|
BlackMK4 posted:Printed some brake ducts that fit into stock blanking plates of my front bumper Dangit, I really need to get a 3D printer. KakerMix posted:
I keep forgetting to buy a box of those to use for cleaning stuff. I finally put a bumper on the shitbox:   It's just a fiberglass thing. I still need to buy some square tubing and build an actual bumper under there. I'm not confident it'll stay there @ 70 MPH as it is, but now I know where the actual bumper bar needs to go. edit: please excuse the hard parking. That was to get access to the retaining screws for the bumper and the inner fender. Also, it looks 20% cooler.
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2018 21:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 19:05 |
|
|
Vanagoon posted:If it's soft enough plastic and it won't push further down into the tube try driving a coarse thread wood screw with a fine point into the top of it, and use pliers to grab onto the screw to haul it out. I considered that, but I think it'll just be safer to pull the tube so I don't accidentally get anything in the pan if something were to go awry. It doesn't look too bad, but it is definitely jammed in there solid. My replacement should be here in a few days.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2018 22:07
|
|
|
EvilBeard posted:I considered that, but I think it'll just be safer to pull the tube so I don't accidentally get anything in the pan if something were to go awry. It doesn't look too bad, but it is definitely jammed in there solid. My replacement should be here in a few days. You know...deep down...and we've all been there...replacing is going to be a helluva harder than removing.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2018 22:12
|
|
C-Bangin' it
|
If you're going to remove the dipstick tube why not try and make an adapter to use air or water pressure to force the broken stick out? Like, Put a basketball needle in a bike pump, and put a hose over the fat part of the needle and the other end over the end of the dipstick tube, and blow it on out. A bit of fuel line would be a perfect bridge for that purpose. Same with a garden hose, I've been known to clear seemingly intractable clogs in bagless vacuum cleaner hoses by poking a garden hose in one end and cranking it wide open. One of those little super basic nozzles like this would be great for attaching a hose to the dipstick tube using a bit of fuel or vacuum line or something https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sun-Joe-2-in-1-Twist-Hose-Nozzle-Jet-Sweeper-Nozzle-8211-SJI-4BHNC/46408934 Vanagoon fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Dec 5, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2018 03:47
|
|
|
I started it. For the first time since probably like 2011 (not sure, the tabs on it expired 2010) and the first time ever in my possession. The 12A wants to idle at 3000 RPM and I think I'm supposed to idle it in the driveway at more like 2000-2500 rpm for breaking it in , so I have to figure out how to get the idle down. Also, the Racing Beat system on it is loud AF so I'm sure my neighbors are like a week away from hating my guts.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2018 04:08
|
|
|
Soldered up a secondary air injection simulator for the S2000 a couple weeks ago so I could ditch the air pump, lines, check valve, etc. Car was dead when I went to move it a couple days later, figured it was because I hosed up the wiring or because I use a 170cca PC680 (https://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-PC680-Battery/dp/B0002ILK6I) battery in it that has been in the car since before I bought it two years ago. I let it sit without being started for weeks at a time so I usually leave it on a tender. Nope, popped into my head a few minutes ago that I left the loving bluetooth OBD reader plugged in AGAIN. Goddamn thing drains the battery dead in a day every time I forget about it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2018 05:02
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:I started it. I’m sure everyone in a two mile radius is hating me as well since my 12A is currently running some sort of “custom” header and front section to an old Pacesetter rear, and is insanely loud even under 3k rpm.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2018 12:33
|
|
|
Imperador do Brasil posted:I’m sure everyone in a two mile radius is hating me as well since my 12A is currently running some sort of “custom” header and front section to an old Pacesetter rear, and is insanely loud even under 3k rpm. The sound of a straight piped rotary is pure sex (but only to the person redlining it before grabbing the next gear....).
