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Yeah what he said. Volvospeed is almost exclusively FWD Swedespeed covers mostly newer cars but has old car forums as well, they're just not as busy. Turbobricks has the highest population of RWD posters with lots of expertise.
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Oct 15, 2018 23:15
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Is that expertise more than “you need to put a turbo in there, bro”?
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Oct 15, 2018 23:39
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Absolutely. You will get a lot of "search, noob" replies and ruthless trolling if you post stupid poo poo but yeah there are guys that can recite valve diameters for each year of the B20 engine and tell you exactly which cam to use with which turbo for max torque, etc. Knowing which years have the most durable motors and all that. There is a guy who knew exactly which 142 parking brake cable would work for putting the 1800E axle into my 122. It can be awesome there. Basically read a lot of threads and use google search with site:forums.turbobricks.com so that you find a lot of what you want without having to bug people. Then if you post a polite build thread you'll get a lot of good advice from people who've been there and done that. It can be fun over there when some douche comes in and is like "grandma gave me her 240 so I'm gonna make a sleeper and put a 2jz in it and make 900 hp what motor mounts should I use?" and the whole crew comes in and just unloads on them. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Oct 16, 2018 |
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Oct 16, 2018 00:18
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I learned everything I ever wanted to know and more about +T'ing my 245 from turbobricks (now I just have to finish collecting all the bits). It's a fantastic resource for old volvo tinkerers.
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Oct 16, 2018 00:26
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Turbobricks helped a lot on my Volvo Adventure
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Oct 16, 2018 01:02
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I replaced the fan unit on the S40 with a new one with a warranty, the new shroud feels a lot flimsier than the OEM one. I also don't think the fan module will last long, it's vented, it's got actual holes in it. So of course I butchered the old one open to see what's wrong, the answer is the power in wires have broken and corroded where they enter the seals. I'm fairly sure I can get it working again, the insides look brand new. Then I'll need a new waterproof enclosure for it and keep it tucked away for when this one inevitably breaks.
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Oct 16, 2018 23:08
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I just got a 2016 S60 T5 - the manual says it runs fine on 87 octane, but 91 is "recommended." This is a daily driver, not pushed for performance. Volvo forums seem to have some people insisting higher octane is needed for turbo engines, but they seem like typical car forum denizens and offer little justification. Is there any reason to use 91, or is 87 fine?
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Oct 17, 2018 01:38
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You'll be giving up a noticeable fuel economy edge and the engine will have pulled timing (and probably boost) by a huge margin. If a manufacturer recommends a grade of fuel they're not doing it "for no reason."
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Oct 17, 2018 03:41
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Zodijackylite posted:I just got a 2016 S60 T5 - the manual says it runs fine on 87 octane, but 91 is "recommended." This is a daily driver, not pushed for performance. Volvo forums seem to have some people insisting higher octane is needed for turbo engines, but they seem like typical car forum denizens and offer little justification. Is there any reason to use 91, or is 87 fine? I was asking the same question for my v60 and in the end decided to go with a higher octane. I have no access to 91. In NY fuel goes from 87 to 89 to 93. I just top it off with 93, then halfway through that tank I fill it with 89, and so on to maintain an effective 91 octane in the tank. Fuel economy has improved by a couple MPG, but it would still be more economical to use 87. I can’t tell if engine performance improved, I don’t push it too hard. I like knowing that the engine is using what Volvo recommends so I’ll keep using higher octane unless I’m broke someday.
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Oct 17, 2018 06:49
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I’ve gotten 91 here but it really chaps me when it’s 40+ cents more per gallon over 89. That being said it “feels” better on top tier premium to me anyways. I do like that if I end up in some town with only a single deli/smokes/beer/lotto that has “gas” or diesel I can still fill up if need be.
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Oct 17, 2018 10:49
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The ability to run on 87 is really only there for emergencies imo, and you shouldn't drive the car hard if you have to use 87. I lost my first whiteblock to lovely octane mixing (someone had borrowed it and put half a tank of 87 in without telling me) when I did a sustained WOT run shortly after a full tune-up. Now, while that was in an older 850, and the newer ME7+ cars do have more leeway in their timing curves, why artificially handicap your high performance turbo car with crappy fuel? May as well buy the NA if you want to have cheap fill ups. In other news, last night in a fit of insomnia I managed to track down the correct weatherstripping for the 240s. My 245 desperately needs all the door seals replaced but none of the usual Volvo parts houses seem to carry anything besides the trunk/hatch gasket. https://metrommp.com/index.cfm?f=type_detail&ModelNumber=LP%2040-K&Type=Door%20Top%20&%20Side%20Seals here's the seal, a little pricey at $3.80 per foot but what can you do.  Pic of the seal from one of my doors for comparison.
