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gently caress I didn’t warm up sufficiently today and I had my ring finger pop while on a side pull. RICE it is 
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Mar 17, 2019 02:07
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Slimy Hog posted:Oh not not at all. Alex seems like a huge weirdo and from what I saw in Free Solo, his girlfriend seems to rank lower on his priority list than his breakfast. I watched Free Solo last night with my wife. Honnold absolutely comes across as cold, but it is glaringly obvious that he's not only somewhere on the spectrum, but he had a strange upbringing as well. So yeah, he's a total weirdo. You also have to cut him a little slack because in a lot of the scenes where he's a particular dick, he's days or even hours away from the biggest and most daunting undertaking of his life. In the scene where he's talking to Sani the night before he aborts his first attempt at free solo-ing El Capitan, even my wife was like, "Why in THE gently caress is she bringing this relationship poo poo up hours before he's about to free solo a giant cliff face?" She comes across as super needy and selfish right then. I understand she cares about him and she's scared too, but christ... you can see it written all over his face that he just wants her to stfu. Also, he wasn't even going to tell her about it to begin with because he specifically did not want to have that conversation right then. As far as caring more about climbing more than her, he absolutely does. He tells her this in the movie because she asks him. I mean, don't ask a guy like Alex Honnold a question like that and expect to get anything but the brutal truth. I think she knows him well enough to realize he's not going to sugar-coat anything.
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Mar 17, 2019 02:44
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M.C. McMic posted:I watched Free Solo last night with my wife. Honnold absolutely comes across as cold, but it is glaringly obvious that he's not only somewhere on the spectrum, but he had a strange upbringing as well. So yeah, he's a total weirdo. He has nothing on Ondra though. That guy has, uh, issues.
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Mar 17, 2019 08:10
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Baronash posted:If you're interested in how cavalier attitudes result in accidents, I'd suggest tracking down a recent edition of Accidents in North American Climbing (or their website). Thanks for the reminder, I remember seeing this and thought it would be great to have and just bought a copy on Amazon. For me my biggest problem is knowing when to call it a day or when to turn back. As a novice I err on the conservative side and occasionally wish to end a climb even if something "just doesn't feel right." A shorter, safe day is better than the alternative. Of course it could be argued I'm missing out, more frequently than necessary, on the biggest rewards of climbing, which is pushing your limits.
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Mar 17, 2019 15:50
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enraged_camel posted:He has nothing on Ondra though. That guy has, uh, issues. I really didn’t hear anything about Ondra; usually when he’s awkward in interviews I just chalk it up to language difference.
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Mar 17, 2019 16:58
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hangdogged the gently caress out of my first outdoor(anydoor) 11a, six pack o' whoop-rear end up at cactus cliff yesterday, but I got to the top and cleaned it for my crew flashed some easier stuff around the area, hung for a few on high-heeled titty twister but I had a good jam and didn't need to so I feel kinda dumb that I weighted at all, but that was also my first route of the day and the thin crack going into the crux wasn't really something I'd done before had some schadenfreude watching a substantially more experienced and braggardish climber hit it right after me and bail off the crux, said he "wasn't in the right mind" and then had his friend go up to clean it all in all a good time and more outdoor experience for me~
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Mar 18, 2019 04:43
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:For me my biggest problem is knowing when to call it a day or when to turn back. As a novice I err on the conservative side and occasionally wish to end a climb even if something "just doesn't feel right." A shorter, safe day is better than the alternative. Of course it could be argued I'm missing out, more frequently than necessary, on the biggest rewards of climbing, which is pushing your limits. There are old climbers, and there are bold climbers. I think the key is to go with a range of plans with decreasing commitment and challenge. If you back off plan A and then get your arse kicked by plan B then you've had a lucky escape and those are strong lessons. If you romp through plan B you know that next time plan A is a goer and you'll have a confidence boost. If you do plan B because plan A is busy, and finishing it you see that plan A is clear, so you go do plan A knowing it'll be a close run thing, then get the abseil ropes stuck, and charge down the scree just in time for the last lift with surprised chamois leaping out in front of you...Those are the best times.
