|
Southern Heel posted:Correct, but if I end up tapping the wall with the car at least I'm not going to scuff the chrome up if it's against a big old cushion? I also personally wouldn't park a car like that by feel, but to each their own.
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2019 16:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 2, 2024 19:01 |
|
|
A quick and dirty thing I did because our garage ceiling is super high was put a strip of blue masking tape on the wall in the exact spot where it would line up with a reference point from my wife's seat in her car, like she pulls in until the tape visually lines up with the right side mirror while she's sitting normally. It works well and was easy but there's also about 6 inches of wiggle room if she's not perfectly in the right spot for it to match up. As far as the cushioning, I dunno - to me it seems likely that you're going to hit the cushion more than you'd hit a wall, doing very little damage, but still some damage, since it's going to protrude more than the wall. I'd just use avoidance tools like a tennis ball or tape strip or any of the other suggested things.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2019 17:39
|
|
|
shortspecialbus posted:A quick and dirty thing I did because our garage ceiling is super high was put a strip of blue masking tape on the wall in the exact spot where it would line up with a reference point from my wife's seat in her car, like she pulls in until the tape visually lines up with the right side mirror while she's sitting normally. This is what I do. Drew a line on the wall with a magic marker that I stop at when it lines up with my line of sight when looking 90 degrees to the left.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2019 18:56
|
|
|
My house came with a laser that was connected to the garage door opener, so it shines down whenever the door opens. Pretty cool and my realtor hadn't seen one before. I aimed it to my wife's dash and she parks same every time. I actually sneaky moved it back a foot or so because she could park more shallow.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2019 19:05
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:My house came with a laser that was connected to the garage door opener, so it shines down whenever the door opens. Pretty cool and my realtor hadn't seen one before. Searched "parking laser" on amazon to find these. Pretty cool.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2019 19:22
|
|
|
The Harbor Freight version melts your windshield and saws your car in half.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2019 19:27
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
Chunjee posted:Searched "parking laser" on amazon to find these. Pretty cool. I never looked it up since I already have one. It's somehow even more basic than the chamberlain one, and it's wired to the garage door opener. But yeah pretty much the same.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2019 19:57
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:The Harbor Freight version melts your windshield and saws your car in half. I have a hologram of my '06 Dodge Caravan projected into my car hole. I just line up everything to the micro-millimeter and BAM! Perfect ParkingTM
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2019 20:02
|
|
|
Has anyone here been to Radwood? It's coming to Vegas this weekend.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2019 20:49
|
|
|
Anyone have a recommendation for a rear seat protector? Trying to keep my dog from ruining the leather seats on my new car. I looked on Amazon but the product reviews seem to be super shady, even by Amazon standards
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2019 05:23
|
|
|
BangersInMyKnickers posted:I think they used the same 5-speed box in all the non-GTs. Happened to our 05 and everyone was saying it was happening back to the 02 model and + a few years as well. My fiancé managed to baby the clutch past 150k and was still using it completely burnt out to the point that it would slip will cruising at a consistent speed, extremely gentle on that car and it still happened. The old mechanic she was using was taking her for a ride and doing a full flush/change like every 15k which pissed me off when I found out, but probably helped in this case due to dumb luck. Ugh. Yeah, hers is an 05. And her clutch was so bad that she couldn't even get it up to highway speeds in less than a mile or so. Irony: the shop she took it to "couldn't reproduce the clutch problem". I had to talk to the tech myself and ask if he'd ever driven a car with a slipping clutch. "Yeah I driven plenty of slipping transmissions!".  