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Anachronist posted:Duly noted. Given our time constraints Exit 38 was nice since it’s 5 minutes off 90. Next time maybe we’ll leave a little earlier and hit Index instead. What do you think about Index vs Vantage? What difficulty are you looking for? Vantage is way more fun and varied for easy sport climbs (<5.10).
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Apr 22, 2019 19:53
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I’m looking for mid 5.10s and down, my girlfriend is more around 5.8, maybe 5.9. Sounds like Vantage might be the better choice? I imagine we’ll try Index sometime though. We drive to Seattle pretty regularly.
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Apr 22, 2019 20:07
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So I got a metolius contact hangboard and got it mounted at work which has me pleased as punch, but it feels so slippery. Even on the limited jug it has it doesn't feel like the limiting factor is my grip strength its the part where my hands slide off. Is there something I should be doing to increase the grippiness of it, like hit it with a little chalk or something?
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Apr 23, 2019 16:03
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Wrr posted:So I got a metolius contact hangboard and got it mounted at work which has me pleased as punch, but it feels so slippery. Even on the limited jug it has it doesn't feel like the limiting factor is my grip strength its the part where my hands slide off. Is there something I should be doing to increase the grippiness of it, like hit it with a little chalk or something? Unless I'm sorely mistaken, chalk will have the opposite of the desired effect: it will fill in the spaces between the "grit" and make it more smooth, not less.
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Apr 23, 2019 16:15
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A lot of climbers fail to understand the point of chalk for some reason. I've seen people in the gym chalk slippery holds before and it drives me nuts. Chalk only helps by drying your hands. Excessive chalk is a hindrance, because it fills voids in the holds and acts as a sort of dry lubricant. Basically, if your hands are sweaty, chalk them to dry them and then brush the excess chalk off them.
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Apr 23, 2019 16:19
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I see. I was thinking it might help with some sort of humidity / moisture on the hold or something. So then maybe I'll try chalking my hands just a touch and brushing the board.
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Apr 23, 2019 16:24
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armorer posted:A lot of climbers fail to understand the point of chalk for some reason. I've seen people in the gym chalk slippery holds before and it drives me nuts. People chalk up as some kind of cargo cult movement because they see other people using chalk, mostly, and nobody sees people brushing off slick holds.
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Apr 23, 2019 16:43
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Ravenfood posted:nobody sees people brushing off slick holds. As a newbie, I feel like I'm not "attuned" to climbing enough to know when a hold might need cleaning. I just chalk (  ) it up to, "It's doable, I'm just weak/not doing it correctly"
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Apr 23, 2019 16:55
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Sab669 posted:As a newbie, I feel like I'm not "attuned" to climbing enough to know when a hold might need cleaning. I just chalk ( It's not voodoo - if you're slipping off it and it looks like there's a bunch of chalk stuck in the texture... brush it! If you can't visibly see chalk coming off, it didn't need it. If you can see chalk coming off and when you blow on it you get a face full of chalk dust, it needed it 
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Apr 23, 2019 17:09
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armorer posted:A lot of climbers fail to understand the point of chalk for some reason. I've seen people in the gym chalk slippery holds before and it drives me nuts. I once chalked three foot holds in RRG. The route was seeping wet for the first 10' (so it was basically RRG...). Most people were just aiding up to the first bolt. I was able to get the lead, it was pretty hilarious. But yes, don't chalk holds, brush holds. When I climb I get covered in chalk from smacking the excess off. I look dumb usually.
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Apr 23, 2019 17:15
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spwrozek posted:I once chalked three foot holds in RRG. The route was seeping wet for the first 10' (so it was basically RRG...). Most people were just aiding up to the first bolt. I was able to get the lead, it was pretty hilarious. Okay, yes - seeping rock is a different beast, granted. You clearly know what I'm saying though. I generally chalk and them slap my leg or the wall (not on the hold) to shed the excess if I'm chalking while climbing. So I end up kinda covered in chalk as well sometimes.
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Apr 23, 2019 17:17
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Being covered in chalk is a good and sexy look.
