|
mashed_penguin posted:Nice I need to do that on my tj. How hard was doing the ball joint press stuff ? It was ez peezy except for the fact that I used knurled ball joints last time and they wallowed out the holes slightly - Just enough so that the new non-knurled spicer ball joints were a slip-fit. I dimpled the gently caress out of them in order to make sure they'd fit tighly in the holes. I'm hoping it holds up - they went in with plenty of resistance so I think I'll be okay  The hardest part about using the ball-joint press is figuring out which of the pieces in the kit you need to use. This is the press kit that I bought and have used a ton.
|
#
?
May 4, 2019 17:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 22:08 |
|
|
For future planning - is there any reason I shouldn't use the mega-short SYE on my TJ when I get around to doing that upgrade? It seems like every inch helps on the driveshaft angles, and I kinda like the fact that it gets rid of the speedometer gear and just replaces it with a sensor.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2019 18:55
|
|
|
I drove my '85 CJ-7 up to the Jemez Springs area yesterday and camped out overnight. Hills are not my friend in 4th or 5th gear, but otherwise it did great up to 7000 feet, where I pulled over and made camp. I was a bit tentative about starting since it was 6 a.m. and 40 degrees, but the bastard fired right up. I managed to break the speedo completely; the needle has always been jumpy, sometimes just swinging between 0 and 85 as I drive, and I think that behavior coupled with gravel washboard made the needle jump past one of the limiters... so now it sits on the wrong side of the 85 mph peg. Guess I'll see if I can find any repair info, otherwise I'll start shopping. I think I've decided that while mounting the CB to the back side of the center console keeps it out of thieves' sight, it's also pretty annoying to make any adjustments while driving. I think I'll put it in a more conventional location under the dash.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2019 19:40
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:For future planning - is there any reason I shouldn't use the mega-short SYE on my TJ when I get around to doing that upgrade? It seems like every inch helps on the driveshaft angles, and I kinda like the fact that it gets rid of the speedometer gear and just replaces it with a sensor. ABSOLUTELY! I got a regular length sye and Id spend the extra bit of cash of I were doing it over. Every extra bit of length on the rear driveshaft is good to have. Also, it would've saved me buying two different speedo gears through the various changes I've made.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2019 20:18
|
|
|
The only downside is that the only way to calibrate the speedo with it is to add something like a SpeedoDRD but that's not a big deal. But good to know - I just wasn't sure if there was some strength trade-off or anything like that. Sold the WJ to the first person to show up. Back down to a one-Jeep family 
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2019 20:56
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:It was ez peezy except for the fact that I used knurled ball joints last time and they wallowed out the holes slightly - Just enough so that the new non-knurled spicer ball joints were a slip-fit. I dimpled the gently caress out of them in order to make sure they'd fit tighly in the holes. I'm hoping it holds up - they went in with plenty of resistance so I think I'll be okay Awesome I'll have to get my act together on that job. I putt my new exhaust in today from the front flange back. Hard part was pulling the old one. Cut the bolts with my dremmel and sawzalled the pipe into three pieces. Out with the old  In with the new    Haven't driven it yet but hoping it won't be a clogged cat power sapping mess anymore  Next job though is breaking out the por15 and attacking the rust on the underside. This winter was brutal with the salt and I need to stop procrastinating and do it.
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2019 01:30
|
|
|
That's gonna come off if you go rock crawlin'  How's it sound? I'll bet it's awesome. My muffler is held on by a half of a bolt and the two hangers. I need to fix it but I don't want to drop the skid because then I'll have to rebuild the transfer case.
