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More old model ads. Visit imgur for gigantic 
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Mar 5, 2019 16:43
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Had to be some thrill of risk in mail-order kits back in the day. Just a teeny thumbnail image to go by. We have it so easy now with every kit getting previewed and unboxed. I just came across a person on kijiji offering 3D printer knockoffs of Warhammer vehicles and minis. I can understand how someone could feel like they are sticking it to GW or whatever but I don't see how the value is there in pirating these. The seller is offering 'most tanks' for $10 - $15 each. Which seems cheap but we are talking about a cheap FDM print which means EVERY surface will need to be sanded and puttied to get the print steps out. The labour would eat up days. You would get better results scratchbuilding.
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Mar 5, 2019 17:54
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You'd get better results wandering the streets picking up change until you could just buy one by the looks of that 
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Mar 5, 2019 18:05
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Scut posted:Had to be some thrill of risk in mail-order kits back in the day. Just a teeny thumbnail image to go by. We have it so easy now with every kit getting previewed and unboxed. I started building models close to 30 years ago and got my start on hand-me-down kits from some of my dad's friends that had to have dated from the 60s and 70s. Coming from that kind of background, it was basically understood that you would be spending a lot of time fixing casting errors, sanding and gap filling (and more sanding). It was a part of the hobby. In a lot of ways, we are really, really spoiled these days. You can really see it in the wargaming side of things; folks whose experience mainly stems from putting together modern plastic GW kits often seem to experience a degree of culture shock when they branch out into scale models from other manufacturers.
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Mar 5, 2019 19:26
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Depends if you were round for the white metal era of games workshop or not I’d guess. I started collecting in 2000 and some of the plastic kits they’d put out in the 90’s where pretty bad really. With the white metal stuff you’d never be sure if it had fallen apart in transit to the battle which meant super glue was a necessary inclusion in the kit especially if you didn’t know about pinning the joints to prevent that from happening
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Mar 5, 2019 20:14
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I was a 95 GW starter, and building my first Tamiya kit blew my mind.
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Mar 5, 2019 21:38
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:Depends if you were round for the white metal era of games workshop or not I’d guess. I started collecting in 2000 and some of the plastic kits they’d put out in the 90’s where pretty bad really. With the white metal stuff you’d never be sure if it had fallen apart in transit to the battle which meant super glue was a necessary inclusion in the kit especially if you didn’t know about pinning the joints to prevent that from happening Yeah, when I say modern, I mean the newish plastics that have started to come out in the past seven years or so. The old metals could be a real bastard, and converting them asked a lot more of the builder than most other materials.
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Mar 6, 2019 03:10
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In the never-ending effort to step up my painting and modeling game, I was browsing thru my local Michael's and came across some Winsor & Newton water-soluble oil paints. I grabbed a couple of tubes, and while I'm still doing some experimenting, I have to say that they are potentially a game-changer for me once I work out how best to utilize them. 
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Mar 6, 2019 03:14
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I didn't know they made water soluble oil paints. I just buy the odourless turpentoid, a pint bottle lasts me for about two years.
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Mar 6, 2019 04:35
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Scut posted:Had to be some thrill of risk in mail-order kits back in the day. Just a teeny thumbnail image to go by. We have it so easy now with every kit getting previewed and unboxed. Why not make a loving resin casting or something?? 3d printing is great for prototyping new shapes other people have not produced molds and factories for, but it's pretty poo poo or really expensive for making knockoffs like that.
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Mar 6, 2019 04:55
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For all its expenses and shoddy quality on fine details, once you have the 3D printer dialed in it's basically set it and forget it. If he made casts, that would require effort the whole way through. The molds would wear out, and the overall cost of making new molds and the resin for casting would actually be a lot more than spools of filament for a printer. That's why in the garage kit industry most kit-makers severely limit their production runs, just enough to get a few dozen casts out before the molds wear out. Very few will continually keep casting their work and making new master molds, the costs are just too prohibitive. The same reason Sideshow is practically the only large scale statue maker still around these days. Bloody Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Mar 6, 2019 |
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Mar 6, 2019 06:31
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You'd get better results with any other kind of 3d printer too. FDM is no good for this sort of thing.