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Mar 18, 2019 21:16
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chami posted:I really didn’t hear anything about Ondra; usually when he’s awkward in interviews I just chalk it up to language difference. You should watch Age of Ondra if you get a chance.
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Mar 18, 2019 23:26
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Endjinneer posted:There are old climbers, and there are bold climbers. There are a ton of old and bold climbers - they're just all really smart and proficient too. That is a stupid saying and people should stop saying it.
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Mar 19, 2019 06:08
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gohuskies posted:There are a ton of old and bold climbers - they're just all really smart and proficient too. That is a stupid saying and people should stop saying it. 
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Mar 20, 2019 00:17
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I know lots of old and dumb climbers who are alive by sheer luck. One of our local legends who basically invented climbing in the Bow Valley recently dropped someone in the gym by getting complacent with a grigri.
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Mar 20, 2019 03:19
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gohuskies posted:There are a ton of old and bold climbers - they're just all really smart and proficient too. That is a stupid saying and people should stop saying it. I can think of dead safe climbers and other exceptions too but that doesn't make the saying any less useful when someone's new to the game and isn't sure how close to their limit to push it. It takes a bit of experience to even know where that limit is.
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Mar 22, 2019 20:12
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Finally hit the golden ET tonight, felt less crowded for sure, but maybe that’s just timing? Overall the grades felt slightly stiffer than Englewood, but I don’t exactly know how to compare - there was a 10a I tried to warm up on where I felt like I was a half inch short of reaching the next holds so it was like trying to dyno out of an overhanging section onto slab which just didn’t work for the obvious reasons. Then I cruised up an “11+” which felt super juggy and obvious in comparison. Holds felt a bit less sticky too, more rubber and chalk buildup. I exhaled shapely at one point and there was like a tornado of chalk around me. Slabby bits felt a little more ‘real’ in their holds at any rate. Gonna try to hit something else outdoors Sunday if I can, spent the last two weekends working up and down Shelf.
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Mar 23, 2019 04:17
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I'm in an annoyingly ambiguous situation with rock shoe fit. I got La Sportiva Katakis, an aggressive leap from the Rogue 5-10s I've been using for three years. What I'm finding with the new Katakis is heel pinching that's somewhere in between unpleasant and painful. I'm torn between trying these out for a few more climbs to see if they expand enough to get rid of the issue, or to size up 0.5. I have no experience with an aggressive shoe with a special heel, so maybe I just need to get used to it? Blah.
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Mar 24, 2019 03:16
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:I'm in an annoyingly ambiguous situation with rock shoe fit. When trying to determine whether or not a climbing shoe will stretch, a simple thing to consider is whether the area in question is leather or rubber. If it is leather (or mostly leather) and the shoes are new, it will stretch some. If the area in question is mostly covered in rubber, it will not.
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Mar 24, 2019 03:48
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I got a pair of Vapor Vs in clearance that are probably a bit too small. It's wierd, I have to break them in for about 20mins every session and then they're ok for the next couple of hours. And yeah, they're covered in rubber so they didn't really stretch at all. I didn't know about that then which is why I bought them a bit tight.
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Mar 24, 2019 11:42
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I just started going to a climbing gym for the first time in about a decade. I was working on what was graded as an easy traverse sort of problem, but I couldn't figure it out. All of the holds seemed to be facing the wrong way for where I was trying to go. I banged my head against it for a few days, trying crazier and crazier moves to finish the thing. Then I saw a much better climber warming up on it. Turns out I was starting at the end point and trying to do it backwards.
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Mar 24, 2019 14:44
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Jester Mcgee posted:I just started going to a climbing gym for the first time in about a decade. I was working on what was graded as an easy traverse sort of problem, but I couldn't figure it out. All of the holds seemed to be facing the wrong way for where I was trying to go. I banged my head against it for a few days, trying crazier and crazier moves to finish the thing. Then I saw a much better climber warming up on it. Turns out I was starting at the end point and trying to do it backwards. That is pretty funny.