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2019 02:22
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:That's gonna come off if you go rock crawlin' Sounds pretty good. I'm going to see if I can get a lower profile tip for it. It sticks out more than I was expecting lol. Edit : drove it properly up some hills and on the highway and holy crap the old one was clogged badly. Feels like it did before the cat started making gravel noises. Should have delt with this ages ago. mashed fucked around with this message at 03:20 on May 5, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 5, 2019 02:30
|
|
|
Diesel JL spotted. Does that particular engine (V6 3.0 EcoDiesel) have a track record yet or is it brand-new? Uh, never mind - it's been used since 2014. What's the reputation? TotalLossBrain fucked around with this message at 05:53 on May 5, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 5, 2019 05:51
|
|
|
mashed_penguin posted:Nice I need to do that on my tj. How hard was doing the ball joint press stuff ? I replaced my upper/lower Dana30 joints last year and it wasn't bad at all. I used a beat-up rental press set from O'Reilly's. Just like Astonishing Wang said, the hardest part is figuring out which adapter pieces to use (but we might just both be dumb in the same way  ). I still kinda think I used the adapters incorrectly, but everything went together just fine and I've had no problems since. I did put the new balljoints in the freezer overnight beforehand. As a side note, it really helps to have a good 1/2" impact gun and the requisite sockets - it's weirdly freaky to creep up on the release point of the old joints with a socket wrench and the press set, whereas if you just blast on the little bastards with a big impact they pop out & you don't really care. I think I still have PTSD from using cheap HF MacPherson strut compressors in combination with hand tools on my front coils years ago - you haven't lived until you've got your hands in there with the things almost all the way down, and instantly one of the threaded rods bends, causing the whole assembly to snap offline into kind of a croissant/arced deathspring shape. also, saw this on a FB jeep group tonight: 
The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 02:24 on May 6, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 6, 2019 02:19
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:The hardest part about using the ball-joint press is figuring out which of the pieces in the kit you need to use. I've done balljoints several times now and it's fairly straight forward - although one time I bought my own new press kit to do it and it was a nightmare. It turns out that kit didn't have an angle to one of the tube pieces to match the angle of the balljoint, its only about 2 degrees or something, but it is literally impossible to install the new balljoints without that angle. Took us hours to figure it out because we're really stupid. I manually filed an angle into the tube and it went in instantly. It was not a good day. [edit] friend came over this weekend because he figured his alternator was making a loud squealing sound. We installed the new one he bought and the squealing was still there. Turns out it was just one of the idler pullies. Replaced that ($20) and all was good lol. I guess he has a spare alternator now. lmao. tuna fucked around with this message at 05:54 on May 6, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 6, 2019 05:44
|
|
|
The Royal Nonesuch posted:I replaced my upper/lower Dana30 joints last year and it wasn't bad at all. I used a beat-up rental press set from O'Reilly's. Just like Astonishing Wang said, the hardest part is figuring out which adapter pieces to use (but we might just both be dumb in the same way 30 fart-pounds or 40 nerton maters
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2019 15:00
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:30 fart-pounds or 40 nerton maters I think it was probably in this thread where someone gave a pinion nut torque spec as "until you fart twice".
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2019 20:53
|
|
|
Speaking of drivetrains: I've seen conflicting info on this, are there actually any variances between input shafts on TJ NP231s? Found a guy selling one locally on Craigslist with what looks like a mega short SYE already installed, for about the price of the SYE itself. Came out of a '97 automatic, not sure if 4cyl or 6cyl. If I have to swap input shafts between it and my NV3550, probably not worth it.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 16:56
|
|
|
I believe they're all the same but don't quote me. Buy it and ship it to me if you don't want it 😉
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 17:38
|
|
|
Yeah, Novak lists a bunch of different splines and input shaft lengths, but then random forum posts say all TJ cases are compatible.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 17:52
|
|
|
Comparing at least the '97-'99 and '02 Mopar parts guides, both only list the same two part numbers for input shafts - one for 2.5L manuals, one for everything else. Gonna take a chance at it.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 22:31
|
|
|
Similarly, I want to put a Teraflex 2LO kit in my XJ, but Teraflex only lists compatibility with TJs and LJs. Is there any reason it wouldn’t work in my ‘00 XJ?
