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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

IOwnCalculus posted:

The only weird thing is I swear it runs backwards compared to every other trimmer I've ever used. I fully admit I haven't picked up a string trimmer in at least a year or more prior to using this, but my muscle memory is all built around using the left side of the string to shoot poo poo away from me instead of pelting my shins with (even more) debris.

Cheap-o curved shaft consumer string trimmers spin clockwise. Commercial and pro-sumer straight shaft ones spin counter-clockwise. This is why you see (right handed) landscapers walking backwards around beds and stuff as they are trimming.

Always seemed backwards to me, but after spending most of my teens landscaping that's how my muscle memory is wired.

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Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


I've just bought a Bosch GKT 55 GCE with track. This being my first track saw, are there any useful little bits I should get too?

I have a bunch of normal clamps about but nothing special.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Motronic posted:

Cheap-o curved shaft consumer string trimmers spin clockwise. Commercial and pro-sumer straight shaft ones spin counter-clockwise. This is why you see (right handed) landscapers walking backwards around beds and stuff as they are trimming.

Always seemed backwards to me, but after spending most of my teens landscaping that's how my muscle memory is wired.

That would explain it. I've never had anything but either curved-shaft cheap as gently caress gas trimmers, or an ancient lightweight corded Black & Decker piece of poo poo.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

Anyone have experience with bench dog planes or bad planes? I don't want to imply that bench dog is bad.

I've got a new stanley low angle plane and a bench dog #7 jointer. I've flattened the back and honed to 25 degrees with the veritas guide. The cheap stanley is amazing, while the #7 is ruining my life. If the chip breaker is too close, it jams up pretty furiously. There doesn't seem to be a depth setting between no shaving at all, and giant gouged chunk. Any tips? even a lovely plane when setup properly will work for a while, right?

Brute Squad
Dec 20, 2006

Laughter is the sun that drives winter from the human race

https://twitter.com/USCPSC/status/1039584153677848576

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

Jaded Burnout posted:

I've just bought a Bosch GKT 55 GCE with track. This being my first track saw, are there any useful little bits I should get too?

I have a bunch of normal clamps about but nothing special.

drat thats a sweet saw, be aware it doesn't have a riving knife

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


bobua posted:

Anyone have experience with bench dog planes or bad planes? I don't want to imply that bench dog is bad.

I've got a new stanley low angle plane and a bench dog #7 jointer. I've flattened the back and honed to 25 degrees with the veritas guide. The cheap stanley is amazing, while the #7 is ruining my life. If the chip breaker is too close, it jams up pretty furiously. There doesn't seem to be a depth setting between no shaving at all, and giant gouged chunk. Any tips? even a lovely plane when setup properly will work for a while, right?
No experience with bench dog, but it can help sometimes to flatten/hone the part of the chipbreaker at the very front where it sits against the iron, right down by the cutting edge. If it's not tight and flat to the iron, chips can get jammed up in there and make a mess. On cheaper/older planes sometimes they don't machine that part and it is just cast and very rough down there. Making sure the frog (I think that's the name of the part? the angled bed the iron sits on-you can adjust it with the screws you see when you take the iron off) is in the right place-try moving it forward and backward to get the iron in the right place in the mouth, and make sure it is really screwed down tight. Another possibility is the sole not being flat, but I'd be surprised if that had happened to a new metal one. I've had the problem with old wooden planes before though, and it can make you get either no chip or huge tearout if the bottom is convex. It's sacrilege, but with wooden planes you can just take the iron out and buzz them over the joiner lightly when they warp!

MrPete
May 17, 2007

Jaded Burnout posted:

I've just bought a Bosch GKT 55 GCE with track. This being my first track saw, are there any useful little bits I should get too?

I have a bunch of normal clamps about but nothing special.

For breaking down sheet goods I like to square the end after a rip, so would suggest getting the angle guide (FSNWAN) and an extra rail connector (FSNVEL) comes in handy if you for some reason need to attach both rails AND the square to do the long side.

