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^^ that's a nice looking bike you got going there. Almost completed the assembly on this one - just waiting on some alclad chrome to turn up before I can fit the exhausts, rear shock absorbers and a bunch of engine bits. I'm poo poo at photos, unfortunately.  It's not a bad kit by any means, but it's got a few ... issues. The biggest gripe is the pre-chromed parts. The metallic layer stripped easily enough with oven cleaner, but the lacquer beneath some of the parts just will not budge. I've tried everything from bleach to brake fluid, absolutely no joy. In the end I wound up roughing the surfaces up with sandpaper before painting (they wouldn't even glue without a bit of violence).
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Oct 18, 2018 21:04
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Ugh! I broke the shoulder joint trying to put it back in after gloss Cote. It just sheared off under moderate pressure. Now I gotta go buy another Stromtrooper just to get the shoulder joint. (And the shoulder straps of the white chest piece snapped too. Dang this certainly is a rabbit hole. Bought 19 dollar model. Bought model snipping/sanding/tweezer kit Bought tamiya weathering Bought micro set micro sol Bought gloss cote Bought flat cote Bought Vallejo washes and paint brushes Bought other tamiya weathering ... Bought second model. [EDit] I’m not really mad about anything...
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Oct 19, 2018 19:19
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Feenix posted:Ugh! I broke the shoulder joint trying to put it back in after gloss Cote. It just sheared off under moderate pressure. Now I gotta go buy another Stromtrooper just to get the shoulder joint. (And the shoulder straps of the white chest piece snapped too. Not sure what the part looks like, but that joint can probably be repaired with proper plastic cement and/or pinning it. Both options are far cheaper than another kit.
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Oct 19, 2018 19:40
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also most if not all model companies will let you buy a replacement part on the condition you buy the whole sprue its located on
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Oct 19, 2018 19:47
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Feenix posted:Dang this certainly is a rabbit hole. Oh my sweet summer modeler.
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Oct 19, 2018 19:57
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Raskolnikov38 posted:also most if not all model companies will let you buy a replacement part on the condition you buy the whole sprue its located on Good to know but I would have needed 2/3 sprues so it may have been moot plus I’m eager and impatient. I’ll just do another model with a glued arm down the road.
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Oct 19, 2018 20:13
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You guys like AFV's right?Fish and Chimps posted:Another AFV finished. This time an M10C, 15mm Battlefront plastic. I love open topped vehicles. The exposed crew gives the miniature a lot of life. I actually learned a whole lot from this guy: https://youtu.be/PL-NsLi75GI Not New techniques, but rather how I can apply simple, known techniques to tanks, and make them less daunting to make look passable, without an airbrush and stuff.
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Oct 19, 2018 22:46
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Oh my sweet summer modeler. Yep. As someone who's in the midst of a move, I'm kind of embarrassed at how much modeling crap I've accumulated over the last 5 years. I will now have an entire room at the house dedicated to modeling. And it's gonna be awesome. My stuff has been in storage for about a month now, but I went thru a major funk for a while. The last thing I finished was my 1/144 USS Chevalier back in July. I'm itching to get my modeling room set up and get back into things.
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Oct 19, 2018 23:18
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Yep, so much accumulated here too. Plus I started to get interested in pyrography recently , so I've added more to the collection with a few hundred bucks in wood-burning supplies and equipment. I'm in a condo too, so not a lot of space. Someone recently who visited my place said it was more like visiting an art-studio/workshop than it was a living space.
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Oct 19, 2018 23:24
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Gewehr 43 posted:Yep. As someone who's in the midst of a move, I'm kind of embarrassed at how much modeling crap I've accumulated over the last 5 years. I will now have an entire room at the house dedicated to modeling. And it's gonna be awesome. My stuff has been in storage for about a month now, but I went thru a major funk for a while. The last thing I finished was my 1/144 USS Chevalier back in July. I'm itching to get my modeling room set up and get back into things. I had a staggering amount of crap accumulated from my days doing wargamining miniatures that I had to leave at my parent's place out east. Since getting into the wooden ships thing, I've found that I can get by with a lot less in the way of specialized tools and whatnot and can fit everything into an ammo can. Bloody Hedgehog posted:Yep, so much accumulated here too. My wife sews and does metal smithing (we made our wedding rings together), and I have a table for working on my boats and which will probably be repurposed into reloading in a little while too. It's tricky in a condo; it is my dream some day to have a garage where I can do all this stuff with wild abandon and no cares for a mess. Fearless fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Oct 19, 2018 |
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Oct 19, 2018 23:26
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And here it is, you nerds!!! I went a little hard on the wash but I thought I could wet qtip it off a bit after it dried just a touch but I guess it REALLY dried and yeah, no. That said, for my first, well, ANYTHING model related, I think it’s pretty not terrible!
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Oct 19, 2018 23:48
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You can get some thinner for the wash and wipe it off. I rarely manage to start wiping off the wash at just the right time to get the right amount of it off.
