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I use ethanol (ethyl alcohol), just because that one is way easier to get everywhere in Europe than isopropyl alcohol (pretty much every supermarket and druggist has it). It's used in labs to clean equipment, it's fine for CPU usage.
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Apr 14, 2019 23:47
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I've pretty much only used 99.5% isopropanol. I got a 250ml bottle for like 10€, it's lasted for years and it's still more than half full. I seem to remember using acetone a few times long ago though. e: Lambert posted:I use ethanol (ethyl alcohol), just because that one is way easier to get everywhere in Europe than isopropyl alcohol (pretty much every supermarket and druggist has it). It's used in labs to clean equipment, it's fine for CPU usage. I dunno why I never thought of that, denaturated ethanol is cheap and readily available here too. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Apr 14, 2019 |
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Apr 14, 2019 23:48
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Any isopropyl achohol 70% and up works the best in my experience (70% doesn't evaporate as quickly and needs more manual drying but it's still small amounts).
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Apr 14, 2019 23:49
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Cool. Seems like isopropanol alcohol is the way to go, then. I'll make the switch from cheap nail varnish remover. It's always served me well and dries quick but I guess there's a chance of residue, depending on where you get it and how cheaply made it is. Thanks.
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Apr 15, 2019 00:30
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Nail polish remover is just scented acetone, probably not best bang for your buck.
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Apr 15, 2019 03:40
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Acetone is a stronger solvent than rubbing alcohol, acetone is more likely to cause damage to plastic or possibly other components. Simply put, I would avoid it if say the CPU is in the plastic socket, or if you're trying to clan a heat sink with plastic bits anywhere. Add to that nail polish remover is acetone with an oil for nail health and I would have doubts about the purity of the acetone when buying it. As for rubbing alcohol, 70% is for disinfecting and 90% is for cleaning. Supposedly if you use 90% to try to disinfect, the 90% alcohol will kinda singe the cell wall and leave the middle protected, kinda like how if you just throw a steak on a hot pan it will make the outside black but leave the inside red.
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Apr 15, 2019 03:55
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I'm 100% sure you're just repeating someone who actually knows something about sporulation and sanitation. Anyway, iso or ethyl alcohol both work great in most common concentrations. So does a rag, watch out for lint!
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Apr 15, 2019 10:32
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Crotch Fruit posted:Acetone is a stronger solvent than rubbing alcohol, acetone is more likely to cause damage to plastic or possibly other components. Simply put, I would avoid it if say the CPU is in the plastic socket, or if you're trying to clan a heat sink with plastic bits anywhere. Add to that nail polish remover is acetone with an oil for nail health and I would have doubts about the purity of the acetone when buying it. Nail polish remover frequently comes in 100% acetone configurations. Usually any given brand will have a 100% acetone, acetone+oil, and non-acetone range. Old ladies are scared of acetone, nail art people know to not gently caress around and just go for the straight acetone and be careful. What I would worry about is the bottle type more than anything, I wouldn't want to use a cotton pad or q-tip on a CPU heatspreader, even if press tops are best for nail work.
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Apr 15, 2019 14:50
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Hi guys, is there a huge/noticeable difference between the 8th gen and 9th gen of Intel chips? I'm looking at buying a new Sager laptop for work which requires a lot of video processing power. There's a huge price difference between the 8th gen and 9th gen Intel chips but will I be ok with the 8th gen or should I go for the 9th gen for my purposes?
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Apr 15, 2019 18:01
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apropos man posted:This is sort of a stupid question to ask, since I've been adding and removing CPU's from motherboards for..... probably two decades. Dry, particle-y red wine followed by ethanol. Not even making GBS threads you. The abbraision wine offers is incredible.
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Apr 17, 2019 22:34
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Pour some sugar on AMD
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Apr 17, 2019 22:45
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Potato Salad posted:Dry, particle-y red wine followed by ethanol. How do you get particle wine? Is that the stuff which clings round the neck/base of the bottle when you go to tidy up the next morning?
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Apr 18, 2019 08:33
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settles to the bottom
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Apr 18, 2019 10:48
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Ah. As an ex-problem drinker, I've tried slapping the base of the bottle to get that into me a few times.
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Apr 18, 2019 14:25
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In a pinch I have used the lens wipe things you get from Opticians and hand sanitiser on a coffee filter.
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Apr 18, 2019 14:43
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To drink or wipe a CPU?
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Apr 18, 2019 15:01
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Should I pair this with steak or with silicon?
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Apr 18, 2019 20:39
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Amazon is having a lightning deal on this Netgear CM500 modem. My modem (Arris TM1602) apparently has a problematic chipset (Puma) but I personally have not noticed anything wrong with it. Would it be dumb to buy the Netgear one if mine is working fine and I'm not paying a rental fee for it?