Bosch Australia are loving useless at ever bringing in accessories for the tools they sell so I've always wanted one of the router guides (FSNGUIDE OFA) that goes on the track but haven't bothered to order one from the UK as yet.

The stock blade is pretty good, have used it for plywood, mdf and hardwood. With the hardwood I just took itty bitty bites and even with the high tooth count it did OK. Infinity tools in the US has blades that will fit. Haven't bothered yet cos the stock one is still ticking along fine after 4 years. Just keep it clean and it cuts forever.

Other than that, I think the clamps (FSNSZW) might come with the saw now? Otherwise they are OK but expensive for what they are really. Look around for clamps to fit mafell tracks too, that's the oem for bosch.

Speaking of, there is a forum for the mafell mt55 which shares a lot of dna with the bosch saw, http://mafell-users-forum.freeforums.net/board/2/mt-55

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

This one's my favorite https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2018/Harbor-Freight-Tools-Recalls-Chainsaws-Due-to-Serious--Injury-Hazard

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

MrPete posted:

The stock blade is pretty good, have used it for plywood, mdf and hardwood. With the hardwood I just took itty bitty bites and even with the high tooth count it did OK. Infinity tools in the US has blades that will fit. Haven't bothered yet cos the stock one is still ticking along fine after 4 years. Just keep it clean and it cuts forever.

Doesn't it come with a stock 48t blade? I would totally pick up a different blade if I was doing a lot of hardwood rather than burning out the wrong blade that I could use for something else. It really only takes a few cuts with the wrong material to ruin a blade.

I love the bosch systems, that angle guide is sweet. I don't understand why you would need to square the end of a rip with that expensive of a track saw though

MrPete
May 17, 2007

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

Doesn't it come with a stock 48t blade? I would totally pick up a different blade if I was doing a lot of hardwood rather than burning out the wrong blade that I could use for something else. It really only takes a few cuts with the wrong material to ruin a blade.

I love the bosch systems, that angle guide is sweet. I don't understand why you would need to square the end of a rip with that expensive of a track saw though

If you were doing a lot of hardwood of course you'd go out and buy a 24t rip blade. I was just processing a stack of crows ash slabs I got given so as I said, itty bitty bites and it cut fine.

Why would I want to square the end of a rip? Because factory edges on sheet goods aren't straight or square all the time and so you burn a bit of the usable area to make sure you have a 90degree corner to work from.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

MrPete posted:

If you were doing a lot of hardwood of course you'd go out and buy a 24t rip blade. I was just processing a stack of crows ash slabs I got given so as I said, itty bitty bites and it cut fine.

Why would I want to square the end of a rip? Because factory edges on sheet goods aren't straight or square all the time and so you burn a bit of the usable area to make sure you have a 90degree corner to work from.

For sure, I remember your posts and you're clearly knowledgeable enough to speak on these things, the person buying their first track saw asking about blades who had trouble with their clamps blocking their miter saw housing might not :)

As for square cuts... framing square yea? I'm poor so maybe $100 for the system is worth it but imo not necessary, but if you have the $ hell yea go for it. Buy all the sexy tools you can afford. I also mixed up jaded burnout with someone from the woodworking thread asking about ripping plywood down for block printing which probably wouldn't need that perfect 90 whoops!

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
https://i.imgur.com/YnlWWe2.gifv

https://imgur.com/a/Lt616ok

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe
That is amazing, and my only wish is that there were sound so I could hear it. :3:

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

Oh man that is amazing, I really want to see some paper ripped with it

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
You are now aware that the blade is on backwards.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED
brb going to the er, the kickback on my lego table saw was really bad

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Harry Potter on Ice posted:

drat thats a sweet saw

Thanks! I've been liking my time with the bosch mitre saw so it seemed like a good idea to stick with it, even if the blades aren't compatible sizes.

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

be aware it doesn't have a riving knife

Good call. I'm aware of their purpose on table saws, how do you mitigate the risk with track saws?

