|
What country are you in? Netherlands What are you using the system for? The smallest possible gaming box I can easily source from one shop with fast shipping and a policies (and unfortunately, Dan cases are hard to get here). I've been mostly playing Cities: Skylines with a crapton of custom content (bonsai for nerds) for the last three years. If I can ever be arsed to start making 3d assets for C:S again, I'll have to be running 3ds Max + Photoshop + the game itself which eats up resources like no other on my current system (i5 3350p; 16GB; GTX960; 240GB SSD) What's your budget? ~<€1.400 I hope If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? Maybe my old SSD wiped clean and Linux Mint installed, I should be using my T460 instead though. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? 1080p and I don't feel like investing a ton since this monitor is decent. PCPartPicker is rear end for shop prices here so here's my own take: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700 Wraith Boxed; € 265,- CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9a-AM4; € 45,99 Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX/ac; € 109,95 Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX CMK32GX4M2B3000C15; € 242,- Storage: Samsung 970 EVO 500GB; € 120,- Case: Kolink Rocket; € 157,95 Power Supply:Corsair SF600 (2018); € 95,- Video Card: ???? Total: for now, € 1.039,84 My big outstanding issues are:
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2019 20:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 07:56 |
|
|
For gaming, a 2600X would usually outperform a 2700 for (probably) less money, but might run into cooling issues with a L9a in such a small case. The B450 should be fine. In fact, it's basically identical to ASRock's X470 itx motherboard, with the latter only having slightly better wifi and bluetooth. The 250/500GB versions of the 970 EVO have random r/w performance issues. The Pro/Plus fixes those issues, but the Pro is much more expensive, and the Plus has limited availability. I'd get an HP ex920 or ADATA sx8200 if you can find them for similar price or cheaper. 600W would be preferable, especially if you're considering AMD graphics cards. They shouldn't be too dissimilar in price. With a 1060, you'll need to turn down settings on some newer AAA games to hit a steady 60fps at 1080p. A Vega 56 is ~50% performance boost over the 1060 6GB, and should run any current game at 1080p/60/ultra. If there similar prices, the Vega 56 is a much better value (and should come with three free games!) It does use a lot more power, though, so it might be worth looking around to see if it might cause cooling issues. The 1660/ 1660 Ti should be releasing soon state-side, but I'm not sure what the European price points will look like. The 1660 Ti will likely give about 10% less performance than a Vega 56. Stickman fucked around with this message at 07:30 on Feb 22, 2019 |
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2019 21:12
|
|
|
tuyop posted:Reposting because I think I got lost at some point. Sorry if it’s just a boring question! For video encoding, at least, the 2700X is best bang-for-buck if you can afford to spend a bit extra. I'm not sure about Fusion 360, but it also trounces an 8600 (or 2600) in 3ds max rendering. Unfortunately, there's not really any good options for mATX motherboards, so I'd consider something like this: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor ($424.99 @ Powertop) Motherboard: MSI - X470 GAMING PRO CARBON ATX AM4 Motherboard ($229.00 @ Canada Computers) Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB OC Video Card ($469.00 @ Canada Computers) Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($112.99 @ PC-Canada) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx (2018) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Canada Computers) Total: $1345.97 It'll also draw more power than a non-overclocking Intel build. Ryzen 7 is also more affected by RAM speed than Intel (the system bus is tied to RAM speed), so if your RAM is <3000MHz DD4, you might be hurting performance a bit. Also, if your RAM is DDR3, you'll need to upgrade it for either system - both Ryzen and 8th/9th gen Intel CPUs are only compatible with DDR4. Going by the techspot report, I suspect the 2600 would slightly outperform the 8600 for video editing, but they're probably awfully close. On the Ryzen build, I'd consider moving up to a B450 Tomahawk and maybe to a 2600X. The Motherboard will be compatible with the next two AMD CPU generations, and the Tomahawk is a solid board that will support decent overclocking or more power-hungry CPUs. On the Intel build, I'd at least get the H370 version of the motherboard for the same price. You'll still be limited to 2666MHz RAM and locked CPUs, but you'll get extra PCIe lanes (which don't matter too much now, but will if you upgrade the GPU or add additional PCIe cards at some point in the future) On both, I'd spend the extra $10 for the RMx PSU - it's fully modular and comes with a 10-year rather than 7-year warranty. E: The Fractal Design Focus G actually comes with LED fans. If you don't want extra lights, I'd consider a Define C or Meshify C instead. Both come in ATX and mATX flavors, which choice of solid or windowed sides. Stickman fucked around with this message at 08:38 on Feb 22, 2019 |
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 08:25
|
|
|
Thanks for all the advice on memory! This will be the third computer I've built, but to be honest I'm still not 100% sure of how everything works, and I just know how to follow directions to put it together. I still didn't get my question about the CPU coolers answered, so I'm just bringing it up again: quote:I'm also getting a Intel Core i7-8700K and the CPU cooler suggested for me was the Noctua NH-D15S, but it's only sold from Amazon and I'd prefer to keep everything from Newegg just to make it easier to keep track of things. Is there any reason to stick to that model or try to go for a slighter cheaper one or a Phantasks fan? I'm honestly not sure if there's a reason to go with a more expensive CPU cooler with a i7 and not with just the Cooler Master I've used before on a i5 build. Is there any reason for me to go with that fan aside from that it works really well and is super quiet?
