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Dr. Fishopolis posted:Unless you really, really need something that absolutely tiny, a NUC is a better idea, especially used. There are nearly no moving parts and nothing much can go wrong with them so they're a very solid ebay pickup. Dr. Fishopolis posted:after all the poo poo you've been through in the various IT threads, you deserve a decent god drat computer of your own, friend.
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May 16, 2019 18:16
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GreenBuckanneer posted:So here's what I've come up with from the previous post: That's a lot of spindles to get not so much storage. Are you willing to shuck external drives? Best Buy had 10TB externals for $160 yesterday, and they're only up to $180 today.
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May 16, 2019 22:03
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Twerk from Home posted:That's a lot of spindles to get not so much storage. Are you willing to shuck external drives? Best Buy had 10TB externals for $160 yesterday, and they're only up to $180 today. I'm not above shucking, I've done it before. I might drop down to four of them for that price, though. Is it easy to add more drives to a raid and do they have to be the same model?
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May 16, 2019 22:13
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What do you need all that storage for? Perhaps a NAS would be better than a ton of slow hard drives in your case.
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May 17, 2019 02:23
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so does this thread refer to it as "shuckin' drives" for the racist rhyme or...?
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May 17, 2019 02:26
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Lutha Mahtin posted:so does this thread refer to it as "shuckin' drives" for the racist rhyme or...? what? no? they come in shells like nuts, corn, oysters, or whatever, and to get the usable drive out you gotta shuck it out of the case, usually destructively if you're not extremely careful i dont think anyone knows why they put $250 drives into $150 external enclosures, maybe an overstock thing + committments to have qts on hand at option of the buyers, and if they don't get bought, they go into external shells? I'd imagine something like that.
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May 17, 2019 02:46
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Lutha Mahtin posted:so does this thread refer to it as "shuckin' drives" for the racist rhyme or...? I have no idea what you are talking about re: racist rhymes The only definition I've ever heard for the term has been in regards to removing a the outer covering from corn or the shell from a peanut/oyster, whatever. I can't really find any mention of a reference to a racist rhyme in Merriam Webster or any of the top results on google, and I'm kinda not really wanting to go deeper to find out. orange juche fucked around with this message at 02:49 on May 17, 2019 |
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May 17, 2019 02:46
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i just know "shuck and jive" and was like whoa what p.s. don't listen to me
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May 17, 2019 02:52
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Lutha Mahtin posted:i just know "shuck and jive" and was like whoa what don't worry, this is the internet, if you're wrong you wont have to wait for long to find out
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May 17, 2019 02:56
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Are there any recommendations for full tower cases? I really don't NEED one but I have a lot of space now, and my regular case is really cramped. I'd like to add a few more fans and a better heatsink since I've been getting really hot temperatures.
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May 17, 2019 15:05
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GutBomb posted:What do you need all that storage for? Perhaps a NAS would be better than a ton of slow hard drives in your case. Video games get really huge these days 
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May 17, 2019 16:05
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Chikimiki posted:Video games get really huge these days
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May 17, 2019 16:32
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Looking at Power Supplies...is there much of a difference between the EVGA G2 and G3?
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May 17, 2019 16:36
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I'm not above shucking, I've done it before. I might drop down to four of them for that price, though. Is it easy to add more drives to a raid and do they have to be the same model? Depends on the setup. If you're doing something RAID-esque like drivepool+snapraid, storage spaces in windows or unRaid then yeah it's easy. Hardware RAID not so much.
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May 17, 2019 19:42
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Hi, looking for a solid, cheapish build for my brother and his son to do light video editing, general use, and possibly a bit of gaming. Does this look a decent setup? Cooler Master MasterBox MB600L Gunmetal Black ATX MidTower Gaming Case $102.35 Gigabyte GeForce GTX1050Ti Graphics Card 4GB GDDR5, GPU Upto 1442 MHz, Single Fan $234.99 AMD Ryzen 5 2600 6 Core,12 Threads up to 3.9 GHz Max Boost, Socket AM4, 19MB total Cache $275.00 Kingston HyperX Fury 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2666MHz CL15 - Black (Intel XMP, AMD Ryzen) HX426C15FBK2/8 $102.35 Gigabyte GA-B450M-DS3H mATX Motherboard, AMD B450 Chipset, For AMD Ryzen AM4,4X DDR4-3200, M.2 $148.99 Samsung 860 EVO MZ-76E250BW 250GB , Samsung V-NAND, SATA III 6GB/s, R/W(Max) 550MB/s/520MB/s, 2.5" $98.99 inc GST Seagate BarraCuda 3TB SATA3 3.5 inch 256MB Cache 6Gb/s 5400rpm Internal HDD ( 2 years warranty ) $148.35 inc GST Cooler Master MWE BRONZE 450W 80Plus Bronze PSU MEPS Approved 86/88/85 , Low Noise, 3 Year warranty $74.99 inc GST Microsoft Windows Home 10 64bit OEM Eng Intl 1PK DSP OEI DVD Total $1465 System builder here
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May 18, 2019 00:06
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sebmojo posted:Hi, looking for a solid, cheapish build for my brother and his son to do light video editing, general use, and possibly a bit of gaming. Does this look a decent setup? orange juche fucked around with this message at 00:24 on May 18, 2019 |
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May 18, 2019 00:12
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I'm not familiar with buying parts in NZ but you might want to look at a different SSD. The 860 Evo is over a year old and a lot of companies are making good drives now that are cheaper than Samsung. That motherboard also supports NVMe M.2 drives, which will be faster than a SATA drive.
