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What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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| Perennials! |
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142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
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30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
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62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
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171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
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60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
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31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
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183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
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That's a great space! I'd be excited to start my spring gardening there, too, if I were you. 
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Mar 28, 2019 20:56
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Hirayuki posted:That's a great space! I'd be excited to start my spring gardening there, too, if I were you. I'm in a holding pattern until I see if any other tenants want to fill in some space (it is a shared space, though without power or plumbing it pretty much is only shared amongst the people on the top floor who can run extension cables out windows or carry water up 1 flight), and figuring out exactly how much effort it takes to lug water up for this already. Over the summer the roof is pretty much 80+ and sunny all day every day, plants get pretty thirsty.
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Mar 28, 2019 21:16
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The lighting makes that photo look like a render.
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Mar 28, 2019 21:20
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Fitzy Fitz posted:The lighting makes that photo look like a render. Lol yeah, that and the fact that the tile looks suspiciously like a 3D texture from the 90s. Space kinda owns though. If you could figure out the water, you could set up some raised vegetable beds. Have you thought about capturing rain water somehow?
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Mar 28, 2019 21:28
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Lead out in cuffs posted:Lol yeah, that and the fact that the tile looks suspiciously like a 3D texture from the 90s. If I do anything it is going to be buying a better water pump so i can fill my tub and lift it up. My apartment is directly below all of that, so my wifi/eletric/water is nearby. Gonna give everything a few weeks to see how I feel about it before deciding on doing any kind of raised bed/anything else. That kiddie pool on the left of the shot is going to get hit hard with some grass seed and Cid is going to have his own little patch of lawn.
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Mar 28, 2019 21:41
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Nephzinho posted:If I do anything it is going to be buying a better water pump so i can fill my tub and lift it up. My apartment is directly below all of that, so my wifi/eletric/water is nearby. We were talking about water pumps before, but given that you are directly below it I have to wonder if you wouldn't be better off with a threaded faucet connector and a garden hose? Your should have no problem getting reasonable flow up there -- just add a shut-off to the business end of the hose for control up top.
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Mar 29, 2019 03:50
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Hubis posted:We were talking about water pumps before, but given that you are directly below it I have to wonder if you wouldn't be better off with a threaded faucet connector and a garden hose? Your should have no problem getting reasonable flow up there -- just add a shut-off to the business end of the hose for control up top. Lol I'm getting weird deja vu
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Mar 29, 2019 17:46
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One of my neighbors gave up gardening years ago and left a hose on the roof with some weird plastic tubing that has been collecting dust, wouldn't hurt to try. Otherwise it seems like there are a lot of things in the $40-60 range that claim to do it, just a question of whether they break instantly/are lying.
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Mar 29, 2019 17:54
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Anyone have any recommendations for landscaping design software? Everything I can find has terrible reviews, and I'm wondering if any good software even exists.
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Mar 29, 2019 19:04
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Nephzinho posted:Gonna give everything a few weeks to see how I feel about it before deciding on doing any kind of raised bed/anything else. This is definitely a good idea -- a space like that is a long-term project. Nephzinho posted:One of my neighbors gave up gardening years ago and left a hose on the roof with some weird plastic tubing that has been collecting dust, wouldn't hurt to try. Otherwise it seems like there are a lot of things in the $40-60 range that claim to do it, just a question of whether they break instantly/are lying. This sounds like a good plan -- a few hose connectors and a hose are pretty cheap. Since you're in NYC (IIRC), just don't forget to turn it off (and bleed it) as soon as winter hits. You do not want a burst pipe on the roof of your apartment building.
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Mar 29, 2019 20:18
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Lead out in cuffs posted:This is definitely a good idea -- a space like that is a long-term project. Oh yeah, I don't leave anything but some of the perennials up there all winter. I'm actually thinking of building a small greenhouse up there next winter to make inter-seasons a bit less brutal on some of the more fragile things and maybe open up some new options, I'm in a rent stabilized place I'll be in for years. If i were to ever do something more permanent for water I'd probably do a rain barrel with a hose out that fed into a pump that would then do tubes through planters/beds that I could just flick a switch to power on, and run the hose up to refill the barrel when it ran low. That is definitely a next year project, though.
