 18:20
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I prefer climbing with a partner, because you check each other for safety before the climb, and can take and work sections higher up if you're pushing your limits. That said, if your partner is a space cadet all bets are off. Also, unfortunately, I don't think anyone has invented a lead auto-belay yet.
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Aug 24, 2018 18:47
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Don't climb with belayers you don't trust?
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Aug 24, 2018 22:03
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I've done wall climbing a few times before and it was kind of fun, but I'm looking for something I can do solo - is bouldering something I can do, renting shoes/etc. initially and just go every couple of weeks on my own at first? Or am I going to need to get specific lessons/buy gear to get anything out of it?
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Aug 24, 2018 22:30
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