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Mar 6, 2019 07:36
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Fearless posted:Yeah, when I say modern, I mean the newish plastics that have started to come out in the past seven years or so. The old metals could be a real bastard, and converting them asked a lot more of the builder than most other materials. That’d be after I stopped buying anything from them I think. I bailed around the same time as finecast became a thing. I did manage to convert a metal archaeon into an empire general but it was a stack of work and the castings themselves had a pretty good warp going on which helped kill my enthusiasm for painting stuff really. I’d post pics but I’m pretty sure I deleted them when I sold everything off last year.
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Mar 6, 2019 07:45
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:That’d be after I stopped buying anything from them I think. I bailed around the same time as finecast became a thing. I did manage to convert a metal archaeon into an empire general but it was a stack of work and the castings themselves had a pretty good warp going on which helped kill my enthusiasm for painting stuff really. I’d post pics but I’m pretty sure I deleted them when I sold everything off last year. The Lord of the Rings franchise was hugely lucrative for them and they reinvested a shitload of the profits of that into what is now probably the best-in-class plastic kit design and production setup out there right now. They're producing some insanely intricate (for tabletop wargames standards, anyways) kits that fit together with very little flash, warping or adjustment. The Imperial Knight kits for 40k, for instance, practically put themselves together. I hear you though. The Finecast roll out was horrendous and casting errors became so common as to be features rather than bugs.
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Mar 6, 2019 07:51
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Sydney Bottocks posted:In the never-ending effort to step up my painting and modeling game, I was browsing thru my local Michael's and came across some Winsor & Newton water-soluble oil paints. I grabbed a couple of tubes, and while I'm still doing some experimenting, I have to say that they are potentially a game-changer for me once I work out how best to utilize them. Can you mix them with normal oil paint?
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Mar 6, 2019 08:10
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Fearless posted:The Lord of the Rings franchise was hugely lucrative for them and they reinvested a shitload of the profits of that into what is now probably the best-in-class plastic kit design and production setup out there right now. They're producing some insanely intricate (for tabletop wargames standards, anyways) kits that fit together with very little flash, warping or adjustment. The Imperial Knight kits for 40k, for instance, practically put themselves together. I did build a Valkyrie and baneblade that went together pretty well tbh. I watched a guy purchase a box of finecast stuff and 3 of the models had a defect in them. He repeated the same process twice more and out of 3 boxes didn’t have a complete set of models. I’m kinda glad I sold most of my stuff off because it all got invested in my pc and anything more will go towards hobby stuff like an airbrush setup
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Mar 6, 2019 09:09
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Ensign Expendable posted:I didn't know they made water soluble oil paints. I just buy the odourless turpentoid, a pint bottle lasts me for about two years. I didn't either, until literally last night.  I was originally going to go the route of using more traditional oils with turpenoid or what have you, but the idea of having something that can be cleaned up with ordinary soap and water appealed to me. Symetrique posted:Can you mix them with normal oil paint? From what I've read, they can be mixed with either oils or acrylics, as well as the various mediums/thinners for both types of paint, too. For example, last night I was just experimenting with a couple of tanks I had basecoated but not worked on, and I mixed some of the water-soluble paint (raw umber) with some water, a drop of Liquitex matte medium, a couple drops of Vallejo black ink, and some Liquitex slow dri, and made a wash. I gloss coated the tanks with some Duracoat polyurethane gloss, and once that was dry I put the wash on them, and it was probably the smoothest wash I've ever used. Hardly any pooling, everything went right into the recesses, and after it dried I was able to remove any excess wash with ordinary rubbing alcohol (used some paper towels or a cheap brush depending on where the excess wash was). I also experimented a little with the "dot streaking" method on one of the tanks, and liked how that came out too. I didn't think to take any pics (the tanks are currently soaking in some LA's Totally Awesome), but I can definitely see why people love doing weathering effects with oils, and I plan to pick up some more in the next couple of days (luckily my local Michael's has a "buy one W&N paint, get one for half off" sale going on).