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 10:04
|
|
|
Splash Attack posted:Is there any reason to stick to that model or try to go for a slighter cheaper one or a Phantasks fan? I'm honestly not sure if there's a reason to go with a more expensive CPU cooler with a i7 and not with just the Cooler Master I've used before on a i5 build.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 10:18
|
|
|
Nocheez posted:I went a little nutty and am running 16GBx4 running at 3200 on my build. I have no idea why I thought I would ever need 64GB of RAM... If I can ask, is that actually running at the XMP timings? If so that's impressive as poo poo. Usually motherboards don't support their maximum density of memory outside of basically the slowest possible speed for the type of RAM.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 10:30
|
|
|
Splash Attack posted:I still didn't get my question about the CPU coolers answered, so I'm just bringing it up again: orange juche posted:If I can ask, is that actually running at the XMP timings? If so that's impressive as poo poo. Usually motherboards don't support their maximum density of memory outside of basically the slowest possible speed for the type of RAM.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 11:12
|
|
|
Llamadeus posted:Not saying you have to get a super high end air cooler if you don't want to, but those low profile coolers are outclassed by even the 212: they're only worth it if you're using a case that literally can't fit anything bigger. orcane posted:Low profile coolers are fine for small cases lacking the clearance for towers, or if you have a low-TDP CPU (which you won't). If you want similar performance you'll need a tower cooler of a similar size (Cryorig or eg. be quiet! make those too, but I can't remember specific products), a single tower cooler like the Noctua NH-U14S works too (it has less headroom for OC though). So the 212 is still a pretty good alternative? I'm not really planning on overclocking since I don't trust myself to not gently caress up somehow. I don't think space will be a problem since I'm going with a [urlhttps://pcpartpicker.com/product/JcgPxr/corsair-270r-atx-mid-tower-case-cc-9011106-ww]Corsair 270R[/url].
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 11:55
|
|
|
The 212 is still one of the cheapest 120mm tower coolers but imo it's worth getting something that's quieter, has more thermal headroom, and doesn't use a sleeve bearing fan.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 12:12
|
|
|
Splash Attack posted:Thanks for all the advice on memory! This will be the third computer I've built, but to be honest I'm still not 100% sure of how everything works, and I just know how to follow directions to put it together. Since you have the Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Elite, the D15 is also compatible with your board. It's basically the same cooler, but is an older design blocks the top PCIe slot on some motherboards and comes with two fans instead of one. If you want something slightly cheaper but nearly as cool and quiet, the U14s is also compatible with your board. The Le Grand Macho RT in the same price range/performance. The Cryorig H5 Ultimate or Universal are decent coolers at the next price/performance step down, but like the D15s they only seem to be available from third-party merchants on Newegg (though one seems to be the official Cryorig store out of Taiwan).