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Mar 29, 2019 21:02
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Can anyone identify these plants? They have been popping up all over the place in northern Virginia over the past two weeks, but only in areas with flowing water. I believe we're getting close to the season for wild ramps, but these don't look like the ramps I'm familiar with. When ripped they have a garlicy smell, but since I wasn't sure what they were I was too chicken to taste them. Any ideas?  
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Mar 29, 2019 21:07
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SpartanIvy posted:Anyone have any recommendations for landscaping design software? Everything I can find has terrible reviews, and I'm wondering if any good software even exists. Pen and paper is still king here, IMO. Maybe some lovely free CAD software for structural stuff.
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Mar 29, 2019 21:08
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kedo posted:Any ideas? My first inclination was Symplocarpus foetidus, which around here goes by the name “skunk cabbage”. It’s one of the few thermogenic plants that can raise their temperature up to over 70F, even when the surrounding temperatures are much colder.
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Mar 29, 2019 21:30
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Hmmm, I think you might be right! Strangely it didn't smell that bad, and it didn't smell at all until I broke one of the stalks in half and then I thought it actually smelled pretty good. Maybe I have a terrible nose?
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Mar 29, 2019 22:01
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I've been growing a lot of cacti from seeds (can't control myself, I have a few thousand seedlings and I have no idea what I'll do with them when they get bigger) so I thought I should make a dry, warm space for them in the yard. I'm pretty proud of my handy work so I wanted to share! This was the space in my yard that I cleared for the cactus house:  And after a few day's work here's what I built (with some help from my father...):  And some of my seedlings tucked away in the back corner of the cactus house. 
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Mar 29, 2019 23:09
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This is amazing! Just a heads up, I had a similar shelf like that that the plastic joints shattered on. If it gets windy or if you plan on adding too much weight to it, heads up to reinforce the plastic bits.
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Mar 29, 2019 23:15
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It never ceases to amaze me how much I suck at woodworking, because something that would take me a month takes you “a couple days”.  That looks great.
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Mar 29, 2019 23:18
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That is cute as heck. Great greenhouse, too
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Mar 29, 2019 23:25
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What I wouldn't give to be able to plant cacti in my garden. I don't suppose anyone knows of any species that can tolerate -20C? As it happens, I just ordered a bunch of cacti and succulent seeds pretty much at random. I've never started succulents from seed before, it'll certainly be an interesting experience.
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Mar 29, 2019 23:28
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Catpain Slack posted:I don't suppose anyone knows of any species that can tolerate -20C? Prickly pear (Opuntia). Mine come back every spring after sub-zero °F winters.
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Mar 30, 2019 00:11
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ragle posted:Prickly pear (Opuntia). Mine come back every spring after sub-zero °F winters. That's neat, I never even thought to check if some cacti can handle that. I'd think most northern climes would get way too much water, though, unless they're under something
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Mar 30, 2019 00:36
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ragle posted:Prickly pear (Opuntia). Mine come back every spring after sub-zero °F winters. You don't say! I wish I had known this before I ordered seeds, now I have to test this.
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Mar 30, 2019 00:58
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My dad got a gift card from a local plant nursery, and now we’re thinking about planting a fruit tree or two in our backyard. Right now I want to plant a gala apple tree on the north side of our yard, in an area that I THINK is technically full sun but has a little bit of tree branch cover overhead, and some sort of Georgia peach tree on the southwest corner, which gets a lot more sunlight and has virtually no tree branch cover. I also want to plant some grape soda trees along the west edge of the yard, for which father will surely thank me when they bloom next year (although it sucks major rear end that they only bloom for about 2 or 3 weeks out of the year). Questions: 1. Is a north-side-of-the-yard spot with slight tree branch cover an okay spot for an apple tree? I can take a photo of the tree cover if I need to to show what I’m working with. 2. The spot I want to plant the apple tree in has a random tree growing in it already. How long should I wait after removing that tree before planting the apple tree? I’m assuming the soil needs time to resupply nutrients? 3. Do Georgia peach trees need a second tree to pollenate with? 4. The area I want to plant the peach tree in has a bradford pear tree growing nearby. How far from the bradford pear should I plant the peach tree? I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Mar 31, 2019 |
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Mar 31, 2019 18:11
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I. M. Gei posted:My dad got a gift card from a local plant nursery, and now we’re thinking about planting a fruit tree or two in our backyard. You should be able to plant where the old tree was immediately if it is small. If it's a stump that has to be ground, it's going to take a few years for all that to rot down. For your new tree, dig a big wide hole 3x as wide as the root ball and add some compost to your native dirt. IIRC, most peaches are self-fertile and don't need a pollinator, but a different variety will usually increase yields. I'd ask at the nursery to make sure whatever you are picking is self-pollinating. I think apples are not usually self pollinating, so it is best to have two compatible varieties. You should just cut down the bradford pear. Otherwise, make sure it is outside the furthest branches of the tree.