I wasn't local yet, I had to walk him through HOW TO GET IT TO SLIP (get it up to 40ish, put it in 5th, floor it?)I like how the car drives (aside from being gutless as hell), but knowing the transmission is a ticking time bomb... she was wanting to hand it over to me when she buys a new car in the next few months. My Saturn is a pile of poo poo, but at least when it breaks, it's either because I overtightened a strut mount bolt  or something relatively predictable.Southern Heel posted:Correct, but if I end up tapping the wall with the car at least I'm not going to scuff the chrome up if it's against a big old cushion? I'd worry more about the wall.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2019 07:10
|
|
|
Am I overweighting the value of leather seats? I'm looking at 2007-09 Priuses to replace my 2008 that was totaled and had leather and I'm considering older and more expensive listings because they have leather. Especially with a 10-12 year old car, it seems like leather would hold up better over the next 3-5 years, and it wouldn't have accumulated sweat and odors in the same way.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2019 13:18
|
|
|
Josh Lyman posted:Am I overweighting the value of leather seats? I'm looking at 2007-09 Priuses to replace my 2008 that was totaled and had leather and I'm considering older and more expensive listings because they have leather. Especially with a 10-12 year old car, it seems like leather would hold up better over the next 3-5 years, and it wouldn't have accumulated sweat and odors in the same way. I much prefer cloth seats over leather. Leather gets uncomfortably cold in winter, uncomfortably hot in summer. I slide around on it until my butt has sweated enough to stick, which is kind of gross when you think about it. Cloth's main disadvantage is staining. Hitting it with a steam cleaner every couple of years generally takes care of that. Good cloth is more durable than leather, as well.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2019 15:12
|
|
|
Nohearum posted:Anyone have a recommendation for a rear seat protector? Trying to keep my dog from ruining the leather seats on my new car. I looked on Amazon but the product reviews seem to be super shady, even by Amazon standards I have this one I picked up locally a few years ago, no complaints and has kept my huge rear end dogs from tearing my rear seats just fine. https://www.amazon.com/Solvit-Waterproof-Bench-Seat-Cover/dp/B000GL4NPQ Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Apr 25, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2019 15:17
|
|
|
STR posted:Ugh. Yeah, hers is an 05. And her clutch was so bad that she couldn't even get it up to highway speeds in less than a mile or so. I think it came in around $2200 to have the whole transaxle assembly swapped with a used 6-speed. We're not really looking for a new car bill right now and I can't find anything mechanically wrong with it besides the suspension being at the end of its service life, was worth doing in our case even if it only gets us an extra year or two out of it. Considering how reliable its been overall it seemed like a thing worth throwing money at. Autoexec.bat posted:I have this one I picked up locally a few years ago, no complaints and has kept my huge rear end dogs from tearing my rear seats just fine. There are other ones like this that will also clip to the headrests of the seats in front to keep the dog from getting down in the footwell or scratching up the back of the front seats
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2019 17:10
|
|
|
Deteriorata posted:I much prefer cloth seats over leather. Leather gets uncomfortably cold in winter, uncomfortably hot in summer. I slide around on it until my butt has sweated enough to stick, which is kind of gross when you think about it. Whatever cloth material/composite Honda came up with in the 80's and 90's for interiors could survive reentry into earth's orbit. That 87 Civic we had was literally impossible to destroy. But then Mr. Rust paid a visit.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2019 19:47
|
|
|