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 12:29
|
|
|
Stickman posted:For video encoding, at least, the 2700X is best bang-for-buck if you can afford to spend a bit extra. I'm not sure about Fusion 360, but it also trounces an 8600 (or 2600) in 3ds max rendering. Unfortunately, there's not really any good options for mATX motherboards, so I'd consider something like this: That's rough news, I'm sure that all my RAM laying around is DDR3. That bill for the upgrade from Ryzen 5 to 7 is a bit much. It sounds like I'd only see a little bit of performance increase for like, almost twice the cost. The Ryzen 5 and 7 use the same socket, right? So can't I just upgrade later if I need to? What are the limitations of the mATX mobos? I've only ever needed an extra PCI lane once for a wifi card, and I don't think I'd see any performance increases in wifi if I just do a USB3 dongle these days instead, right? I like small cases and I don't want to buy more than I need. If I compare the X470, X370M, B450M Pro 4 and the B450 Pro 4 on ASRock's site, it sounds like the biggest feature differences between the mATX and ATX cards are PCI lanes and different M.2 slots at the highest end. Am I missing something here? Thanks for the PSU recommendation, that's awesome. Updated list, sounds like the AMD CPUs are the way to go. CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($228.00 @ Powertop) Motherboard: ASRock - B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($79.90 @ Vuugo) Memory: G.Skill - Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($116.99 @ Newegg Canada) Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB OC Video Card ($469.00 @ Canada Computers) Case: Fractal Design - Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($53.99 @ PC-Canada) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx (2018) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Canada Computers) Total: $1057.87 tuyop fucked around with this message at 12:59 on Feb 22, 2019 |
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 12:53
|
|
|
tuyop posted:That's rough news, I'm sure that all my RAM laying around is DDR3. The biggest difference between cheap motherboards and expensive motherboards is the power handling circuitry - more expensive boards use better (and more) components, often with heatsinks attached specifically to the voltage controller. That's most important for running power-hungry CPUs that can overclock (which the 2700X and 2600X can do automatically - 2600/2700 can also overclock, but their stock coolers don't support it and it's primarily done manually), but can also affect motherboard lifespan if you run a lot of power through a cheaper motherboard. There's also some other features like better audio chips, more USB ports/headers, additional M.2 SSD sockets, wifi, rgb, etc. that might come with more expensive boards, but power control is the big one. On the AMD side, X470 boards generally have better power handling than B450 boards (but it's not always the case). If your fine with a stock-clocked 2600, a cheaper B450 will work (I'd recommend the ASRock B450M Pro4), but I wouldn't recommend anything less than the Tomahawk or an X470 for a 2600X or 2700. The mATX comment was mostly for the 2700X specifically. There aren't any X470 mATX boards, and most B450 mATX boards have poorer power management than is ideal for a 2700X. On the Intel side, the B360 and H370 boards are locked, meaning any overclock-capable CPU can only run at stock speeds (like the 8600k/9600k), but also that RAM is limited to 2666MHz, even if it's rated higher. Z370/Z390 boards can run RAM faster than 2666MHz and overclock unlocked CPUs, though cheaper boards will have poor power handling. The B360 and H370 chipsets are similar, but B360 only offer 12 PCIe lanes while the H370 offers 20 (the same as Z370/90). There's also some small differences in the max # of USB ports and I/O channels. None of these are likely to cause trouble, but since the H370 board is basically the same price, there's no reason to go for the B360. If you need RAM as well and want to keep it under $1000, here's my recommendation: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($228.00 @ Powertop) Motherboard: ASRock - B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($79.90 @ Vuugo) Memory: G.Skill - Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($116.99 @ Newegg Canada) Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB OC Video Card ($469.00 @ Canada Computers) Case: Thermaltake - Versa H18 Tempered Glass MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($54.99 @ Memory Express) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx (2018) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Canada Computers) Total: $1058.87 I wouldn't recommend upgrading to anything over a 2600 on the B450M PRO4, but it should work fine for the 2600. If you want to drop off that last $50, you might consider waiting for the 1660 Ti that's supposedly releasing later this week. If it follows US pricing it should be ~$375 cad, with 1070-level performance (about ~15% less than the 2060) and no RTX. That'd also let you move up to a Define Mini C and stay under $1000. E: Totally beat me to the list  E2: I can’t remember if this came up, but get a Windows 7 key from SA Mart for $25 and use that to activate Windows 10 Pro. Stickman fucked around with this message at 13:53 on Feb 22, 2019 |
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 13:29
|
|
|