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Apr 19, 2019 05:42
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I have a MSI B450-A Pro with a Geforce GT710 for my ESXi setup. If I put either of my GPUs into PCI_E1, the slot nearest the CPU, then ESXi finds it but won't let me boot the VM with it. If the GPU is in the PCI_E4 then it boots just fine. What can I deduce from this? Given the motherboard detects the GPU and it outputs for example the POST things via HDMI would I be right in assuming the slot can't be damaged? Or could it still be damaged and it just not be bad enough to stop it being noticed completely? How do I test that short of RMAing the motherboard? Current idea is maybe to boot Linux off a USB and stress test the GPU?
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Apr 19, 2019 23:09
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I have an EVGA Torq X3 mouse (that I won) and just recently bought a new PC with Windows 10. I've found that there's about a 25% chance that whenever I wake my machine from sleep (tapping the keyboard) that the mouse cursor has disappeared and the only way to bring it back is to unplug the mouse and plug it back in. Windows is set to not power it off and the LED on the mouse is lit when the PC is woken up, and it has the latest driver and firmware. However, in Device Manager it is listed as a Microsoft HID-compliant mouse. Is this normal, rather than showing the EVGA brand? It lists the MS driver from 2006 rather than the EVGA one that their tool reports as being installed. Also, I just tested sleep/wake with Device Manager open and it lists the mouse as still being attached even though it doesn't respond and no cursor is visible (it isn't just invisible either, as far as I can tell) - it doesn't disappear from DM when I hit refresh using the keyboard to navigate. Another data point is that it seems if I wake the PC by hitting the mouse button it is always detected ok. Is my solution to this "always wake your PC using the mouse?" That's fine I guess, but not really a solution.
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Apr 21, 2019 23:00
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Is there a consensus on what is the better option for a wireless mouse, used for gaming, between going bluetooth or RF/USB dongle?
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May 9, 2019 05:56
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Tehran 1979 posted:Is there a consensus on what is the better option for a wireless mouse, used for gaming, between going bluetooth or RF/USB dongle? Buy a G Pro Wireless
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May 9, 2019 06:00
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Tehran 1979 posted:Is there a consensus on what is the better option for a wireless mouse, used for gaming, between going bluetooth or RF/USB dongle? Bluetooth has some inherent latency so one with a dongle will be superior (there's theoretical low latency bluetooth but last time Goo posted about it even logitech couldn't find a reasonably priced transceiver for it).
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May 9, 2019 06:05
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Rexxed posted:Bluetooth has some inherent latency so one with a dongle will be superior (there's theoretical low latency bluetooth but last time Goo posted about it even logitech couldn't find a reasonably priced transceiver for it). Thank you. Endymion FRS MK1 posted:Buy a G Pro Wireless Bit too pricey, planning to go with a Mx Master 25 because I also like having the option of throwing a weighted brick for self defense.
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May 9, 2019 06:18
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Is there a Bluetooth receiver that allows me to use a Bluetooth keyboard even when the OS doesn't provide support (like during installation or in the UEFI?). Seems like this functionality exists in theory, but no stick seems to support it?
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May 9, 2019 09:53
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Lambert posted:Is there a Bluetooth receiver that allows me to use a Bluetooth keyboard even when the OS doesn't provide support (like during installation or in the UEFI?). Seems like this functionality exists in theory, but no stick seems to support it? I don't think that's a thing I've seen as a product. You're right that it's a theoretical possibility with a device that acts like a regular USB HID but connects over bluetooth, but the computer would have to see it as a keyboard not a bluetooth transceiver. You could probably make one with an arduino and a bluetooth board like the HC-06 but I don't think you'd save that much money or time over just getting a cheap rf with usb dongle keyboard.
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May 9, 2019 10:29
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Rexxed posted:I don't think that's a thing I've seen as a product. You're right that it's a theoretical possibility with a device that acts like a regular USB HID but connects over bluetooth, but the computer would have to see it as a keyboard not a bluetooth transceiver. You could probably make one with an arduino and a bluetooth board like the HC-06 but I don't think you'd save that much money or time over just getting a cheap rf with usb dongle keyboard. I've seen a Creative Labs audio adapter that does just that, but not one for any other peripherals. You're right, a keyboard with its own proprietary adapter is the only way to go here.
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May 10, 2019 02:38
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edit: Lol my headphones are cursed apparently, and unplugging them fixed it
icantfindaname fucked around with this message at 03:44 on May 10, 2019 |
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May 10, 2019 02:57
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For anybody stuck on LGA 1150 or DDR3 etc: https://slickdeals.net/f/13072333-intel-core-i5-9400f-6-core-processor-cpu-asrock-b365m-pro4-motherboard-189-98?src=frontpage and https://slickdeals.net/f/13065793-16gb-2x-8-team-t-force-delta-ii-rgb-ddr4-3000-desktop-memory-kit-80-newegg?src=catpagev2 $270 for mobo/16 GB DDR4 3000/i5 - you can probably sell your old haswell/ddr3 poo poo for pretty drat near close to that.