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2018 13:26
|
|
|
My wife's civic came back from the dealer with an oil change and a note in the file saying that the oil level was over capacity due to oil/fuel dilution. Other than that they do not have a "fix" or anything other than a TSB right now. In other news: I hard wired my Valentine One to the rearview mirror in my Chevy SS. It was super simple to do, I just cut the end off of a phone cord, threw a 2A fuse-able link between the radar detector and the mirror wiring harness, and soldered some pins that fit in the back of the mirror plug which piggybacks on the 12v the car supplies to the mirror. Much cleaner than the spiral power cable from the cigarette lighter and I didn't have to run a power cable under the weatherstripping and across the side impact airbag. also: I got a set of gen 2 CTS-V brakes for the SS for super cheap thanks to cyber monday. Ignore how dirty the wheels are, it is cold outside. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2018 20:25
|
|
|
doogle posted:My wife's civic came back from the dealer with an oil change and a note in the file saying that the oil level was over capacity due to oil/fuel dilution. Other than that they do not have a "fix" or anything other than a TSB right now. Who the hell had Cyber Monday deals on those monsters? Also, what kind of calipers are they replacing? Brembo 4 pots? Also, what are you going to do with the old ones...?
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2018 21:03
|
|
|
New door seals on the FB. The old ones were so perished you could see inside the car through them with the doors closed. This job is not fun in below freezing temperatures outside (I let my wife park the FXT inside since I’m nice).  
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2018 23:00
|
|
|
gently caress car doors. Cripes removing the cards/panels are a pain (and you always destroy something in the process.) Then, my god, peel back the plastic weather shield and you are left dealing with an adhesive that is used on spacecraft. Of course after that, if your hands are larger than someone that is five years old get a tetanus shot. Rant over.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2018 23:25
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:gently caress car doors. Cripes removing the cards/panels are a pain (and you always destroy something in the process.) Then, my god, peel back the plastic weather shield and you are left dealing with an adhesive that is used on spacecraft. Good thing I don’t have door panels!
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2018 00:41
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:gently caress car doors. Cripes removing the cards/panels are a pain (and you always destroy something in the process.) Then, my god, peel back the plastic weather shield and you are left dealing with an adhesive that is used on spacecraft. This. I had my driver door on my 4runner blow open during a gust of wind. Had to replace the door check/stop. It should have been a simple 5 minute fix by unbolding the four bolts and replacing them. After replacing it, I realized my window wouldn't roll down. I looked into it and saw that the door check bent far enough to grab my window track and pinch/bend it enough so that my window couldn't roll up or down. It took 2-3 days to finally get it working properly again. Trying to bend a U shaped steel track blindly with your hands up the door like a veterinarian up a cows bum was tricky to say the least. I could get my door apart blindfolded now. Then I had a rear license plate bolt head snap off and couldn't get it out so I had to remove my rear hatch panel and go in from the inside. The weather membrane and black mystery adhesive straight up sucks. I hate getting behind panels.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2018 01:00
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:gently caress car doors. Cripes removing the cards/panels are a pain (and you always destroy something in the process.) Then, my god, peel back the plastic weather shield and you are left dealing with an adhesive that is used on spacecraft. Man, I hear that second part. I had to fix both the rear window tracks in the Nova and your think I was wrestling a cat by the time I was done with them both. And of course all of the work is done blind because your arm is in the way of actually seeing anything.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2018 01:08
|
|
|
Solution: employ 5 year olds as surrogate hands.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2018 01:44
|
|
|
Imperador do Brasil posted:I’m sure everyone in a two mile radius is hating me as well since my 12A is currently running some sort of “custom” header and front section to an old Pacesetter rear, and is insanely loud even under 3k rpm. I had one set up with a header, straight pipe, stock muffler. My friends still remind me how loud it was and I sold the car in like 2003. This might be right up there. I sort of anticipated the pre silencer would do something
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2018 02:00
|
|
|
Boaz MacPhereson posted:Who the hell had Cyber Monday deals on those monsters? They are replacing the stock Chevy SS 4 pot brembos (which are the same as gen 1 CTS-V). EBC had a deal on rotors/pads for them too:  If you have an application you want the factory brakes for, I’ll cut you a deal.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2018 03:28