Alright, stupid question time regarding the 2006 Ford Focus C-Max (1.6TDCi engine, so the Duratorq diesel) I bought recently. It's obviously not a new car but is in pretty good condition considering its age. This morning as I was heading to work the car had some issues: Rough idle, no response to the gas pedal at moments, and it eventually stalled and refused to stay running in neutral. I managed to get it running enough to pull into a nearby parking spot, and luckily I had a spare car available as my coworker parked his car at my house for his vacation and was OK with me using it if needed. Some casual Googling and directions from a coworker shows me it's the MAF that's causing the problems here, and when I disconnected it the idle was suddenly a lot better, no more stuttering in terms of RPM, and no more stalling. Now, I've already contacted the dealer who should be covering it under the warranty, but would it be safe to keep the MAF disconnected for a few days so I can at least drive until they can take a look at it? Worst case scenario I'm gonna rent a cheap car for a week as we've also got a vacation planned that's about 250km away from where I live now. Alternatively: How the heck do I get the MAF and air filter off so I can check and clean or replace it myself for this specific model? EDIT: Forgot to mention, we've had the car for a few weeks without any issues or any indication something might be up, no lights come on in the car itself either, it's got 172k on the clock. I'll have to check the maintenance history to see if the air filter's ever been replaced.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2019 20:44
|
|
|
Now that the weather is warmer, my 2007 Nissan Altima 3.5SL seems to be blowing warm air when the AC is turned on. I bought some refrigerant for hopefully an easy fix, but when I attached the gauge, it seemed to read within what was normal for the current outside temperature. I hooked up the extra refrigerant anyway, but the pressure dial jumps all the way to the right way past the max and just stays there. I'm hesitant to try it again as I'm afraid my arm will turn into an icy pink mist. It appears that the AC compressor isn't spinning, though I've read it could be low refrigerant causing the clutch to not engage? The RPM dial jumps a bit whenever I hit the AC button, and goes back down when I turn it off, but maybe that's just the engine preparing for the extra load of the compressor? I've checked and replaced the fuse under the hood marked 'AC', but still no dice. I'm going to check the compressor relay and other electrical connections, but I'm wondering about the weirdness with re-charging and if I should attempt it again, or does it mean the amount of refrigerant is fine?
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2019 20:45
|
|
|
fack you posted:Now that the weather is warmer, my 2007 Nissan Altima 3.5SL seems to be blowing warm air when the AC is turned on. I bought some refrigerant for hopefully an easy fix, but when I attached the gauge, it seemed to read within what was normal for the current outside temperature. I hooked up the extra refrigerant anyway, but the pressure dial jumps all the way to the right way past the max and just stays there. I'm hesitant to try it again as I'm afraid my arm will turn into an icy pink mist. Don't just jack refrigerant into it: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3852329&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1 e: Dammit, that thread fell into the archives. Time to make a new one. ee: It's back for 2019: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3888018 Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Apr 25, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2019 22:12
|
|
|
fack you posted:Now that the weather is warmer, my 2007 Nissan Altima 3.5SL seems to be blowing warm air when the AC is turned on. I bought some refrigerant for hopefully an easy fix, but when I attached the gauge, it seemed to read within what was normal for the current outside temperature. I hooked up the extra refrigerant anyway, but the pressure dial jumps all the way to the right way past the max and just stays there. I'm hesitant to try it again as I'm afraid my arm will turn into an icy pink mist. Does it act like it wants to cycle? edit: Meaning does the clutch on the compressor come on for a few seconds then stops?
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2019 22:13
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Don't just jack refrigerant into it: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3852329&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1 Oh nice, reading through that now. Colostomy Bag posted:Does it act like it wants to cycle? No, it doesn't spin at all.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2019 23:32
|
|
|
How do I solve an issue like all the cool Japanese wheels being 4 bolt when my hubs are 5 bolt? Previous model of the Supra was 4 bolt but spares for those are impossible to find basically even if they would work. Am I to forever drive around on lesser wheels?