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May 10, 2019 22:29
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I've got a set of refurbished AudioEngine A2+ speakers that I got back in late 2015 and I run them off USB with the built in DAC. For the last couple of months I've been getting a lot of static on them when gaming. If my GPU isn't being stressed then there is no problem, but the moment I fire up a game the sound starts, and it almost sounds like coil whine, but I've confirmed it's the speakers and not my GPU doing it. I haven't done a lot of troubleshooting yet because I'm not really sure where to start.
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May 11, 2019 01:08
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Branch Nvidian posted:I've got a set of refurbished AudioEngine A2+ speakers that I got back in late 2015 and I run them off USB with the built in DAC. For the last couple of months I've been getting a lot of static on them when gaming. If my GPU isn't being stressed then there is no problem, but the moment I fire up a game the sound starts, and it almost sounds like coil whine, but I've confirmed it's the speakers and not my GPU doing it. I haven't done a lot of troubleshooting yet because I'm not really sure where to start. Plug them in to a USB hub (lots of monitors have one built in these days), or anything that pulls power from a separate source than the computer itself.
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May 11, 2019 01:21
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Indiana_Krom posted:Plug them in to a USB hub (lots of monitors have one built in these days), or anything that pulls power from a separate source than the computer itself. That seems to have resolved the problem. Do I need to be on the look out for any potential problems with the PC due to this?
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May 11, 2019 03:11
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Nope, the USB ports on your motherboard just have poor isolation which picks up power noise from the GPU/CPU working harder which happens the most during games. By plugging it in to a separately powered hub you have cleaned up the power delivery to the unit. It is possible a new bigger/better PSU would keep the power cleaner, but it is more likely the problem is somewhere in voltage regulation on the motherboard and a PSU isn't going to fix that. Though honestly a USB device with its own DAC should be immune to power noise like that, it must be incredibly cheaply engineered because all it would take is a few capacitors to filter out the noise which is something that does actually matter to audio devices for obvious reasons.
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May 11, 2019 13:05
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I ended up just trying a different USB port on my motherboard, which also seemed to resolve the issue. I wonder if there was just too much electrical interference around the port I was using.
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May 11, 2019 15:18
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would this impact 2.4ghz transceivers etc?
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May 11, 2019 15:24
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Statutory Ape posted:would this impact 2.4ghz transceivers etc? As an aside, 2.4 GHz transceivers are already severely impacted by USB 3.0 interference - that's why a short 2.0 extender cable often increases reception by quite a bit.
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May 11, 2019 19:57
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I got an old rear end Logitech speaker system hooked up to my computer. It's got a subwoofer unit that plugs into my computer and then 4 or 5 speakers that I only use 2 of attached to it. Anyway the sub unit also has a RCA input. I have a laptop that runs a monitor on my desk and a headphone to RCA cable going to the sub. This lets me get audio from both my computer and laptop at the same time. But it causes light buzzing. Usually it's not noticeable if I'm just browsing but when I play games on my main it's louder and more irritating. What is a proper setup for doing this? Run output from my desktop and the laptop to a receiver that outputs to speakers? Is there a step below that so I don't need a receiver?
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May 11, 2019 23:13
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phosdex posted:I got an old rear end Logitech speaker system hooked up to my computer. It's got a subwoofer unit that plugs into my computer and then 4 or 5 speakers that I only use 2 of attached to it. Anyway the sub unit also has a RCA input. I have a laptop that runs a monitor on my desk and a headphone to RCA cable going to the sub. This lets me get audio from both my computer and laptop at the same time. But it causes light buzzing. Usually it's not noticeable if I'm just browsing but when I play games on my main it's louder and more irritating. Hooking up two inputs is causing a ground loop. You'll want a ground loop isolator: https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=ground...nb_sb_ss_i_1_11
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May 12, 2019 00:06
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Rexxed posted:Hooking up two inputs is causing a ground loop. You'll want a ground loop isolator: Cool, thanks.
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May 12, 2019 01:42
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I want to set up a set of bluetooth headphones for my mother's TV, but the TV doesn't have built in bluetooth (it's an older, small model Sony Bravia). It has a regular audio out port (like a jack on a smartphone) and a USB port. What kind of device should I connect to make the audio pass through to the bluetooth headphones without lag and stuff? I'm guessing a regular bluetooth dongle straight into the USB port wouldn't work since the TV probably lacks drivers to do this? I found some bluetooth audio adaptors, like this one: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00IRCDT7Y...&language=nl_NL ... but these seem to be made to receive audio from a phone to then send to a wired speaker via the jacks on the back, or will they generally also work to receive audio through the jacks and transmit to a set of headphones? There's surprisingly little information about this that I could find, or I'm not looking in the right place.
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May 12, 2019 18:54
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