|
|
|
Oh maaan. Those 1st Gen cts-v brembos will bolt on to my Nova with some z06 rotors. I'm pretty sure I'd have to go to 18" wheels though. I really don't have the scratch for it right now, but thanks for the offer. Dang.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2018 03:35
|
|
|
Got it to idle at a reasonable speed? https://youtu.be/WJIgRGp8mv4 It will rev too. https://youtu.be/FpqHMgckeis Found some oil leaks after running. Coming from the not very tight oil cooler line fittings, which I expected. Next time I have daylight, I'm going to tighten them just enough.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2018 01:46
|
|
|
Changed the oil in both the Rugger and Bongo. Bongo just uses Miata filters so like 6 bucks at any auto parts store and 4~ quarts of oil. Rugger is a little more complicated, 13 bucks on Amazon  plus 6.1~ quarts. Rugger insists on having a giant skid plate underneath too so that was a nice surprise. Then I took the running boards off the Rugger as it turns out any SUV I get from Japan that has running boards looks better without them, and it was a lot easier to get to the oil change stuff without them. I then scrubbed clean the wheels and trim restored the black plastic using 303.    Going to be powder coating the wheels a gold/bronze color to match the decals on the side (and the bitchin' tire cover) and then mount them on so BF Goodrich KO2s with white letters OUT. EDIT and then I'll probably actually wash/detail the whole truck.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2018 02:07
|
|
|
KakerMix posted:Changed the oil in both the Rugger and Bongo. Bongo just uses Miata filters so like 6 bucks at any auto parts store and 4~ quarts of oil. Rugger is a little more complicated, 13 bucks on Amazon God that fraction quart poo poo annoyed the hell out of me when we had our old civic. 3.4 Quarts. Well hell, kinda fill that last fourth one out trying to tell when it is close to half. Wait 10 drat seconds for the level to stabilize and repeat yada yada. Hell it felt like building a bomb. Then, of course you toss the .6 qts left on the shelf and the next time you do the oil change you ask yourself "Man, should I trust this, did I do something with this, etc."
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2018 16:53
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:God that fraction quart poo poo annoyed the hell out of me when we had our old civic. 3.4 Quarts. Well hell, kinda fill that last fourth one out trying to tell when it is close to half. Wait 10 drat seconds for the level to stabilize and repeat yada yada. Hell it felt like building a bomb. Then, of course you toss the .6 qts left on the shelf and the next time you do the oil change you ask yourself "Man, should I trust this, did I do something with this, etc." I bought a few cheap measuring cups from Walmart and don't even pour out any extra from the jug.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2018 18:04
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:I bought a few cheap measuring cups from Walmart and don't even pour out any extra from the jug. Yeah, you are a much brighter bulb than myself. I'd lose the measuring cups in the morass of what I call my garage.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2018 20:36
|
|
|
That is why I bought a few
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2018 02:04
|
|
|
Did a coolant flush on the MS3. I only ended up needing to put 1 gallon of fresh coolant in to fill it up, but the capacity is 2 gallons per the manual. Guess that means I need to do this a couple more times to get all of the old stuff out. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2018 03:53
|
|
|
There might also still be air in there. Don't forget to bleed it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2018 03:57
|
|
|
On the topic of coolant bleeding - Lisle funnels are cheap as poo poo on Amazon and worth every single penny https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2018 04:20
|
|
|
So I bought this carb for the FB and I’m having questions as to what it really is. It doesn’t match visually with the standard Nikki carb. Any ideas? It was pulled from an 85 RX7. Stock carb  Newly delivered Nikki 
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2018 15:23
|
|
|
That looks nothing like an FB Nikki to me. Maybe it came of a SA or earlier 12A? I have no idea what those carbs look like but I hear there are considerable differences... clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Dec 10, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2018 17:46
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:That looks nothing like an FB Nikki to me. Which is exactly why I’m asking what it might actually be, since it was pulled off an FB Edit: Carter? Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Dec 10, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2018 18:51