orange juche posted:If I can ask, is that actually running at the XMP timings? If so that's impressive as poo poo. Usually motherboards don't support their maximum density of memory outside of basically the slowest possible speed for the type of RAM. Yes. I think I just got lucky, but when I first used the system it was acting weird and wouldn't load the XMP at all. I finally realized the problem was my old SATA hard drive, so I just unplugged it and everything's great now.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 14:13
|
|
|
Hey, sorry, back with questions. I was pretty much set on a Strix 2070 to replace my 970, but the one I was aiming for just jumped in price; it was already on the upper edge of what I was willing to spend on it so now it's gone past the 'kinda sorta impulse purchase' limit, which brings me back to the research phase. Would a 2060 be much of a performance difference with a 2070 if I'm only going to be doing 1080p/60hz gaming? Common sense tells me it's gonna be pretty much the same (I'm aiming for ultra settings) for the next ~year and I'm only gonna start noticing a difference in the 'long run', does that sound reasonable? I was thinking maybe getting the 2060 now and just cruising on that until I have enough money to get a 144hz monitor and maybe then see about making the jump. Sorry, just frustrated the 2070 is suddenly more expensive so I'm gauging my options. :<
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 16:30
|
|
|
Just triple checking a build for my wife's new PC before I buy it later this week. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($164.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock - B450 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($89.89 @ OutletPC) Memory: G.Skill - Sniper X 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($115.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($68.99 @ Amazon) Case: Cooler Master - HAF 922 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $519.74 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-02-22 10:58 EST-0500 All she does is play WoW, Sims 4, and some word processing. I would like to make sure WoW runs at a solid 30fps. She's already got a Nvidia 1060 in her current PC but the processor is super old.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 17:01
|
|
|
Nocheez posted:I'm an Intel man because I was burned by AMDs in the past, so I would go with the Intel build. I'm sure someone else will say to go with the AMD and save a few bucks, but I don't think you'll be unhappy with either one. I've just wasted god-knows-how-many loving hours diagnosing a Cisco B200 M5 blade server only to come the conclusion, together with Cisco, that both 1-year-old 18-core 3GHz Skylake-X CPUs are just loving dead. They crash any software within minutes. The Cisco 3rd level guy also said it's happening more and more often, and that basically, Intel CPUs are not what they used to be. It's nuts to me: the CPU has traditionally almost never been the problem. Does that mean I'd avoid Intel? Nah, but equally, your probable anecdotes of what I imagine to be Athlon XP era CPUs is equally baseless.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 20:27
|
|
|
Irritated Goat posted:Just triple checking a build for my wife's new PC before I buy it later this week. Looks good! I'd save a bit of money and go with an EVGA G1+ ($60 AR) or Seasonic Focus Plus ($70 AR). Both have 10-year warranties vs. the G2 7-year (for the 550/650W versions). Be aware that your chosen RAM has a decent chance of not running at 3200MHz, and possibly not at 3000MHz. There are quite a few reviews reaching 3000+ on Ryzen, though. Buying QVL tested RAM is a huge pain in the rear end, though, and Ryzen compatibility has been improved by bios updates. If you want QVL RAM, though, this G.Skill kit is QVL for only $5 more (though it's QVL to run at 3000MHz).
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 20:45
|
|
|
Are the Corsair CX series still garbage? I know they used to be, but that was a long time ago. The OP was also last updated almost a year ago.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 20:52
|
|
|
HalloKitty posted:I've just wasted god-knows-how-many loving hours diagnosing a Cisco B200 M5 blade server only to come the conclusion, together with Cisco, that both 1-year-old 18-core 3GHz Skylake-X CPUs are just loving dead. They crash any software within minutes. The Cisco 3rd level guy also said it's happening more and more often, and that basically, Intel CPUs are not what they used to be. It's nuts to me: the CPU has traditionally almost never been the problem. They aren't baseless, but you are right that it was the Athlon garbage that soured me. I also had 3 bad AMD video cards in a row, so I stick with nVidia. I understand that everyone has different experiences, and that anecdotes are not the singular of data, but I've been building computers for almost 25 years (holy poo poo I'm old) so you remember the times you've been burned more than the times when everything worked perfectly.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 20:54
|
|
|
Edmond Dantes posted:Hey, sorry, back with questions. I don't know which Strix you were looking at, but the EVGA XC Ultra Gaming is a good lower-top-tier 2070 for $550, and you get EVGA's good support to boot. You also get the ability to purchase extended warranty and potentially step up to a 2080 within 90 days if you're unhappy with performance. That said, a 2060 will max or very close to max every current game at 1080p/60/Ultra. If you don't think you're going to be upgrading your monitor soon, the 2060 or Vega 56 are good upgrade choices (or even a 1660 Ti).