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 23:42
|
|
|
It's just the shift lever, right? Seems like that part is likely identical between all 231s. Picked up the case tonight. Guy threw in a Novak cable shifter because it won't work on the Atlas case he put in (along with tons, coilovers, hydro steering, and a LS1... "built" is an understatement). I'll have to buy the fasteners that bolt it to the tub but I'm sure as hell not going to complain about that
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2019 05:21
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:Similarly, I want to put a Teraflex 2LO kit in my XJ, but Teraflex only lists compatibility with TJs and LJs. Is there any reason it wouldn’t work in my ‘00 XJ? None that I'm aware of.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2019 11:51
|
|
|
Comparing both the TJ and XJ parts diagrams for the 231, it seems like most parts are identical between them. The shift sector (4638845) and mode fork (4741237) are identical, though at least the '02 TJ diagram has the mode vs range forks labeled backwards. They do have different range forks oddly enough.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2019 17:13
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:It's just the shift lever, right? Seems like that part is likely identical between all 231s. I have the Novak on my TJ and it owns! Definitely worth it.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2019 20:07
|
|
|
Check length and spline count. I don't know TJ auto trans output shaft spline counts like I do XJ, but 6cyl manual will be 23 spline and 4c manual will be 21.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2019 00:01
|
|
|
Saw this today on a Facebook group - JL lined up against a JT. LMAO @ that wheelbase.   
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2019 04:47
|
|
|
I mean, 2 door vs 4 door truck, and short wheelbases aren’t always preferable, sooooo ...
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2019 04:51
|
|
|
Yeah, there wasn't any way the JT wasn't going to be longer than even a JLU, let alone a two door.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2019 04:59
|
|
|
I just really hoped for a 2D version 
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2019 05:03
|
|
|
I sort of crammed my dick in a vise over here. I dropped the Jeep off at the mechanic to repair a steering box, rear axle, and transmission leak. The steering box and transmission seem to be okay now, but I think something went wrong with the diff. The job was to replace the pinion seal in my 8.8, and I know it's sort of an exacting job. When I'm coasting in the Jeep now, off the gas, there's a heavy whirring sound that I think is coming from the rear. I assume the preload on the ring and pinion was hosed. Is there anything to be done without sourcing a new crush washer? Any way to make sure it's the diff? I really don't want to turbofuck my Detroit and new gear set.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2019 14:42
|
|
|
Your Detroit will be fine either way but you might be smoking your gearset if they hosed it up. Pinion bearing stuff is annoying and I normally just let them leak and top off regularly rather than mess with it. The JT was always gonna be long. I've got my hopes up for a 2dr extended cab version but if not I'll buy a 4dr. It's 18in longer wheelbase than a longbed MJ, but very similar to most other midsize trucks these days.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2019 01:26
|
|
|
I ended up bringing this home today and left the 'old' Sport S JKU as a trade-in. It drives rather nicely.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2019 02:40
|
|
|
TJ folk, is my gas gauge normalish? Every other vehicle I've owned, WJ included, will stay at the full mark for at least one gallon burned, if not two. After about 30 miles on a tank where I averaged just shy of 15, it was showing 3/4. The bottom half of the gauge, for what it's worth, seems to last much longer. I mean, I'm probably not going to drop the tank to fix this if it's not normal, but hey.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2019 02:51
|
|
|
Kastein do you think if we lean on it for a couple hundred lbs. without going too crazy it might get it tight enough to handle a couple hundred mile drive back to the shop that set up the gears? You crank it down hard enough to press on the crushed crush sleeve but not hard enough to compress it further, right? We should be able to get to the point where it feels like we went hard enough (180ish ft lbs?) and not too far. Edit: or would it be better to get a torque indicating gauge from AutoZone to measure the inch pounds to turn the pinion flange, and crank down based on that measurement? Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 03:43 on May 13, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 13, 2019 03:05
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:TJ folk, is my gas gauge normalish? Every other vehicle I've owned, WJ included, will stay at the full mark for at least one gallon burned, if not two. After about 30 miles on a tank where I averaged just shy of 15, it was showing 3/4. My tj the guage drops fast for the first quarter then is reasonably steady for the rest though the quarter from half to 1/4 always seems the slowest.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2019 03:11
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:Kastein do you think if we lean on it for a couple hundred lbs. without going too crazy it might get it tight enough to handle a couple hundred mile drive back to the shop that set up the gears? I might be off, but I don't think anyone is going to recommend anything except having the diff set back up ASAP. A pinion seal is really not that hard, maybe talk to your mechanic about it and get them to look at it again before you make assumptions about the noise?