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2019 09:55
|
|
|
Olympic Mathlete posted:How do I solve an issue like all the cool Japanese wheels being 4 bolt when my hubs are 5 bolt? Previous model of the Supra was 4 bolt but spares for those are impossible to find basically even if they would work. I don't know if they exist, but have you tried searching for 4 lug- 5 lug spacer/adapters? E: yup they do. https://wheeladaptersusa.com/collections/4-to-5-lug-wheel-adapters Don't know anything about or endorse this company, just a half second goggles pisano and this was the first site to come up.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2019 12:20
|
|
|
wesleywillis posted:I don't know if they exist, but have you tried searching for 4 lug- 5 lug spacer/adapters? I used similar on my E30 to convert from 4 lug to 5 lug and fit the 16" E38 BBS weaves, they end up pretty thick but it works. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Apr 27, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2019 01:32
|
|
|
Alright straight up whats the best power bleeder? My miata brakes feel weak as gently caress after i changed the lines, calipers, rotors and pads and i think i hosed up bleeding the brakes with a questionable motorcycle bleed wrench.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2019 04:30
|
|
|
Voltage posted:Alright straight up whats the best power bleeder? My miata brakes feel weak as gently caress after i changed the lines, calipers, rotors and pads and i think i hosed up bleeding the brakes with a questionable motorcycle bleed wrench. Something you can't afford as a home gamer, so buy a Motive (https://www.motiveproducts.com/). It works just as well if you aren't using it 4x a day.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2019 04:34
|
|
|
wesleywillis posted:I don't know if they exist, but have you tried searching for 4 lug- 5 lug spacer/adapters? Cheers but that's 4 to 5 bolt and that site is a clusterfuck to dig through. I did find some elsewhere though. http://www.ezaccessory.com/Wheel_Adapter_5_Lug_4_5_To_4_Lug_4_5_p/5450-4450z.htm Nice to know it's a thing, they're something to bear in mind when deciding on wheels.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2019 14:12
|
|
|
Voltage posted:Alright straight up whats the best power bleeder? My miata brakes feel weak as gently caress after i changed the lines, calipers, rotors and pads and i think i hosed up bleeding the brakes with a questionable motorcycle bleed wrench. Have u bedded the pads in yet
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2019 16:48
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:I used similar on my E30 to convert from 4 lug to 5 lug and fit the 16" E38 BBS weaves, they end up pretty thick but it works. Mad stance yo!! I got a new (used) sunroof for my Corolla because the frame on mine rusted the gently caress out. Also got a new weather seal for it. Its hard as gently caress to get on. Should I use a silicone spray for lubricant? Something else?
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2019 17:30
|
|
|
BangersInMyKnickers posted:The old mechanic she was using was taking her for a ride and doing a full flush/change like every 15k which pissed me off when I found out, but probably helped in this case due to dumb luck. Just a quick question, but oil change is every 10,000km/6000 miles or so, right? And you change the filter when you change the oil? Or do you mean changing transmission fluid/gearbox oil and power steering fluid and brake fluid as well?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2019 04:14
|
|
|
I'm looking to add front/rear cameras to my truck for reversing/parking kinda uses. This is separate from the dashcam and doesn't need to record. Does anyone have any suggestions for good cameras and a compatible screen that can accept the cameras and also something like a raspberry pi? Searching for these things are quite awkward because a lot of the results are dashcam related, and amazon just wants me to buy canned solutions that wont allow for an aux raspi setup.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2019 04:15
|
|
|
tuna posted:I'm looking to add front/rear cameras to my truck for reversing/parking kinda uses. This is separate from the dashcam and doesn't need to record. Does anyone have any suggestions for good cameras and a compatible screen that can accept the cameras and also something like a raspberry pi? Backup cameras? I'm just starting the same project on my truck
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2019 11:35
|
|
|
Back on the 2005 Escalade -- I got it back from the transmission guy a few weeks ago and it's shifting fine with a couple new solenoids. That's great. However, it's been randomly no-starting. It started right after I got it back, so I figured the shift cable needed to be adjusted, but then it worked for a couple weeks. Then it started doing it more frequently. Transmission selector shows the right gear on the dash, strong "click" from the solenoid when turning the key in park or neutral. But nothing else. It has fully refused to start since Saturday. I jumpered the negative battery terminal to the block to make sure there wasn't a ground problem. Battery is new and strong. At this point, with the solenoid giving a loud click, I've got a new starter on the way. In looking at it, I can see an "Ultima" tag on the starter, so someone's replaced it with a reman before (not mentioned to me, I bought it 3 years ago with 98k miles). I'm thinking it's just the starter that needs to be replaced... am I missing anything else?