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 20:54
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Are the Corsair CX series still garbage? I know they used to be, but that was a long time ago. The OP was also last updated almost a year ago. There's generally no reason to buy them. There's almost always a Seasonic Focus Plus, Corsair RMx (2018), or EVGA G1+/G2/G3 for just $10 or $20 more (and often the same price). That gets you better quality, full modularity, and 10-year warranties vs the CX's 5-year (except for the 550/650W G2/G3, which are 7-year).
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 20:59
|
|
|
Do the 10 year warranties actually work out? Do they stay functioning close enough to nominal wattage that long or do they play some sort of "unplug everything not essential, does it work? Then screw off" game? Amazon has a 650 G+ with a 10 year warranty for $75 right now, which is a tough hit to take but it might be the best option. E: Newegg has the 550 G3 for $64 shipped after rebate, but it's got both 7 and 10 years listed as a warranty on the image. Is it 10 for the higher tier ones? Is it 7, but 10 if you register? How does that work? 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Feb 22, 2019 |
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 21:12
|
|
|
They basically never die but when they do they can destroy 20x their value in other components so we always make sure they're in warranty.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 21:15
|
|
|
Oh, I know you're supposed to keep them in warranty, I just wasn't sure if it was a case where technically it's in warranty but it's going to lose enough power that it will fail safe and still leave you needing to buy a new one in 5 years. I made an edit before I saw your post, so I'm reposting it: Newegg has the 550 G3 for $64 shipped after rebate, but it's got both 7 and 10 years listed as a warranty on the image. Is it 10 for the higher tier ones? Is it 7, but 10 if you register? How does that work?
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 21:16
|
|
|
Stickman posted:I don't know which Strix you were looking at, but the EVGA XC Ultra Gaming is a good lower-top-tier 2070 for $550, and you get EVGA's good support to boot. You also get the ability to purchase extended warranty and potentially step up to a 2080 within 90 days if you're unhappy with performance. I'm not in the states so my selection is unfortunately quite limited (and much more expensive). The 2070 Strix I was eyeing was the Asus one because the EVGA 2070 is nowhere to be found down here (Argentina). The EVGA 2060 is available, but considering I won't be getting any type of support directly from the manufacturer, unless the EVGA is just outright better than the Asus is just kind of the same thing, since any issues I have with either I just take up with the seller. The 2060 EVGAs are the EVGA GeForce RTX 2060 XC Gaming and the EVGA GeForce RTX 2060 XC Black Edition Gaming which seem to be... exactly the same thing?
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 21:17
|
|
|
Edmond Dantes posted:The 2060 EVGAs are the EVGA GeForce RTX 2060 XC Gaming and the EVGA GeForce RTX 2060 XC Black Edition Gaming which seem to be... exactly the same thing? The black has a lower boost clock (1680 MHz vs 1755 MHz).
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 21:26
|
|
|
Edmond Dantes posted:I'm not in the states so my selection is unfortunately quite limited (and much more expensive). That makes sense - they're probably roughly equal in quality if you don't have to deal with support. They have the same cooling/board, but the XC Gaming comes with a factory overclock. For 2070/80/80 Tis, that would be somewhat important, because there are two tiers of chips shipped to third-party GPU manufacturers. For those models only the binned "A" chips (chosen for better overclocking ability) are permitted to be factory overclocked, so reference cards like the 2070 black will also have poorer overclocking performance, even with the same cooling. Apparently, 2060s are not binned, though, so the only difference is that'd you need to set an overclock yourself in software like EVGA Precision or MSI Afterburner. It's extremely easy to do.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 21:27
|
|
|
In their bizarre naming structure, XC Gaming is a step higher than XC Black Gaming.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 21:32
|
|
|
astral posted:In their bizarre naming structure, XC Gaming is a step higher than XC Black Gaming. Yeah, why they went with an extra descriptor for reference cards instead of for OC cards is beyond me 
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 21:41
|
|
|
Oh ffs. Thanks a lot, guys; glad I asked. Now I just need to, you know, actually make a decision. (Seriously, thanks, this thread is super friendly).
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 21:44
|
|
|
Edmond Dantes posted:Oh ffs. Thanks a lot, guys; glad I asked. Our pleasure! 