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Apr 23, 2019 17:17
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^I know, just talking poo poo. Wrr posted:Being covered in chalk is a good and sexy look. Mmmmmmm thank you...
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Apr 23, 2019 17:18
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Tyrone Biggums is the objective.
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Apr 23, 2019 17:51
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I'm the guy who chalks up after each burn and claps, releasing an excessive amount of chalk into the air
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Apr 23, 2019 18:07
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Hot Diggity! posted:I'm the guy who chalks up after each burn and claps, releasing an excessive amount of chalk into the air Sup 'Bron.
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Apr 23, 2019 18:24
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I chalk up then blow off my hands while resting on jugs. Mostly because it looked cool when I watched an old guy do it.
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Apr 23, 2019 18:55
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LOL if you don't get dehydrated before climbing so your hands can't sweat.
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Apr 23, 2019 19:21
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Slimy Hog posted:LOL if you don't get dehydrated before climbing so your hands can't sweat. Maybe if you still live in the 80s. Real climbers run electricity through their hands for 20 minutes every other day to create perfect skin and reduce sweat coming out of their sweat glands.
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Apr 23, 2019 20:00
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Slimy Hog posted:LOL if you don't get dehydrated before climbing so your hands can't sweat. I roll around in chalk like a chinchilla, then eat handfuls of it.
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Apr 23, 2019 20:50
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I was demonstrating my hip hyper mobility to my climbing partner at the gym the other day, forgot my chalk bag was open, then promptly dumped a handful of chalk onto my own head. So, if you ever feel like a dork for just chalking your hands, remember what a dorky goon I am.
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Apr 24, 2019 00:17
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I suppose it varies from goon to goon, but how long would you guys recommend a new climber (and a not super active person in general) wait for 'rest days'? Like I said I went 4 times in 6 days last week (last time was Friday). My dominant arm is still mildly sore in this area;  But I'm afraid if I go again tonight after 2 problems I'll be cooked for another few days. I guess my wrist is also a tad sore, but that's probably just from being at a desk all day for work / poo poo ergonomics at my desk at home.
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Apr 24, 2019 00:39
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Sab669 posted:I suppose it varies from goon to goon, but how long would you guys recommend a new climber (and a not super active person in general) wait for 'rest days'? Like I said I went 4 times in 6 days last week (last time was Friday). Is the pain close to the elbow, localized to the location where the tendon connects? ie: Is it this? https://orthoinfo.aaos.org/en/diseases--conditions/tennis-elbow-lateral-epicondylitis/
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Apr 24, 2019 02:29
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Sab669 posted:I suppose it varies from goon to goon, but how long would you guys recommend a new climber (and a not super active person in general) wait for 'rest days'? Like I said I went 4 times in 6 days last week (last time was Friday). 2 hard sessions or 3 moderate sessions a week. 4 times in a week as a new climber is a sure way to destroy your body. And remember, training makes you weak. Resting makes you stronger.
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Apr 24, 2019 03:14
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Let's say I do have climber's elbow and I bought a flex bar and am doing the exercises that you guys were nice enough to recommended, how do I know when I'm ready to climb again? Should I be completely pain free in that area before I go? Should I do some pull ups or something at home so I don't burn the $25 day rate just to find out I'm still injured?
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Apr 24, 2019 04:47
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prom candy posted:Let's say I do have climber's elbow and I bought a flex bar and am doing the exercises that you guys were nice enough to recommended, how do I know when I'm ready to climb again? Should I be completely pain free in that area before I go? Should I do some pull ups or something at home so I don't burn the $25 day rate just to find out I'm still injured? How often do you feel pain in the area? Is it sharp, dull? Really you'll have to make the judgment call, but if its dull and manageable, without sharp pain, you can climb. If doing climbing movements brings significant pain or a sensation that it will get worse, don't.
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Apr 24, 2019 05:36
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Dull pain, couple times a day. Last week I went climbing and after like 4-5 attempts at bouldering it was back to really painful. Previous to that though I had played hockey a few times without it coming back in full force. I think maybe I need to do the exercises and give it a couple weeks.