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Mar 6, 2019 11:06
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I didn't either, until literally last night. I know back when I was hanging out on miniature painting forums a decade ago oil washes where taking off and a few of the guys switched to acrylic oils for their weathering cause it was easier to work with. They were doing some really nice work particularly in the faces of the figures because they require quite a few different colors to make things work properly. At the same time that was taking off by boss was an artist so he taught me a huge amount about color theory particularly in regards to color transparency and what paints would work together. If I end up doing tanks and aircraft I’ll probably start using some of the techniques again cause they’re fairly interesting
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Mar 6, 2019 11:24
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:I know back when I was hanging out on miniature painting forums a decade ago oil washes where taking off and a few of the guys switched to acrylic oils for their weathering cause it was easier to work with. They were doing some really nice work particularly in the faces of the figures because they require quite a few different colors to make things work properly. Yeah, just from messing around with the two colors I got last night, I'm already thinking about getting a larger-scale model and seeing what I can do with the water-soluble oils. I should add (beyond the usual "YMMV, of course" caveat for anyone who read my previous post) that they don't behave 100% like traditional oils might, in regards to drying time. Based on what I've read I'd say they're like 60/40 oil paint/acrylic paint; they dry somewhat faster than traditional oils would, but nowhere near as fast as a regular acrylic paint (again, YMMV). For stuff like wargaming minis and smaller-scale models, I definitely wouldn't replace my acrylics with them when it comes to things like basecoats or highlights or whatnot, but I definitely see their benefits for things like weathering and shading washes and glazes/filters.
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Mar 6, 2019 11:47
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Sydney Bottocks posted:From what I've read, they can be mixed with either oils or acrylics, as well as the various mediums/thinners for both types of paint, too. For example, last night I was just experimenting with a couple of tanks I had basecoated but not worked on, and I mixed some of the water-soluble paint (raw umber) with some water, a drop of Liquitex matte medium, a couple drops of Vallejo black ink, and some Liquitex slow dri, and made a wash. I gloss coated the tanks with some Duracoat polyurethane gloss, and once that was dry I put the wash on them, and it was probably the smoothest wash I've ever used. Hardly any pooling, everything went right into the recesses, and after it dried I was able to remove any excess wash with ordinary rubbing alcohol (used some paper towels or a cheap brush depending on where the excess wash was). I also experimented a little with the "dot streaking" method on one of the tanks, and liked how that came out too. I didn't think to take any pics (the tanks are currently soaking in some LA's Totally Awesome), but I can definitely see why people love doing weathering effects with oils, and I plan to pick up some more in the next couple of days (luckily my local Michael's has a "buy one W&N paint, get one for half off" sale going on). Good to know, thanks. I'll probably switch to these in the future. Ok, ran into two big problems with the SPAD. The H struts were about 1mm too long. I must have not thoroughly test fitted these early on. The second problem, is that one of the H struts kinda disintegrated while trying to test fit it. Gluing it wasnt gonna be enough, so I attempted to scratch build new ones out of brass tubing.  I (poorly) soldered the frame together, and will use some styrene and ca glue to fill out the struts after I finish cleaning up some of the excess solder and cut them down to size.
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Mar 7, 2019 02:56
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Tiny trains guys: Are there diagrams/layouts out there that also explain what to buy? I was looking at N-Scale stuff but it's really overwhelming, and the box sets are both boring and look like garbage you'd never use in a "real" layout. Is that wrong? Edit: Ideally I'd love to find something that said "This is a layout for a 4x8 board, and we recommend buying this track with this controller and here's some links where to purchase those."
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Mar 7, 2019 20:17
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doublepostin' I finished the 1/18 scale pizza I was working on:  Now it's time to make a little box for it.
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Mar 7, 2019 21:49
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ExtraNoise posted:doublepostin' Wow! That pizza looks crazy good. What did you make that from? Unrelated: my next project came in:  Castings look good, but we'll see how much I'll be able to ruin it.
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Mar 7, 2019 23:05
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If you aren't making it while lit as gently caress on vodka then I don't even want to hear about it.
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Mar 8, 2019 00:46
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ExtraNoise posted:doublepostin' I'm really envious of that detail. Did you deliver pizzas for a local place or a franchise? Curious to see what kind of box it will be. I also understand if you want to avoid making that tiny plastic table that keeps the lid of the box from touching the pizza. I wouldn't have the patience to measure the height and shape it accordingly.
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Mar 8, 2019 02:03
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If I paint a model with some basic acrylic paint, and throw on the decals, what options do I have down the line for weathering? This will be my first time painting, so I'm planning on keeping things simple, but it'd be nice to know I could always improve on it later if I got the urge.