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May 18, 2019 00:15
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Lutha Mahtin posted:I'm not familiar with buying parts in NZ but you might want to look at a different SSD. The 860 Evo is over a year old and a lot of companies are making good drives now that are cheaper than Samsung. That motherboard also supports NVMe M.2 drives, which will be faster than a SATA drive. Good to know I was going on old knowledge from the last time I built a pc. And yeah I'm trying to convince him to build but he's nervous about it, haha. Is the Transcend MTS820 240GB M.2 SATA a better SSD choice? I swapped out the power supply for an EVGA 550W Gold with a 5 year warranty. sebmojo fucked around with this message at 00:28 on May 18, 2019 |
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May 18, 2019 00:21
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sebmojo posted:Good to know I was going on old knowledge from the last time I built a pc. And yeah I'm trying to convince him to build but he's nervous about it, haha. It's still a SATA drive in an M.2 form factor, you won't be taking up a drive bay or whatever, but you will lose some SATA ports, and the drive will be no faster than the maximum speed for a SATA drive. E: I tried to bang something together in the same price range if you were willing to build, only using 4 and 5 star parts off of pcpartpicker that are available in NZ, and preferring brands that have goon consensus as not being poo poo. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($268.50 @ 1stWave Technologies) Motherboard: MSI - B450M PRO-VDH Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($139.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) Memory: Kingston - FURY 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($98.00 @ Mighty Ape) Storage: Crucial - MX500 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($128.99 @ PB Technologies) Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($104.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB STRIX Video Card ($263.34 @ PB Technologies) Case: Corsair - 100R ATX Mid Tower Case ($85.00 @ Mighty Ape) Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Gold 450 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($149.95 @ Computer Lounge) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($175.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) Total: $1411.78 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-18 11:45 NZST+1200 orange juche fucked around with this message at 00:46 on May 18, 2019 |
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May 18, 2019 00:26
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orange juche posted:It's still a SATA drive in an M.2 form factor, you won't be taking up a drive bay or whatever, but you will lose some SATA ports, and the drive will be no faster than the maximum speed for a SATA drive. Right. I think Crucial used to be bad, but are they ok these days? This one for e.g.: Crucial P1 500GB NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 up to 1,900 MB/s Read, 950 MB/s Write, 5 years Warranty ^^^ thanks! sebmojo fucked around with this message at 00:48 on May 18, 2019 |
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May 18, 2019 00:33
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sebmojo posted:Right. I think Crucial used to be bad, but are they ok these days? This one for e.g.: Crucial P1 500GB NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 up to 1,900 MB/s Read, 950 MB/s Write, 5 years Warranty That build I made won't save any money really because it's really hard to find PC parts that are available for a decent price in middle earth.
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May 18, 2019 00:52
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orange juche posted:That build I made won't save any money really because it's really hard to find PC parts that are available for a decent price in middle earth.  Yeah, I think I might just suggest the prebuilt, I like building computers but I think my bro will find it stressful (even though he can literally build a house from scratch, it's weird)
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May 18, 2019 00:52
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sebmojo posted:
It will however likely be more reliable/live longer, almost entirely down to the quality of the power supply, as the prebuilt one comes with a rather questionable one, as they're only willing to extend a 3 year warranty on it. That and motherboards are usually where system builders of all stripes cheap out on parts.
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May 18, 2019 00:58
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orange juche posted:It will however likely be more reliable/live longer, almost entirely down to the quality of the power supply, as the prebuilt one comes with a rather questionable one, as they're only willing to extend a 3 year warranty on it. That and motherboards are usually where system builders of all stripes cheap out on parts. It's prebuilt in the sense that they build it for you, but the parts are selectable - I swapped out the power supply for a gold rated EVGA 550W.