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:On the topic of coolant bleeding - Lisle funnels are cheap as poo poo on Amazon and worth every single penny Thanks. I've been meaning to look those up since I recently saw a couple YouTubers using them (Aging Wheels, for one.) Added to "Tools" list. clutchpuck posted:That looks nothing like an FB Nikki to me. Not an SA, but probably still earlier rotary. SA Nikki looks pretty much like the FB. edit: This guy had the same issue. Looks like it's amn early '70 12A carb. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Dec 10, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2018 20:05
|
|
|
doogle posted:My wife's civic came back from the dealer with an oil change and a note in the file saying that the oil level was over capacity due to oil/fuel dilution. Other than that they do not have a "fix" or anything other than a TSB right now. Back when I was looking at brake upgrades for my Cutlass, first-gen 4-piston CTS-V Brembo calipers were amazingly cheap, literally the cheapest Brembo caliper available. How cheap (or "cheap") were those, if you don't mind my asking? Jeeze, now it looks like the later rear calipers are as big as the first-gen front calipers! Imperador do Brasil posted:New door seals on the FB. The old ones were so perished you could see inside the car through them with the doors closed. Whose seals did you use? I've heard that some of the aftermarket ones are "too thick". The one's on my '79 aren't so much "perished" as mostly nonexistent.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2018 20:06
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Thanks. I've been meaning to look those up since I recently saw a couple YouTubers using them (Aging Wheels, for one.) Added to "Tools" list. Sorry, this one is cheaper and has the lid. I didn't realize they had multiple version  - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2018 20:09
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Back when I was looking at brake upgrades for my Cutlass, first-gen 4-piston CTS-V Brembo calipers were amazingly cheap, literally the cheapest Brembo caliper available. How cheap (or "cheap") were those, if you don't mind my asking? I got the Metro ones off Amazon. They are pretty drat thick but after a few times of closing them they are compressing.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2018 20:12
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:Sorry, this one is cheaper and has the lid. I didn't realize they had multiple version Even better! Imperador do Brasil posted:I got the Metro ones off Amazon. They are pretty drat thick but after a few times of closing them they are compressing. That's kind of how I read the comments, hence the quotes. They just need a little time to conform. Though apparently the factory ones fit "better" from the start. Also, I added an edit to my comment on the carburetor above to the effect that you've got an early '70s 12A carb, in case you missed it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2018 20:23
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:That's kind of how I read the comments, hence the quotes. They just need a little time to conform. Though apparently the factory ones fit "better" from the start. Yeah I saw that thanks. 12A is a 12A so I’ll toss it on there and see how she performs. Less emissions bullshit on this one anyhow. I thought about getting the factory seals from Atkins but at $58/pair the Metro ones were half the price.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2018 20:53
|
|
|
On the weekend, we drove about 1200 km to deliver stuff to storage before we move to across the Pacific. My 97 Ranger had been exhibiting a slowly-worsening hesitation / shuddering issue that felt like a misfire but wasn't throwing a CEL (and it's not a blown CEL bulb, my scanner comes up clean). This truck has a history of problems with cylinder #4 due to a teeny-tiny oil leak that's never been *quite* worth the hassle of tracking down when a simple spark-plug swap will solve the problem for a year or so. The shuddering happens under load. When the truck is empty, it doesn't happen unless I'm accelerating up a hill, especially in 3rd or 4th. Packed to the gills with boxes of books, it shuddered in any gear at all times except coasting down in gear from highway speeds, or descending steep hills. Weirdly, the issue has completely gone away. Mid-trip Friday, having driven about 200 km with another 200 to go, it was not shuddering at all after lunch. The next time I shut it down and then started up again (fuel & bathroom break), the problem did not return. The next day, after the engine had cooled completely (to about -10 C), again no problem, and the problem still has not returned at all. I'm happy about this - driving with a shudder like that is irritating and worrying - but confused. Literally nothing changed, except (like a computer), turning it off then on again a few minutes later. tl/dr: What did I do? NOTHING, yet it's better
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2018 23:33
|
|
|
Ok thanks all you guys for the help in ID’ing that carb. The base plate is wrong for my intake manifold so I decided to do a ghetto mechanical secondary/AP mod on my stock Nikki. Yes that’s a paper clip mechanically linking the secondaries to the throttle linkage. If I like this I’ll throw a spot of weld on there and make it permanent.  
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2018 00:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 19:05 |
|
|
  
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2018 00:47
|
|