|
That definitely looks like a drive in the process of progressively corrupting the media, and that's more reallocated sectors than I've ever seen before!  The power cycles to hours suggests that drive was in a system that was on most of the time, contrasted with mine that had more cycles and far fewer hours (and as I wrote, died from a different cause.)
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 23:10
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 13:23 |
|
|
Just to chime in with another anecdote relating to that drive model: my wife's machine had one in it, it started to show smart errors, so I cloned the contents to another one I had spare of the exact same model, which had no errors. A few days later, it simply vanished from an os and bios perspective, and only made clicking sounds. That's the drive without smart errors. I then I bought a new drive and restored the contents from a backup. Basically, that particular model of Seagate 3TB drive can't be trusted for poo poo. I also have a third example of that drive where all i/o locks up when you fill the drive to a certain point. I have a big ol' stack of hosed drives at home.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2018 10:17
|
|
|
I want to connect a monitor to a HDMI port. The monitor has DVI and DP(and VGA). DVI to HDMI cable is half the price of DP to HDMI. Does it matter any?
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2018 02:09
|
|
|
i just got one today to do HDMI out to DVI in works like a charm 
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2018 02:10
|
|
|
Wooper posted:I want to connect a monitor to a HDMI port. The monitor has DVI and DP(and VGA). DVI to HDMI cable is half the price of DP to HDMI. Definitely use DVI to HDMI. Displayport will need some kind of convert chip that won't work in the direction you're trying to use (it's for DP output to HDMI input).
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2018 02:14
|
|
|
Wooper posted:I want to connect a monitor to a HDMI port. The monitor has DVI and DP(and VGA). DVI to HDMI cable is half the price of DP to HDMI. DVI and HDMI are essentially the same standard with different connections, so the cable just has to change the pinout from one end to the other. DP is a completely different standard and requires an active conversion from one to the other (the cable usually has an ASIC chip embedded that does the conversion) which is why DP to DVI/HDMI are one-way cables. And more expensive. The TL;DR is DP supports higher resolutions/framerates than DVI/HDMI, but if you begin with DVI you aren't going to gain anything by adapting to DP. Geoj fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Oct 21, 2018 |
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2018 02:27
|
|
|
the only issue is that eventually DVI will go away and you’ll be stuck with just DP (and maybe HDMI) a single cable will probably not matter but I’d probably not bet on a hundred dvi to hdmi cables to get their full value On the other hand, you can get a dp to dvi adapter at that point anyway
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2018 03:17
|
|
|
I believe I have servers that have vga and dp but no dvi or hdmi, it was a wake up call when I realized that I had to take the plunge
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2018 03:19
|
|
|
the cable i got was same day delivery for $6.99 free shipping idk if you can really go wrong
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2018 03:19
|
|
|
Wooper posted:I want to connect a monitor to a HDMI port. The monitor has DVI and DP(and VGA). DVI to HDMI cable is half the price of DP to HDMI. dvi to hdmi is passive, that's why it's so cheap
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2018 11:25
|
|
|
I'm designing a bit of a funky build How can I tell if something like this power supply would accommodate a video card on the order of say, a GTX 1060 6gb? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078X1TQGK/ref=psdc_1161760_t2_B00F0ZPXU2?th=1 I might end up with a 1050ti low profile which should negate the question entirely but I haven't decided yet what I'm doing
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2018 16:31
|
|
|
Statutory Ape posted:I'm designing a bit of a funky build quote:2x PCIE 6+2 pin for VGA card
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2018 17:09
|
|
|
Statutory Ape posted:I'm designing a bit of a funky build I have a SFF PC with a very similar if not identical FSP 500 W PSU and it powers a 1070 just fine. Total system draw under load is probably in the 200-300 W range (I just have to remember to take a peek at the UPS' display or the software while gaming.) You can look up specs to see a GPU's nominal power draw, or see reviews for closer to real-world numbers, but very broadly: - The PCIe slot itself can deliver up to 75 W - A 6-pin connector is rated for 75 W - An 8-pin connector is rated for up to 150 W So depending on the card's auxiliary power connector requirements you could estimate the total power requirement (which would top out at 375 W for a card with 2x8-pin connectors,) but just note that in practice it's likely to draw considerably less (especially for nVidia, especially for Pascal, however AMD Vega/Polaris tend to be considerably less efficient.) The 1060 IIRC is rated for 150 W or something like that; I'm not going to look it up because of everything I wrote above; you should be more than fine with that PSU.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2018 22:44
|
|
|
What kind of CPU did you pair with the 1070? I have zero need for this computer, I'm just doing it to make my own PC case out of an ammo can sounds like a fun waste of time. Will probably sell it when I'm done. I was thinking either an 8100 or 8300 with the GTX 1060 would be a good pairing
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2018 23:00
|
|
|
I upgraded my gaming PC from 2013! It has a 3770k, and originally had a 660 Ti. I have zero need for a newer CPU; this one handles all my gaming and even VR needs. Since you're building a project/experimental PC, you could go the route of buying a prebuilt, transplanting the relevant components and upgrading the rest, then selling whatever you don't need. I did a prebuilt-upgraded-to-gaming-PC thing by throwing in a 1050 Ti; I like that GPU because it's the fastest one available that doesn't need an external power connector (although some are made that require a 6-pin so you should avoid those) and can basically be dropped in any old office PC. In your case, I guess you could just look for a deal on any decent GPU since you're more or less building it for resale sooner rather than later.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2018 05:44
|
|
|
I don't hate that prebuilt idea, mainly because it would give me spare parts to keep playing with. When I built that SFF gamer out of a refurb dell, part of the reason I was able to do it so cheaply was, aside from the 50% off coupon for dell refurbs, spare parts I had kicking around. What sort of prebuilt would you keep an eye out for in this case? Something on woot or whatever?