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 21:47
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Do the 10 year warranties actually work out? Do they stay functioning close enough to nominal wattage that long or do they play some sort of "unplug everything not essential, does it work? Then screw off" game? Amazon has a 650 G+ with a 10 year warranty for $75 right now, which is a tough hit to take but it might be the best option. I've never heard of a psu doing anything but dying or dying catastrophically, think of all the ancient dells and compaqs still banging around in people's parents/grandparents houses. The 10 year warranty gives some piece of mind towards the failing catastrophically part, but it's also that the difference between a bottom tier product and a top tier is ≈$20, so there's not a whole lot of reason not to just get the good one. If you have a low wattage computer I wouldn't be dissuaded from picking up a model with a 7 year warranty if it's going to be getting better efficiency at your typical load.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 22:12
|
|
|
Fair. Hers is running a 2600x, 16gb RAM, and a 8-pin GTX970. Photoshop is a hungry beast and she does some super high resolution stuff with like 10+ layers so I wanted to get her something fairly high powered. Unfortunately (loving shitfuck) the new PSU doesn't do anything, so I'm afraid it might be a death motherboard. Does that sound like the culprit if it's not doing anything when I try to power it up either by bridging the power pins or pressing the power button? At least the motherboard is still under warranty, although gently caress Gigabyte so hard. loving thing was $70, now $81, and it seems to have died within barely more than four months.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 23:21
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Fair. Hers is running a 2600x, 16gb RAM, and a 8-pin GTX970. Photoshop is a hungry beast and she does some super high resolution stuff with like 10+ layers so I wanted to get her something fairly high powered. What are the variables here? I'd call a suddenly dead Mobo more likely than any other component, but you can't be sure without testing each one. It's also possible the psu was DOA, though I don't know if they're as susceptible to that as other components are.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 23:45
|
|
|
I should have taken a picture of the menagerie of adapters I used to power my 1080 GPU in my old setup. I don't know what was more surprising, the fact it worked at all, or that it didn't catch fire in the 2 years I ran it that way. I got the PSU from Best Buy, too...
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 23:52
|
|
|
What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for?Gaming mostly, but also some streaming, video editing and photoshop What's your budget? Around $1000 USD If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? Dual Monitors 2560x1440 primary 1600x1200 secondary My Current PC was a beast when I bought it 5 years ago, and with an updated video card (GTX1060) and SSD (Evo940) it can still run everything at high or even maximum settings with passable framerates. Thing is that it's become unstable lately, it's still got Windows 7 on it and despite my best efforts It won't upgrade to win10. It's time to do a reformat and re-install a fresh OS, I figure if I'm going to the trouble to reinstall everything it's probably a good time to upgrade the CPU. I need a new MB, CPU, Ram, probably a PS and Case. I plan to re-use my current Video Card and SSDs. I got burned once by AMD so I'll be sticking with Intel, I like to get maximum bang for my buck but don't have any interest in overclocking or silly extraneous poo poo like lights or liquid cooling
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 01:20
|
|
|
Hey everyone. I asked for help several years ago and I'm starting to get that itch again. My current desktop is starting to feel a little pokey and I'm looking to fill that hole in my life with what else, a PC UPGRADE! What would you guys suggest I upgrade at this point? The list here is what I currently and rocking. I haven't been paying attention to any of the current trends. Thanks all! The void thing was a joke, I'm fine What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for? Gaming What's your budget? A negotiable $500 USD If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? Dual Monitors 1920x1080 primary 1200x1920 secondary PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i7-4790K 4 GHz Quad-Core Processor CPU Cooler: be quiet! - PURE ROCK 51.7 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($35.89 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock - H97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard Memory: ADATA - XPG V1.0 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR3-1600 Memory Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition Video Card ($459.99 @ Newegg Business) Case: Fractal Design - Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($137.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.89 @ OutletPC) Monitor: Asus - VG248QE 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor ($248.99 @ Amazon) Total: $962.74 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-02-22 22:23 EST-0500
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 04:36
|
|
|
My new motherboard (Gigabyte Aorus Pro z390) has both a 4-pin and an 8-pin CPU power connector, but my old power supply only has an 8-pin one that splits in half. The motherboard manual isn’t clear about there being two CPU power connectors (it refers to a singular 8-pin connector). A friend told me I only need to power the 8-pin one, but I’m skeptical Do I need to power both of these or just the 8-pin one? Juul-Whip fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Feb 23, 2019 |
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 06:08
|
|
|
You don't need the 4-pin if you've got the 8-pin connected. The 4-pin doesn't even exist on the Master and Xtreme, it's twin 8-pins, and even on those SKUs the second 8-pin is seen as optional unless you're planning on doing hobby/pro-level overclocking.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 06:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 07:56 |
|
|
Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 06:36
|
|