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Oct 17, 2018 12:31
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Terrible Robot posted:The ability to run on 87 is really only there for emergencies imo, and you shouldn't drive the car hard if you have to use 87. I lost my first whiteblock to lovely octane mixing (someone had borrowed it and put half a tank of 87 in without telling me) when I did a sustained WOT run shortly after a full tune-up. Modern cars have knock sensors that will adjust for the octane. It doesn't really matter anymore safety wise. You'll get better performance and *possibly* better fuel economy with 91 or 93 though. I use 87 in my MK7 GTI without any issue though since premium isn't required (only recommended). When it's $2-5 per fill up extra and I'm not driving the car hard (though I do hit on ramps spiritedly), it's not worth the cost to me.
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Oct 17, 2018 12:46
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Huh, I've only ever used 87 in my 2012 S60. Never even thought about regularly refueling w/ 89, 91, 93, etc.
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Oct 17, 2018 13:51
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The manual in my 14 S60 says to use a minimum of 87, but that it's recommended to use premium for "demanding driving", which I imagine is anything other than 55 in the highest gear. I've been putting 87 in it since my old subaru flat out required 93 and it says so in the manual, while Volvo explicitly says that 87 and above won't affect reliability. If I drove the Volvo to work every day or otherwise put more than a 5 or so thousand miles on it a year I might switch. So far it's been fine.
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Oct 17, 2018 14:21
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The manual makes it clear that it is mechanically safe to run it on 87. Here's the page, for reference:  Thanks for the replies. It seems that everyone who uses 87 has no problem with normal daily driving. Zodijackylite fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Oct 17, 2018 |
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Oct 17, 2018 14:36
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Premium all day every day. You never know when a kid in an Audi is gonna front and you have to put him down a quarter mile at a time. Tuna no crust.
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Oct 17, 2018 19:07
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Nobody comes here for the tuna. Realtalk: holy gently caress this single mass flywheel is glorious.
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Oct 17, 2018 22:47
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Boring failure pictures: Broken signal wire at the bottom of the picture  Inside, the components are all heatsinked to the case  Other side, looks like new inside. So if anyone has a fan module failure check the wires going in. Might not be easy to fix properly but you could probably limp a little further with judicious use of paperclips and cable ties. If I can get a suitable enclosure I'll re-terminate the wires and put it back together.
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Oct 17, 2018 23:07
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toplitzin posted:Nobody comes here for the tuna. You may have just talked me in to getting one. I was on the fence, thinking about doing the clutch stuff since I'll have the engine out anyway, and my C70 revs so much faster than the R that I actually have to re-learn rev matching when I switch between the cars.
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Oct 18, 2018 00:04
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There is low RPM chatter at idle and creeping, but other than that it's loving great. Ask Wrar and TR for more opinions. (tr didn't get to drive it nearly enough)
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Oct 18, 2018 00:29
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I only really got to dick with the take-up in the driveway but it was so much goddamned better than the stock DMF, like holy crap. I could actually modulate the clutch engagement and it was smooth, unlike the DMF which always felt either super mushy or grabby, no good medium. Between getting to play with that and getting to hear the IPD turbo-back on Toplitzin's R I am chomping at the drat bit to get my C70 back on the road (I already have a turbo-back waiting for it under my bed...)
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Oct 18, 2018 00:36
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I agree completely with that description. I already have a single mass in my C70 and it is much more interactive than the dual mass. I was just not sure if it would be worth the money in the R but sounds like it is. I also have the IPD exhaust and I get complements on it at every meet. I've been sick so I haven't been able to brave the cooler temps to get my plugs out yet, and I have plans tomorrow through Sunday, so that's when I'll probably get to the post mortem. In other Volvo news I think I finally got my daughter's V50 to stop burping out all the god drat coolant. All it took was a third reservoir cap. Totally poo poo design. Plastic under spring pressure on plastic to keep it sealed. And with the death of my R I did the V50 rear brakes, now it stops silently and confidently. It wasn't through the pad material but the lips on the rotors were so bad that they were contacting the pad base metal and sounded HORRIBLE. I felt guilty teaching the kid to drive on it like that.
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Oct 18, 2018 03:02
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Dual mass flywheels are a bad compromise in the name of low speed NVH, doubly so with a Volvo white block. The bite point is so much better defined with a single mass, and the slightly lower weight makes it even more eager without being obnoxious.
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Oct 18, 2018 04:23
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New motor arrived already, holy poo poo. I was figuring I had a couple more weeks, but this week just flew by. I guess I have to get all the peripheral poo poo on order and put the car in the garage to start stripping it.
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Oct 19, 2018 03:41
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Do you have any services or debugging of the motor pre-install? Might as well do the easy stuff.
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Oct 19, 2018 04:33
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Scheduled my Polestar upgrade for Nov. 2nd.
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Oct 21, 2018 05:50
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DOWyBdvKqA Has anyone done this tail light fix before? My 240's lights just got fixed, but maybe I should do it as a preventative measure?
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Oct 21, 2018 20:45
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Looks valid and it's free, I would.