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2018 09:27
|
|
|
Woot, eBay, etc. It depends which thing you're doing though: if you're going to part it out immediately, then you're just looking for parts you can use. If you want to build up a gaming system as cheaply and simply as possible, you'd generally look for the off-lease former business machines. They generally tend to be full-sized* with ~300 W PSUs so all you have to do is drop in a GPU, and perhaps some more RAM and/or a SSD upgrade if necessary. *There are some SFF systems with LP/half-height PCI slots, which complicate GPU availability, and there are also micro systems that can't accept any PCIe expansion cards. Something like this could take a GPU and SSD and be good to go. That's a new-ish system though, and you can find the aforementioned former business PCs on eBay or Newegg for like $200-300. I got an Ivy Bridge Shuttle XPC for around that amount and have enjoyed upgrading & tinkering with it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2018 10:13
|
|
|
Is there a good program that helps me determine harddrive health? I feel like one of my drives are failing and would like a program that helps me intuitively see if that's the case. Would also be great if the program shows what the harddrive is (as opposed to just a model number) so I can look on my Amazon order history and see how old the thing is. It has been getting very slow lately, and if I open up a folder, it can take ages to show the files.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2018 05:52
|
|
|
You want CrystalDiskInfo. For spinny disks you'll likely just get the model #, but it's easy enough to slap that into Google.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2018 07:57
|
|
|
There is no reliable way to see disk health. A lot of time the SMART info only kicks in when it is already too late or nearly so. If you feel like your disk is dying, make sure it is backed up. If it is not backed up, do so immediately. Also try a new SATA cable.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2018 08:41
|
|
|
Try discovery.io.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2018 08:44
|
|
|
Qubee posted:Is there a good program that helps me determine harddrive health? I feel like one of my drives are failing and would like a program that helps me intuitively see if that's the case. Would also be great if the program shows what the harddrive is (as opposed to just a model number) so I can look on my Amazon order history and see how old the thing is. Give HD Sentinel a try. It looks at the various SMART parameters and gives you an educated interpretation (rather than just hex values for everything and no guidance.) Note that while more negative SMART results can suggest an increased likelihood of drive failure, drives can certainly fail without any warnings. Your slow drive could suggest something as benign as heavy file fragmentation or something far more serious like read errors due to failing media (the platters.) If the latter's the case, then you'll need to make sure everything important is backed up ASAP (or better yet, have a robust backup plan in place already!)