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Oct 20, 2018 02:48
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Ensign Expendable posted:You can get some thinner for the wash and wipe it off. I rarely manage to start wiping off the wash at just the right time to get the right amount of it off. Is thinner gonna gently caress the gloss cote under? Or should I even care given that whatever I don’t wipe off will still have cote under it and adhere?
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Oct 20, 2018 03:06
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You used acrylic washes right? The vallejo stuff? Which gloss coat did you end up using?
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Oct 20, 2018 03:09
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Symetrique posted:You used acrylic washes right? The vallejo stuff? Which gloss coat did you end up using? Yeah Acrylic. Testor’s 1261
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Oct 20, 2018 03:32
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Feenix posted:Yeah Acrylic. You might be ok if you use vallejo's thinner or water on a qtip to wipe the excess off. Just don't use alcohol.
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Oct 20, 2018 03:34
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Symetrique posted:You might be ok if you use vallejo's thinner or water on a qtip to wipe the excess off. Just don't use alcohol. The water on qTip did not work at all. I’ll try something a hair stronger, maybe thinner.
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Oct 20, 2018 03:36
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As long as you use thinner that doesn't dissolve your gloss coat you're good. I use acrylic gloss and oil/odourless turpentoid wash. I can't vouch for full strength mineral spirits, but the odourless stuff is so weak it doesn't harm the gloss coat at all.
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Oct 20, 2018 03:37
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Speaking of washes, I just finished putting the wash on this guy. I think the photos ended up illustrating the huge difference that an oil dot filter and then a wash make. Also how you can make a sweet holder for your turret out of clothespins.  
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Oct 20, 2018 03:49
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5 clothespins per KV-2
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Oct 20, 2018 03:52
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Ensign Expendable posted:As long as you use thinner that doesn't dissolve your gloss coat you're good. I use acrylic gloss and oil/odourless turpentoid wash. I can't vouch for full strength mineral spirits, but the odourless stuff is so weak it doesn't harm the gloss coat at all. Turpenoid won't affect Future Floor Wax that has dried for 24+ hours. Will almost certainly be fine for Testors.
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Oct 20, 2018 04:16
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Anyone else going to the Scale Model Challenge in Eindhoven today? http://www.scalemodelchallenge.com E; I managed to find the Ryefield Panther G with interior and clear hull for only €30! Thats me sorted for at least a year  Im wondering what glue is best to use to attach regular styrene parts to the clear stuff... both regular and CA glue will cloud it. Any ideas? Molentik fucked around with this message at 13:28 on Oct 20, 2018 |
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Oct 20, 2018 07:39
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Molentik posted:Anyone else going to the Scale Model Challenge in Eindhoven today? Epoxy 2-component glue. It glues everything, although sometimes too well. It also has a faint horrible odour. Ensign Expendable posted:Speaking of washes, I just finished putting the wash on this guy. I think the photos ended up illustrating the huge difference that an oil dot filter and then a wash make. Also how you can make a sweet holder for your turret out of clothespins. Is that the Trumpeter KV-2, Ensign? I've got it in my stash and I've been thinking of starting it. That green is looking real good! Feenix posted:And here it is, you nerds!!! Good Stormie! Try a Q-tip dampened in Vallejo Airbrush Thinner. It is a gentle solvent and you'll be able to control it easily.
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Oct 20, 2018 14:47
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Maybe a stupid paint-related question, but I have to ask it. I normally use Revell enamel paints (with a brush), but their assortment is a bit lacking once you move away from their own kits. Some also require mixing paints which is annoying on larger kits, especially because I don't always have time to keep working on a kit and the mix tends to dry out. Is there any risk in mixing or combining paints from various manufacturers provided I stick to just using enamel paints? Or would it be safer to mask off areas completely to prevent them from touching? I picked up some Humbrol enamels to fill in some gaps, and today picked up this gunmetal color for a Zvezda kit I'm working on as well as other stuff I'll be building in the future. So far the Humbrol and Revell paints don't seem to have any problems with eachother.
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Oct 20, 2018 15:08
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Smoke posted:Maybe a stupid paint-related question, but I have to ask it. I normally use Revell enamel paints (with a brush), but their assortment is a bit lacking once you move away from their own kits. Some also require mixing paints which is annoying on larger kits, especially because I don't always have time to keep working on a kit and the mix tends to dry out. Mixing different enamals should be fine. Just give it a try on a spare piece of plastic and see how it turns out. The tricky part comes with mixing acrylics: water-based ones (like Revell Aqua Color) don't mix with lacquer based ones (like the Tamiya acrylics).
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Oct 20, 2018 16:03
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That's good to know, I was a bit worried due to the completely different paint smells. I'm already staying away from Revell Aqua Color due to its reaction with Revell enamel paint (Got some of the aqua color with a kit in one of those model sets and gave it a try). The main issue/risk would be different layers of paints reacting with eachother, but I tend to leave plenty of time for curing in between. This should nicely expand the amount of colors available to me, as the hobby stores around here don't always have a lot of options available. Hell, I had to check five different places just to find a specific Humbrol color.