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Oct 22, 2018 03:18
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So the loving scream is back after extended driving. Pulled off the highway after about two hours of driving for breakfast, got the 02/driveshaft wail as I came up the off ramp. Did it again as I slowed for a traffic light or two, then went away. Came back a couple hours later as we got into the mountains, but this time at around 55. But then went away. Shop says there is a 1/4" of gap when I brought it in last time it made the wail after the clutch job. I wonder if it's thermal expansion because of the Jett hot? I'm out if ideas outside of mounting a GoPro under the body or something else equally stupid. Otherwise something is shifting and I don't know what. In good news the exhaust sounds glorious, there there is a tunnel here that is exactly 2nd gear long. I'll post a video if I ever get a good recording. Edit: Are the side air vents pop out replacements? My passenger side broke and can't be easily aimed anymore. If it's an easy pop of pop in great, if it's dash related, fml. toplitzin fucked around with this message at 13:16 on Oct 28, 2018 |
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Oct 28, 2018 13:07
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Exhaust absolutely moves under heat. My exhaust tips are sticking out about 3/4" farther when hot. Put it on a lift while hot and look for rub marks. It was originally called "rain squeal" because water on one side of the exhaust would make it expand in a way that curved it in to the driveshaft. The vents do pop out, not sure if they're really meant to but I did it on my first V70 while looking for screws to remove the dash:  That side panel just comes off by hand if you want to get in there and look. I'd start by pulling one at the junkyard, that way if you break it you don't have to buy it. And if you don't have them yet, get a set of bone tools. They don't damage dashboards like screwdrivers do when prying. I got these, 6 bucks. https://smile.amazon.com/KINGLAKE-Panel-Removal-Radio-Installer/dp/B00HNMLQAG/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1540734276&sr=8-9&keywords=trim+tools LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Oct 28, 2018 |
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Oct 28, 2018 14:39
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It one hundred percent has a ring where they rub.  Just p2 things I guess. Thanks! LloydDobler posted:Exhaust absolutely moves under heat. My exhaust tips are sticking out about 3/4" farther when hot. It was rainy AF Friday too. toplitzin fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Oct 28, 2018 |
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Oct 28, 2018 17:42
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For P2 Volvos, is the OEM battery considerably better or should most third-party ones be fine? Mine is definitely weak since the car had trouble starting after ~45mins with systems on, and I'm sure it'll only get worse when it gets cold.
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Oct 28, 2018 21:55
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I swapped mine for a Costco one last month after it died twice. Pretty happy with it. I believe it's the wagon size, but it's just a different hole in the trunk.
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Oct 28, 2018 22:33
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Animal posted:Thanks for the info, I'll keep an eye out on those things and get everything fix in the warranty period. And maybe install the sway bar. Did you notice any added ride stiffness when going off road after installing it? Roof rack doesn’t really seem to affect it. I can’t keep my foot out the the skinny petal, so I get somewhere around 25-26 highway, and 14-16 in DC. Also put premium in it, it can run on 87, but I’ve noticed fuel economy is worse if you do. The roof box is only on there when I travel, so I haven’t really noticed a difference. The roof rack is the Volvo accessory one—the aero blade one. It’s super nice, and apparently made by Thule, but it’s half the price of the Thule branded one. I recommend it, it really doesn’t whistle. The sway bar didn’t really do much to the off road ride, but definitely got rid of a bunch of the understeer on the pavement. The R design front strut top bar did stop the front of the car from flexing so much when off-roading. It doesn’t feel like the windshield is gonna twist anymore. That would be the other thing that would recommend. I will say that when I drove mine into NYC the ride quality was still superb. And the parking sensors/back up cam made parking stupid easy.
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Oct 30, 2018 04:45
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 I did it. It's great. I am going to get in trouble with this car.
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Nov 3, 2018 23:20
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mikerock posted:I am going to get in trouble with this car. Totally worth it.
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Nov 5, 2018 05:13
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Has anyone done one of those UV dye kit's to locate an oil leak in their vehicle? Did it work out well for you?
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Nov 5, 2018 18:49
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The UV trace stuff works good, I've never used it but shops I've gone to have. My buddy who runs a shop just puts the car on a lift, sprays the poo poo out of it with solvent, wipes it off and lets it dry, and then a week later checks the car again. Follow the oil forward, because wind blows it back. The most forward spot with oil on it, and the areas above that, are where the leak is coming from. Usually good enough to pinpoint a leak.
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Nov 6, 2018 01:23
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That's good to hear. I was considering degreasing the engine and wiping it down, but spraying a bunch of solvent will probably help also. I didn't know those tips about looking forward for oil; that really helps thanks. I think the UV stuff is going to work best; the leak itself must be pretty small because there's only a dime-size drop or two of oil on the floor every morning. At least I hope its small.
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Nov 6, 2018 03:40
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| # ? May 16, 2024 13:35 |
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 AI Secret Santa is up!
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Nov 6, 2018 14:31
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