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2018 02:08
|
|
|
My school bought dozen or so Califone DS-8VT headsets to use with our English Language Learner students. Turns out their TRRS plugs are garbage and in the 5 months we've been using them I've had to replace 15 cables at $8.50 a pop thanks to students breaking the tips of them off in their devices. Now I want to roll my own using monoprice TRRS cables, but there's a problem. The headset end uses an...uncommon connector. The figure-8 cable is terminated with a standard TRRS on one end, but the other end is a 6p6c RJ11 plug with a 'long body'. I can't find these drat things anywhere except on Aliexpress; none of the others I've found can confirm they're actually long (they need to be about an inch long, not the usual half-inch of a RJ11). There might be one on Amazon, but I don't want to pay $25 for 25 of them, especially if I can't determine they're actually longbody plugs. Does anyone know of a good place to actually get them? I'm not opposed to getting them off Aliexpress, but I'd like someplace reasonably local (US). The other option is put new TRRS plugs on the cables, but my soldering skills are shaky at best and the available connectors don't have great reviews.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 00:56
|
|
|
I’ve just bought a new Surface Pro with the aim of having it replace my laptop and iPad, and I’ve got a few questions. I’ve got the keyboard cover but no pen: Using it as a tablet I’d like to use multi-touch gestures like I would on an iPad, eg three fingers swipe up to get a list of open windows to switch to. But I can’t seem to make it work. Is it possible? How? The brightness seems to be set to automatic. But when using it it quite often just seems to gradually, but obviously, tick up or down in brightness, and then back again. Is that normal and should I just turn auto off? Or any tips on how to improve it? Are there any tips / guides anywhere on any surface-specific settings I should be adjusting to get the best out of it? And finally, is there a general guide anywhere on how best to set windows 10 up in terms of things like privacy settings etc? I’m not too worried about actual privacy but would like to turn off anything unnecessary that would save battery. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 08:20
|
|
|
Can't help with any of those questions, but I would highly suggest returning it. I bought a Surface Pro 4 and it doesn't excel at being a laptop nor a tablet, it's lacklustre in both. I splashed out and got the fancy one that could supposedly handle engineering CAD software, but it chugs like no one's business and is next to useless, and it has been a paperweight ever since I bought it. Tried selling it off as well, but no luck. It has a tonne of issues, the most glaring one being the constant MS Update utilizing almost all the CPU in the background constantly, and within 5 minutes of being turned on, the fans spin to an insane level and the thing heats up ridiculously. If I could go back in time, I'd skip on it, and instead put the ~£1300 into a medium laptop and a tablet separately, and still would have had lots of change to spare. caveat: this was a Surface Pro 4 right when they came out back in 2015 or something. Or maybe I was unlucky and got a dud? I just bought a new SSD and would like to format it and allocate the space to my main C drive (which is also an SSD). Is there an easy way to do this without formatting my C drive? I'd prefer just having all the space on one SSD drive but I'm not sure if it's possible without formatting a preexisting SSD to combine them.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 14:15
|
|
|
W/o 3rd party programs, Windows doesn't support multi-touch on a touchscreen. There are apps like TouchMe that will allow you to create gestures, but it won't feel as good as an iPad and once the free trial is over you'll have to pay up. You can swipe in from the left edge of the screen (if holding it like a tablet, use your left thumb) to show all open programs, and swipe in from the right edge (right thumb) to view the action center (notifications, settings, brightness, toggle tablet mode) I turned off the auto-brightness because I got tired of it adjusting on me like that. Since all it takes to manually adjust it is to pull up the action center and tap the brightness button, I don't find it that much of a loss. For battery life, I found https://surfacetip.com/ultimate-tips-max-surface-pro-4-battery-life/ to be pretty helpful, and it should hold up for the latest model. Just be aware that turning off turbo boost in the name of battery life really tanks the performance. e. If you bought it direct from Microsoft, I strongly recommend getting the extended warranty - you have 45 days after purchasing the device to get it. It is an extremely unfriendly device to service, and the QC (at least for the SP4) is not great. I've had to swap out my device twice due to hardware issues. Qubee posted:
The SP4 had a bunch of firmware issues that were eventually ironed out, but its still a 15w CPU in a large tablet form-factor. The newest models come with quad core CPUs which should help out with productivity applications. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Nov 1, 2018 |
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 16:01
|
|
|
the experience I had with the SP4 has scared me off of all laptop / tablet hybrids. I feel like I spent a chunk of money on the novelty of it and got a subpar product.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 17:23
|
|
|
Can anyone recommend some quality 120mm fans that don't have the RBG LED crap? Is there a significant quality difference in the $7 and $25 fans? I'm looking to replace two intake, one exhaust on my midtower lan-li case, and the fan in the middle of my old tuniq tower extreme CPU cooler.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 17:57
|
|
|
Thanks both. Understand your concerns but got a decent deal so paid £750 for a pro 6 with type cover, so I’m not going to get a good laptop + tablet at that price. I don’t need it for anything heavy duty so I think it should be fine power wise. I can see why it wouldn’t suit you though. I’m quite surprised windows doesn’t support multi touch gestures, but good to know I’m not going crazy for not finding them and I’m sure I’ll get used to it. And I’ll take a look at those battery tips. I bought it from John Lewis and so get a 2 year warranty as standard, hopefully that will do me well enough...