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Oct 20, 2018 16:30
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Sparq posted:Is that the Trumpeter KV-2, Ensign? I've got it in my stash and I've been thinking of starting it. That green is looking real good! It's a Zvezda kit. I did get a PE set for the Trumpeter kit, but this is the first time I've seen a PE set be woefully incompatible. The Trumpeter tank is longer and narrower, so the toolboxes and grilles don't fit at all.
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Oct 20, 2018 16:37
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Molentik posted:Anyone else going to the Scale Model Challenge in Eindhoven today? Regular white glue (PVA) in sparing amounts works well and can be broken apart with minimal damage to the pieces if need be.
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Oct 20, 2018 18:39
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Will the Testors cement in the blue tube fog up clear parts?
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Oct 20, 2018 19:14
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FrozenVent posted:Will the Testors cement in the blue tube fog up clear parts? if it does, I remember people saying you can make clear parts like aircraft canopies or car windows appear clear again by dipping them in future and letting it dry.
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Oct 20, 2018 19:51
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Seconding white glue for clear parts. I use Elmer's Glue-All myself for windshields and windows and such on cars. Speaking of which, one more race car for the case.    
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Oct 20, 2018 21:20
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Speaking of which, one more race car for the case.
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Oct 21, 2018 00:57
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Cartoon posted:OK the model was nice but the 'case' knocked it clear out of the park. Thanks dude! I put the garage together a while back. Some scratchbuilt stuff, some leftover engines, walls are just printed on paper and glued up. Little more done on the bike. Masking didn't go super well and I had some blue sneak under the tape onto the white. Should have thrown down a layer of the pearl before I shot the blue. Bah. Steps 21 and 22 done.  
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Oct 24, 2018 02:13
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A while ago my airbrush began feeding a little poorly and clogging a lot. I figured I wasn't thinning the paint well enough or something like that, plus it wasn't a great airbrush to begin with. This was tolerable until today, when the usual difficulties turned into the airbrush just spitting a fine mist out and the paint frothing up in the cup despite no visible blockage. None of the tricks suggested here previously like oiling up the needle and applying wax to the threads worked. Then I tried a .66 mm nozzle and the brush worked fine. Upon attempting to replace the .38 mm nozzle, I discovered that I somehow had my .25 mm cap on, but the .38 mm nozzle and needle. I don't know what's more surprising, that the airbrush worked at all or that I managed to paint two entire models since I last played with my needles and didn't notice. At least the end result still looks pretty okay. 
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Oct 24, 2018 05:46
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Good afternoon, gents. I just moved into a new house and am looking to set up my hobby room, but I foresee a problem with venting for airbrushing. Here's a shot of my room this morning. In the past, I just used an in-window fan to pull air out of the room. It worked well because the window was at the same height as the desk and as soon as I'd turn on the fan, the room was fume-free. Great! Now, I have two problems. First, the window sits high above my work desk. Secondly, the windows crank open vertically - hinged on the outboard side. I could break out my dilapidated portable spray booth and run a vent line up to the window, but I'd have to remove the screen and then try to pinch the vent line with the window crank. There'd be a huge air gap and it's about to get Michigan-cold for winter. Replacing the window with a traditional upward-open unit isn't an option. Window dimensions are ~14.5" x 32.75" per side. For size and simplicity's sake, I'd prefer not to use my portable spray booth. So, here I am. A great new hobby room waiting for me, but with a minor twist. Any thoughts on what to do?
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Oct 24, 2018 17:23
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Gewehr 43 posted:Good afternoon, gents. I just moved into a new house and am looking to set up my hobby room, but I foresee a problem with venting for airbrushing. Here's a shot of my room this morning. I had a problem like this when I lived in my old apartment. What I wound up doing was building a disposable airbrush booth out of cardboard boxes with an old box fan in the back pushing air into a similarly sized furnace filter. I think the whole setup cost less than $20; though I had to replace the filter every few months once it clogged up.
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Oct 24, 2018 17:48
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Gewehr 43 posted:Good afternoon, gents. I just moved into a new house and am looking to set up my hobby room, but I foresee a problem with venting for airbrushing. Here's a shot of my room this morning. This might be overkill for your needs, but you reminded me of this DIY coroplast heat exchange ventilator I saw on youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akkhDjxwIu0 Not sure how you'd vent out that window though outside of putting together a full-frame cover.
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Oct 24, 2018 18:29
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And construction on the bike is done. Steps 23, 24, and 25.    Awful naked for a race bike, eh? Now it's time for the fun part...
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Oct 25, 2018 00:31
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Oh good. It didn't seem shiny enough. I assume there's another gloss coat to go on?
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Oct 25, 2018 00:35
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Watching episode 2 of The Great Model Railway Challenge, and at the 6 minute mark it becomes extremely obvious why the "model train ghetto" concept exists... gently caress sake dude.
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Oct 25, 2018 01:39
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