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Apr 24, 2019 14:07
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My general rule is that if I can climb two grades below my max without pain, and if it doesn't hurt when I'm not climbing, then I'll climb. When I do that, if something hurts, I don't do it, and I basically just go for volume on easy climbs rather than doing anything hard.
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Apr 24, 2019 15:34
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any western carolina (i'm near charlotte) goons wanna climb in the next couple weeks? i'll take time off work.
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Apr 24, 2019 21:14
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I got into rock climbing the other week and I'm having a lot of fun with it. Unfortunately I had a little too much fun yesterday and my golfer's elbow flared up, leaving me in massive pain for roughly an hour after climbing. It feels better now, and currently I'm looking at buying a TheraBand FlexBar to use while I rest up and try again next weekend. I was wondering: which level of resistance should I buy? I never had golfer's elbow issues until I started climbing and it hasn't affected my range of motion, I'm just hoping to strengthen that area and not gently caress myself up.
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Apr 27, 2019 16:43
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Macnult posted:I got into rock climbing the other week and I'm having a lot of fun with it. Unfortunately I had a little too much fun yesterday and my golfer's elbow flared up, leaving me in massive pain for roughly an hour after climbing. It feels better now, and currently I'm looking at buying a TheraBand FlexBar to use while I rest up and try again next weekend. I was wondering: which level of resistance should I buy? I never had golfer's elbow issues until I started climbing and it hasn't affected my range of motion, I'm just hoping to strengthen that area and not gently caress myself up. Get the green for sure. Red is definitely too easy unless you're recovering from something serious.
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Apr 27, 2019 23:24
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I use the lightest theraband to warm up my fingers and rotator cuffs before climbing. Plenty resistance for me but i might just be weak...? You can always fold it double for extra resistance. Some easy climbing is sufficient to warm up my back and elbows. Sigmund Fraud fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Apr 28, 2019 |
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Apr 28, 2019 17:30
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Decided to order one of those bands since they seem to be so highly recommended. Took a week off and then climbed again this weekend - I think I did slightly worse on most of the problems than the week before, but oh well. Been watching the IFSC stuff on YouTube in the mean time; watching the Chongqing finals right now... This PetraKlingler's arms are fuckin HUGE compared to all the other women. Interesting to see her / lots of the climbers struggle just to start some of these problems. Makes me feel better about having the same issue with a lot of problems I'm working on 
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Apr 28, 2019 22:13
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anybody here ever get intense chronic biceps pain from climbing? the pain's localized to the center(?) of the bicep itself, on both arms, so according to dr internet it probably isn't tendonitis or a sprained tendon(which would supposedly be painful nearer the shoulder and/or elbow) i've had this for a few years now and sometimes the pain is really bad, climbing definitely sets it off
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May 1, 2019 18:25
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does anyone have any recommendations for bouldering shoes that are similar to miuras but are available in larger sizes? i’m a 46 which means 95% of shoes don’t fit
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May 1, 2019 22:13
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kalvanoo posted:anybody here ever get intense chronic biceps pain from climbing? the pain's localized to the center(?) of the bicep itself, on both arms, so according to dr internet it probably isn't tendonitis or a sprained tendon(which would supposedly be painful nearer the shoulder and/or elbow) do you train antagonistic muscles? i used to have the same type of pain, and it largely went away once i started doing dips/bench presses/tricep stuff twice a week, and it comes back if i start slacking on those.
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May 1, 2019 23:47
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Verviticus posted:does anyone have any recommendations for bouldering shoes that are similar to miuras but are available in larger sizes? i’m a 46 which means 95% of shoes don’t fit If you want to stay in la sportivas, have you tried skwamas and solutions? Alternatively, tighter shoes make you boulder harder!
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May 2, 2019 01:24
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cant get 46s in those either. 46 is already small 
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May 2, 2019 01:56
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Are you Shaq?
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May 2, 2019 02:10
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I think my buddy with huge feet is in some sort of scarpa. Asking him, let you know. Yeah he climbs on the force x. 46. They are not very aggressive though. He had a 16 Street shoe for comparison. If you are in Denver he says rock and resole carries lots of big shoes. spwrozek fucked around with this message at 03:44 on May 2, 2019 |
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May 2, 2019 02:50
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