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 18:16
|
|
|
I should clarify that Windows doesn't support touchscreen multi-touch gestures. Touchpad multi-touch gestures are supported, so when you're using it in laptop mode you can use these finger combos and change them up under Settings > Devices> Touchpad.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 18:28
|
|
|
fargom posted:Can anyone recommend some quality 120mm fans that don't have the RBG LED crap? Is there a significant quality difference in the $7 and $25 fans? I'm looking to replace two intake, one exhaust on my midtower lan-li case, and the fan in the middle of my old tuniq tower extreme CPU cooler. I used exclusively noctua fans in my last build and loving love them. I hadn't used them before but my purchase was validated the moment I saw the packaging (google image search it, its nice) and then of course the performance is great.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 19:34
|
|
|
noctua fans are great but I can't wrap my head around how those plastic holding thingies work. I can never get enough force to properly pull them through the fan mount holes, so I end up having to use screws that kinda gently caress the metalwork on my case.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 19:41
|
|
|
Qubee posted:noctua fans are great but I can't wrap my head around how those plastic holding thingies work. I can never get enough force to properly pull them through the fan mount holes, so I end up having to use screws that kinda gently caress the metalwork on my case. i used the plastic things in a couple of places where it made more sense, otherwise i used the screws. i didn't feel like i was loving up the metal on my case at all so i guess i got lucky in that regard.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 19:58
|
|
|
Pyroclastic posted:I don't want to pay $25 for 25 of them The saying goes "pennywise and pound-foolish". The time you spend worrying about it is already worth $25 no questions asked. Just do a few test purchases.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 21:14
|
|
|
fargom posted:Can anyone recommend some quality 120mm fans that don't have the RBG LED crap? Is there a significant quality difference in the $7 and $25 fans? I'm looking to replace two intake, one exhaust on my midtower lan-li case, and the fan in the middle of my old tuniq tower extreme CPU cooler. Corsair ML120 Pro or whichever Noctua you like. Cheap fans usually have lower top speeds, lack PWM speed control (meaning they have high minimum RPM and may squeak at low speeds), are noisier (might not come with rubber bushings and hence prone to incredibly annoying vibrations) and move less air. Of course a fan is still a fan and even cheap ones move air, but if you care about noise and thermals enough to upgrade your fans, just go with decent ones. Also 140mm fans are better than 120mm ones if you can fit them - they move more air with less noise.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 22:45
|
|
|
I anti-recommend Corsair for fans - they are some of the noisiest I have ever used!
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2018 10:36
|
|
|
Any reliable way to buy screws that fit an ODD (optical disk drive) bay’s holes in Europe? I tried buying one of those Chinese sets of computer scews, but it’s garbage quality that’s even missing some sizes, not that they’re accurate to begin with. I think i measured the original screws at ~3mm (ie M3). E: Oh, and the have to be long, like >=1cm. Current ones don’t work because they are too short. ufarn fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Nov 2, 2018 |
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2018 15:06
|
|
|
fargom posted:Can anyone recommend some quality 120mm fans that don't have the RBG LED crap? Is there a significant quality difference in the $7 and $25 fans? I'm looking to replace two intake, one exhaust on my midtower lan-li case, and the fan in the middle of my old tuniq tower extreme CPU cooler. Arctic's F12 is cheap, has no LEDs, and allows you to daisy chain the fans if you want to run multiple off of the same PWM header. I haven't used the 120mm version but bought a five-pack of the 80mm F8 for my NAS and have been really pleased with the noise levels compared to the other 80mm models I've used.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2018 16:26
|
|
|
I have the following products that have RGB LED capability, each with their own separate interface for managing the colors and poo poo, I didn't really *want* leds on my MOBO and GPU but even basic ones have it now. Gigabyte Video Card (awful awful software) ASUS Motherboard (loving awful software) Razer Keyboard (it's okay, at least there's an API I can talk to) Logitech Mouse (not bad, actually) My case does not have a window but I am in the process of shopping a new case and was curious if there's any application out there that can help manage all these different Lighting systems so I can at least sync them in even the most basic way? Is there any talk of some universal API that can help bring all these retarded lighting systems together? There's still light bleed coming out of the case's vents in the back. On the subject of cases, I'm looking for a smaller (but not quite mATX) case with good soundproofing, if anybody wants to throw out any suggestions.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2018 17:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 13:23 |
|
|
I have two exhaust fans on the bottom of my case, but I have a problem with it. my PSU is directly beside the fans, and some of the wires lightly brush against the fans, which causes noise. it's not a big deal when I'm browsing the internet, but when I play games, it makes a very annoying rhythmic sound. I've tried cable tying the wires out of the way, but I've got nothing to anchor them on in the case. I've tried anchoring them to other wires, but it's only a quick fix and slowly sags back down. any advice?
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2018 18:40
|
|