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May 18, 2019 01:27
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Not in a place to look up NZ GPU prices, but 1050tis are not very good.
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May 18, 2019 02:10
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GutBomb posted:What do you need all that storage for? Perhaps a NAS would be better than a ton of slow hard drives in your case. Media storage as a plex server. I don't want an actual NAS because it needs to be able to do other roles and not suck rear end at transcoding. I'd also want to use it as a general family file server so we can back up our computers. GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 02:25 on May 18, 2019 |
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May 18, 2019 02:16
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ItBreathes posted:Not in a place to look up NZ GPU prices, but 1050tis are not very good. They are not good but actual good GPUs are eyewateringly expensive. a 1060ti or equivalent is nearly double the price.
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May 18, 2019 02:23
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orange juche posted:They are not good but actual good GPUs are eyewateringly expensive. a 1060ti or equivalent is nearly double the price. But a 4GB RX 570 is actually cheaper ($215 for a ~50% performance boost over a 1050 Ti)! The MSi Armor's cooling isn't that great, but for that price it's a steal compared to a 1050 Ti. 580s start at $360, but I'd probably stick with the 570. E: The 4GB 570 will have maybe 5-10% less performance than the 8GB 480 in this Babeltech benchmark. If you know some of the more intensive games they might want to play, this should give you a sense of the performance they'd get on high/ultra settings. E: If you don't already have a Windows 10 key, you can save some money by getting a Windows 7 Pro key from SAMart for $10 US and using that to activate Windows 10 Pro. If you have any old Windows 7/8 keys lying around, those should work too! sebmojo posted:Right. I think Crucial used to be bad, but are they ok these days? This one for e.g.: Crucial P1 500GB NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 up to 1,900 MB/s Read, 950 MB/s Write, 5 years Warranty The Crucial MX500 is a great SSD. The P1 is a new (to consumers) QLC drive, which focuses on budget over endurance. The Intel 660p was the first SSD released in this class Despite requiring a NVMe interface and an M.2 slot, it's actual performance is right around mx500-level for most applications. Because of their potentially lower endurance and because they're new enough that we just don't know how they'll turn out, it's tough to recommend QLC for primary system drives right now - I'd stick with an 860 EVO or MX500, whichever's cheaper. Stickman fucked around with this message at 04:44 on May 18, 2019 |
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May 18, 2019 04:29
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Stickman posted:But a 4GB RX 570 is actually cheaper ($215 for a ~50% performance boost over a 1050 Ti)! The MSi Armor's cooling isn't that great, but for that price it's a steal compared to a 1050 Ti. 580s start at $360, but I'd probably stick with the 570. That's awesome info, thanks! We've agreed that I will buy the computer since I owe him some money, so I might assemble it and save the cash. For the video card I was going on the 1050ti being only a little weaker than a 970 (which I have and is still very competent) but if I can get that much of a boost from going amd I might as well. It's not primarily a gaming machine but free power is free power. E: yeah this comparison is fairly compelling sebmojo fucked around with this message at 05:15 on May 18, 2019 |
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May 18, 2019 05:11
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Careful about "shucking" those 10TB drives. WD has taken to rigging some of their externals with drives that have pins that need to be shorted to be used as standalones. Details if you end up with a "White Label" drive: https://hardforum.com/threads/wd-easystore-10tb-160-8tb-130.1981579/#post-1044194933 BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 06:07 on May 18, 2019 |
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May 18, 2019 06:04
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Hawgh posted:I think up to 150$-ish. I'd rather not underspend here, since the thing should stick around for a few years. If that H700 is anything like my H500, then you'll get decent cooling just as long as you're smart about fan placement. If you crave maximum airflow but think the Meshify C is for plebs, then I'd go for that Eclipse P600S someone upthread suggested.
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May 18, 2019 06:25
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sebmojo posted:Hi, looking for a solid, cheapish build for my brother and his son to do light video editing, general use, and possibly a bit of gaming. Does this look a decent setup? This can be a major spot of savings, a recycled Win 7 Pro OEM serial from eBay for £5 should still work fine.