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Mar 31, 2019 18:40
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:What zone/area are you in? Chill hours are important to a lot of fruit trees (especially apples) so make sure your area usually gets enough chill hours for the varieties you're looking at planting. Full sun is usually better for fruit trees, but some light shade probably won't hurt it. If you're marginal with regards to chill hours or in an area where late frosts will freeze flowers, location/facing can become more important to help find a colder/warmer spot. I’m in Zone 8B, in east/northeast Texas. I’m not sure how many chill hours this area gets exactly; if there’s a way to look that up I’d love to know about it. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You should be able to plant where the old tree was immediately if it is small. If it's a stump that has to be ground, it's going to take a few years for all that to rot down. It’s not exactly small, but it’s not huge either. I think the trunk is maybe 5 or 6 inches in diameter at it’s thickest point, give or take. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think apples are not usually self pollinating, so it is best to have two compatible varieties. Gala apples are, at least according to the tags at the nursery. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You should just cut down the bradford pear. Otherwise, make sure it is outside the furthest branches of the tree. Sorry, that ain’t happenin’. It’ll be a bit of a squeeze, but I think I know a spot where they’ll both have enough space to grow. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Mar 31, 2019 |
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Mar 31, 2019 19:37
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https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/peach/fig1.html It looks like Gala's only need 500ish hours. Apples in the south like to get fire blight, so watch out for it. This might help you too: https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/homefruit/apple/apple.html
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Mar 31, 2019 20:44
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According to this, I should be good on chill hours for both trees.
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Mar 31, 2019 23:50
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I had a big problem with Japanese Beetles on my maple trees last year. This year I would like to get ahead of that problem. Any ideas on what the best solution is? Nematodes, Milky Spore, Traps, Pesticides or some combo of them?
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Apr 1, 2019 13:52
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extravadanza posted:I had a big problem with Japanese Beetles on my maple trees last year. This year I would like to get ahead of that problem. Any ideas on what the best solution is? Nematodes, Milky Spore, Traps, Pesticides or some combo of them? Milky Spore was literally invented to destroy them. It's actually an extremely interesting* story. *: to nerdy plant-dads like me
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Apr 1, 2019 16:44
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I have other tree questions. About 3 years ago, my parents planted two trees in out front yard, a tulip tree and a dogwood tree. The tulip tree is in the middle of the lawn and has hella leaves and flowers. The dogwood tree is in a patch of jasmine, has never bloomed once, is currently a short bare stick with maybe five tiny leaves on it total, and for all I know might be dead now, and I’m trying to figure out why. Location is not the problem. It’s in the exact same spot where there used to be a much bigger dogwood that may have predated us at this house and bloomed like crazy every year, but was sadly killed by ants (btw gently caress all ants, everywhere on earth, forever) and cut down about a decade ago. However, that older dogwood was planted long before the jasmine surrounding it was, whereas this current one went in the ground long after the jasmine had established itself. I’m wondering if the jasmine is keeping the dogwood tree from growing by hogging nutrients and/or taking up all the space in the soil. Could this be what’s happening? I’d also like some tips for pruning the tulip tree, because right now it’s more like a short little tulip bush.