MrPete posted:

For breaking down sheet goods I like to square the end after a rip, so would suggest getting the angle guide (FSNWAN) and an extra rail connector (FSNVEL) comes in handy if you for some reason need to attach both rails AND the square to do the long side.

Bosch Australia are loving useless at ever bringing in accessories for the tools they sell so I've always wanted one of the router guides (FSNGUIDE OFA) that goes on the track but haven't bothered to order one from the UK as yet.

Fortunately I am in the UK! I went for a 1600 and 800 rail plus a connector, I'll keep these in mind if I see a need.

MrPete posted:

Other than that, I think the clamps (FSNSZW) might come with the saw now? Otherwise they are OK but expensive for what they are really. Look around for clamps to fit mafell tracks too, that's the oem for bosch.

I hope so, because 30 quid for a couple of clamps, dang.

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

For sure, I remember your posts and you're clearly knowledgeable enough to speak on these things, the person buying their first track saw asking about blades who had trouble with their clamps blocking their miter saw housing might not :)

I am not an experience woodworker :( Case in point:

MrPete posted:

The stock blade is pretty good, have used it for plywood, mdf and hardwood. With the hardwood I just took itty bitty bites and even with the high tooth count it did OK. Infinity tools in the US has blades that will fit. Haven't bothered yet cos the stock one is still ticking along fine after 4 years. Just keep it clean and it cuts forever.

You're supposed to use fewer teeth on harder wood?

MrPete posted:

As for square cuts... framing square yea? I'm poor so maybe $100 for the system is worth it but imo not necessary, but if you have the $ hell yea go for it. Buy all the sexy tools you can afford. I also mixed up jaded burnout with someone from the woodworking thread asking about ripping plywood down for block printing which probably wouldn't need that perfect 90 whoops!

Right now I'll be using it for a) cutting down marine ply and b) trimming doors, i.e. replacing the things I'd use a jigsaw and mostly-steady hand for.

I do have a few relatively narrow (~150mm) boards that need trimming along the width too, but it feels like that's not the best place to start with a saw like this.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


MrPete posted:

Other than that, I think the clamps (FSNSZW) might come with the saw now? Otherwise they are OK but expensive for what they are really. Look around for clamps to fit mafell tracks too, that's the oem for bosch.

Confirmed no clamps included.

MrPete
May 17, 2007
At least you only have to pay 30quid (~55aud) for the clamps. They're $95 australian dollarydoos locally! And a few years ago were a lot more than that.

Jaded Burnout posted:

You're supposed to use fewer teeth on harder wood?
It's more that for ripping (going along the length of wood) you want fewer teeth and bigger gullets (the space between the teeth) to effectively pull the sawdust out of the cut.

Crosscutting you use more teeth for a finer finish.

Obviously the above is a very broad strokes look at it and meant for solid wood. For sheet goods you want lots of teeth to get a good finish on the cuts. I was abusing the stock blade by ripping (very) hard wood with it and got around that by taking itty bitty bites at a time and just doing lots of passes.

The lack of a riving knife on the saw is not _that_ big a deal for your stated use case. A tracksaw is used on a track (and I would argue that at least with the boosh you only use it on the track, it's a terrible hand held saw) and that limits its movement so to me, a lot of the issue just isn't there.

You're not going to be cutting slabs of wood where internal stress pinches the blade, keep the sheet goods and doors well supported with a cutting platform or bit of foam insulation and there shouldn't be any issue.

Do some research on el goog and come to your own conclusions of course. I'm just some guy on the internet after all :)

edit; have a read of this rockler page for more sawblade info. https://www.rockler.com/how-to/blades-101/

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Thanks for that, it’s all useful information.

I’m considering getting a decent table saw at some point. Not now, because I have lots of work still to do and no real use for it yet, but when I’m finally done with the renovation I’ll still have a bunch of custom fittings and furnishings to either buy or build, like stairs, kitchen, bed.