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Mar 24, 2019 14:50
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Keep in mind that feet can shrink over time too, to accommodate smaller shoes . . . If you're willing to put up with pain for a while. I have a pair of scarpas that were absolutely too small for me when I bought them, I couldn't even walk with them on at all. Over time, my feet fit into them better, and now they are one of my best pairs of shoes. Not in small part due to the fact that they are smaller (and can grab onto smaller holds) than any other pairs I have. Synthetic upper, so no shoe stretch
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Mar 24, 2019 15:37
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Ubiquitus posted:Keep in mind that feet can shrink over time too, to accommodate smaller shoes . . . If you're willing to put up with pain for a while. For real? I'm sure the shoes just stretched out. Or is that the joke?
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Mar 25, 2019 00:51
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Betazoid posted:For real? I'm sure the shoes just stretched out. Or is that the joke? Idk, totally anecdotal, but my shoe size has definitely shrunk since climbing Some other people I know have said the same I mean old people shrink too, and Chinese foot binding is a thing . . . But physiologically I have no idea what the structural change would involve 
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Mar 25, 2019 01:21
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Ubiquitus posted:Idk, totally anecdotal, but my shoe size has definitely shrunk since climbing Your feet can get smaller if you lose a lot of weight (I wear a whole street size down from when I was overweight). Less weight-> less pressure on the, what, 33 bones in your feet? -> less foot spread. As far as climbing specifically, if the muscles in your foot get stronger, the muscles will pull the arches in. Same overall effect: less foot spread. Start wearing barefoot shoes too to really see some amazing shrinking feet!
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Mar 25, 2019 01:53
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Foot binding is a thing so yea shoving your foot into a tiny rear end shoe I can see shrinking
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Mar 25, 2019 03:19
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well, our will weakened in the face of cold winds and rain at our intended spot, so we just did laps on a couple of 9s while it was still niceish, then I learned to rap and practiced placing trad gear on a sheltered flake for the rest of the afternoon just as well, my hands have felt a little crunchy this past week between several days at shelf road and two gym days I’m also already lusting after a ‘better’ pair of shoes, but drat, I’m still leaching dye off my first pair
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Mar 25, 2019 03:51
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Hey guys, Is there a resource online that anyone would recommend for dealing with possible pulley injuries? When I contract my left index finger, I get a sharp pain between the middle two knuckles on my finger, which according to this suggests it could be the A4 pulley being slightly injured. Interestingly I hadn't climbed for around 3 weeks before this started - it seemingly came out of nowhere. I then climbed the day after it started, and that hasn't made it worse. The pain is at the top side of my finger, not underneath. Thanks! DrAlexanderTobacco fucked around with this message at 12:19 on Mar 25, 2019 |
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Mar 25, 2019 12:16
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DrAlexanderTobacco posted:Hey guys, The page that image is from is a great resource on how to heal a pulley injury: https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/experience-story?cid=esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries quote:I then climbed the day after it started, and that hasn't made it worse. The pain is at the top side of my finger, not underneath. That doesn’t really sound like a pulley injury to me, but I’m not an expert
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Mar 25, 2019 14:34
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DrAlexanderTobacco posted:The pain is at the top side of my finger, not underneath. That’s not a pulley injury. Go to a doctor if it hurts doing normal everyday things or doesn’t start to get better after a few days.
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Mar 25, 2019 14:38
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While were talking about finger injuries. My middle finger will sometime lock up during the night at the middle joint. It precedes climbing by a few years, but it does happen a bit more frequently now that I started climbing . I can straighten it back without pain and it never happens during the day. I have no pain ever, not even during climbing, but the underside of my finger is slightly tender if I massage it hard. I never really bothered finding out what it is since it’s not a problem in my life at all, but since I’m climbing now I guess I should be more cautious
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Mar 25, 2019 15:01
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KingColliwog posted:While were talking about finger injuries. Look up "trigger finger". It sounds like it could be that. Basically a swollen nodule on the tendon on the underside of the finger, which gets caught on a pulley when you extend your finger.