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Apr 1, 2019 20:10
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Might bring my lemon trees back inside, the wind and slight chill have been miserable this week. Tomato saplings, they'll survive or they won't and worst case I lose like $3 and my headstart on growing. Lemon trees are a litlte more established/delicate. CURSE YOU LATE COLD WEATHER.
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Apr 1, 2019 20:53
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I planted a few containers last spring with drought hardy flowering plants, specifically Agastache varieties. On the advice of the internet, I let the dead stems stand all winter "so birds could eat the seeds". All of them came back this spring and today, I went to go pinch the stems and clear out what I thought were some weeds growing in the containers. To my surprise, I realize that almost every single one of the "weeds" was actually a sprouted and growing Agastache seedling! I'm tempted to leave them as I ended up wishing I had planted more of them in each pot last year, as they grow fairly spindly and it wasn't as thick as I wanted. Should I just let them grow and nature takes its course, or should I thin them out at some point? Maybe wait til they get bigger and try to transplant?
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Apr 2, 2019 02:18
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I. M. Gei posted:I have other tree questions. Post a picture of your poplar. Generally, prune off branches with narrow, V shaped crotches (u shaped ones are good) if two branches cross/rub, cut the lower one. Open grown tulip poplars will be bushier/more conical than the big tall straight ones you see in the woods, but by limbing them up you can force them to grow up more than out. Tulip trees usually have good natural branch structure and shouldn’t need much pruning for structure, unlike your Bradford pear. It’s waaaau easier and better for the tree to prune with clippers while they’re young than prune with a chainsaw when they’re old.
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Apr 2, 2019 03:00
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I’ll try to remember to grab a photo of the tulip tree tomorrow.Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Dogwoods are very difficult and temperamental, especially to get started. The jasmine probably isn’t helping, but it could be that when the old dogwood started growing it was much shadier, and the new one burned up. Older, established dogwoods can take a lot more sun than young ones. There’s all kinds of diseases that attack dogwoods, and probably the ants were a symptom of a weak, stressed tree rather than the cause of death. Some of whatever killed the old one could be hanging around there too. Dogwoods are also very particular about drainage and won’t tolerate being planted too deep or wet feet. I didn’t know any of this. I think you may be right about the shade thing; I’m pretty sure there did used to be more shade in that area. I want to say there’s been at least one huge oak tree cut down around that spot since we moved in to this house. Is there anything I can do to increase shade around a new tree, or to check for and fix possible disease and drainage issues? I love gardening and landscaping, but I have bupkis experience actually doing either. EDIT: Bugs might also be an issue. We’ve been finding a lot of grubs in various parts of our yard lately. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Apr 2, 2019 |
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Apr 2, 2019 03:58
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Pics of green stuff on my trip to HK. First two are from the Chi Lin Nunnery which has a fantastic garden. Rest are from the flower markets and the giant teapot from the tea museum.      
Synthbuttrange fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Apr 2, 2019 |
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Apr 2, 2019 06:41
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There wouldn’t happen to be a device out there that I can put in a garden to measure the number of hours of sunlight per day a particular spot gets, would there?
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Apr 2, 2019 07:38
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https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1875-Rapitest-Calculator/dp/B002XZLLXU https://www.gardenmyths.com/sunlight-calculator-useless-product/ :v
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Apr 2, 2019 07:40
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I think it's also worth mentioning that the native dogwoods (Cornus florida) are very, very slow growing even under ideal conditions. I have one I planted about 5 years ago, it was 4 feet tall then and it's 6 feet tall now. Whereas the Kousa dogwood I planted 3 years ago is already more than double the size of the native one.
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Apr 2, 2019 15:11
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Has anyone had experience with Itoh peonies? I bought one for admittedly hard shade after I saw one flourishing in a shade garden, but I'm thinking it needs a tad more light than it's been getting: it's been about three, maybe four years and I've gotten zero buds/blooms and now only meager leaves. (The owner of the nursery where I bought it--on his recommendation--did offer to swap it for a known bloomer, but I'd rather try to make the one I have work. Besides, who knows if the replacement plant would be just as unhappy in that same spot?) Last weekend's dusting of snow is mostly melted here and our maple is budding. Is it too early to move the peony, and are there any other things I should keep in mind as I do?
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Apr 2, 2019 16:54
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