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May 18, 2019 10:26
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Media storage as a plex server. I don't want an actual NAS because it needs to be able to do other roles and not suck rear end at transcoding. You can still use the NAS as storage for your media and files and have your PC do the transcoding. Having 24 terabytes spread across 6 slow spinning platter drives puts a lot of load on your power supply, adds heat, makes a lot of noise, requires a huge case, and is a lot more failure prone than a dedicated device meant for storage on that kind of scale. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 14:59 on May 18, 2019 |
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May 18, 2019 14:56
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Careful about "shucking" those 10TB drives. WD has taken to rigging some of their externals with drives that have pins that need to be shorted to be used as standalones. That's an inaccurate and misleading statement which makes it sound like WD is intentionally doing something negative to consumers. The SATA power spec originally defined pin 3 as a 3.3v power input to the drive, and power supply manufacturers built with that in mind. The use of that power/voltage never really took off, and a later revision of the SATA spec redefined that pin to match the SAS spec, defining it as an external power disable toggle. If voltage is applied to pin 3, the drive stops drawing power on all other pins. This is known, expected, and standards compliant. The issue is that a significant percentage of the power supplies out there today do provide that 3.3v on pin 3, which causes these drives to not work without either physically disabling that pin or using an adapter (molex has no 3.3v line at all, so crimped molex->SATA connectors work very well for this). In short, Western Digital is following the spec to the letter. Some of their older/smaller drives are still using boards which have the old pin 3 behavior.
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May 18, 2019 16:22
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Dad dropped coffee in his computer and let the magic smoke out. Before I go and replace every part, is there a way I might be able to test what parts shorted and which are still good to go? Right now absolutely nothing happens when you hit the power button, which means either the PSU is dead or the mobo. I know the paperclip trick for the PSU, which will tell me if that's fine or not, but I"m curious about the other parts. Hard drives are probably fine considering where they're mounted and where the coffee went, but the GPU seems the absolute most likely to be toast given it's location. The RAM and CPU should be fine as well, but if I got a new mobo I'm not sure the CPU would fit as it's probably 3-4 years old and I don't remember what I installed in the first place.
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May 18, 2019 17:26
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So I've got parts arriving next week to build, and I'm faced with the decision of what to do with my (soon-to-be) old machine when I'm done with it. I'm currently operating under the notion that none of the individual parts carry any worth in terms of sale, and truthfully, neither does the PC as a whole. Everything in it is 8 years old except the video card which is 4 years old. What do you guys think? 3.2GHz AMD Phenom2 x4 955 Deneb GA-870A-UD3 Socket AM3 motherboard 8GB DDR3 Memory ASUS GeForce GTX 750 Ti 256GB SATA SSD 2x 700GB WD hard drives BD-ROM DVD-RW Corsair 550W PSU Corsair ATX mid tower case (Carbide? Obsidian?) What to do?
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May 18, 2019 21:09
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G-Prime posted:That's an inaccurate and misleading statement which makes it sound like WD is intentionally doing something negative to consumers. Uh, if you watched the video instead of trying to  me, if you get a White Label drive in an enclosure, it will not be detected in a motherboard's BIOS until you physically block (not short as I originally said) a pin on the power connector, or do some simple tinkering with a molex adapter. The tape method is honestly simpler, most likely.WD *is* doing something negative to consumers because they'd rather said consumers pay about double for a loose OEM drive, it's just a nuisance that's rather easily remedied. All that aside, who knows how solid the tape method is over time, so running a multi-drive NAS (presumably in RAID 5 in the above case) where your array is almost entirely dependent on *tape* holding up lest you lose a parity or data drive strikes me as a bit dicey. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 21:20 on May 18, 2019 |
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May 18, 2019 21:17
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wintermuteCF posted:So I've got parts arriving next week to build, and I'm faced with the decision of what to do with my (soon-to-be) old machine when I'm done with it. I'm currently operating under the notion that none of the individual parts carry any worth in terms of sale, and truthfully, neither does the PC as a whole. Everything in it is 8 years old except the video card which is 4 years old. What do you guys think? Replace the power supply, re-goop the heatsink on the CPU, and buy some slightly more beefy hard drives and turn it into an always on PLEX media server. You can squeeze 2x 1080p streams out of CPU transcoding alone, or the GPU can bump that up to A Lot Of Streams (10-15+) orange juche fucked around with this message at 21:28 on May 18, 2019 |
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May 18, 2019 21:25
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Uh, if you watched the video instead of trying to I just bent the pin up with an x-acto knife. Much easier than buying special tape or futzing with molex or modifying the SATA plug, and if I can just bend it back if I ever need it in the future (which I'm 99.9% sure I won't). If you're running a multi-drive NAS you lose nothing by just removing the power disable pin. Since the hard reset feature is actually used in external enclosures it's a bit  to assume it's only for anti-shucking, especially since the fix is so easy that anyone who's knowledgeable enough to shuck can pull it off.E: That said, it definitely needs to be mentioned whenever we recommend shucking because white-label drives have pretty much totally replace red-label in Easystore. Stickman fucked around with this message at 21:31 on May 18, 2019 |
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May 18, 2019 21:28
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