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2019 12:45
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
My neighbor had some starting issues with his Cadillac this weekend. It seems to be the amp draining the battery, but my first thought was the security system engaging in some fashion. My understanding is that GM starter interrupt issues will result in symptoms similar to what you are experiencing. Any security lights flashing?quote:I see this a lot working on cars GM vehicles equipped with Passlock. The Hall effect or Passlock sensor inside the lock cylinder housing goes bad intermittently and the Body Control module forgets the code or signal from the sensor and the 10 minute relearn procedure needs to be done in order to get the vehicle started. We do it all of the time at the shop for our customers. If the Passlock sensor is good along with the rest of the components, leaving the key in the ON or RUN position will usually to the trick. In addition, this procedure will need to be done anytime the Body Control Module loses its memory. In my neighbor's case we tried jumping multiple times, no dice. A ton of clicking all over the dash and door panels though. Would not release the key. Disconnected the battery for 5 mins then reconnected and jumped again, started!
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2019 13:27
|
|
|
Chunjee posted:My neighbor had some starting issues with his Cadillac this weekend. It seems to be the amp draining the battery, but my first thought was the security system engaging in some fashion. My understanding is that GM starter interrupt issues will result in symptoms similar to what you are experiencing. Any security lights flashing? I don't think it's the case, from what I can tell... the starter only has 2 wires going to it (and the solenoid, they're one unit), so if the solenoid is clicking, I think that should be the only signal it gets to engage the starter...? Also, the passkey light on the dash goes out with the rest of the lights.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2019 14:31
|
|
|
I wouldn't rule out the battery even if it is young.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2019 14:36
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:I don't think it's the case, from what I can tell... the starter only has 2 wires going to it (and the solenoid, they're one unit), so if the solenoid is clicking, I think that should be the only signal it gets to engage the starter...? Also, the passkey light on the dash goes out with the rest of the lights. You can test your starter by jumping 12V directly to one of those lines. In addition if the line is corroded or not holding under load, I'd expect a click and no action.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2019 15:04
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:I wouldn't rule out the battery even if it is young. I think I've got a spare battery I can jumper to, I'll try that. Chunjee posted:You can test your starter by jumping 12V directly to one of those lines. In addition if the line is corroded or not holding under load, I'd expect a click and no action. I haven't looked at the wiring enough to know what goes where, the wires to the solenoid are inaccessible without removing the starter first. Another complication is that I have it pulled into the garage, with no way to move it... the driveway has a steep slope, so if I move it back, there's no way to get it back into the garage... so space is tight. Edit: Since it's a reman'd starter that's over 3 years old, should that be a flag? I've never had luck, or heard of luck, with reman'd electrical stuff. Edit2: Also on my troubleshooting list was swapping the starter relay. I did that with no change in operation. Edit3: I tried to jump it and tried to start it with a 50amp booster, no change, just a strong solenoid click. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Apr 29, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2019 15:07
|
|
|
Assistance pls. I done rekt my fuel line for my 1982 s10 while removing the carb. A replacement is like $140, I'm wondering how hard it is to make my own from a roll of fuel line. Highly mechanically inclined, just never done it before. Do I need any special tools installing the fittings? Additionally, wtf is this weird gasket thing that sits between the bottom of the carb and the top of the engine? Can't find it in the parts fiche. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2019 16:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 2, 2024 19:01 |
|
|
tuna posted:I'm looking to add front/rear cameras to my truck for reversing/parking kinda uses. This is separate from the dashcam and doesn't need to record. Does anyone have any suggestions for good cameras and a compatible screen that can accept the cameras and also something like a raspberry pi? I installed one of these a few weeks ago https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M5W3243 , the quality is pretty solid although im personally not a big fan of the license plate mount since it half blocks my tailgate handle. There are bullet style cameras that install inside your door/bumper/whatever which might be a better option. (https://www.amazon.com/RAAYOO-Universal-Installation-Guildlines-non-mirror/dp/B074P45P7G) A raspberry pi would be way overcomplicating things as amazon has hundreds of options for monitors with multiple inputs like this one https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Car-Rear-View-Monitor/dp/B01MU0KFKS Long Francesco fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Apr 29, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2019 21:43
|
|