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Mar 25, 2019 15:13
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armorer posted:Look up "trigger finger". It sounds like it could be that. Basically a swollen nodule on the tendon on the underside of the finger, which gets caught on a pulley when you extend your finger. Thanks. After some reading that seems to be what I have. Doesn’t seem to be much of a problem until it becomes one. I’ll talk to my physic about it next time I see her to see if there’s stuff I can do to help, but I'll keep climbing in the mean time. Thanks
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Mar 25, 2019 16:46
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KingColliwog posted:Thanks. After some reading that seems to be what I have. Doesn’t seem to be much of a problem until it becomes one. I’ll talk to my physic about it next time I see her to see if there’s stuff I can do to help, but I'll keep climbing in the mean time. Thanks It can be aggravated by impact to the swollen area, so basically try not to slap at slopers/blocks with that hand.
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Mar 25, 2019 16:52
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any of y'all wear katanas? i need a sportier shoe than my mythos' for gettin rad on the harder stuff. the mythos' fit my feet perfectly, miuras absolutely do not, if the katana is shaped anything like them.
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Mar 28, 2019 05:13
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kalvanoo posted:any of y'all wear katanas? i need a sportier shoe than my mythos' for gettin rad on the harder stuff. the mythos' fit my feet perfectly, miuras absolutely do not, if the katana is shaped anything like them. They’re kinda in between. My toes are way too squished in the Muira but are snug in the katana. They’re a good all around shoe.
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Mar 28, 2019 14:35
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Katana is my favourite shoe by a mile. I've had like 4 pairs over the years and will help buying them as long as I can
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Mar 28, 2019 19:21
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So I began climbing a month ago and I really liked the feedback from my first time so here’s where I’m at now on my favorite v3. Any glaring problems or specific stuff that I could focus on. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AG4pJqo1CPo Little extra thing that I’d like input on. I train 2 to 3 times a week for anywhere between 1h30 to 2h30 and I tend to do the following : 1x just messing around and having fun doing whatever problem I feel like and socializing/doing problems with fun people 1x 20-30mmins projecting then 4x4 and then messing around with whatever drills I find online and want to if I have some time/energy left 1x 20-30 mins projecting and then mostly repeating stuff I can already do and try to go through them more effectively and/or doing easy crimpy stuff because my finger strength is abysmal. Or top roping to get rid of my fear of height Does that sound like a good way to keep progressing as a beginner? KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 20:32 on Mar 28, 2019 |
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Mar 28, 2019 19:37
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:What I'm finding with the new Katakis is heel pinching that's somewhere in between unpleasant and painful. I'm torn between trying these out for a few more climbs to see if they expand enough to get rid of the issue, or to size up 0.5. Thought I'd provide an update on this. Took advantage of BackCountry's excellent return policy and sized up 0.5. The pain while mild did not go away with the prior pair after a few days at the gym. +0.5 fixed it. Just anecdotal and I know situations vary
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Mar 28, 2019 21:55
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kalvanoo posted:any of y'all wear katanas? i need a sportier shoe than my mythos' for gettin rad on the harder stuff. the mythos' fit my feet perfectly, miuras absolutely do not, if the katana is shaped anything like them. Katana Lace may fit you better than Katana Velcro. They are not equal, so try them on to see which one fits better.
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Mar 28, 2019 22:30
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:Thought I'd provide an update on this. Took advantage of BackCountry's excellent return policy and sized up 0.5. The pain while mild did not go away with the prior pair after a few days at the gym. I loving love my katakis Went through the exact same thing as you My previous shoes were muiras and the Katakis are far superior in basically every way
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Mar 29, 2019 01:17
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KingColliwog posted:Any glaring problems or specific stuff that I could focus on. You readjust your hands a lot. Think about that route, in pure minimal moves I think 10 hand movements could do it. I counted 29 hand movements. What you are doing mostly sounds like just having fun climbing and that is a great way to progress right now for you so I would keep at it.
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Mar 29, 2019 01:23
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spwrozek posted:You readjust your hands a lot. Think about that route, in pure minimal moves I think 10 hand movements could do it. I counted 29 hand movements. Agreed on both counts. Looks like a fun problem, and even though you can get more efficient with hand movements, I thought your lower body movements and technique looked much better than the first vid you posted. Nice!
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Mar 31, 2019 15:56
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