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Mar 8, 2019 03:20
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Slugworth posted:If I paint a model with some basic acrylic paint, and throw on the decals, what options do I have down the line for weathering? This will be my first time painting, so I'm planning on keeping things simple, but it'd be nice to know I could always improve on it later if I got the urge. Lots? Do a spray on clear coat (acrylic) to protect everything you've done so far and then go hog wild. You could do oils, enamels, chalk or even pencils. The only thing I'd watch out for is some powered pigments and their fixers from what I've heard are really volatile and can strip to the bare plastic, so trying to remove them (and just them) if you don't like what they did can be dicey. Personally I like oils because you have ages to fiddle with it before it dries in place and doesn't interfere with the underlying acrylic because it thins/cleans using a different solvent.
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Mar 8, 2019 04:49
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Carth Dookie posted:Lots?
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Mar 8, 2019 05:21
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Kurvi Tasch posted:Wow! That pizza looks crazy good. What did you make that from? Why would a civilian airliner need a glass nose? edit, because the bomber version had one, and it carried a navigator, of course. yaffle fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Mar 8, 2019 |
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Mar 8, 2019 05:50
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 Gotta love engine detailing parts. Time to make the engine on this C9 look like the real thing.
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Mar 8, 2019 08:01
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Lol I just did the cockpit decals for the Tamiya bf109 and it's like a completely different experience to the academy kit. The decals just fall into place like nothing. I can't even believe it's the same process. What the gently caress academy 
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Mar 8, 2019 10:32
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Carth Dookie posted:Lol I just did the cockpit decals for the Tamiya bf109 and it's like a completely different experience to the academy kit. The decals just fall into place like nothing. I can't even believe it's the same process. What the gently caress academy Tamiya do occasionally do dud decals but that’s mostly their older poo poo in my experience. Like all things in this hobby some get it right others get it very very wrong and tamiya isn’t a company that generally gets things wrong
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Mar 8, 2019 10:47
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Yeah I was a little hesitant because the last time I had to deal with Tamiya decals they weren't so great. Then I realised they were from a kit made in the late 80s/early 90s which explained a lot. This kit is from around 2000 and it's easy as hell in contrast.
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Mar 8, 2019 10:57
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The only downside to Tamiya decals is that they tend to be pretty thick.
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Mar 8, 2019 11:05
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As a follow-up on my posts about the water-soluble oil paints I've been playing around with, here's a bit of a WIP on a 15mm Plastic Soldier Company T-34/76 turret.  Did the usual steps first after getting the inital painting done (acrylic gloss coat, decals, acrylic gloss coat again to protect the decals, applied paint chipping with a bit of acrylic paint & a piece of sponge, acrylic gloss coat a third time) before doing a shading wash with the oils. Then, after removing any excess wash and letting it sit for a bit, I put some blobs of the oil paints on a bit of cardboard (to soak up the excess oil) and started working on the streaks. Best part was, I didn't need any solvents like odorless thinner, rubbing alcohol, etc. to moisten the brush for the streaking process. Just dipped the brush into the mug of paint water, then got rid of the excess water on a paper towel, and it worked like a charm. Granted, for some people it might not yield as awesome of results as the more traditional oil paints might, but it works for me, so I'm happy enough.
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Mar 8, 2019 11:10
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   Almost there. Now I have to wait for my order of false eyelash glue to arrive to attach the last bits, and then cut the hair into shape better.
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Mar 8, 2019 11:11
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Hairdressing is not a skill I would have thought applicable to our hobby, but here we are. Looks cool.
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Mar 8, 2019 11:29
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Sydney Bottocks posted:As a follow-up on my posts about the water-soluble oil paints I've been playing around with, here's a bit of a WIP on a 15mm Plastic Soldier Company T-34/76 turret. Looks like an effective patina to me. Also that is a much smaller scale turret than most of us would work on.
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Mar 8, 2019 13:05
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Scut posted:Looks like an effective patina to me. Also that is a much smaller scale turret than most of us would work on. Thanks! Yeah, it's really whetting my appetite to work on something in a much larger scale now; I've found myself occasionally checking eBay for prices on larger-scale T-34s.
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Mar 8, 2019 14:55
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Thanks! Yeah, it's really whetting my appetite to work on something in a much larger scale now; I've found myself occasionally checking eBay for prices on larger-scale T-34s. What, like 1:1 scale?
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Mar 8, 2019 15:16
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