I’m still on the fence (haha) about it because it seems you have to put a quite a lot of money in to get a saw worthy of that work, and the mats aren’t cheap either. This is why I decided against it last time round.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

If anyone is looking for some decent battery powered yard equipment, Walmart has their 60V Snapper stuff on clearance. Picked up the 21” mower, trimmer, and blower for under 300 total. I was waiting for a deal on the Ryobi 40v equip but for the price this is nice. Each tool came with a battery so I have a 2, 2.5 and 4 ah battery and ordered another 4ah for 60 bucks

Used them this morning and very happy. I had corded electric equipment before and this gets the job done just as well.

Chillbro Baggins
Oct 8, 2004
Bad Angus! Bad!
I have the old-rear end version of this inherited from my grandfather. I want to restore it. Any tips, aside from "take a photo of the levers before drilling out the rivets"? Any ideas for paint? I'm thinking either OD with flat black latches and red trays or TF2 BLU Engineer color scheme.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
I've had Porter Cable 18v drill and impact driver for years now but the drill chuck mysteriously seized wide open today. I'll keep messing with the chuck to see if I can unstick it but in the meantime in thinking about replacing it.

Is it worth upgrading to a newer 20v system? It's been so long since I've tool shopped that there's a bewildering array of battery system options out there. The impact driver and a couple other parts of the kit still work fine, so I'd have two mismatched systems.

I'm a light-medium duty home user but have a standing policy to replace cheap tools with better ones when they break, so I'm not considering whatever lovely house brand Lowe's or Home Depot sell.

peepsalot
Apr 24, 2007

        PEEP THIS...
           BITCH!

oXDemosthenesXo posted:

I've had Porter Cable 18v drill and impact driver for years now but the drill chuck mysteriously seized wide open today. I'll keep messing with the chuck to see if I can unstick it but in the meantime in thinking about replacing it.

Is it worth upgrading to a newer 20v system? It's been so long since I've tool shopped that there's a bewildering array of battery system options out there. The impact driver and a couple other parts of the kit still work fine, so I'd have two mismatched systems.

I'm a light-medium duty home user but have a standing policy to replace cheap tools with better ones when they break, so I'm not considering whatever lovely house brand Lowe's or Home Depot sell.
Unless your previous drill was an older chemistry like NiCad, then the difference between Li-ion 18V and Li-ion 20V comes down to marketing.

A fully charged li-ion cell tops off at ~4.2V briefly, and the voltage drops as it discharges, down to less than 3.6V when nearly empty.
20V packs are 5 cell 18650 in series where the marketing considers each cell to be 4.0V.
18V packs are 5 cell 18650 in series where the marketing considers each cell to be 3.6V.

In reality all Lithium ion cells basically charge to the same peak and drop to the same cutoff voltage, just depends where on the discharge curve you arbitrarily designate as the "nominal" voltage.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




oXDemosthenesXo posted:

I've had Porter Cable 18v drill and impact driver for years now but the drill chuck mysteriously seized wide open today. I'll keep messing with the chuck to see if I can unstick it but in the meantime in thinking about replacing it.

Is it worth upgrading to a newer 20v system? It's been so long since I've tool shopped that there's a bewildering array of battery system options out there. The impact driver and a couple other parts of the kit still work fine, so I'd have two mismatched systems.

I'm a light-medium duty home user but have a standing policy to replace cheap tools with better ones when they break, so I'm not considering whatever lovely house brand Lowe's or Home Depot sell.

Ryobi’s commitment to keeping their batteries standard “forever” is a pretty big selling point to me as a small time DIYer and may be worth considering, if being able to keep the same batteries next time something dies matters to you

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I would wager that none of the big manufacturers have any desire to change battery standards anytime soon. They'll resort to tricks like Dewalt's 60V pack before they abandon an existing platform these days, especially when they're all trying to make their systems cover as wide a range of tools as possible.

Chillbro Baggins posted:

I have the old-rear end version of this inherited from my grandfather. I want to restore it. Any tips, aside from "take a photo of the levers before drilling out the rivets"? Any ideas for paint? I'm thinking either OD with flat black latches and red trays or TF2 BLU Engineer color scheme.