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2019 12:35
|
|
|
You're probably right that I should take it back to him in case it's something else, but I'm wary. I know what the right move is, I just don't believe at this point that it's possible to achieve here in Baja unless I'm doing it myself. I also don't think I can find a crush sleeve here If I wanted to reset the gears. Or a dial indicator for that matter. I think my options are trying to get it sort of close to right and driving it 250 miles to the shop that CAN fix it, or pulling out the whole goddamn axle, borrowing a vehicle, and driving 250 miles with the axle in the back. I've also considered pulling the axle from my friends grand Cherokee and putting it under my Jeep for the drive. Unfortunately I've been using that grand Cherokee and the feeling from the rear end does NOT instill confidence. Going back to the same mechanic seems more dangerous to me right now than attempting anything myself. I told the guy when I dropped the Jeep off that ONE of the six skid plate bolts was stripped. When I got back to the Jeep all six bolts had been blasted out and he through-bolted all six spots with bolts coming down from inside the frame rails. He fished them in with wires and then nutted them from below. Now I get to remedy that, probably with nutserts or maybe with welding in some nuts. He also put the shifter housing on backwards so that It wouldn't shift into reverse . Seems like he did okay re-sealing the steering box and transmission though. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 14:41 on May 13, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 13, 2019 14:22
|
|
|
My friend and I are going to attempt a gear swap on our Jeeps this coming weekend. Going for 4.10 to 5.13 gears. We've watched plenty of videos, read the instructions multiple times, have all the necessary tools and think we understand the process. Anyone else done their own gears? Any gotchas we should be looking out for. Doing this on JKURs.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2019 15:02
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:
I don't... really have a problem with that repair? I dislike captured nuts on skid plates.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2019 17:34
|
|
|
You're okay with hoping to god that you don't have to figure out a way to get a wrench INSIDE the frame rail to drop the skid plate? Im hoping that an impact will break them loose but then what? I still have to hold the bolt somehow while unscrewing the nut, and the bolt is inside the frame. Times six. I can see doing it this way for the ONE nut that was hosed up, but he spent extra time to gently caress all six in the same way. Now I get to fix that too. I'm not taking it back to the same guy again. I'm counting my blessings that the differential is all he hosed up. Only a $500 repair bill coming up probably. I'm frustrated, that's all. Edit: looking at the skid plate he clearly did some welding at each of the six points. If he welded the bolts so they're permanently affixed then I guess I'm okay with it. I'll just cut off the extra threads. 
Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 17:46 on May 13, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 13, 2019 17:41
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:TJ folk, is my gas gauge normalish? Every other vehicle I've owned, WJ included, will stay at the full mark for at least one gallon burned, if not two. After about 30 miles on a tank where I averaged just shy of 15, it was showing 3/4. I wonder if this is due to the fact that TJs have 19 gallon tanks but the vent tube prevents you from filling past 15 gallons. https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/jeep-tj-gas-tank-mod-confirmed-1234621/#/topics/1234621
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2019 17:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 22:08 |
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:You're okay with hoping to god that you don't have to figure out a way to get a wrench INSIDE the frame rail to drop the skid plate? Im hoping that an impact will break them loose but then what? I still have to hold the bolt somehow while unscrewing the nut, and the bolt is inside the frame. Times six. Well ideally he put a locknut under the bolt head, but you can always work with having the nut on the bottom side. Vice grips on the bolt if it's long enough, or go ahead and flatten two sides of the bolt tip for a wrench like some factory bolts have. Worst case you can use a nut splitter but I really don't think it would come to that. If a captured nut is spinning inside a frame rail it's a much worse day. I get your frustration. I think that shotgunning a repair at the diff has a better chance of making it worse.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2019 17:56
|
|