A, badass, B, perhaps watch some Hand Tool Rescue for inspiration?

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Speaking of rescue, I went to a small engines show and bought a vice from a man with a van full of tools



Samsonia Perfect 38 model J, £15. It had been taken apart and resembled incorrectly so the quick release kept jumping off the thread. Took it apart, wire brushed the crap out of it, greased it up and put it back together.

Problem now is I have no spare Imperial nuts and bolts, and I need to replace a couple. I need to find someone clearing their garage and buy their bucket of assorted fixings. That'll also take care of the missing bolt in my bandsaw.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


IOwnCalculus posted:

I would wager that none of the big manufacturers have any desire to change battery standards anytime soon. They'll resort to tricks like Dewalt's 60V pack before they abandon an existing platform these days, especially when they're all trying to make their systems cover as wide a range of tools as possible.

Except in the case where they're already supporting two standards, e.g. makita ditched their small magazine-style batteries for their smaller drills and impact drivers so they could consolidate them into their larger pack standard. Good in some ways, but the whole point of those smaller batteries is to keep the small drills light and well-balanced.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

peepsalot posted:

Unless your previous drill was an older chemistry like NiCad, then the difference between Li-ion 18V and Li-ion 20V comes down to marketing.

A fully charged li-ion cell tops off at ~4.2V briefly, and the voltage drops as it discharges, down to less than 3.6V when nearly empty.
20V packs are 5 cell 18650 in series where the marketing considers each cell to be 4.0V.
18V packs are 5 cell 18650 in series where the marketing considers each cell to be 3.6V.

In reality all Lithium ion cells basically charge to the same peak and drop to the same cutoff voltage, just depends where on the discharge curve you arbitrarily designate as the "nominal" voltage.

I know about the 18=20v marketing nonsense, but my existing set is the old NiCad stuff so it won't be compatible with whatever I replace it with.

I'm trying to puzzle out if any of the current tool lines seem dedicated to maintaining a battery standard before I commit to one.

It sounds like it's a crapshoot right now given how fast battery tech is changing.

The Gardenator
May 4, 2007


Yams Fan
I remember being able to jam a dewalt 9.6 volt battery into a 14 (or was it 18?) volt dewalt tool and it somehow working. It worked the other way as well.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

The Gardenator posted:

I remember being able to jam a dewalt 9.6 volt battery into a 14 (or was it 18?) volt dewalt tool and it somehow working. It worked the other way as well.

Lol

Super 3
Dec 31, 2007

Sometimes the powers you get are shit.
Looking at a track saw purchase and I'm torn between a Makita and a Festool. With a ~$200 diff between the two.

The only feature difference is the Festool has a riving knife the Makita does not. Besides that does anyone have any experience with either one? I'm leaning towards the Makita and spending the $200 diff on materials or more tools.

coathat
May 21, 2007

In case you haven’t seen festool is doing a $100 rebate program right now https://www.festoolproducts.com/power-tools/100-off-trade-up-promotion.html

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...

oXDemosthenesXo posted:

I know about the 18=20v marketing nonsense, but my existing set is the old NiCad stuff so it won't be compatible with whatever I replace it with.

I'm trying to puzzle out if any of the current tool lines seem dedicated to maintaining a battery standard before I commit to one.

It sounds like it's a crapshoot right now given how fast battery tech is changing.

They all seem pretty stable in my experience

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...

coathat posted:

In case you haven’t seen festool is doing a $100 rebate program right now https://www.festoolproducts.com/power-tools/100-off-trade-up-promotion.html

... do I want need a Festool track saw...

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED
Yes, no. What would you use it for

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


sawing tracks

Super 3
Dec 31, 2007

Sometimes the powers you get are shit.
It's a new tool of course its a need not a want. :rolleyes:

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bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

I got the festool tracksaw a couple weeks ago as my first festool ever(usually dewalt and makita). Rip cut 8 foot of 8/4 hard maple and did not miss my $200 at all.

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